Coming along nicely    You must now be on the last 20% that also takes 80% of the time 

Nicely done  Do you have a length of test track you can try it on?

What an interesting project Kim! I just recently managed to get my grandfather clock (with an Urgos movement) going again. I built the case at school in 1976. The intricate gears (wheels?) and levers of these movements are just fascinating. Good luck with this project. I will certainly follow along!

Day eight.

Drilled the steam port in the cylinder and lapped the column and cylinder port faces together. After that made the first of several springs to hold the cylinder in place. This one was too heavy.

I finshed the flywheel to it's final thickness and added som decorative grooves. I ended up using the plan design as a guide. Then the set screw hole was drilled and tapped. The plan reccomends a set screw bearing on a pin to hold the flywheel in place. I made a single piece screw instead.

With the flywheel finished I had enough parts to give it a test run. Success!

The next task was permanent installation of the bearing with loctite and drill the oil hole for the crank. Seemed like an easy task on paper. The problem started when the loctite started curing before I got the bearing seated. This was followed by much adult language as I tossed all my parts bins looking for something I could use to get some clearance as I squeezed the bearing into its bore using a vise. As I said earlier the bearing was a snug fit to begin with, but I got it all the way in.

The oil hole is an angled hole into an angled surface so I plunged in with a 1/16" endmill very cafefully.

Last today I made another spring for the cylinder. It's made from 0.020" brass tension wire, which a clockmaker's product. It runs much better with the lighter spring. I'm thinking I should have polished the wire before coiling it. I might have to make another.

The only things left are shaping and polishing the outside of the cylinder and finishing the column foot.

Eric

I removed the C-clamps and separated the two plates.  I also labeled them so I didn’t get too confused on which was which, and what was the inside vs outside.  Then I tapped my 9 holes 3-48.  The two holes marked in red are the taper pin holes. I did NOT want to tap those by mistake!


Then I drilled out the holes in the front plate to a super close fit for #3 screws.  I used a #40 drill, which is 0.098”.  A #3 screw supposedly has a major diameter of 0.099”.  But these fit nicely in a #40 hole, with absolutely no play. Just what I wanted.  Then I counter-sunk each of them.


Next I reinserted the taper pins to align the two plates and screwed them together with #3-48 screws.


It seems to hold quite well. So well, in fact, that I felt I could remove the taper pins for the sawing operation. This seems important since those  taper pins stick out on both sides of the plates and cause all kinds of problems when trying to slide the plates around for various operations.

With the plates held firmly together, I tried sawing this stack with the scroll saw.  I tried a couple of different blades.  I started with a #3 spiral blade. This worked, but it was super slow.  It took almost 15 minutes to cut that short bit you see here, about a 1/2" or so.  Then I tried a standard #2 blade, but that was even slower going.  You can almost see a little pip just to the right of the larger kerf of the #3 spiral blade.  Apparently 5/16” thick plate is slow cutting, even if it is just brass!


So, as it seems everyone does, I decided to try the chain drilling technique.  It took maybe 20ish minutes to chain drill the remainder of the bottom line of the frame.


Then I took it back to the scroll saw, and using the #3 spiral blade, I cut between all the holes.  This whole process, chain drilling, and sawing took about 1 3/4 hours.  So it’s not fast either.


Doing some quick math, I calculated that the bottom edge that I just cut is between 13-14” linear inches.  That would mean 6-7 hours to cut just using the saw.  Yet I did most of it in under 2 hours using the chain drill method.  Since it is significantly faster I will likely be using chain drilling for the rest of this lengthy (painful?) operation of cutting out the frames.

I have a lot of chain drilling in my near future! 

Thanks for looking in!
Kim