Author Topic: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock  (Read 191549 times)

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1065 on: June 29, 2026, 06:12:52 pm »
Nice progress Kim, it is really going to be quite a show piece after all the finish work is complete.

Dave

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1066 on: June 30, 2026, 02:01:15 am »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: The bell sounds great Kim, and the strike mechanism works well. If there's any Canadian or UK Navy people listening, they won't mind the double strike... :Lol:

That extra hole you mentioned - wasn't that for holding a special calibration tool for frizzening the thromulation linkage?  :naughty:  :Lol:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline bent

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1067 on: June 30, 2026, 03:30:21 am »
I'm pretty sure the extra hole accommodates adjustment for biennial thermo-regulation.  You did buy the thermo-regulation kit, Kim?

Seriously, that dinger is dang nice.   :popcorn: :DrinkPint:

Offline Kim

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1068 on: June 30, 2026, 05:57:32 pm »
Thanks Dave, Jeff, and Bent!  :cheers:

Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1069 on: July 07, 2026, 10:34:08 pm »
For the winding key, you need a square socket to fit over the square winding peg. Wilding says to drill a hole, then use a square file to take out the corners and make it square.  This seemed very hard to me.  Especially trying to square up the hole 1/2" down.

So, I chose to make the square socket this way.  I sliced off one edge of a 1/2" 303 round bar with a slitting saw.


Then I completely removed that slice off the bar and cut a 3/16” channel in the end.


And silver soldered the slice of bar back onto the rod to form the deep square hole.  At first, I tried using those titanium strips to clamp the two pieces together for soldering.  But that was a bad method as the two pieces would slip apart as things got hot. So I got smart for my second try and used some stainless steel wire, twisted tight, to hold them together.  That worked MUCH better.


Here’s what it looks like after some time in the pickle bath.  The top part of this looks flat, but that's just an optical illusion caused by the bad angle of the photo.  The top is actually rounded; it's just a little shorter than the rest of the bar due to the saw kerf.


I put the bar in the lathe and skimmed the surface off the rod till it was round again.  Then made the shape I wanted for the winding key.  I made a little mark with the grooving tool to indicate where I want to cut the bar, which I did using the band saw.  Note that I just put the center in the square hole.  This worked just fine.  (It’s a live center).




After cutting it off, then cleaning up the end, I cut a 3/32” slot in the other end of the rod.


I wanted to make the key all out of stainless steel. I don’t have any 303 sheet, so I sliced off a piece of 3.25” round bar and faced it to the correct width, just like I did for the gears.


Here’s the pattern I’m going to use for the top of the key.  I put spray glue on the back of the pattern and glued it onto the 3/32” thick disk.


To help keep the rounded sections looking round, I chose to drill them.  I marked the centers with an optical magnifying center punch. (I have really used that thing a lot on this build!)  Then I drilled them out.  I also made some smaller holes in those center cut-outs.


Then I cut the shape using the scroll saw.  However, my attempt to do this on the stainless steel was thwarted.  That’s tough stuff to cut!  So I opted to switch to aluminum plate.   I didn’t have any 3/32” plate either, so this was actually made from a slice of 3” round aluminum.  But I can tell you, it was a LOT easier to work with than the stainless was.


After cutting it out, I used the die filer to bring it to the lines on my pattern.  Then removed the pattern.

Here are the two parts of the winding key:


And here it is, put together.  It really isn’t firmly attached yet.  I won’t do the final attachment till after I’ve buffed up all the pieces.


I had hoped to have the key be all stainless steel. I thought it would look more cool.  But that stuff was just nearly impossible to cut on the scroll saw.  I'd considered trying to figure out how to mill the shape, but that just seemed like a LOT of work.  So aluminum it is! :)

I think it will look pretty good when it gets polished up.
Kim

Online crueby

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1070 on: July 07, 2026, 10:50:31 pm »
Wonderful looking key! 

Making the square hole like that is how, I think, that Kozo showed to make the square holes in the universal joint centers on the New Shay, to let them adjust to length as the wheel trucks rotate in a corner. Great minds think alike!

For the 303 'sheet' - I wish that was available, closest is 303 flat bar but thats only available in certain thicknesses. I hope the aluminum you used will hold up to the torque, does your clock need a lot of force on the key? It varies so much design to design.

You must be getting close to final parts?
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
« Last Edit: July 07, 2026, 11:58:52 pm by crueby »

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1071 on: July 07, 2026, 10:57:28 pm »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: The key looks great Kim!
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1072 on: July 07, 2026, 11:17:24 pm »
Nicely done!

Offline bent

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1073 on: July 08, 2026, 01:59:45 am »
I watched what you were doing for the square socket, and thought hmm, that's going to look weird.  And it did...until you turned the part round again and it looked really sharp!  Nice job. 

I know I would probably have tried making the part with a through-bore and using the mill as a shaper with a piece of HSS to cut the corners square...and it would have come out un-square.  Similarly with trying to file a hole square, and not have it taper along the length.  I'd probably have given up and ended up buying the right sized square socket from the McMaster catalog, and machining a fancy socket driver.  Your method (or Koso's method?) works great.

 :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:

Online crueby

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1074 on: July 08, 2026, 03:27:58 am »
Another alternative that I used a couple times on larger clock keys (for future reference, since what you did worked out great) is to drill small holes centered on each corner of the hole, then drill a larger hole in the center that touches all four of those holes. That leaves an odd shaped hole (sort of like a four leaf clover) but one that does grip a square shaft well.

Offline Kim

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1075 on: July 08, 2026, 04:22:30 am »
Thanks, Chris, Jeff, Dave, and Bent!  :cheers:

Another alternative that I used a couple times on larger clock keys (for future reference, since what you did worked out great) is to drill small holes centered on each corner of the hole, then drill a larger hole in the center that touches all four of those holes. That leaves an odd shaped hole (sort of like a four leaf clover) but one that does grip a square shaft well.
That's a good idea too.  I've always wanted to try this method for getting a square socket hole, and this was my perfect chance!  It worked out pretty well.  The thing I'd do differently is to make the bar shorter before I soldered it.  It took a lot of heat to get that whole thing up to temp.

Kim

Offline Roger B

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1076 on: July 09, 2026, 10:43:39 am »
The striking sounds good  :praise2:  Does the clock just make a single strike on the hour?

Square holes are always fun  ::) Your technique worked well  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :)
Best regards

Roger

Offline Kim

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1077 on: July 09, 2026, 05:36:31 pm »
Thanks, Roger!  :cheers:

Does the clock just make a single strike on the hour?
Yup, just a single strike on the hour.  :D

Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1078 on: July 09, 2026, 05:49:25 pm »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Strikes, OK, picket lines and burning trash barrels, not so much....oh wait... :Lol:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline kvom

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Re: Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock
« Reply #1079 on: July 09, 2026, 08:14:45 pm »
A square broach would work as well, but I do like your ingenuity.

 

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