Model Engine Maker
The Showcase => Engines => Topic started by: cheepo45 on August 02, 2017, 05:39:17 PM
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I have finally completed my latest engine project. This is a Jan Ridders "Debbie" 2 stroke (Excellent plans, by the way!)
I learned a lot about metric conversions and tank soldering. This was an interesting build. It took me almost 3 years to complete this (things have been very busy at work and home)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8_3ZuELlbo[youtube1]
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That's a beauty Scott, and what a nice runner it is too!!! Being a 2 stroke, does it tend to heat up faster?
Bill
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Nicely done! A lot of similar elements in the glass cylinder Jan Ridders that I am building.
I also started it 3 years ago, I expect it to be finished by year end.
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Well done, it's a nice slow running engine for a 2 stroke
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
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Beautiful job and I love the muffler and stack.
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Nice engine Scott. Are you going to show it at Rough & Tumble in the next few weeks?
Phil
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I will be at the Rough and Tumble show on the 18th and 19th with this engine and more.
Thanks, everyone for your compliments-it's always a good day when an engine finally fires up and runs!
And, yes it does get hot pretty fast. I'm trying to limit the run times, but it sounds so good........
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Very nice, and agree the sound is pretty neat. Now you just need to wrap a belt on that pulley, and tool around on an old cruiser bike... :)
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I will be at the Rough and Tumble show on the 18th and 19th with this engine and more.
Drat. I'll be out of town. Something about the loss of daylight.
Nice engine Scott! :ThumbsUp:
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Sounds healthy Scott, Congrats on a runner!
Nice work. :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Super nice build ! :ThumbsUp:
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is there room between the tank and the cylinder to put a fan, that may alter the time it takes to get hot, with the extra work it might get hotter sooner.
Ian S C
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Nice!
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Hi Scott, congratulations for this smooth runner.
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Thanks, everyone for your kind words.
I will give you an update on this engine. It has been a bit of a struggle to keep it running reliably. I had to make 4 pistons before I got a tight enough fit to keep good compression. I thought I could machine them to a less than .0005 clearance to the cylinder. I have been a machinist for a long time and I am used to tight tolerances, however my 1943 South Bend apparently wasn't up to the task. I had 3 that sealed pretty well, but they wore rapidly due to very slight tapering of the piston.
Eventually I read the instructions (!) and made a piston .001 oversize and lapped it in to the cylinder with ultra fine diamond lapping compound.
It was so tight at first that it would run for a couple of minutes and seize up. After running it for a while it has loosened up just enough to run well and reliably. I do run my engines all day long at the shows and it has performed well.
I also had to do a lot of experimentation with the fuel mixture. I found that straight Coleman (lantern) fuel would cause it to squeak and slow down due to lack of lubrication. I started adding some 2 stroke oil 1 drop at a time until I got the right ratio to keep it running well. I also added a little bit of WD-40 to keep it from sludging up from the oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SkmM1ZrvNg
I wanted to pass this information on to anyone else who is having trouble getting their IC engines to run well. It does take some time and patience to work through these problems, but the satisfaction of a good running miniature IC engine is worth it!
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Congratulations on a very fine runner :praise2:
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Good job nice running engine. Is it running on a vapor carb I'm not that familiar with that engine. It runs and looks good!! NICE JOB!
:praise2:
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Looks and sounds like you've got it sorted, excellent :praise2: :praise2: Thank you for posting your tips :ThumbsUp:
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Looks and sounds great! Nice job.
Do you know exactly what type of steel you used for your flywheel? The plans just call for steel, but I'd like to use something I can get a decent finish on. Yours looks pretty good.
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The flywheel was made from "mystery steel"
It machined like 4130, although I think 1018 (mild steel) would work.
I used a small radius (.008) tool for the finish cuts, then polished it with 320 and 600 grit sandpaper.
Thanks for your interest.
Scott
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vK77rkgdBg
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Thank You for posting the video. That is running nicely and sounds great.
Congratulations on a successful project.
ShopShoe
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Hi Scott,
I met you and saw this engine at Cabin Fever. You made a really nice looking and running engine.
I’m also working on this design. I’m curious about how you mounted the magnet for the sensor since I have the same ignition system. Did you just make the ignition cam part from the plans using all the same dimensions and then press fit the magnet on the high point of the cam OD?
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I have been through several designs for the ignition cam. I made the first one from brass as indicated in the plans, but decided not to use it because I was going with the hall sensor.
The second one was made from plastic (Delrin, I think), and was on the engine for quite a while. You can see where the magnet is mounted. I glued it in with super glue. I also removed the screws attaching it to the flywheel and added a setscrew so the timing could be adjusted without moving the flywheel around.
The final design is a governor mechanism that I designed to keep the rpm's from getting too high ( detailed in another post).
You can also see the Delrin stand that I made for the Hall sensor.
I'm glad to see others building this engine. I haven't seen another at any of the shows I attend.
This one was a bit difficult to get to run properly, but I eventually fixed it.
The biggest issue was compression - make sure your piston is an extremely close fit to the cylinder.
Happy building and Happy Holidays!
Scott