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1
Your Own Design / Re: The Le Rhone 9C
« Last post by steamer on Today at 02:36:05 AM »
My awe in your work is only paralleled by that of your tailor......      He is surly a skilled maker or trousers!!! 8)

Keep it coming Craig....I'm loving this!

 :popcorn: :DrinkPint:

Dave
2
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale
« Last post by steamer on Today at 02:28:59 AM »
GO MIKE GO!!!!!!


Its getting there my friend... watching and learning.....

Dave
3
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale
« Last post by RReid on Today at 01:26:54 AM »
Quote
Now let's get back to making chips. 
By all means. You make chips, and I'll switch from popcorn to chips and salsa!
4
From Plans / Re: Upshur Horizontal Farm Engine - Mike's Version
« Last post by RReid on Today at 01:23:16 AM »
Looks great, Mike. I have no doubt at all that that crank will hold together! :ThumbsUp:
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Your Own Design / Re: The Le Rhone 9C
« Last post by RReid on Today at 01:18:45 AM »
I'm really enjoying following along, Craig. Not only is your machining work beautiful, but your posts are full of good tips and ideas. :ThumbsUp:
6
 Mike, did you try setting up the gear train on a "sacrificial plate" to work out the gear centerlines? & machining the bores "theoretically" where they should be?

 I would have to think that even mass produced gears would have some "level" of accuracy & could be easily changed out.(?) In full scale...
 What kind of accuracy is required for your model? I understand the timing requirements, but chain drive cam timing has to have a lot more "slop" & proved itself in production scenarios (not comparing to model making..).

 Not criticizing your design, I'm just trying to keep up following along.
 John
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Your Own Design / Re: 1/4 scale Porsche 917 180 degree V12 Build
« Last post by Johnmcc69 on Today at 12:39:06 AM »
 :ThumbsUp:
 :popcorn:

 John
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Shows / Re: NAMES 2022
« Last post by jeff l on Today at 12:09:45 AM »
I hope that they continue to have the show it's my favorite .
9
From Plans / Re: Upshur Horizontal Farm Engine - Mike's Version
« Last post by mikehinz on Today at 12:03:51 AM »
This post will describe how I made the crankshaft for the engine.  I'm hoping this technique will be adequate, but I'll not know that until I try to run the engine. I'm hoping for the best!

I changed the dimensions of the crankshaft to add more length to the right side of the crankshaft as I'll be adding a disk with a magnet for timing and a starter hub to that side of the engine.  Also on the drawing you can see that I'm adding a 1/8" milled keyway and will be broaching the flywheels and using 1/8" keys for torque handling.  This is just a piece of drill rod, not sure if its O-1 or W-1 but it's cut to length and ready for further operations.   



I showed making the bearing blocks earlier, but I wanted to make sure that they were aligned.   I installed the qty 4 bearings in the blocks using a just a small drop of Loctite 603 so they stayed in place.  The bearings are flanged, sealed 5/16" x 1/2" x 5/32" Trade Number R1810-2Z.  I tightened all the frame plates down and slid the rod thru and it fit well and rotated freely!  You can also see that I drilled a center hole in each end of the crankshaft for possible use later.



Next I cut and trimmed to length a piece of 5/16" drill rod for the throw.  Nothing terribly exciting here.



Next I sawed off a couple of pieces of 1/4" flat stock and glued them together, just to make them easy to mill and to make sure the holes were accurately aligned.  I didn't take any pix of the operations on these pieces, but it was just milling to dimension and then locating and drilling then reaming the 2 holes through the parts. 



Here's the milling operation to put the keyways on each end of the crankshaft.  That's a 1/8" 2 flute end mill, running at something like 2500 rpm and I'm using my Unist MQL system to keep the work lubricated and the chips out of the slot.  I think I made 3 passes each about .020 deep until I got to .062".



All the pieces laid on the print, deburred and ready for assembly.



To assemble, I cleaned the parts with acetone and applied Loctite 638 to each joint and slid the pieces together, maintaining the spacing at the throw with a couple of gage blocks.  I assembled it on the top of my small, cheap granite plate to keep everything as well aligned as possible.



I drilled in 4 locations with a 1/16" bit in preparation for pinning the crank joints.  This just involved finding the edges and using the DRO for positioning.



Then I drove 4 small brad nails through each of the holes applying a liberal amount of Loctite 603 (the thin retaining compound) to each hole before I drove the nails in place.  I went through and selected the brad nails to be a very light interference fit in each hole.  Each of the brads went into place fairly easily with just a couple of taps from a small ball peen hammer.



The next day I clipped off the excess length of the protruding brad nails and ground the remaining bits flat on my belt sander.  The back to the mill to remove the section of the crankshaft to make it into an actual crankshaft.



And finally the finished crankshaft laid on the print.  The brads used to pin the crankshaft are barely noticeable. 

First view.



Second view.



And that completes the crankshaft!  Hopefully it will hold together when the engine runs.  I'm hopeful, but who knows??

Enjoy!

Mike

10
Your Own Design / Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Last post by Don1966 on September 27, 2021, 11:21:22 PM »
Well there was a flat surface there on the top so the solder should of flowed good…..as fir the brass solder would wick very nicely. What I like about sweat soldering is less solder excursion!



Don
Does silver solder flow better on a brass surface? Or is it because of the curve?
Chris I find it flows very good on brass then other metals. Same with copper.

Don
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