Ah!  Makes sense!  Excellent explanation, thank you!
Kim

I have started on the rods and the bolting part is drilled and filed to fit ...the steel bar is bigger then the finished dimensions and it needs filing to shape ...after bolting it in place I file it inset and I use guide pins in the vice ....these are broken 1/8th centre drills that are hardened steel . holes are drilled at right angles the cast iron vice jaws and the parts are held in the vice in the correct position and the file is used to just bear on the part being filed . when turning the shaft on the Unit lathe I use a small jubilee clip as a stop for the cross slide. and when turning parts I use the Smallwood gauge to get the finished dimension ...

Willy

Hi John. Perhaps you can find something useful among these various valve timing diagrams:
https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,10726.msg247189.html#msg247189

While the clock has been ticking away, I’ve started making the next subassembly: the Maintaining Click.

This is the gizmo that will engage with the maintaining ratchet and (in theory) keep it from going backwards while we are winding the clock.  And with the maintaining ratchet prevented from moving backward, the maintaining spring (the one I broke just the other day  ) should keep torque applied to the great wheel so the clock doesn’t stop while winding.

The first part I made was the click itself.  This is a fairly large part, at just over 3” long.  I cut a piece of 1/16” sheet steel (I happened to have some 4130 on hand) and sketched out the basic shape I wanted.  Then drilled the holes for the arbor and the weight.  The holes are quite small, just right for a #0 screw.  Not the final size, but the right size to hold my filing buttons.  I'll drill them out to the final size later.


I put the filing buttons in place to help act as size markers, then milled the basic outline to shape.




After all my milling, this is where I ended up.


Then I did a bunch of filing (and a little belt sanding) to get it to this point:


Next, I turned the weight (bottom right), the arbor (far left), and the collet (top).  This click is held in place by gravity rather than by a spring.  I guess that means you can't wind the clock while it's upside down and expect it to keep time. 


I then made the bearings for the maintaining click arbor, reamed them to size, and assembled the maintaining click assembly.


I’m not going to put the maintaining click in the clock till after I finish my long run.

And speaking of that, we’re now at 74 hours!  I just passed the 3-day mark, and it’s still going! 

I tried to take a picture of the fusee (without touching the clock, of course) to show that the lower six windings are off the fusee and wound onto the barrel, and that there are eleven windings left on the fusee.  That should make for another five and a half days.  Maybe a little more!


Once I get the fusee stop setup (the next assembly to be made), I may find I can’t wind the fusee quite as much as I did this time.  So I may lose a half day with that.  We’ll see.  But I think I’ll still be OK.

Thanks for looking in!
Kim

Error Retraction: Someone brought to my attention that John Wilding designed this clock to be an 8-day clock. I incorrectly stated he designed as a 7-day clock.  Oops.  I regret any impact my error may have had on anyone. 

Those wheels look great when assembled 

Thanks Paul.