Cretors #1 Horizontal Steam Engine Build

[rstreift]

The steam passage is cut.  When I was a bit younger, I had a lathe that used a lantern post.  The 3/8” boring bar is a holdover from those days and comes in handy.  One of these days I may toss the holder and use it from a #2 QC holder.
S333-A-GovernorBody-10.jpg

Moving back to the mill, the body is indicated in for the steam inlet.  inlet threads and steam passage are done. 
S333-A-GovernorBody-11.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-12.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-13.jpg

I need to remark this for the length of the body to have a reference when turning for the drive colmun clearance and bearing surface.  Then back to the lathe and indicated it in using the tap hole.  If I did this correctly, I’ll find the threads.
S333-A-GovernorBody-14.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-15.jpg

[rstreift]

This is where I went wonky.  Being clever, I set the cross-slide at the edge of the tap hole.  I know the diameter of the tap hole and radius dimension of the drive column.  All I needed to do was subtract the tap hole radius from the drive column radius and I’ll be at the correct clearance.  Execution was a bit different.  I didn’t actually use the calculated distance and fixated on the print’s drive column dimension.  By the time I realized this, I’d turned off about a tenth of an inch to much.  Ouch!!!   It's now late afternoon and I decide to stop and ponder this.  I was having so much fun, no pictures were taken. 😊
The next day it didn’t look to bad.  There is still plenty of bearing surface for the pinion gear’s shaft.  The unnamed casting supplied for the pinion shaft cap was about twice as thick as the finished piece.  I decided to make the cap as thick as possible to add mass/strength to the pinion shaft area.
Putting is back on the mill for the pinion cap threaded holes and carve out the hole for the pinion gear.
S333-A-GovernorBody-16.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-17.jpg
S333-A-GovernorBody-18.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-19.jpg
The pinion cap is squared off and clearance holes drilled.  I cut out two sets of shims that would be removed as the bearing surfaces wear, unlikely that will ever happen but I do it anyway.  The body and cap are assembled and the pinion hole is drilled and reamed.  The dimensions for the pinion clearance are a bit suspect and the cap clearance will be different; I’m going to wing it and fit the pinion.
S333-A-GovernorBody-20.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-21.jpg

With the pinion fitted in the body, the cap is next.  The drawing has the pinion exposed and since I’m using the entire possible thickness, the pinion will be enclosed.
S333-A-GovernorBody-22.jpg, S333-A-GovernorBody-23.jpg

[rstreift]

Once the body and cap were assembled, I deviated again and cut the curve on the cap to match the body.  The print has the cap as a rectangle.
Given the changes I made to the governor body and cap, it seemed pointless to reduce the body to the size in the drawing.  It did need cleaning up as I cranked the lathe chuck jaws directly on the body.  A couple of thousandths off the sides took care of the chuck jaw marks.
That change begat another change, the pinion shaft is a bit short.  I cut a longer one and mounted the shaft/gear/washers in the body to measure just where the gear needs to be on the shaft.  Then a bit of retaining compound to fix it in place.
S333-A-GovernorBody-24.jpg, S333-M-PinionShaftPulley-2.jpg

[rstreift]

Getting error messages about allocation of memory, doesn't work with only 2 pics <2 megs each.  Testing with plain text.

[rstreift]

Didn't work with 1 pic. 

Error is:
Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 94371840 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 16128 bytes) in /home/modeleng/public_html/Sources/Subs-Graphics.php on line 422

Anyone hit this and what did you do to avoid it?

[rstreift]

Found the message noting the limit in pic size.  resized

The Union Nut, #S333-P
It’s just a nut.  A bit of brass hex stock with two bores to capture the nipple, or the other way around as the nipple really captures the nut.  After parting, the nut is flipped and mounted in a collet and the edge rounded. 
S333-P-UnionNut-1.jpg, S333-P-UnionNut-2.jpg
I found a message stating the size needs to be < 500 Kb.  Resized and trying again.  If this works, I appears I've been exceeding the size for a year or 2.

The Union Nipple, #S333-R
The union nipple is a cylinder with a flange.  It will be soldered to the governor body with the union nut captured.
S333-P-UnionNipple-1.jpg

The Union Female, #S333-Rx
The union female is not a part in the drawings; hence it is “Rx”.  Without it, the union is only 2/3rds complete.  It is threaded to the union nut so it is also 5/8-24.  The pipe thread is 1/8 NPT. 
S333-Rx-UnionFemale.jpg

[rstreift]

ok, that worked    On to the flyballs.

The Fly Balls, #S333-K
The fly balls’ casting was supplied with both balls together.  The casting had a slight shift between the cope and drag, but pretty good.  I filed off a few spots and indicated it in the lathe chuck.  Using a ball turner I made about 2002 (after I made an over-complicated gear driven yoke type in 2001) to make the ball handles for a Quorn, it was set up and turned the first on.  BTW, I still have the .pdf of the write-up, it is entertaining in the sense that it’s a fine example of over-engineering a simple device.  Let me know if you want to gander at it.
I learnt in the past that a small error can create fine footballs, so I indicated the QC toolpost to be in alignment with the cross-slide.  Cutting bit aligned on the y axis so the sweep stays directly on the y axis.  While it does not matter much here, the balls measured within a thousandth in any direction.
S333-K-FlyBall-1.jpg, S333-K-FlyBall-3.jpg

Each ball needs to be threaded and counter bored for the ball arms.  Not to forget the two scores, those were turned.  After that was completed, the nub was turned and the ball parted off. 
S333-K-FlyBall-4.jpg, S333-K-FlyBall-5.jpg

The second one was the same except I pulled the casting out of the chuck to have room for the nub and parting.
S333-K-FlyBall-6.jpg, S333-K-FlyBall-7.jpg

Got to have the glamor shots.  If you can’t flaunt the brass balls, why have them, eh?   
S333-K-FlyBall-9.jpg, S333-K-FlyBall-10.jpg

[rstreift]

The Ball Arms, #S333-L

The ball arms screw into the brass balls and seemed like a logical next part.  These are customer supplied brass stock with a threaded turned shaft ending in a flat with two holes.  The threaded shaft part was checked with the brass balls to just fit into the ball’s counter bore.  Then it was mounted in a 5c square block for the flat milling.
S333-L-BallArm-1.jpg, S333-L-BallArm-2.jpg

The block is rotated 90 degrees and the flat is spotted, drilled, and reamed.  The rounded feature could have been on a rotary table, but I find rotating it by hand faster and just as good.  In this case, the pivot is a rod turned to the correctly fitting diameter and loctite’d to a piece of scrap with a drilled hole.  The handle is scrap with a tapped hole to give me a bit more control while rotating the part.
S333-L-BallArm-3.jpg, S333-L-BallArm-4.jpg

Both arms are mounted back to the 5c block parallel to its side for the 45-degree hole to which there will be small rods with a ball end inserted.
S333-L-BallArm-5.jpg

[rstreift]

The block is set in the vise at a 45-degree angle with an angle plate.  It is then spotted/drilled and finished with a flat ground drill.
S333-L-BallArm-6.jpg, S333-L-BallArm-7.jpg

The little rods with a ball end are turned and parted off.
S333-L-BallArm-8.jpg, S333-L-BallArm-9.jpg

The ball turner setup on a Heavy Ten looks a bit large for the lathe, partially due to the QC tool post.  I have BXA QC tool posts on this lathe and the 1440 lathe so I can use the same tools on both with the same height adjustment.  I modified the Phase II by recessing the surface in the dovetail so that the adjustment on the tool holders is the same on both lathes. The 1440 has an Aloris while the Heavy Ten has a Phase II.
S333-L-BallArm-10.jpg

[Michael S.]

That looks great 👍.

You have a lot of useful tools!

Michael

[Dave Otto]

Very nice work, and great job documenting all your setups. I really like your ball turner, that one has been on my list for a while now.

Dave

[vtsteam]

Great work and photos of it.  I'm curious about the ball turner's ground tool shape and the toolholder -- how it holds the tool....(sorry about the redundencies).

[rstreift]

ahh, those tools have been useful.  One just has to have a place to put them when they are not being used. 

The ball turner was built when building a Quorn Tool and Cutter Grinder.  The first version was geared because I thought that would advantageous.  When using it, I discovered it was to big to cut the one piece ball handles.  looking at the picture, one can see the yoke takes space on either side of the ball along the spindle axis.
I took pics of the bit (that was over 20 years ago) and attached them.  That geometry worked and I've found a radiused tip has been better for some jobs.

Appreciate the comments and any suggestions as how to improve the setups are welcome.

[rstreift]

The Gove Yoke, #S333-C
This casting is reasonably nice.  I indicated on the end and faced the end and drilled a center.  Then indicated in the chuck side of the casting while supported with a center.  The second pic is a bit staged as I forgot to snap a pic. The top part of the casting is turned to mount in a 5c collet. 
S333-C-GoveYoke-1.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-2.jpg

Once mounted in the 5c, it is faced to length, which is measured from the layout lines.  The hole for the valve stem is spotted and drilled.
S333-C-GoveYoke-3.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-4.jpg

Threads for the drive column are chased and the drive column is used as a thread gage.  The next set of features will be on the mill and the part is mounted in a 5c block. 
S333-C-GoveYoke-5.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-8.jpg

[rstreift]

The pivot holes for the ball arms are spotted/drilled/tapped/reamed.
S333-C-GoveYoke-10.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-11.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-12.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-13.jpg

The block is flipped 90-degrees and the ball arms’ pockets are milled. They will be filed to square edges.
S333-C-GoveYoke-16.jpg

A little math is needed to determine the correct diameter rod to provide the angle for the sides.  A bit of silicone grease is used to stick the rod in place.  Both sides are then milled.
S333-C-GoveYoke-17.jpg, S333-C-GoveYoke-18.jpg