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Engine Ancillaries / Re: Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver
« Last post by Vixen on Today at 07:39:39 AM »
Thanks Chris

I've  already contacted Horizon Hobbies and waiting to see if they can help.

The Expert Multi is old/vintage, like pre- internet


Updates on camshaft, crankshaft, cylinder cover and blockcase etc




Cylinder Cover

Cylinder Block
Your Own Design / Re: The Le Rhone 9C
« Last post by crueby on Today at 04:09:55 AM »

While I'm talking about shows, I plan on attending the Rough and Tumble Association shown at Kinzer, Pennsylvania this August.  I should be set up in the model building and I plan on taking the four Otto & Langen models as well as the Le Rhône, so if you plan on attending, please stop by and say Hi.
Ooooh, now that is very tempting!  Just checked the dates - R&T is Wed thru Sat, Aug 17-20 this year. That luckily falls between several other weekends I have planned for submarine runs and Lombard driving runs. I'd LOVE to stop down and see your models in person, its not a bad drive from here in western NY state, and that show has been on my to-go-to list for a while. Are you planning on being there all four days?
Very true Dave!

Well, a few pictures of a few things. Not doing a blow by blow account here, because most of this is straightforward. I did run afoul of the higher load generated from form tools, and tool heights set too high, and inappropriate machining sequence on slender parts, as well as too much stickout, the combination of which made me scrap too many of my precious studs. Still, that's all worked out and I'm chunking through them.

I want to make custom studs because I want to locate the crank bearings and engine frame more closely than a regular machine screw will allow. So I am making studs with a shaft closely sized to the holes in said items (I didn't think of it at the start of the build or I would have reamed the holes to a more round size, but no matter).

I ground a form tool to radius the showing end of the studs for appearances sake.

Fairly pleased with that - I ground the radius using a small round bit in a dremel, and using a radius gauge as a template.

Anyway it works out OK, the studs for the caps are a close fit, so now I can finish machining the bearings.

Which I am doing here using a vice in a vice. I decided to copy a previous build here, and just clean up the angled faces of the bearings. I think this will look good. Here I am touching off on the casting in 3 spots to get the surface level.

Then skim over it:

A little hand blending is needed now on the castings to fettle the caps to the pillow blocks, and I also need to make studs for the pillow blocks to the base. Work in progress in the foreground.

It took a silly amount of time to figure out the studs - but hey ho, they are now coming out how I want them. I haven't documented the process because for most people it's rudimentary stuff that we've all done. I think.

Anyway, I also made a packing nut, from a piece of hex bar.

I am a big fan of the upside down threading tool approach, running the lathe in reverse and threading away from the headstock. It is very stress free.

Touching off on a sharpie mark to establish the OD:

This is a 1/2-20 thread. I tend to cheat on my single point threads and just use a nut to check how they are coming along. Since I'm not selling these parts I'm OK with that, but today, since I have a set of thread wires, I just felt like trying them - and actually they are easy to use. These ones have a little rubber device which holds the pair of wires for one side, and attaches them to the micrometer anvil, making taking the measurement a very simple job.

The maths is actually pretty straightforward. I'm not going to go into that because there are many many many sources on the net and youtube that explain it, but there is a handy dandy chart that comes with the wires to make it easy.

A simple part really, very therapeutic. It even fits the mating part.

Anyway, that's a few things I have been doing. As usual, when I write about it I wonder what took so long. Nearly finished on the bearing studs, then I just need to make some custom nuts and I can machine the crank shaft bearings. Something a bit more interesting - after that I will be onto the crankshaft I think.

Engine Ancillaries / Re: Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver
« Last post by crueby on Today at 12:22:14 AM »
Was worth a try. Have you tried contacting Horizon Hobbies support? They may have a copy of the other one.
Engine Ancillaries / Re: Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver
« Last post by Vixen on July 04, 2022, 11:24:26 PM »
Hello Chris

Thanks for looking.

I also found that one earlier; unfortunately that is a modern single cylinder on-board glow driver.  The "Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver" is vintage.


Hints, Tips & Tricks / Re: Acrylic (Perspex) display case for stationary model
« Last post by GWRdriver on July 04, 2022, 11:14:35 PM »
Excellent work!  Very neat and clean . . . and good job on the display case too. :ThumbsUp:
Engine Ancillaries / Re: Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver
« Last post by crueby on July 04, 2022, 11:12:30 PM »
Quick google search for  "Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver" instructions turned this up, think its what you want. It was on Horizon Hobbies website.

Engine Ancillaries / Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver
« Last post by Vixen on July 04, 2022, 10:23:57 PM »
I'm trying to get my Seidel ST540 five cylinder radial engine back up and running with all the original equipment.

I came fitted with an "Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver". Over the years The single page instruction leaflet has become lost.

It's a long shot, but does anyone happen to have a copy of the "Expert, Multi Cylinder Glow Driver" instruction leaflet???

Mike   :help:
Your Own Design / Re: V-TWIN--MAYBE V4
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on July 04, 2022, 09:28:46 PM »
So, here we are with both cylinders drilled, tapped, grooved for o-ring head gasket seal, and bolted into place on the crankcase. Oh my, what nasty little buggers those socket head capscrews are that hold the cylinders in place. It would have been a lot simpler if I had cut the bottom cooling fin off each cylinder to give myself some more clearance. I didn't want to give up that cooling fin, so I shortened up one end of an Allen wrench and tightened them up, about 1/4 of a turn at a time. Ah well, it's progress.

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