B.Hick & Son oscillating engine

[Sanjay F]

Another item to add to Jason's list -  even if you rough out an undersize slot and then finish it by running round the periphery, the cutter will tend to pull sideways at the ends because it is cutting a much greater width. For slots, it is better to use a 2-fluted slot drill rather than a 3 or 4-fluted end mill, because with only two flutes, while it is cutting across the end, it cannot be cutting the side.

Got it thanks, all these things I never considered!! 

[Sanjay F]

I decided to spend my lunchtime getting dirty by lapping a couple of the valve faces. I used 280, 600 and 1200 grit and expected a mirror shiny finish but they ended up with a satin finish, they feel very smooth so I guess the jobs a good'un.

I made a start on the next part of the valve assembly and so far so good despite my every effort to mess it up

[Sanjay F]

Valve plate is now completed and next part is the valve body. I'm glad I read ahead as this part needs the valve plate fixing to it first then then holes drilled through to get the alignment correct......phew!

[Sanjay F]

Made a start on the valve body; trying to work out the machining sequence before chopping off the spigots either end so decided to call it a day to get some thinking time 

[Jasonb]

Screw holes in the larger face then saw off the big one first as you will need to hold it by the small one to face and cut the recess. Hopefully it is larger than 1/4" so the spring hole can be drilled at the same setting.

Small end can be milled after sawing most off.

[Sanjay F]

Both spigots are still oversize, just cleaned up; the smaller one is approx. .300" and the larger .400".

I was thinking the same and also once the recess is made and the centre drilled through, whilst held by the smaller end I should/could attach the valve plate in its position then drill through it to meet the horizontal steam passages.

Only then flip it over saw off the small spigot and bring the body to length......

[Jasonb]

 

[Sanjay F]

The valve body is completed; I super glued the the valve plate onto the body to get the steam passage alignment and drilled through and they broke through at the correct spot. The inlet/outlet and base mounting have been tapped 10BA.

I might spend a bit time making a pair of flanges to fit onto them before moving on the remaining parts

[Sanjay F]

Made 2 flanges for the inlet and outlet, interchangeable being an oscillator I guess!

Next up the small base to elevate the valve block

[Sanjay F]

And the last 2 components for the valve body are now complete, the little mounting plate and the push fit end cap. Still a couple of bits to go; there's the bolt which goes all the way through the valve parts and keeps them together along with a little washer which is for the spring.......

I need to get some 10BA CSK screws as well to hold the valve body to its mounting plate 

[Michael S.]

A lot of complicated parts. But it looks good. 

Michael

[Sanjay F]

Going way back in this build I realised that having slots in the standards to align the crankshaft bearings was a good idea EXCEPT using the same bolts to position the bearings and tighten them wasn't going to work...... 

So I decided to go back to the suggestion of using wedges to position the bearings as was done on the actual engines, that way I could apply as much or as little pressure on the bearings themselves.  I made a 3/32" length of wedge using a minute 45 deg angled end mill and the used a miniature dovetail cutter to cut the angles in the risers on the standards.

Sadly I got a bit over ambitious with the tiny dovetail cutter and it snapped, I think I need a wider diameter one, so it can cut further in

[crueby]

A triangular  needle file can also be handy for thoes pieces, easy to fine tune the fit. On the flintlock rifles I made, the underbarrel lugs and sights were fitted that way, vertical  saw cuts to remove the bulk of the dovetail, then the triangular  file used to do the undercuts.

[Sanjay F]

A triangular  needle file can also be handy for thoes pieces, easy to fine tune the fit. On the flintlock rifles I made, the underbarrel lugs and sights were fitted that way, vertical  saw cuts to remove the bulk of the dovetail, then the triangular  file used to do the undercuts.

I tried a bit of that and I found I was applying too much downward pressure rather than lateral pressure, filing technique failure! Maybe I should have tried the vertical cuts first?

'On the flintlock rifles I made' - just drop that into the conversation, that's something a bit different, wow!   

[crueby]

A triangular  needle file can also be handy for thoes pieces, easy to fine tune the fit. On the flintlock rifles I made, the underbarrel lugs and sights were fitted that way, vertical  saw cuts to remove the bulk of the dovetail, then the triangular  file used to do the undercuts.

I tried a bit of that and I found I was applying too much downward pressure rather than lateral pressure, filing technique failure! Maybe I should have tried the vertical cuts first?

'On the flintlock rifles I made' - just drop that into the conversation, that's something a bit different, wow!   

Fun side projects. Couple Pennsylvania  long rifles, a Jaeger rifle, a Baker, and a cased pair of dueling pistols. All flintlocks, purchased the barrels and locks, plus castings for other parts, did the stocks from scratch. Fun to inlet a 42 inch octagonal swamped (wide at breach, narrows then swells back out at muzzle) barrel into curly maple with hand tools!
The duelers - octagon to round barrels and locks were purchased, rest and case were made from scratch: