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Here's a video I made at the Berlin Technology Museum 10 years ago. This paddle engine is a compound, but it seems to have a lot in common with the Diesbar.
The paddlewheel parts that I had laser cut by FabWorks.com just arrived - they look great! The edges were all deburred, everything is nice and smooth. Checked the holes that will be threaded, tap goes right in so I don't need to redrill them. Accuracy looks quite good.Here is a picture of the parts: two outer rims, 20 spokes/paddle-holders, and 10 links for the feathering mechanism. I've already started on the hubs (see previous post) and will make up the two sets of struts that act like bicycle spokes and hold the two sides in alignment, and will re-use the paddles from the printed version. Yes, there are a couple size holes in the parts - some are for screws, some are pivot points.First step will be to make up a bending guide from a wood block - the spokes get curved slightly along the long straight section, and a tighter bend out near where they flare out and curve, so the three holes in a row are vertical where they cross the rim. Um, thats the second step, I need to tap the holes out at the end of the spokes first. The bends are shallow so no issues with cracking. With all the spokes tapped and bent, I can start running in the screws to hold them together, and measure for the hole spacing from the center of the hubs and get the hubs drilled/tapped to attach the spokes. Once that is assembled, I'll measure for the other struts I need to make, they are simple round rods with flanges attached on the ends. Ought to have the wheel together in a few days.
Here's a video I made at the Berlin Technology Museum 10 years ago. This paddle engine is a compound, but it seems to have a lot in common with the Diesbar.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSRfnHVcVwY
Quote from: crueby on July 09, 2026, 07:14:29 pmThe paddlewheel parts that I had laser cut by FabWorks.com just arrived - they look great! The edges were all deburred, everything is nice and smooth. Checked the holes that will be threaded, tap goes right in so I don't need to redrill them. Accuracy looks quite good.Here is a picture of the parts: two outer rims, 20 spokes/paddle-holders, and 10 links for the feathering mechanism. I've already started on the hubs (see previous post) and will make up the two sets of struts that act like bicycle spokes and hold the two sides in alignment, and will re-use the paddles from the printed version. Yes, there are a couple size holes in the parts - some are for screws, some are pivot points.First step will be to make up a bending guide from a wood block - the spokes get curved slightly along the long straight section, and a tighter bend out near where they flare out and curve, so the three holes in a row are vertical where they cross the rim. Um, thats the second step, I need to tap the holes out at the end of the spokes first. The bends are shallow so no issues with cracking. With all the spokes tapped and bent, I can start running in the screws to hold them together, and measure for the hole spacing from the center of the hubs and get the hubs drilled/tapped to attach the spokes. Once that is assembled, I'll measure for the other struts I need to make, they are simple round rods with flanges attached on the ends. Ought to have the wheel together in a few days.I'm trying to figure the diamter of rims?
That's a fair size and looks like a bit of a puzzle to the outside observer with all the different holes everywhere!
They look great, so much better SUGGESTION: make a ferris wheel out the the old set, obvioulsy. steam operated!
Beautiful!
That's taking shape Chris! The metal wheel's looking great. I was confused earlier this week when one of my shop gnomes was on the phone with "someone" asking about what channels on elfsat TV are available and how to aim a brass dish....sounded like a pain in the azimuth...