Chris's Diesbar Engine Build

[cnr6400]

  Those look like they'll give the mechanism a nice sproing factor! Has Stu Pervisor rated the spring rate yet? Gotta fill the paperwork out Stu.... 

[crueby]

The shop elves launched Stu Pervisor with the springs. He's out in the back yard somewhere, or in the next yard running from the dog...

Got the springs painted and re-installed just now:

[crueby]

Made up the yokes to attach the rods to the springs, and made up the rods themselves:

That completes these assemblies, so on to the engine they go!

Next up are the manual valve movement levers, which link to the posts on the link plates and project out the front of the engine.
Getting close to being able to time the valves and get some movement on compressed air. Still need to make up the piping/valves at the outer ends of the cylinder trunnions to be able to do that. Once that is done and running, I will make up the throttle control levers/brackets, the condenser water inlet piping, and finally the pumps that go on the end of the frame.

[cnr6400]

 

[crueby]

this mornings fun was to make the manual valve lever and link. The outlines were shaped in the mill vise, using a couple drills to align the two levers to machine them both at once:

Here they are assembled onto the engine

The elves are practicing their reversing skills.   

I've done a very rough timing on the eccentric stop blocks, so once the inlet pipes are made and fitted, the final timing work can start. The steam chest covers hold the valve rods in their sides, so the usual method of removing the cover to visually center the valves is not possible. So, I'll do it by applying low pressure air, and rotating the crankshaft by hand to hear when the valves open/close with the drain valves all open.
So, next step will be to get started on the fittings to attach the pipes/valves to the ends of the engine! Since the cylinders rotate, those fittings will need to have a rotating seal with o rings.

[cnr6400]

    Pull ups on levers in the engine room - what could possibly go wrong?...."Uh Bob, why's the engine starting at full speed? That sounded like mooring lines snapping off...."   

It's looking great Chris!

[Michael S.]

You’ve quickly made two levers again. Well done.
Things could get started soon.

Michael 🍻

[crueby]

Thanks guys!
This morning I got started on the pipes/valves for the inlets on either end of the engine. For elbow fittings, I took some off the shelf barbed tube fittings, and turned the barbs off each leg:

A shallow groove was turned in for some o rings - these elbows did not leave a lot of thickness to the walls, but enough to hold the rings in place. Once installed, they only have to hold against turning forces, they will not slide like piston rings, so the shallow grooves are working well.

After the above picture, the legs were shortened down past the rings. Then turned up some flanges that slip into the holes in the trunnions on the cylinders, and are a close fit on the rings - I can work the rings into place, and still turn the elbows. In use, the flanges will rotate with the cylinders, and the elbows will be held still.

Here is one set in place on the engine. On the left end of the engine, the flange will also hold the oil/bilge pump rocker.

For valves, I found some nice little shutoff valves about the right size. I bored out the end tube to fit over the elbow leg. The handle has been removed, I'll be replacing the long handles the valves came with, with shorter levers that will connect into the controls.

These valves came with 1/8" tapered pipe threads, which I do not have taps/dies for. But, I found that a M10x1 die goes about halfway onto the threaded section by hand, and with a wrench I could re-thread it to a straight M10x1 thread! Very handy!

With the rethreaded posts, I can make up brackets to hold the valves and elbows in position against the turning forces of the engine and also the handle on the valve. That will be next.
 

[cnr6400]

  Looking great Chris!

Did you remove 99 of those Feldon Barbs from the elbows?  (obscure Get Smart actress reference)   

[crueby]

Looking great Chris!

Did you remove 99 of those Feldon Barbs from the elbows?  (obscure Get Smart actress reference) 

Ah, the old Get Smart reference trick, eh?

[Kim]

Those elbows with the rotating joint are pretty cool! 

Kim

[crueby]

Those elbows with the rotating joint are pretty cool! 

Kim

Thanks Kim!  I'll find out in a day or two if they work... SHOULD...

[crueby]

This morning I called in the team of pipe mis-fitters to help me make up the steam inlet pipes. They go up from each valve, and around the back to a push-to-connect tee fitting.

Then I made up the 'casting kit' for the supports to hold the valves in position from the lower frame:

Next I'll start shaping those pieces and get them soldered together...

[cnr6400]

 

[crueby]

This morning I made up two compression nuts to seal (with o-rings) the joinst between the elbows and the valves. Here is one installed:

This allows the assembly to be taken apart if need be, and allows the valve to be slid up and down for fine adjustment. The brackets to hold the valves in place will go just above these nuts.
Speaking of, got a good start on the brackets themselves. Made up the main parts, and silver soldered the bases on to the uprights. Once cool and cleaned up, I'll drill the top ends to take the last piece, which goes around the end of the valve. The bases will screw to the wood base next to the lower frame.