Rusty restoration requiring reverse

[Sanjay F]

I have one engine where I'm waiting for the paint to dry, another where I'm waiting for the JB Weld to dry so need something to keep me occupied!

I've had this very rusty vertical engine sat on the shelf for quite a while and I think it's time to give it some attention and see if it can brought back to life. I sat it next to a Stuart 10v and a ruler so you can get some idea of its size. I've also taken a video of it before starting on it which makes a change.

As you can see it's VERY rusty, but turns over by hand, the bearings are worn and will need replacing and at some point in its life it must have had a reversing lever.

My plan is to strip it down, clean it up, rebuild it until it hopefully runs then I'm going to try and make the necessary parts for the reversing lever mechanism. I'd like to base it on the Stuart type mechanism but can't work out which Stuart vertical model it's nearest to in terms of size so I can check out the drawings - anyone out there have any idea?

This should keep me out of trouble for a while ..........................

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kX57icIGjCE

EDIT: I think it's closest to either a Stuart No.4 or No.7 ???

[Roger B]

That does look to have had a hard life    I'm sure you can work your magic on it   

[Jasonb]

Give us some numbers like bore and stroke then it will be easier to decide on what Stuart it is close too, probably a No 7 or No4. Though it would not be hard to scale up or down other engines reversing gear.

End float on the crank is not really bearing wear, just needs the flywheel moving up against the bearing to take out the movement.

I say give it some air as it is, will most likely run, just hold the expansion link over to one side.

[Sanjay F]

I managed to adjust the port distances so they were equal, gave it some air and it spun over and stopped like the timing is out but everything is way too rusted to adjust.

I managed to strip the whole thing down after a good soak in Liquid Wrench and making witness marks on everything as I go. I only sheared off 2 bolts in the process, these were from the bottom cylinder cover; I drilled them out and re-tapped them. So far so good, and everything is having an overnight bath in rust remover so let's see what things look like in the morning.......

I included some pictures, I think the bore is 1.062" or 1 1/16" (strange size?)

and the stroke must be 1.5" given the measurement I have shown is 0.75" (not a good picture as the calipers are off centre) - is that right?

[Jasonb]

That's right 1 1/2" stroke. either No7 or 4 would do as you have the stroke of the No4 and close to the bore of a No7

[Sanjay F]

Bang in the middle, I guess it'll be a case of what's visually better!  Thanks Jason 

[Jasonb]

If you imagined the mirror image of this No4, I wonder if it would be possible to mak euse of that hole in the top of the left hand standard to take a stud for the linkage to pivot on?

[Sanjay F]

That's funny, I was thinking about that hole and wondering if it had been some part of the reverse mechanism in the dim and distant past? I guess if it could be used, it would also save on having to make a bracket and drill into the valve chest.

I need to get hold of the dimensions in order to see how everything fits together and where, but let's see if I can get the engine going...................rust soup, anybody? 

[Sanjay F]

It never ceases to amaze me how much dirt and grime is on these old engines and what they look like after a good clean. This is just an initial clean to get the engine operational and I'll do a deep clean later.

I reassembled the engine and set the timing on one of the eccentrics and locked the expansion link in place with a highly sophisticated piece of twisted wire! 

She's a runner .........well in one direction anyway!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ttMr6yIncWI

I'm not sure how to set the 2nd set eccentric, presumably I move the link across and rotate the flywheel the opposite way and set the timing as normal?

[Dave Otto]

 

[Sanjay F]

Finished for the day with the engine running in the opposite direction using my trusty piece of wire to hold the expansion link in place.

So that means I can now look at how to make and attach a reverse mechanism with lever 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/IStkcEkiVVE

[Admiral_dk]

Amazing how much difference it makes by just cleaning it all 

Per     

[Roger B]

Nicely cleaned up    How bad were the bearings or were they just not tightened down?

[Sanjay F]

I haven't tried to tighten them down too much yet. If they are still loose after I've made the reverse mechanism and I've done a proper clean up, I'll, make a new set.........no point stripping it all back this far without fixing everything

One thing I did notice was some copper shim fell out of the flywheel boss so that'll need looking at; there's definitely some wobble on the flywheel without it

[Sanjay F]

I have a drawing for the reversing mechanism and wanted to dive in but am lacking the stock required, so that's on order  I managed to find a suitable piece to make a start on the connecting lever.

Question

I seem to spend a lot of time rubbing down workpieces with emery to get a decent finish, what can I do to improve the intial cut finish? I have relatively new cutters and running about 850rpm; diameter 10mm, 4 flute and I only did 2 passes. Should I be using a small cutter, more passes at a higher speed?