Recent Posts

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91
Outside Links & Suggested Reading / Re: Miniature nuts & bolts & threaded rod
« Last post by Dan Rowe on July 23, 2021, 12:44:05 AM »
Paul, thanks for the heads up on the links. I will check the list and update it soon.

Scale Hardware is in the US and has what you are looking for:
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/bolts

Cheers Dan
92
Outside Links & Suggested Reading / Re: Miniature nuts & bolts & threaded rod
« Last post by paul gough on July 23, 2021, 12:35:02 AM »
I have tried the links and also manually typed in the addresses for the European sellers but get nowhere, just can't find the server message. I need a supplier of metric hex headed screws in the range of 1mm-2mm. Can anyone help. Especially useful is a supplier who is English conversant.
93
Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Johnmcc69 on July 22, 2021, 11:09:51 PM »
 :ThumbsUp:
 Real nice work Kim!
 Quietly watching & enjoying the journey!

  :popcorn:
 John
94
Chatterbox / Re: PILAFBS
« Last post by Admiral_dk on July 22, 2021, 11:06:57 PM »
While the cloth can't be used in all situations - I really like your suggestion Marv - thank you.

Per
95
From Plans / Re: Greene Automatic Cutoff Steam Engine
« Last post by Kim on July 22, 2021, 10:23:02 PM »
Very pretty work, kvom!  :ThumbsUp:

What was the reasoning for the first powder coating before the milling step?  You still had to coat it again, so you would still have to mask everything off, right?  Just curious.

Thanks kvom,
Kim
96
Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Kim on July 22, 2021, 10:16:17 PM »
To complete the steam chest cover casings I need to round over all the top edges.  I considered just filing them round but Iím just not that good with a file.  And these parts will be nice and shiny, up-front and center to catch everyone's eye, and I want them to look really good.  So I chose to use a 3/32Ē round-over bit to round off the edges believing that would produce a much nicer, more uniform look.

I picked this one up on Amazon for not too much.  Itís a wood router bit but I couldnít find any 3/32Ē round-over bits specifically for metal that werenít stupid-expensive.  So I went with this one and it performed admirably in this situation.

First I rounded over all the short corners, like so:


Then I rounded over all the long edges.  It appears easy, but there was a lot of setup time for each unique edge.  You have to get the depth and side cut set just right so you donít get a stairstep on the side of the round-over.


But eventually, I got it all completed, then buffed it up on a 3M abrasive wheel:


And hereís the cylinders up to this point.  Iíll eventually make little brass nuts to fit on top and hold the casings in place.  But for now, theyíll just sit there looking pretty! :)


Thanks for looking in!
Kim
97
Your Own Design / Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Last post by cnr6400 on July 22, 2021, 09:37:10 PM »
You could stamp it "PROTO" similar to the alternate well known tool brand to Scrap All tools. After all, it IS a proto, being the first one......  :Lol:   :cheers:
98
Your Own Design / Re: T head engine by Brian
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on July 22, 2021, 08:54:50 PM »
The welding fixture is completely designed and sent to my customer, who has to go to his customer for "design review". After that has happened I will complete it and make detail drawings.---Now--Back to my own stuff. I finished the welding fixture design about noon today, and spent the rest of the day machining valve cages. In a perfect world, they would be a press fit into the head. In the real world, you can't press them too hard because they are made of brass. So, they are coated with #638 Loctite and lightly pressed into place with my shop vice. After they set up for 24 hours or more I will drill the intake and exhaust port thru the cylinder head and the valve cages at the same time. I have not used my special valve guide cutting tool yet to prepare the seats to mate with the valves. That is just about the only thing left to do to the valve cages. I will make the valves later today or perhaps tomorrow. I did stop by my metal suppliers today and picked up a foot of 1 1/2" diameter "stress-proof steel to machine a one piece crankshaft from.
99
Your Own Design / Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Last post by ddmckee54 on July 22, 2021, 08:36:48 PM »
Just so long as they don't take the Snap-Off as literal instructions.  It's bad enough having them tighten the screws in those locations to 1/4 turn before it breaks, let alone trying to extract a busted screw from there.  Might just have a wildcat strike on your hands if that happens.
100
From Plans / Re: Greene Automatic Cutoff Steam Engine
« Last post by kvom on July 22, 2021, 08:30:23 PM »
Remake of the exhaust valve brackets proceeded over several days.  The first ones were made of cast iron from 1.875" round bar, but I discovered I didn't have enough left over.  So I used some 2" hex brass rod cut into 2.5" pieces.  A 5" diameter hole is drilled into the center on the lathe to a depth of 1.7" with a 1/2" carbide endmill held in the tailstock.  I checked depth with a depth micrometer as drilling proceeded.  The OD was turned to 2" diameter for a length of 1.85".



Profile rouging and spot drilling on the CNC mill was next, and the holes for the bearing cap screws were drilled.



The bearing cap screw holes are tapped 2-56.



The first powder coat was done next, after which the 4 mounting holes were drilled.




The remainder of the stock was milled away, and the brackets were checked for fit on the engine block.



After finish milling the bracket shafts, the were powder coated again, after which the holes for the valve stem and oil were drilled.



I then made new bearings as the shaft arms are slightly wider than before.  A test assembly shows the connecting actuator rod mates very wekk.



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