Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Kits/Castings => Topic started by: simplyloco on July 01, 2020, 05:28:56 PM
-
Hi folks. I've been absent for a while since I finished all those engines. I've just bought an unfinished Stuart Major that will keep me busy after I've finished my current locomotive, and I see that there is an excellent thread by Chipmaster to follow!
(https://i.imgur.com/Va1PQWE.jpg)
I've been distracted by this which will be finished shortly...
(https://i.imgur.com/79tiAuY.jpg)
I look forward to posting on here again.
John
-
Is this a second Major Beam after that one you beat me to in 2017 :stickpoke:
And how's the Britannia coming on ::)
Jo
-
No, it isn't, as it is is my first Major beam, and the Britannia is just how I want it thank you. Its condition is my business, not yours, and if you want to criticise or score points may I suggest you do it on the MECH forum?
John
-
Loco in the photo (don't think it is a Brit) looks good and does not look like it will need much more work before you get onto the beam at least to my non loco eyes.
Looks like someone had all the fun of machining the castings and has left you with the fiddly bits at least you won't have the problem of fitting the flywheel onto a lathe. What's the previous workmanship like?
-
Hi Jason. Yes, the 'major' work has been done, and I quite like doing the fiddly bits! What small bits that have been done are not done well, so there's a winter's work for me!
The loco is a Stirling 8 foot Single, circa 1870.
John
-
That locomotive looks fantastic. I've a set of major beam castings still aging away....nice to see one where things are getting done!
-
I've done an initial inspection today, just to give me an idea of that which I have bought. Even though the main casting work looks reasonable, there is much to rectify or replace. In summary, if I offered it to my two Shi-Tzus for breakfast they would relish it!
A few examples;
Entablature is two mm too fat against the main column. It ill have to be machined properly to size.
(https://i.imgur.com/8GgGdb8.jpg)
I would be ashamed of these parallel motion links!
(https://i.imgur.com/eBrUEoD.jpg)
As I would these!
(https://i.imgur.com/5UBudIt.jpg)
This piston rod gland is well oversized and would not grip the packing if it tried!
(https://i.imgur.com/q4xMqrq.jpg)
Here's the porting. BTW the apertures are huge!
(https://i.imgur.com/VbN2Bmi.jpg)
Here's the cylinder now that I have marked it out. I hope that he was going to machine the ports to size...
(https://i.imgur.com/EjKggjo.jpg)
I'll put it all away and finish the Stirling.
Thanks for looking in.
John
-
The loco looks amazing.
The Stuart Major will be quite some project - enjoy!
-
Back onto the Stuart Major as the Stirling Single is now 'resting' on the sideboard in the conservatory! I want to get the major components finished before I attack the detail, so I made a start on the cylinder porting. I haven't used the FB2 mill attachment for yonks, so it was nice to feel a 'real' mill at work rather than my Proxxon BF40. I used a 7/32 3 flute cutter, and just split the scribed lines by eye. The ball end cutter eased the flow in the bottom of the ports. Measuring up afterwards I'm only a a couple of tenths of a millimetre out so that is fine. I'm in two minds as to whether I should 'square up' the port ends. This is a plodding engine, and as I'm getting lazy in my old age I might just leave things as they are!
More tomorrow.
John
(https://i.imgur.com/arSTJba.jpg)
-
Mating the base plate to the cylinder casting.
I've got the seasonal activities out of the way so time to crack on! I was very unhappy with the plate/cylinder mating faces, so unhappy that I was seriously thinking of moving the whole thing on! However, I gave myself a shake and told myself "You are a precision engineer! Fix it!" so here are a few pics.
The problem: wrong base screw fixing pcd puts the cylinder 3mm out of position. The only solution was to machine the base plate boss to suit.
(https://i.imgur.com/eSZtgaP.jpg)
I knew that I was pushing my luck with this little boring head...
(https://i.imgur.com/9te8XKA.jpg)
I removed the tailstock and got stuck in. Lowest revs and a gentle feel on the quill sufficed.
(https://i.imgur.com/yOhdgcH.jpg)
Gently does it until the tool touched the base plate surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/LsUAKFj.jpg)
I call this a result! I'll get rid of the chatter marks with a round file. V. Happy to move on.
(https://i.imgur.com/n15hpqa.jpg)
-
Hi John,
it was fortunate the cylinder mounting pad on the bedplate was sufficient to move the cylinder along, looks like an effective recovery.
Andy
-
Yes, I was quite lucky there! I found this archived ad from Station Road Steam. I love the black theme and I rather like the simplified drop links and I might just adopt them!
John
https://www.stationroadsteam.com/stuart-major-beam-engine-stock-code-5274/
-
There's no Valve Chest in the box! :Mad:
A new CI casting from Stuart Turner is £50 plus postage, which I am not prepared to pay, so I found a bit of flat MS and started work this afternoon.
First job: slit it to size.
(https://i.imgur.com/h7XQdVb.jpg)
Chain drill and chisel it out the old fashioned way. I'm getting used to the new DRO now: that's a 5.8 mm drill being shifted 6.00 mm each time. No dramatic incursions into adjacent holes!
(https://i.imgur.com/3B17YDa.jpg)
Hacked out with a 10mm 4 flute end mill.
(https://i.imgur.com/HzDAXOi.jpg)
Corners finished off with a 6mm end mill.
(https://i.imgur.com/tqcgD9F.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll make the gland boss and silver solder it in.
(https://i.imgur.com/ncHtgJ8.jpg)
-
In the end you will be very satisfied with the replacement you made :ThumbsUp:
But that might not completely remove the annoyance of not getting what you paid for to begin with ....
Best wishes
Per
-
It's OK Per, I bought it from a deceased estate at very little money. It's just a bit of fun!
-
Nice work on the valve chest. At least you didnt find it missing after paying for a brand new kit though!
Your stirling single looks brilliant too
-
Nice work on the valve chest. At least you didnt find it missing after paying for a brand new kit though!
Your stirling single looks brilliant too
Agreed, a new set of castings is £1250.00!
Thanks for the kind words.
John
-
More Horror Stories!
Well, I've got a half decent valve chest with a screwed in gland boss that I can remove to drill the pcd holes. However, the cylinder cap edge is not circumferential to the cylinder, so if I want 'perfection' then I'm going to have to mount the cylinder in the rotary table and do the necessary on the mill: carefully... :censored:
In addition, whoever made the cap forgot that the gland has to have a tapered seat, so I will make a suitable insert. Luckily there is just enough of a lip at the bottom to hold the new seat in place. I will also either counterbore the stud holes or turn the domed upstand back a little to accommodate the nuts!
All good fun!
(https://i.imgur.com/b5RM0AD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dS5y5Jp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vHsp79Y.jpg)
-
Cylinder Mating Faces Sorted
I took the chuck off the rotary table and on mounting the cylinder I found I had plenty of room to fit a decent end mill. Clocked up the line using the pin and eyeball method, brought the job to the cutter, locked the beds and wanged it round by hand taking great care not to climb mill into the protruding bit.
Worked a treat and I'm happy with it. Not quite perfection but it is good enough!
John
(https://i.imgur.com/xiwu43v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kTtOXlx.jpg)
There's no Slide Valve casting either...
I found a lump of brass which on which I took some hacksaw exercise!
(https://i.imgur.com/U6WzY44.jpg)
I'll use a ball head cutter to shape the internals: a simple steam way should do fine. Here's a piece I practiced on, I hope this approach will be sufficient as the thing will get tested once on steam and 'electrified' after that! I'll set the DRO dimensions tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/Sb0s0eL.jpg)
Whilst my new vice was clocked up I took the opportunity to run the long series end mill along the back edge. Setting the vice up will be so much easier in future.
(https://i.imgur.com/exSnCPq.jpg)
-
Hi All.
I was looking in the Station Road Steam Archive for relevant material, and I found this modern take on our engine. I quite like it as parts of it are refreshingly different! What do you guys think as it's a Marmite/Peanut Butter question!
https://www.stationroadsteam.com/stuart-major-beam-engine-stock-code-5274/
John
(https://i.imgur.com/wlrDJU5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YjAAR5p.jpg)
-
I remember when this engine turned up for sale at SRS a while ago. Personally, as in the case of my own engine, I favour making the links in the "proper" manner, as Andy has also done, as they have so much more interest and visual appeal in their traditional detailed construction, and are a prominent part of a beam engine. The simplified versions do have a bit of a "cop out" look,and the socket screws are deeply anachronistic, but the choice is with the builder....! ( And the bits could always be removed later..! ) Dave
-
Hi Dave, and you are quite right about the anachronisms! I'll stick with the drawing. I also have loads of green gloss 2 pack paint left over from the Stirling Single... 8)
Slide Valve
I know that it can't be seen but it feels good to hew a solid block into a pleasing shape! I'm catching you up already Alan Andy! :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/3MMLjM8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uj5FlhL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lEMGbEj.jpg)
Lathe work next week: piston rods etc.... :whoohoo:
-
Is 'Alan' me?
Andy
-
Is 'Alan' me?
Andy
My apologies. Its you!😊
-
I lied about making the Piston Rods...
I really was going to make some small stuff next, but this large, lumpy, horribly painted non concentric column winked at me and said "Do me next!". I'm glad I listened as it is starting to look quite nice turned to the correct dimensions, as with the original 1968 H A Taylor build.
The casting is well oversize, and I can't imagine why the previous builder would want to leave it as it was. I made an alloy plug for the top end. I don't have a taper turning attachment, so I used the compound slide to good effect. I did the bottom radius with 14" and 8" files and emery cloth as I have no form tools that size. I'll do the other end tomorrow and bring out the Solvol Autosol! :)
John
(https://i.imgur.com/tpjFjb9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/24abJEo.jpg)
-
I am going to paint it!
I know that there are a few Majors out there with a polished column, but the real ones didn't have one, so I'll paint it. If I can achieve a similar paint finish to my Stirling then I will be very happy! I have loads of 2K Gloss Green left, and some POSCA lining wouldn't go amiss either... :LittleDevil:
This blasted cast iron dust gets in everywhere, and I mean EVERYWHERE!
John
(http://i.imgur.com/iiIFLiC.jpg) (https://imgur.com/iiIFLiC)
(https://i.imgur.com/NtYJvNe.jpg)
-
Your column is very shiny.
-
Looks much better!
-
I had rather fancied leaving the column bright, albeit not correct to the prototype, but the casting, wh. was from the original Stuart Turner concern, had areas of minor blowholes, such as i can see just above the base of your column casting: - and an overall surface porosity that would not clean up to uniform polished metal, so painting it is for it. I think that H A Taylor may have hewn his column from stainless... Dave
-
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I would certainly paint it - it's more accurate and what not, but I'm hugely impressed by the quality of finish achieved. Very inspiring for us mediocre builders.
-
I've changed my mind!
This afternoon's job was to finish the column. I was going to paint it, but the casting quality is excellent, and looking at the examples that people seem to admire most it looks like I'm polishing it and painting the contrasting bits 2k Satin Black.
The column top was oversize by 2.5mm on one side, causing the entablature to extend beyond its support strut alignment position. As I said it's a right dog's breakfast...
Successive filing, some emery cloth and finally some Solvol Autosol. On reflection - pun intended- it could be stainless steel!
(https://i.imgur.com/FGv2orf.jpg)
Supporting the column end with a 8mm drill bit to get it level. The EMCO V10P table isn't the biggest but I can usually get away with it!
(https://i.imgur.com/HskM0gw.jpg)
I now have to trim the entablature to size, both in thickness and width, but at least it is in the right place now. However, the supplied strut is too short so I need to make a better one! I have to do something with the cylinder cap as well!
(https://i.imgur.com/ncCUTz7.jpg)
-
Beautiful finish on that column
-
Cylinder Cap and Gland
This item was in a pretty sorry state: no attempt had been made to profile the neck, and the gland seats were missing in both bits! The cylinder rim needed reprofiling: you can see the problem!
(http://i.imgur.com/f3OVfrS.jpg) (https://imgur.com/f3OVfrS)
Getting in there to do the neck was a bit tricky, but my recently discovered profile tool made it a lot easier, moving the tool post around to accommodate the cuts. I had to grind some relief on the LHS of the tool, and nearly went too far as it is s**t metal...
(https://i.imgur.com/lFGtqHO.jpg)
This what it now looks like. There are a couple of tiny inclusion marks but some people need little things to pick at! :stickpoke:
Very happy so far. :Love:
(https://i.imgur.com/mtoS4AV.jpg)
On the beast, showing off the reprofiled cylinder rim.
(https://i.imgur.com/T90avOW.jpg)
-
Entablature is much worse than I thought!
Over width, over height, too thick on one side - beam gap is 25 thou undersize- and very uneven casting lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/vd2H0mH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3zxlHeT.jpg)
Clamped directly to the table, machined evenly both sides.
(https://i.imgur.com/2m4vNsI.jpg)
Clamped to the table for the height adjustment on both sides. My vice jaws wouldn't open enough!
(https://i.imgur.com/DnT8reh.jpg)
Leaving the machine settings as they are and moved the clamps. No lumps!
(https://i.imgur.com/IOCdsY7.jpg)
Much better, but I might machine the casting line nearer the join. The cylinder fettled up nicely too!
(https://i.imgur.com/MUjBZDc.jpg)
-
2k Satin Black Tryout
Well, I used the hemi carbide 1/4" cutter to clean up the errant casting lines, and it seems to have worked OK. Etch primer and three coats of 2k satin black. It's a bit shiny for my taste, and I might do another well thinned coat to reduce the gloss, but I'm tempted to declare it's a 'Major' improvement over what went before! :)
John
(https://i.imgur.com/wEO7jXn.jpg)
-
Looks very nice!
I like the satin black.
Dave
-
Hi Dave, and a Happy New Year to you! I'm warming to the colour!
-
The black goes really well with the polished parts
Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for your kind comments, they keep the motivation coming! I see from your avatar that you are a Landy fan. I bought my Mk3 SWB County when I was working in Qatar, and had it shipped home. Sadly it had to go eventually when I needed the money!
(https://i.imgur.com/6dHoyOv.jpg?1)
-
Painting the Baseplate
This baseplate looked like it had never been fettled before painting. I spent the afternoon improving the baseplate, hopefully as the following pictures will prove! I'll put on the topcoat tomorrow and then I can get on with the fun bits!
Restored all round and all over with a bastard file and the delta power worker.
(https://i.imgur.com/dvU3Dx2.jpg)
Cleaned up with wire brush, gunwash and a dry rag!
(https://i.imgur.com/ykc0BRz.jpg)
Crisp edges and flat surfaces. Well pleased!
(https://i.imgur.com/RdZiQ4K.jpg)
I missed the flash in the LHS of the crank well aperture! >:(
(https://i.imgur.com/CvQihDR.jpg)
-
Much better! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
To lag or not to lag, that is the question!
Some tryout pics for you, using 1/8" thick maple battens made on my FET saw. I was thinking of securing them with stainless bands to match the brightwork. I am still undecided...
(https://i.imgur.com/VFVSU5B.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G9EzSWH.jpg)
-
If they were stained/oiled darker they would look good. The edges would need to be beveled a little to get a close fit.
-
If it were a vote, I would agree the stained/oiled wooden slats would add a prototypical vista......taking it one step further, you could consider adding 3 x horizontal bands of 1/8" cork to the as cast in reduced diameters of the cylinder OD.......
:noidea: ......a 12" [300 mm] square self-adhesive cork floor tile would be idea...and also provide a sound gluing surface for the wooden slat to cork interface
Looking forward to progress in 2021
Derek :cheers:
-
Hi You could profile the individual strips by using a scratch plate or a Vernier to give a bit more interest..this is on an Easton and Anderson engine....
Willy
-
If they were stained/oiled darker they would look good. The edges would need to be beveled a little to get a close fit.
Many thanks for your inputs. Agreed on the darker finish. Regarding the edges, I have a Proxxon FET saw, so I was able to bevel them at precisely 11 degrees during manufacture. Hopefully you won't see the join (honest!) O:-)
John
(https://i.imgur.com/PstQUYA.jpg)
-
I took the plunge!
Thin Balsa is the model engineer's friend. Superglued in two layers to bring it up level with the ribs.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZJ4XfzN.jpg)
As you can see, it made a very nice base for the hardwood planks.
(https://i.imgur.com/yPUrhbX.jpg)
A big, new LARGE file brought everything level pretty quickly!
(https://i.imgur.com/2drgF9E.jpg)
Some sanding time later...
(https://i.imgur.com/77Fk3Xz.jpg)
A tryout with stainless bands. The virgin Maple is a bit too bright methinks.
(https://i.imgur.com/CW9mEj7.jpg)
Mahogany stain is better, but I'm still undecided about the colour. I tried a Dark Oak first of all, but it looked terrible! I'm tempted to paint it black and keep the bright bands!
(https://i.imgur.com/T8q8thY.jpg)
-
I finished the lagging and oiled the wood but painting the bands is still under discussion!
(https://i.imgur.com/TmwFHVX.jpg)
The valve chest cover and the flange on the cylinder looked a bit bulky, even though they had been machined. On checking the drawing the cover needed 2 mm taken off, and the cylinder flange still needs 3.5 mm removed! The castings' dimensions are not up to normal Stuart standards so who knows where they came from...
The bronze boss was left on for a reason: grip it in the tailstock chuck and tighten the chuck jaws around it!
(https://i.imgur.com/qYrZNsb.jpg)
It was only 0.5mm out but I had to clock it!
(https://i.imgur.com/WcVmeEo.jpg)
There was 0.75mm variation in the thickness!
(https://i.imgur.com/9feDbiA.jpg)
Turned around and gripped on the boss. Took off nearly 2mm!
(https://i.imgur.com/IuUfx9P.jpg)
Cover and chest now to size but you can see the fatness of the cylinder flange. I'll machine it off tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/irx68Fm.jpg)
-
I remember reading on this forum that it was impossible to fit the valve rod without drilling a hole in the base of the steam chest to insert the thing, which required a plug. As I had to make a new steam chest I made a screw-in boss which makes it easy. The home made slide valve sits well in there too!
(https://i.imgur.com/HK970ZT.jpg)
I have to make some standoff washers the same size as the home made nuts otherwise the paint will be damaged. I'll finish this cylinder sometime soon!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/3H7J0f4.jpg)
It's all coming along nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/d2cwi4u.jpg)
-
Valve Hand Lever
Looking at other people's examples of this awkward little piece led me to consider fabricating it. Here is the story.
(https://i.imgur.com/v8CDHWF.jpg)
I made the wiggly bit first, utilising an extension piece supported by my home made low profile revolving centre.
(https://i.imgur.com/FmqZT74.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u1wbqML.jpg)
Then I made the shank from 1/8" plate,turned the bit with a hole in it and filed the keyway. There is silver solder paste at the joint.
Yes, I know now that the keyway is in the wrong place!
(https://i.imgur.com/dbXXMYJ.jpg)
Silver solder paste costs more than gold, but it's worth it!
(https://i.imgur.com/05gvcp2.jpg)
There's a spigot on the handle base which I used to locate the handle when soldering it on. I'm very please with it. If anyone says they heard it was made from solid like everybody else does I'll tell them it's a complete fabrication! :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/uiEFB8M.jpg)
-
More Fabricated Bits!
Actuator Arms and Valve Motion Links, all connected with Cupalloy silver solder paste.
(https://i.imgur.com/jiVcRBv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uoo8Svr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JJjUJVO.jpg)
-
Very nice work :ThumbsUp:
If you still thinks the colour of the wood is too light - how about soaking it in old used motor oil ?
Best wishes
Per
-
More Fabricated Bits!
Actuator Arms and Valve Motion Links, all connected with Cupalloy silver solder paste.
(https://i.imgur.com/jiVcRBv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uoo8Svr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JJjUJVO.jpg)
Thanks for showing your work. I was hung up on making my links and you gave me an idea on fabricating my links. :ThumbsUp:
-
Hi Looking good. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Willy
-
Valve Crosshead Rod
Once again, I took the fabrication route as this is a horrid little piece to make from solid! I decided that I didn't have to copy the drawing, opting for a tapered cross head profile, incorporating threaded end caps so that I didn't have to slice the bronze bearings. I'm quite happy with the result. I have to solder the centre piece on tomorrow and polish it to the usual standard!
John
(https://i.imgur.com/Lwy83Ve.jpg)
Bronze bushes pressed in and fitting nicely! I turned the taper profile afterwards.
(https://i.imgur.com/z1zHyrP.jpg)
The width had to be 2.5". Close enough...
(https://i.imgur.com/bsIFx3x.jpg)
I can live with this!
(https://i.imgur.com/8ipilOA.jpg)
-
I do like a bit of spit and polish! Soft soldered on and the tiny gap has filled nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/mr4p8Ix.jpg)
Big nuts or small nuts? Which is nicer? I'm leaning towards small nuts... ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/GukZOe5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n8VKmT5.jpg)
-
Valve Shaft Bearings
Not difficult, but it turned into a tricky little job as the original owner had played with the castings to their detriment! Off centre holes and faces, and worst of all, he had part drilled the bearing holes before slicing! Consequently I couldn't just mount them in a four jaw and resorted to the FB2 Milling Machine.
(https://i.imgur.com/YvOteTT.jpg)
You can see the part drilled hole in the LH casting. This meant it was impossible to drill and ream an accurately placed hole in the normal way. To get over this I plunged a 5mm 3 flute end mill through the casting, and followed up with a 5.5mm reamer. It worked!
(https://i.imgur.com/qeBCXwl.jpg)
Now we are getting somewhere! I now have to pretty up the bearings, make the oil cups, and fix the bearings onto the base plate. BTW the slotted screws are only temporary...
(https://i.imgur.com/fqI0PGO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pfyiru0.jpg)
-
At the rate you're going you may finish your Major sooner than I complete mine.
Stating that the slotted screws are temporary is necessary, otherwise you might be criticised ..... :LittleDevil: :popcorn:
Andy
-
At the rate you're going you may finish your Major sooner than I complete mine.
Stating that the slotted screws are temporary is necessary, otherwise you might be criticised ..... :LittleDevil: :popcorn:
Andy
Hi Andy, good to hear from you. I can't help but work fast, it comes from my time looking after a sub-contract machine shop, where time really was money!
I take your point about the slotted screws, but I always ask the rivet counters "How did you do yours..."
You haven't commented on my fabrication methods, I'd be interested in your views. Is it heresy or what? :stir:
Regards
John
-
Well John it’s your engine to build as you wish, 'each to his own'.
The Major is my largest model engineering project, I’m not in a hurry to complete it, started mine six years ago!
I usually enjoy taking on the challenge of making the parts as drawn, even though some failed and had to be made twice. The parts you have made look to be effective and nicely finished so that’s ok.
As I am self-taught not a professional engineer like yourself I wouldn't dream of passing judgement on other members methods.
I find the MEM community is where I pick up so much good practice, advice and encouragement.
Andy
-
SNIP
I find the MEM community is where I pick up so much good practice, advice and encouragement.
Andy
Hi Andy. Even though I'm a time served Fitter/Machinist it doesn't make me a good model engineer. Like you, I've learnt a great deal from following ME forums!
John
-
John, I couldn't agree more. I too am time served but that was 55 ish years ago. This forum is where I find out how to sort model engineering. Terry
-
Valve Chest Cover Beautification
This cover is held on by six huge 4BA studs, and to me it is as ugly as sin! I determined to rectify this, and I spent this afternoon making a 1.6mm thick pierced steel plate, tapped for 20 x M2.5 stainless steel studs. This will be attached to the valve chest cover using four of the M2.5 studs, the cover underneath being held on with six countersunk 4BA screws instead of studs and nuts.
It is just an experiment, but it has to be an improvement!
(https://i.imgur.com/Sv7Qlft.jpg)
A better idea of scale. I'm thinking of chemically blacking it and the nuts, leaving the stainless studs bright. I have to say I like it very much!
(https://i.imgur.com/Ino6cR1.jpg)
-
Valve Chest Cover is Now a Little Prettier!
I know that some people will hate this approach, but I love it. The Victorians were very good at what we now call 'Bling'.😱
I blacked the nuts, it's proper cosmetics for blokes!
I haven't bolted it on yet, but I will tomorrow
The cover plate is held on to the original cover in four places. You can see the studs that will be used.
(https://i.imgur.com/4M6phni.jpg)
All the nuts and studs fitted, including the steam inlet flange.
(https://i.imgur.com/f8Ul4PR.jpg)
Victorian Bling methinks! :D I'll put it together tomorrow and see what it looks like :)
(https://i.imgur.com/E3QXQbb.jpg)
-
Nice 'Vling'! How did you do the blackening?
-
Nice 'Vling'! How did you do the blackening?
Hello, and thanks for your post. I have a blackening kit from Polly Models in the UK. A four stage cold process which only takes about five minutes if you productionise it! It seems to resist corrosion too, unlike some.
John
-
I couldn't resist a tryout!
(https://i.imgur.com/FsXCFI8.jpg)
My Choice of Piston Rings.
I see much wailing and gnashing of teeth over the choice of piston ring material: Cast iron, PTFE, Fluorosint etc..
I intend to build this to be run by an electric motor, but with the option of running it on compressed air. Steam is OK on locomotive tracks, but it is hot, smelly and makes an awful mess on the mantlepiece... :Mad:
I'm no expert on bearings, but Visconite is a self lubricating plastic bearing material which is used for low speed/temperature applications such as marine prop shafts. It also doesn't expand much in the presence of water, and most handy of all, it doesn't go rusty, so this is what I'm using in my engine, mainly because I just happen to have a lump of it in the drawer!
It's lovely stuff to machine, leaving a silky smooth finish.
(https://i.imgur.com/BMyX7V1.jpg)
Scarfed joint made with a thin saw blade. It fits just fine in the cylinder!
(https://i.imgur.com/osyfkee.jpg)
Tomorrow should see the cylinder group completed!
Beam or flywheel next?
John
-
It's been a busy couple of days!
Buying a part built is always a gamble, and this one was no exception. Careful examination is a must! Today I cleaned up a pile of bits, made some 2BA studs and locknuts for the crankshaft bearing blocks, machined the crankshaft and was thus able to do a trial assembly. The green painted bits have not been touched yet, apart from some rust removal, and the difference in the finish is profound and I can't wait to apply some decent paint!
There are still some glaring errors, and the parallel links will be time consuming, but I should be finished by the Summer Holidays!
(https://i.imgur.com/QG8wnOD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UCHBNc1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ft7zC1f.jpg)
-
Eccentric and Valve Rod.
Not a lot going on lately as we have had two recent Covid tragedies in our close family. However, I got into the workshop today and worked on the eccentric and the drive rod. I did something about the eccentric: I cut off the offending bit and silver soldered another piece on to it! The eccentric body was 1/8" too fat so had to be machined down, and the bronze casting finish was 'orrible...
Once again, I refused to make this out the solid! Three pieces silver soldered together. I also dumped the slotted design and used a threaded bearing end cap, as with the other actuator bits.
(https://i.imgur.com/wgMz4s7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Djr0ThX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4e6Ur2K.jpg)
-
Hello again. I left the forum a little while ago as I, like others who have recently expressed a similar opinion, felt that I was posting my build progress into thin air. However, this forum is valuable and should be encouraged, so I've rejoined and here are some recent progress pics. I'm basically copying the format of the Taylor build from 1968. With some improvements... :whoohoo:
This one 'ere!
(https://i.imgur.com/Pw5czpF.jpg)
Steam valve plumbed in.
(https://i.imgur.com/OLyjgIM.jpg)
Conrod waiting for split bearings.
(https://i.imgur.com/srh6Svv.jpg)
Machining the fake grouting on the plinth. It will be dusted with silver sand and painted white (ish).
(https://i.imgur.com/pcjGINQ.jpg)
Maple planked floor.
(https://i.imgur.com/Fwj8D4v.jpg)
Starting to look like it's nearly finished!
(https://i.imgur.com/BBg80pK.jpg)
-
Wow! Glad you've chosen to post your progress on this engine again! You've made some good progress and it's very interesting to see how you've done the brickwork for the plinth. Can't wait to see it all painted! :popcorn:
Kim
-
Very nice, I've been following along on facebook in the stuart group
-
Very nice, I've been following along on facebook in the stuart group
Good morning and thanks for the feedback! May I ask your username?
John
-
The Governor! Part 'A'
Once again, I'm not partial to machining things from solid when I can make -I think- a neater job by fabricating it. This part is specified mild steel but I'm making it out of brass as I like a bit of 'bling'!
(https://i.imgur.com/eDNhQ7Y.jpg)
Part on a stick. I slotted the end 3/16 wide and 1/4" deep.
(https://i.imgur.com/pLnSbhU.jpg)
Turned the basic shape. I found out later that I should have used 7/16" bar and not 3/8"...
(https://i.imgur.com/XazUodF.jpg)
Another part on a stick, drilled and slotted.
(https://i.imgur.com/WUWEOpG.jpg)
Solder paint job. I put the piece back in the lathe and drilled and reamed the additional piece. It is very slightly off centre but it looks OK on the machine!
(https://i.imgur.com/wsNqh8k.jpg)
It needs a polish, but it will do... O:-)
(https://i.imgur.com/bdUzvie.jpg)
-
I agree! It looks very nice on the engine :ThumbsUp:
Kim
-
It looks great. One question. When you say solder paint, what is that? Is it hard solder or soft solder?
Tony
-
It looks great. One question. When you say solder paint, what is that? Is it hard solder or soft solder?
Tony
Hi Tony. It is soft solder finely ground into a paste. No flux needed.
John
-
Thanks, it was the paint term that got me. We generally know it as paste solder. The stuff we have is more like a thick grease consistency.
Tony
-
Andy mentioned walkways. This is one I prepared earlier, and I was going to paint it black.
I'm still undecided whether to use it...
John
(https://i.imgur.com/LMBNtSe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z52W4Rs.jpg)
-
Morning John,
I appreciate the dilemna with the walkway issue, it's difficult to acheive something that looks right. There's the risk that it could detract from the overall appearance of a model. I've posted a little more about walkways on my build log.
Andy
-
The Governor! Part 'B'.
I made this in three parts: barrel, cross piece and finial. Same technique as for the lower part.
(https://i.imgur.com/jKC95FW.jpg)
Silver soldered this time as I didn't want it flying off the top!
(https://i.imgur.com/CU6VhbU.jpg)
Mounted on a 4BA stud, drilled and tapped 4BA for the finial.
(https://i.imgur.com/7jMU2B5.jpg)
Starting to look quite pretty although they could always do with a bit more polishing!! I really do think that fabrication is the way to deal with these tricky parts.
(https://i.imgur.com/8VQAdyb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ASlMDMz.jpg)
-
Certainly is very nice looking! :popcorn:
Kim
-
Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I'm glad you decided to start posting again :)
-
Hi John
Just catching up with a few threads here.
Re your walkway, I personally think it would look better without it. We use that perforated material a lot at work, and to my eye it does not sit well with the rest of the model.
I hope you take my comments as being constructive.
Phil
-
Hi John
Just catching up with a few threads here.
Re your walkway, I personally think it would look better without it. We use that perforated material a lot at work, and to my eye it does not sit well with the rest of the model.
I hope you take my comments as being constructive.
Phil
Agreed, no problem.
John
-
Nice work John. I wonder if you could get like a miniature tread plate for the walkways (the old style not the modern checker plate)
Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk
-
The Governor's Ball Joints!
Not a lot to show for three or four afternoons' work, but I think I've cracked how to machine bosses on the surface of the arms. The chuck holds a bathtub fixture which in turn holds the work piece. I'm still experimenting but it's simple and looking good so far... :)
(https://i.imgur.com/m4x1o0W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GbpHzc1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Un6SqYI.jpg)
-
Nice work ..... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
-
Nice work ..... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
Hi Don. I might just do without the bosses as they are just 7 thou high and just polish everything just nice. At my age who needs bosses anyway!
John
-
The bosses look good, but whatever you think would be best for your build! You are the master engineer on this project, so what you say goes! :)
Kim
-
The bosses look good, but whatever you think would be best for your build! You are the master engineer on this project, so what you say goes! :)
Kim
Agreed! No bosses or walkway: decision made.
Sorry Sam!😇
-
More on The Guvnor's Balls!
After three hours of close, detailed work, and if you haven't ruined these two tiny pieces of metal through an inadvertent file stroke or argument with a polishing spindle, or dropped it on the floor, never to be seen again, you might land up with two like this...
BTW I abandoned the idea of the bosses, just too fiddly!
Two 3/16" filing buttons, used both ends.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kc5T5jM.jpg)
Both ends rounded, now held in a large toolmaker's clamp to profile the edges. I took them over to the Proxxon to finish sand them.
(https://i.imgur.com/6UeVud8.jpg)
Two little darlings!
(https://i.imgur.com/cWGcIKd.jpg)
Of course, the drawing doesn't show enough clearance on the carriers for the link ends, but that can be fixed easily enough!
(https://i.imgur.com/53m5CY0.jpg)
-
Nice :ThumbsUp: Terry
-
Nice work John. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
A very elegant and pleasing curved profile. The Victorians had an eye for style.
Mike
-
Excellent work - and I just learned a new technique. Filing buttons - never occurred to me before as a means of getting a good radius like that.
-
The Guvnor's Balls are in the Air! (Edited :LittleAngel:)
I've had a few projects in the air in my time but none were this tricky!
As per drawing. The pivot shafts are temporary...
(https://i.imgur.com/eUMmRog.jpg?1)
On the machine. Oooh I'm chuffed!
(https://i.imgur.com/rBYHEwG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y7WsxF9.jpg)
-
Beautiful engine - these pictures are great.
-
Beautiful engine - these pictures are great.
Thanks for the compliment. BTW I'd never heard of filing buttons either until I retired and started serious ME work, and I'm a time served fitter/machinist!
John
-
Terrific parts. Had to warn the shop elves off commenting on the titles... :Lol:
-
I love these Victorian style engines and yours John, is a beauty. Really impressive work.
-
My thanks for the kind comments. I've been asked why the pivot shafts are temporary, and here's the reason. It seems that some builders omit these little pins, but I will be making them. If I had thought about it I should have made the holes slightly smaller and used 1/16" brass rivets! :facepalm:
(https://i.imgur.com/MUr0DJx.jpg)
-
Nice work on the governor, cant be long now until its running can it?
-
Nice work on the governor, cant be long now until its running can it?
I received my new spectacles today, so hopefully soon... :whoohoo:
-
Governor Actuator Arm
I made this little beastie this affy. Once again, it's a complete fabrication! The stirrup is a little long as I misjudged the curved length, but what the hell, it looks nice enough...
(https://i.imgur.com/p8WszaV.jpg)
I cut the basic shape in the 2mm steel with the jeweller's saw. No milling and hacking for me!
(https://i.imgur.com/ZQ8Czzp.jpg)
Filing button for the centre boss.
(https://i.imgur.com/JqCRIAO.jpg)
Shaping the stirrup. Pure guesswork on the dimensions!
(https://i.imgur.com/AO1t24o.jpg)
Silver solder paste to join the two parts.
(https://i.imgur.com/2Xnp8tC.jpg)
Not quite to the drawing but it will do!
(https://i.imgur.com/x5gbWCj.jpg)
-
Hi this is looking really good and coming along wonderfully..great progress
Willy
-
Excellent :praise2: :praise2: There is so much detail. I am also a fan of filling buttons :wine1:
-
Excellent :praise2: :praise2: There is so much detail. I am also a fan of filling buttons :wine1:
:cheers:
-
That is very impressive hand/benchwork. I would have probably drove myself crazy manually machining it from solid. I’m definitely storing that away for future reference. Well done.
-Bob
-
Electric Drive Tryout
I've taken a break from making tiny bits and as I've received the 24T XL timing pulley and belt I am now looking at the drive mechanism. I'll machine out the centre ridge on the intermediate pulley so the belt sits correctly and creates a decent drive surface. !'ll probably get a shorter belt to reduce the visual impact of the pulley.
BTW I know the eccentric rod is too long and I'll fix it!
John
(https://i.imgur.com/lFEK1GW.jpg)
You tube video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKz7Ys2cHtw
-
Super! I'm with you - I could watch it all day. Lovely motion.
-
Beautiful!
-
Plinth Skirting and Setting Up the Flywheel Bearing Support.
The plinth is designed to be easily detachable, so an accurate and secure location is needed. I've used 10mm hardwood mouldings, glued to the planks with impact adhesive. The tape protected my nice maple planks from the adhesive spray!
(https://i.imgur.com/GD5HSiC.jpg)
Looking fairly neat, but it will look better when I do the granite face work.
(https://i.imgur.com/QpYn7GQ.jpg)
Now that the plinth is accurately positioned, I can set and install the outer bearing support. It is held down firmly by two CSK 2BA screws inserted underneath.
(https://i.imgur.com/IscrfLv.jpg)
Even though it looked right, when bolted up it needed 0.5mm shims to maintain concentricity. No problem to fix, as I used two spacer strips inside the enclosure, and I'll just shave that amount off them and all will be sweetness and light!
(https://i.imgur.com/ge4ITk3.jpg)
-
Nice work, the planking looks great
Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk
-
Drive System now installed. I've now got no excuse not to finish all those fiddly bits!
(https://i.imgur.com/gpPPOBs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/glj7nGJ.jpg)
Short video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D697WGohAxs
-
Very nice system, and runs it at a good speed too.
Do you intend to ever run it on air? Or is it only going to run with the electric motor?
Kim
-
Very nice system, and runs it at a good speed too.
Do you intend to ever run it on air? Or is it only going to run with the electric motor?
Kim
Hi Kim
I've engineered it to run on air: I fitted a Visconite piston ring to facilitate same. A club member suggested I get a sound module that goes 'chuff' in the right places...however, I'm happy just to watch it on electric power.
John
-
I've given up on the fake quarried stone!
I couldn't get the effect I wanted so I've covered the plinth in some very thin maple veneer to give myself a nice virgin surface to work with.
(https://i.imgur.com/B7NDOsc.jpg)
I lightly sanded and oiled the rear panel and it doesn't look half bad! If I put some nice edging on it I might just run with it as it is... :LittleDevil:
John
(https://i.imgur.com/tR6elFo.jpg)
-
Looks great - will make a very nice presentation for sure.
-
Yes, it's always disappointing when your plan doesn't pan out the way you'd pictured. But this is going to look great too!
Kim
-
A Different Approach.
I tried, without success, to emulate Jason's method, but failed miserably. However, I got myself some textured paint spray, and gave that a go, using Jason's method with a coloured base coat and thin masking tape. I'm quite impressed with the results.
Ivory emulsion base coat with three very thin coats of the stuff otherwise it goes 'gloopy' and joins together!
(https://i.imgur.com/ZkDooTy.jpg)
Here are the test cards. My white 0.7mm POSCA pen is a bit thin for this job, but you get the idea! I prefer the ivory with white grouting to the white base coat with black grout (which is Mr. Taylor's original colour scheme).
(https://i.imgur.com/2AAylF1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TTG33vQ.jpg)
-
Wow! That does look quite nice! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Kim
-
Better Fake Stone Blocks!
Two coats of white ceiling emulsion, three hours spent with masking tape, followed by a heart in the mouth spray session. I let the stuff dry in the sun for four hours, and gave it a coat of clear lacquer to 'fix' it and give the stone a bit of a 'glisten'!
Methinks It will do 🤩...
(https://i.imgur.com/Iw5GEn8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3xYKWRv.jpg)
-
That will do nicely Sir. :)
Proportions of stone and spacing of joints looks a lot better than the previous too
-
That will do nicely Sir. :)
Proportions of stone and spacing of joints looks a lot better than the previous too
Thanks Jason for the good advice. This very old dog still likes to learn new tricks! :NotWorthy:
-
Came out great! I used one of the other colors of that paint on a base once, interesting to use since it comes out chunky with the texture, great effect.
-
Looks great and really authentic.
-
Very nice looking! You should be pleased with that! :cheers:
Kim
-
That came out great! I may well steal that idea.
Cheers, Joe
-
Looks great!
Nice work!
Dave
-
Thanks for the kind comments. I bought a grey paint marker to do the grouting but the bare white undercoat looks just fine. Non-one was more surprised than me when I removed the masking tape! :whoohoo:
-
Display Base and Plinth Completed I can now get on with the rest of the fiddly bits!
Edges planed. Four 'Hockey Sticks' produced on the Proxxon FET saw from a piece of Mahogany and mitred on my new bench sander.
(https://i.imgur.com/d6Iy3e2.jpg)
Where would we be without cheapy tools!
(https://i.imgur.com/U6nOMqV.jpg)
Sanded and oiled. Well pleased with the result.
(https://i.imgur.com/lVwsIdd.jpg)
-
Very nice work...... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
-
;D#
Looks great!
Nice work!
Dave
I’m with Dave. :ThumbsUp:
-
Magnificent :praise2:
-
I must take a good look at your stone making technique.
AVTUR
-
Governor Assembled
Well, I stopped looking for the lost stirrup and made another one! I also went for pivot pins instead of the more often seen 10BA screws: I just have to make the fixture for drilling the 1/32" holes in the right place...
Progress!
John
Silver soldering paste for the stirrup join.
(https://i.imgur.com/XMFV8pe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KAL4Ghy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NyDNQKu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NVQDxde.jpg)
-
Very slick. :ThumbsUp:
-
Looks great! Very nice proportions and finish on everything. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Governor Valve Links
Our caravan comes out of storage tomorrow so I had to finish the governor! The links are straightforward, but like many model engines, are well over scale and need to be reduced somewhat. For example, the butterfly valve link rods are specified 3/16", so in full size that would make them nearly 2" in diameter, so they are now only 1/8" diameter and to me they look much better!! The same applies to the adjuster, both in thickness and in length.
Some progress pics.
Using a 'Frog' to hold the boss onto the arm
(https://i.imgur.com/hxY09Cu.jpg)
You can see that the solder paste leaves very little residues to clean up. Damned expensive but worth every cent!
(https://i.imgur.com/p83RdJ9.jpg)
A self centreing four jaw chuck is dead handy for these jobs.
(https://i.imgur.com/kKv2YUl.jpg)
My home made bending machine makes light and accurate work of the link rods.
(https://i.imgur.com/rsm3L7P.jpg)
Looking quite a picture now!
(https://i.imgur.com/qfv0Bg4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jxv1nuK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IsyXpPK.jpg)
-
:ThumbsUp:
Nice work!
John
-
Agree that your finished link look very much to scale :ThumbsUp:
Our caravan comes out of storage tomorrow so I had to finish the governor!
WHAT .... are you going to leave us hanging here in suspense :o ;)
Per
-
Agree that your finished link look very much to scale :ThumbsUp:
Our caravan comes out of storage tomorrow so I had to finish the governor!
WHAT .... are you going to leave us hanging here in suspense :o ;)
Per
.
Er, yes, as I have to keep the REAL governor happy some of the time!😇
-
Er, yes, as I have to keep the REAL governor happy some of the time!😇
:lolb:
Ok on a more serious not - as these things are to do with respect for the other half - it can't be any other way - enjoy the trip :cheers:
-
A Quick Escape from the chores!
While waiting for my caravan floor refurb to dry out I had a look at the crank case. It's a solder or rivet job, but if you have a 3D printer then this is what you do...
Printing the prototype cage in PETG. I have some black on order so I won't have to paint it.
(https://i.imgur.com/P2IrPMJ.jpg)
Shaping the stainless steel insert.
(https://i.imgur.com/JQyZLnq.jpg)
Quite a nice fit!
(https://i.imgur.com/YdloruZ.jpg)
That's what I call BLING!
(https://i.imgur.com/OBetBra.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OEGxmK9.jpg)
-
We Are Connected!
I managed a couple of hours in the workshop today as we've postponed our caravan holiday for a few days until the storm passes through.
Thanks to a knowledgeable friend I now have what I think is a neat solution using XT30 connectors. I'm using a multi-voltage adaptor which also drives my barbeque spit, so I've left the various plugs on it for the time being. BTW the 4mm set screw holding the wheel on is temporary!
(https://i.imgur.com/sUDTY6O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aLSnGKt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HFZ3ZGL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yBWunAl.jpg)
-
I did a few hours on the beast as the caravan is now ready for the Lake District trip. There's still some studs and the pump links to make and, of course, the parallel motion, but it's nearly there and looking quite nice! :)
John
(https://i.imgur.com/98nOdWT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k2txecn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aVMogN0.jpg)
-
Superb John.........[just one point if I may........the 'asbestos' type lagging on the steam pipes would in most cases be shown in white].....
Gloss white is great....any oil drips wipe off :facepalm: without staining a flat white surface].....sets the plant off very well :ThumbsUp:
Derek :cheers:
-
Superb John.........[just one point if I may........the 'asbestos' type lagging on the steam pipes would in most cases be shown in white].....
Gloss white is great....any oil drips wipe off :facepalm: without staining a flat white surface].....sets the plant off very well :ThumbsUp:
Derek :cheers:
Hi Derek, and thanks for your input. I was intending to paint the lagging white, but as I've used waxed lacing cord I have to be a bit circumspect over the method in order to get the paint to stick! I will make a test piece and report back...
John
-
That is looking awesome John…… :Love:
:cheers:
Don
-
Not necessarily. The asbestos was quite often painted a dark colour, maybe because it was going to get dirty anyway, and also to stop it fraying.
-
Not necessarily. The asbestos was quite often painted a dark colour, maybe because it was going to get dirty anyway, and also to stop it fraying.
Agreed. I made a test piece and it didn't look right: the paint accentuated the sharp edges of the cord. The unpainted lacing cord fits well with the black/bright theme, so I'll leave things as they are.
Thanks for the inputs.
John
-
We have returned from our sojourn in Spain so watch this space!
John
-
:popcorn:
-
Well, it's a start, innit?
(https://i.imgur.com/paYbpC3.jpg)
-
Yup! :popcorn:
-
Stuart Major Beam Radius Rods
Here's a few pics covering the first stage of their manufacture. The idea is to get the bearing housings exactly in line with each other and at the correct distance apart. I choose to fabricate bits like these rather than hack huge lumps of metal to shape! Today I've made the rings, faced off where the rod connects to provide a sound joint, and drilled a hole to take a joining pin. Tomorrow I'll make the rod bodies.
This is what is required. A precision job to ensure it all fits properly!
(https://i.imgur.com/Oy6NBzV.jpg)
Free cutting stainless steel 0.625" diameter. A simple drill, ream and part off job.
(https://i.imgur.com/9KhXJD1.jpg)
Deburred to enable the bronze bearing to fit proper like!
(https://i.imgur.com/ha9hmxj.jpg)
This is the quick way to set up. The ring is 7/32" thick, so place a 7/32" rod in the chuck and use that to get the vice central. Replace with a small centre drill and using a feeler gauge, get the gauge level by eye. Drill 1.6mm and face off with a end mill. It is close enough!
(https://i.imgur.com/gCgVMP3.jpg)
-
More on Radius Rods
Turned and shaped a radius rod today, and silver soldered it to the bearing rings. The centre distance was near enough, and it was straight and correctly aligned. However, it turned out that the solder paste flux was not strong enough for the free cutting stainless I'm using, and the joints were very weak, and subsequently failed.
Anyway, here's the work sequence for your edification...
The bar is 7/32" diameter, and the length defined with a parting tool using the DRO to measure 2.894" from the end. I set the compound slide at 1.25 degrees and used a round nosed carbide profile tip. I parted it off, turned it round and did the other end. Finish with a smooth 6" file and varying emery cloth down to 400 grit.
(https://i.imgur.com/MLRHbsU.jpg)
It fits exactly!
(https://i.imgur.com/O4POyyR.jpg)
Soldered up with dowel pins inserted and silver solder paste. I had to use a 20mm torch head to counteract the heat transfer!
(https://i.imgur.com/mkqjEJ3.jpg)
t should have been 4.125", but so long as the other one is the same there shouldn't be a problem!
(https://i.imgur.com/3IgRvQ0.jpg)
Cleaning up in the lathe. One end is pushed against the biggest collet I have, and the other is in the home made cup centre. It was perfectly safe!
(https://i.imgur.com/G91CSJ1.jpg)
Still the right size, and looking the part, but I'll have resolder using some stronger flux. Hey ho, thats model engineering for you!
(https://i.imgur.com/0CWBjWy.jpg)
-
Radius rods are looking good! Do you have any silver solder wire so you could add a little extra solder for flowing through the joint, in addition to the paste stuff?
-
Radius rods are looking good! Do you have any silver solder wire so you could add a little extra solder for flowing through the joint, in addition to the paste stuff?
Yes, it looks like I will go that way, or change the setup and introduce the solder from inside the ring.
-
You really need tenacity No 5 or CuP's HT5 as they contain something that removes the chromium oxide given off by heating the stainless steel that other fluxes don't. This will apply to whatever silver solder you are using.
Harris Black flux will do the same in the US
-
You really need tenacity No 5 or CuP's HT5 as they contain something that removes the chromium oxide given off by heating the stainless steel that other fluxes don't. This will apply to whatever silver solder you are using.
Harris Black flux will do the same in the US
I've used both the Tenacity 5 and the Harris Black, both work well, I like the Harris one better.
-
Piston Rod Crosshead
It's too cold to spend much time in the workshop, and the radius rods need time spent on them, but a quick clean job was this crosshead. Stainless steel, made from some 5/8" round bar, turned both ends and machined square in the mill. The end caps will be fitted later. There's a tapered hole in it to take the piston rod, which has a matching taper on its end. I didn't have a big enough taper pin reamer, but that's what friends are for...thanks Chris!
I have to make a fixing pin, but that can wait!
(https://i.imgur.com/t6getng.jpg)
-
Looking terrific!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Those lucky souls who are building one of these may remember that I made a governor actuator, and promptly lost it, and had to make another. Well, it turned up today, having fallen into a little used drawer which must have been open at the time!
I'm open to offers, and I'm particularly fond of Tanqueray Gin... :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/fl46xpH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Gir2QNK.jpg)
-
Hi, I have noticed on all the drawings the measurements are in fractional inches .... I do have this micrometer that has fractional as well as decimal and metric scales ?!!! it is the only one I have seen though......also there are some measurements that are in metric !!
Lovely build going on here...superb...
Willy
-
Thanks Willy, soon be finished, then it will blow your socks off! :whoohoo:
-
I've Just Discovered Rippers!
I thought that I knew enough about precision engineering to keep me going until the end... but today i found a little 10mm end mill in a drawer, bought as part of a job lot, and it had these odd serrations on the flutes. I had never seen one before in all my 59 years in the trade. I slapped it it in the ER20 chuck and started to trim the end of the parallel motion links. Much to my surprise the thing cut steel noiselessly at 400 odd rpm, with no vibration at all, and left a pretty damn good finish, far better than the 4 flute one that I used to rough out the inners. I will use it again!
Never let it be said that an old dog can't learn new tricks...!
(https://i.imgur.com/7XcVYYN.jpg)
As an adjunct, I managed to get a nice taper pin fix on the crosshead: I wasn't interested in gib keys!
(https://i.imgur.com/qNhg9Vp.jpg)
-
Huh. I've seen that style end mill but never tried one, assumed like you did that it would leave a rough finish. The serrations must be offset to match the gaps, neat.
Another old dog willing to learn a new trick! Voof!
-
I have seen those called rough cut mills. I've got a few and they do go through stock faster than your standard end mill. But I've found that they don't leave as smooth of a finish as a nice sharp 4 flute climb cut does.
And unless I'm removing a lot of material, it just doesn't seem worth it to change end mills for it. But they do remove material fast!
Kim
-
called differant names RMR rippa but much the same used them starting in 1980s used 5/8"dia for pro filling or cutting out tools in first a beaver cnc mill then latter in much heaver mazak miachining enters 1" and 1 1/4" dia full width and into 32mm thick tool steels they were extant for cutting out shapes cam plates all sorts of shapes for the roughing cuts and were finish did not matter where sizes were important
a finishing end mill used .it was much easier than spending hours leaning at the band saw i did often have to change to the 1" as when the 1 1/4"dia got a bit worn the feed axis would over load but using cutter compensation easy to change tool dia within limits the way the program
was written i had no cad cam in those days all just g and m etc codes profile worked out with a calculator .
JOHN i don't think these cutters were in tended for finishing they leave a rough finish.
-
SNIP
JOHN i don't think these cutters were intended for finishing they leave a rough finish.
Hi John
You know it, and I know it, but that doesn't alter the fact that this modest little cutter left an excellent finish!
I will pursue matters further...
John
-
I warmed up the workshop today and made a start on the drop links. A lot of beam engines don't get finished because these links and associated bits can be a bit tricky! I started with some 3/4" x 1/4" flat MS, and went from there.
(https://i.imgur.com/m2XC2OI.jpg)
Make yourself some filing buttons: 11/16"OD with a 7/16" boss. File and polish.
(https://i.imgur.com/aMQT8jJ.jpg)
Tryout. Hurrah! It looks the part!
(https://i.imgur.com/bKqCseP.jpg)
Now we are getting somewhere!
(https://i.imgur.com/mQIaDNZ.jpg)
-
Hurrah! It looks the part!
Oh yes it do :cheers:
-
Nearly there! :cheers:
-
Drop Link Slots
It was a dull wet day so after shopping to fill up the deep freeze in anticipation of yet another lockdown I had a go at the slots for the gibs and cotters. I was going to cheat and make deep slots with an added filler piece, but as I had a new 5/64" slot drill I reverted to the traditional method! I have a very posh DRO but two bed stops are a far better proposition when making fine cuts with delicate slot drills. This is because I don't have to look at a remote display whilst moving the work back and forth: I can concentrate on feeling the work.
This is what you land up with if you are careful. I made a slight mistake on one slot which will be filled with soft solder later...
(https://i.imgur.com/OBYcW4n.jpg)
Every slot has to be in exactly the same position on all four links, so I made an end stop for my new vice. I removed the fixed jaw and tapped it M6. The rest should be obvious from the pictures!
(https://i.imgur.com/haOfDqx.jpg)
The link is sitting on a parallel and is pressed up to the stop while tightening the vice. Soft hammers are not necessary!
(https://i.imgur.com/BhO9a5h.jpg)
I drilled all of them 1.8mm at each end of the slot to give the slot drill a start. Chain drilling was not necessary. You can see the bed stops in action. I then swopped the slot drill for the drill and took 0.7mm cuts until I reached the bottom, turned the link over and did the other side. Gib keys next!
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrB4Ta4.jpg)
-
This is as far as I got today before the dreaded hand cramps set in. They are getting more frequent these days, so I must drink more beer! I've polished one 75% to see how they look, and I'm quite pleased so far! Good job I found a needle hand file that was just the right size...
(https://i.imgur.com/NEw2wgy.jpg)
They all line up OK, so it's looking good!
(https://i.imgur.com/RncLyrS.jpg)
-
Another tick on the list of parts to make and they look good :ThumbsUp:
So I agree that you have earned a :DrinkPint:
Per
-
Another tick on the list of parts to make and they look good :ThumbsUp:
So I agree that you have earned a :DrinkPint:
Per
I'm enjoying it right now!
-
Guess who has lost three of the rectangular bearing shells...?
Following the excitement of the F1 race I got a couple of hours in on the drop link bearings. I had made the basic shells, but they needed to be machined to slide inside the drop links. I've assembled two just to prove the method: take no notice of the gaps, there's a packing pillar to go in and the yet to be made gib keys put it all together - hopefully...
I can't find three of the bearing shells. :facepalm: Never mind, I've got this far and it is looking the part and I am still motivated!
(https://i.imgur.com/RMpndfR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GAC44lp.jpg)
-
Looking good :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: Terry
-
Guess who has lost three of the rectangular bearing shells...?
...
Same guy that forgot to feed the shop gnomes so they stole the bearing shells? :facepalm:
Other than that, coming along great!
-
Drop Links Tryout Successful!
Well, I made some new bearing shells, but I needed to make one of the four spacing pillars to check the distance between the two bearings when the gib and cotter were tightened up. I needn't have worried, as no-one was more surprised than me when the keys settled in the right places!
As per drawing. The pillars were pressed into the rectangular steel spacers, much easier to make that way! Everything will be polished before final assembly... :whoohoo:
(https://i.imgur.com/44GdFjY.jpg)
On the machine.
(https://i.imgur.com/QTjiDOB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5ZldRQl.jpg)
Onwards and Upwards!
-
Thats looking excellent John, beautiful workmanship on it. How much more have you got to make on this engine?
Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
-
Beauty soon-to-be In Action!
-
Beautiful!
Isn't it exciting when you've spent so much time on a set of parts and then - it all comes together as it's supposed to? Nothing more fun than that!
Kim
-
Hi folks, and I thank you. I kid myself that there is not much to do now, but a lot of detail work remains, such as gasketing to get it air tight, quite few locknuts to make and blacken, and a lot of polishing!
Still, it keeps me off the gin!
-
90% done, with only 90% left to do...
Looking great, and of course it's all time well spent, right?
-
90% done, with only 90% left to do...
Looking great, and of course it's all time well spent, right?
Agreed!😊😊
-
That's two links done, just two to go!
(https://i.imgur.com/9GUBDCp.jpg)
-
A short video from me on how to test your drop links! :Love:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8LTfQhjLew
I also finished all four drop links. Well pleased!
#(https://i.imgur.com/N78khwH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/H6pdcSM.jpg)
-
Terrific!
-
Thats looking excellent
Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
-
Just a taster, I'll finish the thing next week! :Love:
(https://i.imgur.com/dVLTh24.jpg)
-
Parallel Motion Completed!
(Needs some polish, and some thinner 4BA nuts, but what a nice way to spend a Public Holiday!)
(https://i.imgur.com/6QBnc4U.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sqiqV1k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CW1ufYm.jpg)
I was going to fit it, but I just found another legacy issue: the cylinder is 1/4" too tall therefore the link fouls the gland! Grr...
-
Well, that's vexing, but that assembly is wonderful.
-
The motion links look terrific! I'm sure you'll work out a fix for the cylinder height, nibble a little here, a little there...
-
It Works! !!!!!!
It clears the cylinder gland so I won't have to alter it. :whoohoo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEQ2rPZnzNY
(https://i.imgur.com/FcNIORk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uXjUcIh.jpg)
-
That is working beautifully, wonderful motion. Your laugh partway through shows you are grinning well too! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
Wonderful :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: As I have said many, many times I do enjoy all the open linkages on steam engines :) :)
-
Beautiful! And yes, I believe anyone would be pleased with how well it's running!
Excellent work!
Kim
-
Thanks all for the positive comments. I can't quite believe the result myself... :Love:
-
It clears the cylinder gland so I won't have to alter it.
Oh yes it does :ThumbsUp: - but it looks very close in the video ;D
Very nice motion :praise2:
Per
-
That is working very nicely. Could you give me an idea of what electric motor you are powering that with?
-
That is working very nicely. Could you give me an idea of what electric motor you are powering that with?
It is a Bosch windscreen wiper motor: 12-18V via a nylon worm drive which makes for quiet operation.
-
WhewWE!! That is quite simply a gorgeous piece of work and so elegant to watch... :DrinkPint: :Love: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
-
Stately is the word that comes to my mind. That and Beautiful. Congratulations! :cheers:
-
"It is a Bosch windscreen wiper motor: 12-18V via a nylon worm drive which makes for quiet operation."
Thank You!
-
Oil/Water Pump
I finished the pump today: connecting rod, flanges and copper transfer pipe.
Did you know that you can hold square bar in a ER20 collet? I didn't until today! Absolute magic!
(https://i.imgur.com/atQLtDd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aJ8KWpZ.jpg)
-
Stuart Major Beam Roughly Assembled
I am changing the fake stone base for a veneered wooden one, so I've roughly assembled the beast to make sure everything works before I strip it all down. There are a few studs and knobs missing, and there is the odd click here and there, but you get the idea!
Well pleased with the result.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Km8WOiylC0
-
Hi ,In my local toyshop they have Mahogany veneer about 3" wide and 2' long and about 3/32" thick that I use for my engine basses. some is quite plain but some has quite pretty figuring on the grain .
Looking great and it did remove my socks for me !!!
Willy
-
That's beautiful! You have every right to be well pleased! :cheers:
Kim
-
Definitely the last picture before I strip it down and make a new base. My green workshop coat brings out the colours in the beast!
Cheers
John
(https://i.imgur.com/5jLWBzX.jpg)
-
Another one to be proud of John.
I'm trying to remember if it was a Britannia locomotive you were working on , on another site a few years ago. If I remember, that was coming along a treat as well.
-
Another one to be proud of John.
I'm trying to remember if it was a Britannia locomotive you were working on , on another site a few years ago. If I remember, that was coming along a treat as well.
This one 'ere. Too many distractions preventing me finish painting the tender!
(https://i.imgur.com/D35Nb5T.jpg)
-
That's the one! Always liked this engine.
-
Cylinder Lubricator
This thing would not be complete without the oilers, which I had largely forgotten about. The main one fits on the cylinder, and the top gland has to have a flat machined on it to make room for it. I also had to spot face the rim to provide a flat surface for it to sit on! Here's a few pics.
A full days work in this! I made a 3/8" dia. form tool for the ball shape out of 5/32" gauge plate.
(https://i.imgur.com/S0pmpN5.jpg)
Machining the gland and spot facing the rim.
(https://i.imgur.com/N3K0TfX.jpg)
It's the details that maketh a model! 🙂
(https://i.imgur.com/dsyZYi3.jpg)
-
Air/Steam Connector
I'm not going to run this on steam, but I am going to make a compressed air connection, using a modern push fit connector. I'll also show how I do the lagging.
Here's a few pics.
First you need some lagging tape left over from work in 1975! The conical gadget is normally used for winding springs in the lathe, but this time it is used to wind the tape.
(https://i.imgur.com/mdjbCBN.jpg)
Threading the tape was bit tricky, but some superglue and some thin wire did the trick!
(https://i.imgur.com/Y0XRK9G.jpg)
I set the thread pitch to 1.5mm, the same width as the tape, and just reversed the feed a few times until I had the desired diameter.
(https://i.imgur.com/PLv60HH.jpg)
I made a simple support bracket from stainless steel.
(https://i.imgur.com/pvv8a3g.jpg)
All done, oilers in place, apart from some missing studs! I will be making a new base but that can wait for the warmer weather. Phew!
(https://i.imgur.com/RYLCbKO.jpg)
-
Those little details just add so much! And that's a slick trick for getting the wrapping on neat and tidy. Beautiful model! :ThumbsUp:
-
I mentioned that I was going to make a new plinth and veneer it. Well, I've changed my mind as I found a new colour (Manhattan Mist) from the Plastikote range which should go well with the black/bright scheme and I've used it on the beast.
I stripped the old surface, reprimed it, and did the business with the imm masking tape. Now its dried off a bit I conclude that it is an improvement on the white plinth! Well pleased. The thing is now in bits being touched up, polished, and gaskets fitted in anticipation of running on compressed air.
(https://i.imgur.com/3ZLenQj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BgxUbR9.jpg)
-
That does give a great stone look! Excellent result.
-
That looks rather convincing as a Masonry Foundation :praise2:
Still :popcorn: :cheers:
Per
-
That looks great! How'd you get that wonderful speckly look? I love it!
Kim
-
That looks great! How'd you get that wonderful speckly look? I love it!
Kim
Thats how the paint sprays out of the can. Here in the US the nearest equivalent is the Krylon Stone line. I used a different shade on a base once. Wild stuff, larger particle size and varying colors of pigment in one spray can.
-
That certainly looks the part! Quite a difference.
-
Finish Painting the Beast!
The machine was looking a bit the worse for wear after a year of handling, so today I repainted the thing!
I have a Kite mini spray gun fitted with a 0.4mm nozzle. Run at about 50 psi, 66/33/25 paint/hardener/thinners 2k mix. Airbrushes were designed for inks and thin lacquers and do not deliver (IMV) a thick enough mix to achieve good results. This paint touch dries in about 20 minutes!
(https://i.imgur.com/8rUiKnk.jpg)
I'll leave this lot for a couple of days to harden off completely before I remove the paint from the odd shiny bits! The paint job has certainly refreshed the beast!
(https://i.imgur.com/XWhwYmF.jpg)
-
Stuart Major Beam Completed!
First trial run after final assembly today. I'll do a proper video production tomorrow as it's going on ebay very soon at a Buy it Now price.
Anyone like to guess what that price will be????
(https://i.imgur.com/rg8rr6J.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwAZpKgjBt8
-
Anyone like to guess what that price will be????
More than I would be willing to pay :lolb:
Jo
-
Post deleted
-
Great detail and a smooth slow runner. Outstanding work loco.. :Love:
:cheers:
Don
P. S. I really don’t think Jo meant to insult your work as she knows the price of these castings. No one here are tolerant of members being insulted or derated in any way especially Jo.
-
Great detail and a smooth slow runner. Outstanding work loco.. :Love:
:cheers:
Don
P. S. I really don’t think Jo meant to insult your work as she knows the price of these castings. No one here are tolerant of members being insulted or derated in any way especially Jo.
Thanks Don, I have deleted my post.
-
I think you could ask more for it if it were also shown running on at least air if not steam, the electric is a *nice feature for display but buyers will won't to know it will work as Mr Stuart intended.
Price wise it's what someone will pay on the day. You can always start high and adjust the price if no takers.
Like Jo I would not really want it as we both get our enjoyment from making (or fondling) them but there are collectors out there that will be interested in a completed engine
*Also not sure if it is the music or the wine of the electric motor I can hear, that would put me off a bit, would rather have a slow chuff, chuff, chuff from the exhaust which would be all you would get from a full compressor tank.
-
I think you could ask more for it if it were also shown running on at least air if not steam, the electric is a *nice feature for display but buyers will won't to know it will work as Mr Stuart intended.
SNIP
Thanks for the input Jason. Steam is too messy but I'll connect the air!
Most helpful.
John
-
:ThumbsUp: even if you did not put the price up for an air running engine I'm sure you will get more interest from collectors.
After all who would want to buy a second hand car if you only saw it being turned over by the starter motor :(
-
To expand on my previous comment: It is worth what ever you can get someone to pay for it. Rule of thumb is a finished model is worth more than the bare castings but this is not always true for some early models.
Like Jason, I value a set of castings higher than a finished model. To me a finished model is only an ornament. I normally will not provide storage space for someone else's model - the one exception to this is the original Edgar Westbury model Heinrici I am the custodian of.
I still think it is sad having to sell ones models :'(
Jo
-
I concur with Jo - very sad, wether it's having to or wanting to sell.
Had I been good enough to make a model of that standard, or to any standard really, I would want to keep it, to enjoy looking at it in the future (and for visitors to hopefully admire it too) as a mark to the standard I had reached at that time and to think - I made that.
Each to their own,
Chris
-
I didn’t realize it until recently, but there is quite a large amount of people who want the engines, but have no interest in building them. I have seen some quite ropey looking engines fetch good money - so one of this standard should fetch a very good price - especially if you can be patient and wait for the right person.
I joined another forum, which was a waste of my time as it turns out, because it turned out to be wholly populated by people who own and run these engines, but do not make them. So there’s a market out there.
-
Lovely runner!
The last one of those that I saw sell over here in Canada went for just under $3500.00 Canadian. It ran on air or steam, and I saw it on steam a couple of times. Very smooth and has been mentioned, the sound was just wonderful.
-
Thank you for your varied and interesting opinions. I don't think it sad that I sell my models: I have another life and the sale of my many models has enhanced and improved my 17 years of retirement - especially outside of the workshop!
No, I don't think is sad to sell my models: the joy is in being able to build them to such a standard that people who can't, want to buy them. For example, the guy who paid £7995 last year for my Stirling Single put it on his side board to just admire it, as did the guy who bought the Stuart Sirius, just like the man who bought the Stuart Beam Diorama and the D10, plus many more...
-
It's upto the individual in the end.
I've built a few on commission and although a couple I would have liked to keep I was OK with letting them go. It is certainly a way of financing other projects as what you get from the sale of one engine will probably pay for two or three more that could be keepers or sold on again. I don't think many of us would want to make a living out of it but it's one source of pocket money for materials and tools.
The big advantage of selling your models is you don't have to find somewhere to store them all or worry about the dust :)
-
Thank you for your varied and interesting opinions. For example, the guy who paid £7995 last year for my Stirling Single put it on his side board to just admire it, as did the guy who bought the Stuart Sirius, just like the man who bought the Stuart Beam Diorama and the D10, plus many more...
I don’t think it’s sad either. It’s actually rather pleasing to know that there are people who will pay good money just to admire the engine AND the workmanship that went into it. I have seen some of those folks positively gush over acquiring a well made engine.
-
The sale price will likely get you at least 1 pound per hour of work, but the enjoyment of the build is what counts.
-
I don't think it sad that I sell my models: I have another life and the sale of my many models has enhanced and improved my 17 years of retirement - especially outside of the workshop!
We all need to have a life beyond making models :ThumbsUp:
I know of a few people who converted their models into cash to fund "this or that" and after they left this world their children had none of their father's completed models to remember him by :( Some have spent years trying to get "at least one" back and paid stupid money to achieve it :toilet_claw:
Jo
-
On the other hand the relatives won't be left with the problem of disposing of things they have no knowledge of and quite possibly no interest in. ;)
-
The main problem is normally clearing the workshop and all the "come-in-handies" ::)
Jo
-
We all need to have a life beyond making models :ThumbsUp:
I know of a few people who converted their models into cash to fund "this or that" and after they left this world their children had none of their father's completed models to remember him by :( Some have spent years trying to get "at least one" back and paid stupid money to achieve it :toilet_claw:
Jo
I lost my only son to teenage suicide 32 years ago next month, so no heritage problem there, and my partner Jan's grandaughters aren't into model engineering, so out they go! (the models I mean!)
PS. The 99% finished Britannia is still on the sideboard and it will pay for my wake and then some! :whoohoo:
-
My Father only left one model, a wooden one of a farm cart, or hay wain or similar, exhibition quality - his first retirement project. I would have treasured it, but the removal men saw to it that no-one would ever treasure it.
Not the first one of his models to go that way either. In a PoW camp in WW2 he made a model of his first ship, was in a glass case as I remembered it. He managed to look after it all through a forced march through Germany at the war's end with no damage and then for years after. It lasted until he moved house in 1976.......
Chris
-
Stop Press! I'm keeping the Beast!
SWMBO found me a place for it in my study by moving the printer off the bookcase and onto my desk.
(https://i.imgur.com/Gsj2u0u.jpg)
My workshop is looking quite bare now!
(https://i.imgur.com/0F97wSe.jpg)
-
That's grand! Satisfying to hold onto such an engine, and admire it for a while. You can sell it any time you like if you change your mind, but nice to hold it for a while and enjoy it.
-
I've been off the air for a while with a serious vision problem (Wet AMD) which developed when we were caravanning recently in Spain, where I had to stay for two months while they looked after me. After three injections in my right eyeball I'm home now and getting used to the wavy lines in my vision, and I can see to use my machines!
I've been in the workshop getting my Stuart Major Beam to run on compressed air. I machined a 5mm wide keyway in the crankshaft, filed keyways in the flywheels, fitted gaskets everywhere, etc without experiencing serious vision problems, and it is all looking good.
Pictures soon...
John
-
Wow, John, sorry to hear about your eye situation :(
Sound like they've got you fixed up and seeing well and that's good! Hopefully, it won't flair up again.
Looking forward to the pictures!
Kim
-
Commiserations John - that must have been a nasty shock :o
I hope that you had a good Insurance too and that you not will get any relapses later in Life.
Best wishes
Per
-
Very sorry to hear that - sounds like you're on the mend though - hopefully working in the shop provides therapy during recovery! All the best.
-
Thanks for the kind words guys. My eyesight won't get any better, the treatment maintains the status quo. However, I'm still having fun!
The Beast is now running on compressed air. :whoohoo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fIxShZSxKs
#
-
That's running great! Thanks for posing the video. :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
-
That is a great runner :praise2:
Those small improvements are something you can take your time with, and just enjoy making them too :cheers:
Per
-
That is running great! As for the eye, I know how you feel as I get a shot about every 5 weeks. As you say, it will never get better. The shot is just for maintenance. I no longer do any machining, but I am glad you are able to. :DrinkPint:
-
Oh my, that is one pretty beast!!
-
Beauty! Much better than with the belt.
-
Wonderful - super smooth!
-
Jan and I agreed that after all this medical trouble and strife we need a good holiday, so the beast went on ebay UK last Friday night, hopefully to pay for it. There is a stiff reserve, and it ends on Monday night. It is doing quite well so far, the current high bidder is in the USA!
We shall see what we shall see... :shrug: :cheers:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195218886998
-
Good luck - there are some serious collectors stateside who will pay good money for a good engine - these are folks who love a steam engine but don't want to restore, refurb or build it - and this is prime machinery so you stand a very good chance. You've earned a holiday for sure!
-
I see that you sold it - hope you are happy with the price and you both will enjoy the holliday :cheers:
Best wishes
Per
-
I see that you sold it - hope you are happy with the price and you both will enjoy the holliday :cheers:
Best wishes
Per
Shorter than planned as it sold for less than expected. Sold to a guy in Switzerland. The USA bidder wanted to go higher but there was insufficient time left to bid after the reserve of £3k was reached. However, I only paid £300 for the castings... :Love: