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OKMO Microcosm Model M31 Vertical Steam Engine Single Cylinder
First run on live steam of this beautiful brass casted vertical steam engine. Really happy with DIY Modifications that I did and the two timber plinths. Made lots of items using my metal lathe and milling machine. The condenser pot was made using three copper plumbing items cut down on the bandsaw, turned on the lathe and drilling and tapping on the milling machine. The inline lubricator needed a complete rebuild and needed to be silver brazed back together. Not sure if the lubricator was made by Stuarts in the U.K or not, I made a new screw top for it and knurled it and put an Australian Miniature Steam Models MSM turn wheel on.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-C38v6_1s" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-C38v6_1s</a>
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 12:53:25 AM »
Thanks Dave

It's late here and my brain is not quite in gear! ;)  I'll get in front of the lathe tomorrow and look at the set up
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by Dave Otto on Today at 12:47:24 AM »
Yes, but if you use a boring bar you will set the compound at 45 and feed the tool back and forth with the compound slide, while using either the X or Z to increment into the cut. this way you are never cutting the full width of the finished face. So only a normal cutting tip is needed, small radius for a good finish. The tool if fed from the front using the cross feed or Z feed then you would need a tool or insert ground to or set at 45 degrees to the part.
I hope this makes some sense.

Dave
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 12:35:36 AM »
My diagram is terrible, but do you mean like this?

Do all boring bars have a 45 degree cutting face or will I have to get a specific one?
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by Dave Otto on Today at 12:17:59 AM »
Most times when I need to cut a chamfer, I will use a boring bar on the back side of the part and run the lathe in reverse. As long as your chuck is not threaded on, which mine is not.
Also a tool ground at a 45 can be plunged in from the front and I do do this as well, but the boring bar will give a better finish.

Dave
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Your Own Design / Re: Simple wobbler
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 06, 2025, 11:30:07 PM »
Nice bit of recycling!

Now that's what I call rusted  ;D
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 06, 2025, 11:26:06 PM »
What is the best way to cut the 45 degree angle on the tool?

On the lathe using the tool set at 45 degrees - not sure it is possible, as it can't be held in the chuck by the thin end?

OR

Maybe better using the mill with a tilted rotary table?
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 06, 2025, 09:47:25 PM »
I've gone as far as I dare.......

The cutter is a just about making contact (0.003 - 0.004" gap) and the valve is sitting lower and you can see where the lip was and metal hsa been removed. I think I'll finsh the cutter off and then move onto cutting the seat - that was nerve racking!

Thanks all, marvellous help as usual  :D
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Your Own Design / Re: Simple wobbler
« Last post by PaulR on February 06, 2025, 09:18:51 PM »
Still waiting for the right compressor fitting to arrive (don't ask) I decided to find something to make a flywheel. One of my other interests is archaeology and almost a year ago to the day I unearthed a large tapered plug while excavating the site of a steam-powered well pump. Today I decided to chop it up and make a flywheel our of one end - it looks like it has a steel piece in the middle probably where the handle was attached, the other end has a badly corroded cast iron part. After some hacksawing I ended up with a lump that I could hold in the three jaw despite the slight taper. What I didn't bank on was how hard the corrosion products were - it took me an hour and forty minutes of facing cuts of a few thou because the corrosion flattened the HSS tool like it was putty! I must have reground about 1/4" off the tool by the end.

Just as I removed the last bit of corrosion a hole appeared at centre so I guess I've reached the steel bit. Hopefully the other side will be much easier. I plan to either leave the steel where it is or plug the hole  with brass if it comes free. Fingers crossed I'll have a usable flywheel by the time the compressor fitting arrives.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 06, 2025, 08:04:13 PM »
Just for a final sanity check look at the 2 pictures below, the ruler touches the side on port on the inlet and has a clear gap on the exhaust.....let's do some gentle milling
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