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Your Own Design / Re: Squint Scale Curtiss Model K Aero I4
« Last post by Kim on Today at 01:55:41 AM »
The lunar surface looks great!  And it still goes around! What more could you want?  :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:

Kim
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Your Own Design / Re: Squint Scale Curtiss Model K Aero I4
« Last post by crueby on Today at 12:46:50 AM »
Looking great!   :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Your Own Design / Re: Squint Scale Curtiss Model K Aero I4
« Last post by RReid on Today at 12:44:13 AM »
A belated Thanks, Bent!

In the few days between getting back from one long trip and heading off for another short one, I've gotten ... not a lot done. But I did take the engine apart and get the crankcase painted. I don't tend to use much paint, but in this case wanted to cover the brass with a very light gray (Behr “Lunar Surface”) to at least suggest the cast aluminum of the originals.


With the paint dry I reassembled the lower end, leaving off the heads and push-pull rod assemblies, but installing the o-rings on the pistons. Then I plugged this portion into the lathe and gave it a bit of a run-in. Before I install the top end parts I'll pull the camshaft out and cut that extra length off flush with the “water pump” housing. I also still need pin three of the four cams into final position.
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57eQn17qmyE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57eQn17qmyE</a>
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Chatterbox / Re: Windows uninstall update
« Last post by crueby on May 27, 2024, 11:48:23 PM »
Update of what? A particular application? Windows updates themselves, as in the periodic updates of the OS? Going back major versions of Windows like Windows 11 to 10?? Need more details. Also, which Windows version are you using now?
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Chatterbox / Re: Another RC model side project
« Last post by crueby on May 27, 2024, 11:46:25 PM »
Did a little on the shovel this evening - made up the yoke block, which the dipper boom slides/rotates in - its the brass fitting where the two booms cross:

Still need to make more brackets for where the bucket connects to the boom, and a stop plate at the inboard end to keep it from sliding out of the yoke block. Also the pulleys/cable connections for the ends of the dipper boom for the crowd cable to connect to. But, before any of that, I want to make up the drum assembly for the hoist cable, to test out the movement and make sure the motors I am using will do the job - strength and enough speed. If any changes are needed there, want to get that sorted before more work done on the crowd movement.

Slow but sure, this project is inching forward in spare time...
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Chatterbox / Windows uninstall update
« Last post by gldavison on May 27, 2024, 11:05:51 PM »

Have you used this feature?  If so;

#1: Did you experience any problems;

#2: Can you go back more than just the last update?
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Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by crueby on May 27, 2024, 10:04:12 PM »
That coming along nicely, Chris!  :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:

And I think the clamp really adds to the overall look.  Maybe you should keep it there?  I mean, they jury-rigged things all the time when out at sea.  The clamp gives it added realism!  :ROFL:

Kim
At scale that would be about a two foot parallel  clamp! If they had a sailor who could put that in place, they could just let him raise the anchor!   :lolb:
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Your Own Design / Re: Stirling engine
« Last post by Kim on May 27, 2024, 09:41:15 PM »
That's really pretty with the wood, Michael! I like it!   :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:

Just make sure and keep the flame where it's supposed to be!  :o

Does the wood stay dimensionally stable enough to keep the engine running in various temperatures?  Or does it move out of alignment when things start to warm up?

Kim
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Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by Kim on May 27, 2024, 09:38:23 PM »
That coming along nicely, Chris!  :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:

And I think the clamp really adds to the overall look.  Maybe you should keep it there?  I mean, they jury-rigged things all the time when out at sea.  The clamp gives it added realism!  :ROFL:

Kim
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Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Kim on May 27, 2024, 09:33:04 PM »
Today I routed the conduit for the front headlight on the engine.   I based this on the pictures in Kozo’s book.  There are a couple of photos (including the front cover) where you can see a similar conduit line running from the headlight, curving down the side of the smokebox, and running along the running board to the cab.  That’s what I’ve done.

I made one hold-down clamp that I tapped into the smoke box with a 0-80 screw.  It seems to hold quite well. If I need another one, I could do it in the lower part of the smokebox or attach it to the running board.  I’m not going to do that yet though. I will also be attached at the cab-end to the yet-to-be-made switch panel.

Here’s a couple of shots of the completed conduit run.




Next, I’ll work on the switch panel.

Kim
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