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From Kits/Castings / Re: Well pump as a model.
« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 11:31:00 PM »That's looking great and moving great. What are you going to mount it on after painting it?
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From Kits/Castings / Re: Well pump as a model.« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 11:31:00 PM »That's looking great and moving great. What are you going to mount it on after painting it?
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From Plans / Re: Mount Trapezium« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 11:23:03 PM »Thanks both, I started using spot drills some time ago and agree, they are much better/easier than centres drills if you don't need to use one. That's what was frustrating, I did need to use one as I turned the tie rod between the chuck and a live centre on the tailstock in a pair of homemade bushes threaded to take each end.......not the end of the world!
![]() Anyway, I think I'll invest in one of those APT spot drills, that'll get use a lot! 3
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale« Last post by crueby on Today at 11:08:09 PM »More very complex parts! Still following along...
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Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale« Last post by Vixen on Today at 10:42:16 PM »It's clutch time.
![]() The first item to make is the Lever Plate. As it's name implies, this plate fits at the rear of the rotating clutch assembly and carries the six levers used to disengage the clutch. The Lever Plate was going to require a session on the lathe, followed by at least three milling set-ups, and will involve work on three different machines. Therefore, some forethought was required regarding how to hold the stock and accurately position it for the different machining operations. I started with 100mm x 100mm x 8mm thick aluminium plate. I always prefer to use 6082 T6 (HE30) for it's machine ability and corrosion resistance. I could hold the square plate in a four-jaw for the lathe work. Then bolt the plate to a sacrificial jig plate by four accurately placed bolt holes drilled near the corners. The Lever Plate centre hole and outside profile were machined on the big lathe using a four-jaw chuck. The transferred to the mill for further machine work. The first mill opp was to machine the 12 stepped pockets for the pressure spring holder on the front face of the Lever Plate. The embryo plate was bolted to a sacrificial jig plate by the four corner screws. The work was centred using the big central hole. The work was flipped over to enable machine work on the rear face of the Lever Plate. I used a 2R x 6 OD, corner radius, bull mill to cut away the six pockets. The bull mill creates nicely radiused corners for authenticity and added corner strength. The 12 spring pockets, machined in the previous set-up, are now exposed. Next. a 4mm ball mill was used to form the space in which the six clutch operating levers will reside. Note the wider lands where the clutch operating lever hinge pins reside. The mounting holes were then drilled around the outside, before the part finished Lever Plate was parted off from the square stock using a 3mm end mill. The part finished Lever Plate was then transferred to the rotary table on my 4 axis machine for the six hinge pin holes to be drilled. The embryo plate was held in the three jaw chuck by it's outer diameter. An extra long centre drill was needed to reach in and spot the six holes, which were drilled and reamed to final size before the plate was indexed to the next position. Somehow, I have no photos of this set-up. Finally, the whole Lever Plate was given a good clean up with wet-n-dry and Scotchbrite to remove the machine marks. Much more to follow, so stay tuned Mike ![]() 5
From Plans / Re: Mount Trapezium« Last post by crueby on Today at 09:00:29 PM »Center drills have a tendency to not clear chips well, so it works best to 'peck' at the hole if you need to go deep to give a seat for the live center, go in a bit, back out to clear chips, in a bit more... The chips can pack into the narrower tip causing the tip to torque and break off. A bit of oil on it helps too.
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From Plans / Re: Mount Trapezium« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 08:48:36 PM »The best way to avoid breaking ctr drill is to not use them for anything else except where you intend to use a tailstock ctr in the hole or have another need for the 60deg hole they cut.
Treat yourself to a spot drill which can be used when you want to start a drilled hole. 3-4mm 90deg should cover most model making needs. Something like this or the carbide option is not a lot more. https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/nc-spotting-drills-m42-premium-high-speed-steel.html https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/spot-drills-altin-coated-carbide-90-120-point.html 7
Machines, Tools and Fixtures / Re: Is this lathe worth buying for constructing small engines.« Last post by gipetto on Today at 08:17:26 PM »here's an idea, but i'm not sure on the gearing. the idea is to get an extra set of change gears and the slotted bar and axles the mount on. then to quickly change between threads, all that's needed to do is unscrew the allen head at the lead screw and replace the entire slotted bar and gears with the other slotted bar and gears.
now the fly in the ointment is the bottom gear on the leadscrew will often be of different size, so i would need to ensure all threads had the same bottom gear. this is where the engineering starts. now if i were to put a 20 tooth gear on the lead screw i would likely be able to slide the ring of the slotted bar over the gear without removing it. this is obviously a great time saver. currently there are 3 gears on the slotted bar. if i added a 20 tooth gear to the bottom, or even two 20 tooth gears side by side, so that both and b gears mesh without adjustment, that would change the ratio, by stepping down the speed of the geartrain. would i be correct in saying that if i put an equivalent 20 tooth gear at the top end of the slotted bar where it meshes with the spindle that it would step up the speed of the geartrain by an equivalent amount as at the leadscrew end of the slotted bar. If the math checked out, i could attempt a pair of slotted bars that arranged the gears in a zig zag pattern to fit inside the area between spindle and leadscrew. this would obviously require a credit card, unless i can source a lathe for spare parts. i have seen them for sale so it's not impossible. 8
From Kits/Castings / Re: Well pump as a model.« Last post by Michael S. on Today at 08:15:36 PM »The connecting rod to the pulley is finished.
I think I'll paint it green. Michael 9
Specific Engine Help / Re: Gas Needle Valve for Stuart 800« Last post by BGH on Today at 07:26:58 PM »Great thank you, well that explains some more of the mystery, at least in my head! 😅
I suspect I will try the simple option first but may come back to this if I want to refine it. That's all a great help, much appreciated 😊👍 10
Specific Engine Help / Re: Gas Needle Valve for Stuart 800« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 07:13:41 PM »Section for you. It also makes the needle captive so no chance of screwing it out too far and making a flame thrower.
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