Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: crueby on January 22, 2023, 06:51:11 PM
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Hi all,
This is a project I've wanted to do for a really long time, one of the Stuart Turner steam hammers. I remember seeing them in the ST catalog (remember catalogs?) back when I was just getting into machining, but never built one. A year or so ago I found out the ST sells the plans sheets separately from the kits, so I picked up the one for their steam hammer. The price for the kit seemed too high, since I can make just about everything from bar stock, but the main curved column would take a lot of time/material to make, so I ordered just one of those from their replacement parts list, and I'll make the rest myself. The current owners of ST said they didn't have any in stock, and hadn't cast any of that kit since taking over, they are currently updating the pattern to work with their new process (don't know what that is, just repeating what they said) and they should have it cast around the end of the month. They have been very responsive to emails, hoping that is a good sign.
In the meantime, the shop elves have been studying the plans and plotting out how to make things. Hope I can read their handwritten notes, their writing is really small!
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5jnqnyM/IMG-2847.jpg)
The cylinder will be first, I did a little doodling in Fusion to sketch out how to make it from bar stock, and given the size of bar I have on hand it will likely turn out to be a slightly larger bore than the original but the same general shape. The one change I am going to make is to make the valve be a D-type slide valve rather than the spool valve, I like the D valves a lot better, much easier to get a good seal.[/font][/size]
So, on with the build! Started by cutting a couple lengths of some 2-1/4" brass bar, for the cylinder and the stuffing box below it. A flat plate will be attached to the side of each to form the mounting flanges. Started out with them drilled/tapped on one end to mount on a faceplate, and turned the outside of the cylinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W39v80t3/IMG-2851.jpg)
Then moved the cylinder, still on the faceplate, over to the mill to cut the flat down the side:
(https://i.postimg.cc/L5nMbhZV/IMG-2852.jpg)
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Note: If the images from the last post are not showing for you, are you running FireFox browser? Images from the hosting service PostImage don't seem to be working in Firefox today, I've contacted them about it. They are showing for me in Edge and on my tablet in Chrome fine. Tried all the usual stuff, restarting, clearing cookies/cache, safe mode, all that. Something has changed on their end as far as I can tell, unless you are able to see them from Firefox? :headscratch:
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Chris,
I can see your pictures on Firefox and Win XP :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
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Pictures are working in my Firefox, all is well - and off to a great start!
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Very odd, I still can't see them on my Firefox. :shrug: Glad you are seeing them!
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I can't see two of the images in either Firefox or Seamonkey on Linux. I do see the first image (of the elves reading the plan.)
The addresses of the two non-viewing images are...(https : // removed so they don't become links)
i.postimg.cc/W39v80t3/IMG-2851.jpg
and
i.postimg.cc/L5nMbhZV/IMG-2852.jpg
The visible image for me is:
i.postimg.cc/P5jnqnyM/IMG-2847.jpg
The two you can't see are the ones I added today, the other one was there yesterday and was probably in your cache. Hmmm, that tells me it must be something on their end. Thanks!
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Chris, correct, I refreshed the cache, and the first one is no longer visible.
What OS are you using -- I'm on Linux.
Firefox is ver. 109.0 64bit (current)
I'm on windows 10, but same version of firefox as you. On same PC, the Edge browser shows them fine. Also on tablet with Chrome its okay. Just started this today - I have sent a couple emails to the image host website, will see if they can tell, probably tomorrow at earliest.
Images others posted recently, like the bird on Jo's gardening thread, also dont show from same photo host site, so its not just my images.
Thanks!
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Good to know, thanks!
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I use both Firefox and Postimages. I'm seeing all the pics, including the one I posted this morning.
New project looks to be off to a great start. Will be following, as always. :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Thanks guys! They seem to have fixed whatever it is, I'm seeing all of them again. It was really worrying when I couldn't see my images on their site directly too!
Appreciate the help figuring out if it was me or them, take two packs of cookies out of petty cash! :Lol:
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :cheers:
Great to see the new build start! You'll have the machines and furniture jumping off the floor in no time. :Lol:
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Chris is it big enough to do some actual work on sheet metal?
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Chris is it big enough to do some actual work on sheet metal?
Big enough for small eheet metal anyway! :Lol: The cylinder is 1.25" bore, 3" tall as I am making it, plans show 1 inch bore. So a fair bit of power for a table top model.
Only a couple inches at most of depth from column to the anvil. The real ones were used more for forging hot metal than sheet work. This one would be able to do rivets and flattening ends of bars, as well as shelling peanuts and such. Should be a lot of fun with a roll of caps too! Ping pong ball compacting. Thinning shop gnomes for mailing...
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It would be great for walnuts. :ThumbsUp:
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I'm seeing OK on Chrome
Regarding the change of valve type I had a feeling that I read somewhere the reason the hammers use a spool valve is that as the hammer hits that is much like the piston on a D valve engine hitting a hydraulic lock. On the D valve engine the valve will lift to avoid damage by forcing the piston against the solid liquid, on a hammer you don't want it to loose all its force when it hits the item you want to hammer.
Also you don't really want your nuts too big, better to let the piston have time to get moving before it hits anything, if the item only just fitted below the hammer you would just stall it. probablt 1" would be the max you could fit giving the hammer room to lift and then come down onto the work with reasonable force. Bit like driving a 16D nail where you don't have room to swing the hammer more than a couple of inches
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I built one of the ST hammers , finished it back in 2016 after many years of doing odd bits. It made a nice project . Wrote it up on this forum, I think you may have commented on it at the time Chris, but in case the reference is useful, https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6362.msg130090.html#msg130090 would find it. Otherwise, around August 2016 in my posts. Dave
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I'm seeing OK on Chrome
Regarding the change of valve type I had a feeling that I read somewhere the reason the hammers use a spool valve is that as the hammer hits that is much like the piston on a D valve engine hitting a hydraulic lock. On the D valve engine the valve will lift to avoid damage by forcing the piston against the solid liquid, on a hammer you don't want it to loose all its force when it hits the item you want to hammer.
Also you don't really want your nuts too big, better to let the piston have time to get moving before it hits anything, if the item only just fitted below the hammer you would just stall it. probablt 1" would be the max you could fit giving the hammer room to lift and then come down onto the work with reasonable force. Bit like driving a 16D nail where you don't have room to swing the hammer more than a couple of inches
Hi Jason,
I don't think the hydraulic lock is a good analogy with the hammer hitting. The D valve would lift if the exhaust side of the cylinder pushes back through the port and against the valve slider. When the hammer piston hits the object, there would be no feedback up the exhaust like that, the bottom of the cylinder is just vented to the outside air, and the pressure from the steam side would still be against the top of the piston. So I am not seeing the problem?
And I've never had comments like that about the size of my nuts! :lolb: Ohh, the walnuts! :Jester: One way around that could be to make the anvil at the base changeable, allow different height ones to be put on the base maybe. There is about 2-1/2" of travel on the piston, and you are right, would not want to give up too much of that to accelerate the hammer. I wonder if they did something similar on the real ones for when shaping big blocks of steel vs small ones?
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I built one of the ST hammers , finished it back in 2016 after many years of doing odd bits. It made a nice project . Wrote it up on this forum, I think you may have commented on it at the time Chris, but in case the reference is useful, https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6362.msg130090.html#msg130090 (https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6362.msg130090.html#msg130090) would find it. Otherwise, around August 2016 in my posts. Dave
Ah, yes, looks like I did comment on that one! Great reference on the parts, just bookmarked it! Thanks!! :cheers:
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Yes I may have been remembering it wrongly or just imaging it :headscratch:
The anvils were removable, I suppose if forging suare bar into round you would do better with a half round anvil and matching hammer face.
There is quite a bit about teh Hammer here, last image is to a video of one working with a lot of elves wielding the hot metal
http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html
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Yes I may have been remembering it wrongly or just imaging it :headscratch:
The anvils were removable, I suppose if forging suare bar into round you would do better with a half round anvil and matching hammer face.
There is quite a bit about teh Hammer here, last image is to a video of one working with a lot of elves wielding the hot metal
http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html (http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html)
Great pics and video!
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I'm really looking forward to your build. The remark about cracking walnuts reminded me of a wild plan I had at one time to build a live steam bar set. A steam pump to pump liquids, a steam hammer to crack nuts and a steam driven concrete mixer to mix drinks. I got the pump and mixer built but never got around to the hammer. Your upcoming steam saw would be perfect for slicking cheese or sausage.
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Your upcoming steam saw would be perfect for slicking cheese or sausage.
Surely slicing lemon would be more appropriate for a bar :wine1:
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I'm really looking forward to your build. The remark about cracking walnuts reminded me of a wild plan I had at one time to build a live steam bar set. A steam pump to pump liquids, a steam hammer to crack nuts and a steam driven concrete mixer to mix drinks. I got the pump and mixer built but never got around to the hammer. Your upcoming steam saw would be perfect for slicking cheese or sausage.
You are truly nutty. I like that! :Lol: I want a set!
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You are truly nutty. I like that! :Lol: I want a set!
"Nutty", what a nice compliment! I always strive to work on the outer fringes of reality where nutty is the norm.
In the interest of patron safety, I intended to have the bar top boiler fed by a hidden air compressor. Sadly, that vetoed the idea of a steam road engine to ferry drinks to the other end of the bar.
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You are truly nutty. I like that! :Lol: I want a set!
"Nutty", what a nice compliment! I always strive to work on the outer fringes of reality where nutty is the norm.
In the interest of patron safety, I intended to have the bar top boiler fed by a hidden air compressor. Sadly, that vetoed the idea of a steam road engine to ferry drinks to the other end of the bar.
Have the road loco trail a small clear air line under the wagon holding the drinks. Or run the line back over the back edge of the bar, won't be that noticeable to the guests.
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So, yesterday the outside of the cylinder was shaped. Today the cylinder was bored out to 1.25". Drilled first to 3/8", then used boring bars to take it out to final size. The smaller boring bars needed at first chattered a bit when extended out all the way to reach the bottom of the bar, but the final 1/2" diameter bar was smooth as silk. Some wheel weights were stuck on the side where it had been flattened to balance it out enough to run at normal speeds.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NGRjwBBD/IMG-2853.jpg)
Then over to the mill to drill the bottom gland mount holes
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NLPLH4h/IMG-2854.jpg)
That was the last operation where the cylinder needed to be on the faceplate, so it was swapped over to hold the bottom gland piece. That was drilled to match the holes in the cylinder while the rotary table was all set up in the right place.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLsnSt3v/IMG-2855.jpg)
Back over to the lathe to turn the outside - I wanted to take the sides in the same diameter as on the cylinder so the flat side will come out the same width as on the cylinder. The center of this piece needs to be taken down smaller to allow room for the mounting nuts/studs, but I wanted to keep the flat side wider to look more like the original castings do. So, that work will be done on the mill.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4vXzgNq/IMG-2856.jpg)
First though, drilled/bored out the center to 1/2" for the piston rod. The rod has flat sides, but the hole here is round - the gland cap will have the flattened sides only, which will be some careful milling later.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4q7GxyB/IMG-2857.jpg)
This face is the one that goes against the cylinder. The other side will be counterbored out larger for the packing gland, that will be done after parting it off from the bar.
While still on the faceplate, moved over to the vertical rotary table to mill the center section of the sides down to size, leaving the flat side.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYGYdFP6/IMG-2859.jpg)
To get the flat lined up properly with the one on the cylinder, I bolted the cylinder in place. Next time I'll take the time to line up the flat on the cylinder level with the mill table by rotating the assembly on the rotary table, then mill off the flat on the base piece.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g22zRhRt/IMG-2860.jpg)
So far so good!
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Beautiful work on the cylinder!! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
One might disguise a mobile bar boiler as a novel espresso machine.
Perhaps cheap vodka as fuel?
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Chris,
This is another build for me to follow closely as I have a set of Stuart steam hammer castings waiting in the queue. They are ageing nicely. In Jo's world they would be "being fondled" on a regular basis.
Colin
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Off to a rapid start again :) I will try to keep up :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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here's a official drink mixer,, was made to run on air, rescued from some old lab gear,, I'm sure it did more than just experiments over the years...
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Chris,
This is another build for me to follow closely as I have a set of Stuart steam hammer castings waiting in the queue. They are ageing nicely. In Jo's world they would be "being fondled" on a regular basis.
Colin
Get them out and join in! :Lol:
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here's a official drink mixer,, was made to run on air, rescued from some old lab gear,, I'm sure it did more than just experiments over the years...
Looks Slim is thirsty! Is he putting on weight? :lolb:
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Off to a rapid start again :) I will try to keep up :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
I don't want to go too fast on this one, I need to wait for the column casting...
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Is the column flying business or coach Chris? (or rowboat , with some soggy shop elves - the ones that uttered the "avast swabbing there" comments about the rudder mockup)
Cylinder work looks great! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Re Slim, and the mixer photo- he may be thinking about whether olives would fit in the flywheel holes....
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Is the column flying business or coach Chris? (or rowboat , with some soggy shop elves - the ones that uttered the "avast swabbing there" comments about the rudder mockup)
Cylinder work looks great! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Re Slim, and the mixer photo- he may be thinking about whether olives would fit in the flywheel holes....
The column probably hasn't been cast yet, don't know how they will ship it. Are the postal strikes over there still going? They might have to slingshot it over the channel and mail it from there! :Lol: I might have to send my elves on a stealth mission to steal the plans for that cute little cement mixer!
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Just FYI I ordered some detail parts for a train model from a firm in the UK about 3 weeks ago, and got them in the mail today. I think that was great service all the way from there. I guess the postal issues may be over, or at least they have the post functioning OK in the meantime. Maybe have the shipper mark the package "HOT PIZZA - HIGHEST PRIORITY" :Lol:
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Just FYI I ordered some detail parts for a train model from a firm in the UK about 3 weeks ago, and got them in the mail today. I think that was great service all the way from there. I guess the postal issues may be over, or at least they have the post functioning OK in the meantime. Maybe have the shipper mark the package "HOT PIZZA - HIGHEST PRIORITY" :Lol:
Mark the package like that and it will arrive empty! :Lol:
In the past I've had packages from UK sent by other carriers like fedex and had them in a couple of days. Ones sent through pist office made it to US in four days, and another week sitting in US Customs in NY City. I don't know how this one will be sent.
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there was some cyber hack on their postal system,, a couple of days ago I received an email from my flag making guy
(he does the best model flags by far, custom work) that my boat flag was done but the mail was messed up and would mail it when things were corrected.. but yes I have gotten orders from the UK in very good shipping times...
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Some good progress on the steam hammer cylinder. As mentioned yesterday, I needed to trim off the side of the lower block to form the flat for the backing plate. Used a dial indicator to set the existing cylinder flat level to the mill, turning the rotary table slightly till it read the same across the flat face.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x88jJ057/IMG-2861.jpg)
Then trimmed off the lower block, on the left in the picture, till it was flush with the flat on the cylinder
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Nq82Pbw/IMG-2862.jpg)
Unbolted the cylinder and took the faceplate and block over to the lathe, where I trimmed off the bottom flange (on the left of center in the picture) to size, and then parted it off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fWqR49Th/IMG-2863.jpg)
Gripped the part by the outer end and trimmed off the parted face, and also counterbored the hole out to 3/4" most of the way through to take the piston rod gland parts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7rkccQ2/IMG-2864.jpg)
In the plans, they show making the holes in both the gland holder and the gland as round-ended/flat sided holes to keep the piston rod from turning as it is used. But, no indication of how to do that operation, and I've seen numerous ways to do it in other build threads. So, here is the way I picked: make two parts, a thin plate and the gland plate, both shaped on one end to that odd shaped hole, done on the mill with the rotary table and a tiny end mill. Then, the plate goes into the counterbored hole, then packing material (possibly some Viton sheet cut to the shape of the hole), then the gland to hold the packing tight.
I started by turning two pieces of bearing bronze to size for the plate and the gland. The width between the straight walls is 7/16, so the center of each was bored to that size. I used the tip of the boring bar to also cut a shallow recess at 1/2" diameter on the outside edge of each to act as a milling guide. The piston rod is 1/2" diameter with the flats milled into the sides.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VNFzKSHp/IMG-2865.jpg)
Then, moved the chuck over to the mill, on the rotary table, and locked it down at 0 degrees. With a 1/16" end mill cutter in the collet, moved the cutter over to the center of one side of the hole till it just touched, and moved the mill table in and out to cut straight lines till they touched the 1/2" recess. Faces cut are shown by the red arrows.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxRNCZT4/IMG-2867.jpg)
Unlocked the rotary table, and milled the arcs between the flats till they just reaced the 1/2" guide edges, staying between the two flat faces. The cut shown by the red arrow is almost to the guide arc, you can still just see a line where it steps down.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXVX7gBR/IMG-2868.jpg)
Another couple light passes to sneak up on that edge, and then did the same cuts on the arc on the other side. Here is the result - you can see the arcs at either end and the flats in the middle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dVrsTNRq/IMG-2870.jpg)
Then did the same on the hole in the gland piece. Now, that tiny end mill is not very long, so I couldn't cut that deep into the bearing. So, the thin plate was parted off, and then the gland was counterbored to 1/2" from the back side, went in just till I met the oblong hole that was cut on the mill.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Tw7fXzxc/IMG-2872.jpg)
Here is the thin plate, shown on the bottom block, which has the 3/4" hole most of the way through.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rsDcyfF2/IMG-2873.jpg)
And here the plate has been pushed into the hole:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Nzhk2d4/IMG-2874.jpg)
Now, I COULD have made that plate as part of the larger piece, but I wasn't sure if it would work, and didn't want to risk ruining the whole block, so this is fine. The plate is just pushed into the hole - the gland cap with its matching oblong hole will do the work of keeping the piston rod aligned, its mounting bolts will keep it from turning. Next time will start on drilling/tapping the block and cap for the mounting holes, and will show the whole assembly then.
:cheers:
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Same here: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Thanks guys!
The shop elves are currently arguing about whether one of these can put a popped piece of popcorn back in its shell... :facepalm2:
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with the right forge die, it might be possible. :happyreader: But like freeze dried ice cream, just because you can doesn't mean you should. :Lol:
Husk re-bonding may be an issue...... :thinking: ....... OK stopping the problem solving on this now! :slap: :Lol:
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with the right forge die, it might be possible. :happyreader: But like freeze dried ice cream, just because you can doesn't mean you should. :Lol:
Husk re-bonding may be an issue...... :thinking: ....... OK stopping the problem solving on this now! :slap: :Lol:
Don't even think about machining the zipper to hold it closed, your head will explode! :lolb:
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Great looking cylinder, Chris! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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Great looking cylinder, Chris! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
Thanks Kim! The cylinder and valve are about it for the engine, no crankshaft, eccentric, con rod, any of the usual stuff, which is great for a 'quick' build between big projects.
One thing I need to decide on soon is the lead of the passages. The original spool valve is inside admission, and it depends on the valve movement directions for the auto shutoff of steam when raising the piston/hammer. There is a lever the hammer end hits to push the valve vack to neutral and stop the rise.
Since the d valve is outside admission, it operates in the opposite directions. That means to keep the auto stop on raising that I need to reroute the passages to swap the leads to the end ports. Should be simple, just need to lay it out before drilling the passages.
Also, as part of that, I'd like to incorporate a needle valve into the lower passage so I can tune the flow to the bottom end of the cylinder and limit how fast the piston can rise since there is no crank to limit movement like a typical engine. Again, easy to do as long as I plan it out first.
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When they used these, and there was a long pause, was the hammer left in a lowered position? Would the steam cool and condense in the extended portion of the cylinder?
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When they used these, and there was a long pause, was the hammer left in a lowered position? Would the steam cool and condense in the extended portion of the cylinder?
That's a great question. I'm guessing since I have no experience with these machines, but seems like you are right about leaving it down, especially if the main steam supply was shut off and things cooled. With perfect seals everywhere, the vacuum at the top could hold the piston up, but even a tiny seep around piston rings or in the valve would let air in, even if the valve was left in the neutral off position.
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Thanks Chris.
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Also, as part of that, I'd like to incorporate a needle valve into the lower passage so I can tune the flow to the bottom end of the cylinder and limit how fast the piston can rise since there is no crank to limit movement like a typical engine. Again, easy to do as long as I plan it out first.
If you are only ever going to run it on air, you could (in theory) put a needle valve in the exhaust from the top of the cylinder. This is the way the speed of an air cylinder is usually controlled, as it gives a much stiffer and more predictable system than restricting the inlet.
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Also, as part of that, I'd like to incorporate a needle valve into the lower passage so I can tune the flow to the bottom end of the cylinder and limit how fast the piston can rise since there is no crank to limit movement like a typical engine. Again, easy to do as long as I plan it out first.
If you are only ever going to run it on air, you could (in theory) put a needle valve in the exhaust from the top of the cylinder. This is the way the speed of an air cylinder is usually controlled, as it gives a much stiffer and more predictable system than restricting the inlet.
How would I restrict the exhaust from the top without restricting the flow on the power stroke? Its the same passages used for both. :headscratch:
Your question made me rethink my idea - the way I was thinking would have slowed the exhaust from the bottom as well as pressure going in, cutting the effectiveness of the power stroke. Better to stick with what the original models did, and have a stop on the control lever to keep the up stroke inlet from opening too far!
:cheers:
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How would I restrict the exhaust from the top without restricting the flow on the power stroke? Its the same passages used for both. :headscratch:
You would need a 'pneumatic diode' in parallel with the needle valve, such as a ball valve. But I do not suppose all that could be squeezed
in to the space available. Of course, if you had stuck with the inside admission piston valve, you could have put the restrictor in the exhaust downstream of the valve.
Your question made me rethink my idea
Glad to be of service
Alternatively, could you limit the valve travel so that on the up stoke it is only cracked open?
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How would I restrict the exhaust from the top without restricting the flow on the power stroke? Its the same passages used for both. :headscratch:
You would need a 'pneumatic diode' in parallel with the needle valve, such as a ball valve. But I do not suppose all that could be squeezed
in to the space available. Of course, if you had stuck with the inside admission piston valve, you could have put the restrictor in the exhaust downstream of the valve.
Your question made me rethink my idea
Glad to be of service
Alternatively, could you limit the valve travel so that on the up stoke it is only cracked open?
My last sentence mentioned the stop on the lever, that is the usual way people have done it.
And the downstream exhaust is shared on both piston valve and d valve. Same passages both ways i the plans.
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It would depend on how Stuarts have done the porting and whether inside or outside admission. But with an inside admission piston valve there are two exhausts from the piston chamber one of which could have the adjustable restriction as arrowed in red, the lower exhaust from the valve bore is not restricted . Not critical if they join up later to form one single exhaust connection.
This would not affect the passages between cylinder and piston bore which are shared as inlet and exhaust in the same way as slide valve ones are shared.
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Stuart did it as inside admission with one exhaust out the top, a hole through the piston valve. Doesn't matter much since I am using a d valve.
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Continued on with the bottom gland cap, drilled the mounting holes
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CZT8t2D/IMG-2875.jpg)
and installed the gland cap
(https://i.postimg.cc/F1X4bqLb/IMG-2876.jpg)
then turned/drilled/tapped/installed the top cap from the leftover piece of the cylinder
(https://i.postimg.cc/qRY0qgB5/IMG-2878.jpg)
I figured out where I wanted the passages, and laid out the pieces for the mounting flanges, drilled/tapped for them
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFHtHY5f/IMG-2879.jpg)
and made the flange bars. The mounting bolts are countersunk in to allow the plates to sit flush against the column and the steam chest
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kz4xmtbT/IMG-2880.jpg)
The mounting holes themselves on the lower bars will be drilled after I get the column casting, just in cast the dimensions need to be tweaked from the drawing. So next steps will be to drill the passages, then can start on the steam chest itself...
:cheers:
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Looking great Chris! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Looking great Chris! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Thanks CNR. This model is a nice break from the big projects, seeing it take shape quickly is nice!
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Really nice! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :cheers:
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Thanks Steve!
Next up was to drill the steam passages. Unlike the original kit, this model is built up from bar stock, which allowed me to change the valve/passages up a bit. I'm not a huge fan of piston valves, so I decided to make this one with a D-valve. To keep the direction of movement on the lever vs the piston/hammer the same I need to make the bottom cylinder passage go to the top port, and vice versa. That will allow the same cutoff lever setup from the original still work with the outside-admission D-valve vs the original inside-admission piston valve. So, I drilled the passage holes from either end offset from center so they could pass each other.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d04cSF3n/IMG-2881.jpg)
The recess to connect the passage end to the cylinder was also milled in on each one
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfJ1jvzV/IMG-2882.jpg)
and then connected the ends of the passages up through the steel backer plate. This plate is NOT getting the ports cut in it for the valve, there will be another thin valve plate on top of the steel for that. Since the passages are off center , these holes are off center too, so will need a little milling to connect them better to the ports in the brass plate.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0QjRT4Jv/IMG-2883.jpg)
While doing the drilling, also drilled through the exhaust port in the side of the steel plate
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXLdsJph/IMG-2884.jpg)
Then went back and added the milled slots to connect the end passages to the port plate better:
(https://i.postimg.cc/44zkrpYm/IMG-2885.jpg)
These openings don't need to be precise, the brass port plate will do that, and some gasket goop will seal between the plates.
So, next time I'll start in on making the port plate and the steam chest...
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Looks great Chris - even if there isn't a starboard plate on the hammer! :Lol:
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Looks great Chris - even if there isn't a starboard plate on the hammer! :Lol:
We'll see how many of the landlubbers get that one!
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Hard to fathom.
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Yeah, but if he DID have a starboard plate to match the port plate that he does have, then he would have 2 passages to the piston. That would make it a simple-ish matter to include the check-valves and restrictor to control the piston speed.
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Yeah, but if he DID have a starboard plate to match the port plate that he does have, then he would have 2 passages to the piston. That would make it a simple-ish matter to include the check-valves and restrictor to control the piston speed.
Punny AND useful! :Lol:
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A good start!
I'm following the construction with interest because I've always wanted to know how the steam hammer works.
:cheers:
Michael
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A good start!
I'm following the construction with interest because I've always wanted to know how the steam hammer works.
:cheers:
Michael
Great to have you following along. Have you watched the video someone posted earlier in the thread? There are a number of them on Youtube showing full size ones forging big chunks of metal.
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I'm following this with interest as well.
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Absolutely beautiful and powerful these steam hammers.
Especially when he's hammering live steam.
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I think these steam hammers are really the dinosaurs of the good old days of workshops.
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Michael S:
It's not quite a steam hammer, but a couple of years ago Torbjörn Åhman, a YouTube blacksmith that I follow, tore apart his power hammer to do some maintenance on it. It might be of interest to you. The video is still on his website. https://www.youtube.com/c/torbjornahman (https://www.youtube.com/c/torbjornahman)
He also did a series of videos on the installation and initial testing of that same power hammer.
Don
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A few more pieces made for the steam hammer, now working on the steam chest. Started by cutting two lengths of 1/8" thick flat brass bar and one of 3/8" thick. They were stacked up/aligned with the upper steel backing plate, clamped all together, and drilled through for the mounting bolts. By doing all four pieces together I could be sure the holes would all line up without having to remeasure/mark/align on every piece. A hole was done at the top, and three more down the sides, skipping over the other screw and passage holes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gtq8jQ59/IMG-2886.jpg)
Here are the parts test fit back on the cylinder
(https://i.postimg.cc/ncS9j3mP/IMG-2887.jpg)
The thicker block was then hollowed out for the steam chest, and one end drilled/counterdrilled for the valve rod and gland.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GhmsmW4D/IMG-2888.jpg)
The bottom thin port plate had the holes drilled/milled in, these are aligned over the passage holes in the steel backing plate.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8Kkntrv/IMG-2889.jpg)
This picture shows the port plate set on the cylinder
(https://i.postimg.cc/zDjg5zG5/IMG-2890.jpg)
Still to do on the steam chest are the valve rod gland cap and the steam inlet pipe. I have some extra globe valves and flanges that I made during the Holly Pump Engine build, one of those will be used as the valve on the inlet pipe.
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Nice progress, Chris! :popcorn: :popcorn:
I love seeing how you label things! I do that too, otherwise, I get confused and do things to the wrong side. :embarassed:
Kim
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Nice progress, Chris! :popcorn: :popcorn:
I love seeing how you label things! I do that too, otherwise, I get confused and do things to the wrong side. :embarassed:
Kim
Works fine, except when I label parts with a pen, then silver solder them... :wallbang: I have a set of number punches that I TRY and remember to use for those cases, or if I need to see the marks after painting!
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:Love:
:cheers:
Don
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More time packing things into the steam chest. As I mentioned yesterday, back when I made the Holly pumping engine I made a few extra globe valves and pipe flanges. Took some of the flanges and silver soldered them onto a length of brass 'pipe' made by drilling out a piece or rod stock. Drilled/tapped the mounting holes and inlet hole in the chest cover:
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2HXRdbV/IMG-2892.jpg)
Then made the valve rod gland cap by drilling the center of a piece of round bar and turning in the center post before going over to the rotary table to drill the mounting holes. I like doing them this way, drill one and rotate the table 180 degrees, that way am sure they are centered on the line through the center hole even if the rotary table is off a touch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVmdXf7v/IMG-2893.jpg)
Milled the sides of the cap down, angling the ends in towards the holes, and back to the lathe to part it off the bar
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMGLYRwy/IMG-2894.jpg)
Finished cap - used the cap as a drill guide to line up the mounting holes when drilling them in the steam chest.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HWX3w37S/IMG-2895.jpg)
and cut/threaded the valve rod
(https://i.postimg.cc/cL4mNSkj/IMG-2896.jpg)
Still to go on this assembly are the clevis for the end of the valve rod, the valve slider, and adjusting nut...
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: and as ever trying to keep up :)
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: and as ever trying to keep up :)
Thanks Roger! :cheers:
Things may slow down soon when I get the rest of the parts made and may have to wait on the column casting, so you can catch up then! :Lol:
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..... other wise you could be forgiven for thinking of this as the quickest Crueby build ever :LittleDevil:
Looking really good Chris :cheers:
Per
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..... other wise you could be forgiven for thinking of this as the quickest Crueby build ever :LittleDevil:
Looking really good Chris :cheers:
Per
Thanks Per, but tmy current record is a day for a mini beam engine I made years ago, 3 inch beam, all quick and dirty with bar stock left square.
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Nice looking valve rod gland, Chris. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Are you going to use an o-ring on the valve rod? Or use some other kind of packing in there?
Kim
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Nice looking valve rod gland, Chris. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Are you going to use an o-ring on the valve rod? Or use some other kind of packing in there?
Kim
Yup, a viton o ring. Got a compartment box full of a variety of sizes, they work great. Started using them when building my Kozo Shay, he recommended them in the book. Available online in packs of 25 or 50 fairly cheap. I use them as shaft seals on my RC submarines too.
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I've just gone back to the start and read the whole thread again. Lovely work and I will follow this to the end.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Regards, Steve
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I've just gone back to the start and read the whole thread again. Lovely work and I will follow this to the end.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Regards, Steve
Thanks Steve, great to have you along for the ride!
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The valve on the steam box looks good!
I like the construction.
And you added the little condensate valves.
Michael
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While you are waiting for the column castings, you might enjoy looking at pictures of a working steam hammer. Claymills Pumping Station (http://www.claymills.org.uk/index.html) has an impressive steam driven workshop including an operational steam hammer. Look for „Workshop“ and „Steam Hammer“. The online tour includes a picture of the hammer in action. The website might give you ideas for future projects.
Btw. Claymills is near Burton on Trent, famous for :DrinkPint: :DrinkPint:
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While you are waiting for the column castings, you might enjoy looking at pictures of a working steam hammer. Claymills Pumping Station (http://www.claymills.org.uk/index.html) has an impressive steam driven workshop including an operational steam hammer. Look for „Workshop“ and „Steam Hammer“. The online tour includes a picture of the hammer in action. The website might give you ideas for future projects.
Btw. Claymills is near Burton on Trent, famous for :DrinkPint: :DrinkPint:
Looks like a terrific museum! I wish I was about 5 time zones closer!
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More little valve bits... First are the clevises for the linkage down to the control lever, carved out of some 1/4" square bar stock:
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYgwM2W7/IMG-2897.jpg)
Then got started on the valve slider from a piece of bearing bronze bar. This stuff comes oversized since its a continuous cast bar, so it needs trueing to size on the lathe before it will fit properly in the collet. I like to use the square collet holder on the mill for this, turning the block 180 degrees between cuts and cutting to the same handwheel setting will ensure the trimmed section is centered on the bar without any other edge finding. First took the end to dimension for the height/width of the slider, then cut in the slots for the valve rod and adjusting nut, followed by cutting in the recess with a 1/16" end mill, checking dimensions on the recess and its centering frequently.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8P2qNwrM/IMG-2898.jpg)
Here is the piece after cutting off the longer bar
(https://i.postimg.cc/13Dbt6pT/IMG-2899.jpg)
and how it will sit inside the steam chest
(https://i.postimg.cc/q70SCRw7/IMG-2900.jpg)
Next will make the adjusting nut, and finish off by lapping the port plate and the bottom of the slider for a good seal...
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Really neat job. Did I ever mention that our resident blacksmith at the Army base workshops used to crack open his breakfast eggs on his!
It was a bit bigger then yours... :Jester:
John
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Really neat job. Did I ever mention that our resident blacksmith at the Army base workshops used to crack open his breakfast eggs on his!
It was a bit bigger then yours... :Jester:
John
The comedian Gallagher could have had a lot of fun with a full size one and the watermelons in his act!
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Valve and clevises (clevi?) and associated bits look great Chris!
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Valve and clevises (clevi?) and associated bits look great Chris!
Cleviseseses... Swivly things! :lolb:
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Moved on to making the piston/hammer parts. The piston head was first, simple bit of turning from a piece of stainless with the side grooved for a viton o ring and the end counterbored to recess the retaining screw head. The piston head has to be removeable to get the piston rod through the gland at the bottom, since the other end of the piston rod flares out to form the hammer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5Nbw64Ps/IMG-2901.jpg)
and I've started taking down a 1" bar for the piston rod. The end on the left will be flared out and then step in square for the hammer portion, the right hand end in the photo is stepped in to fit the hole in the piston head. Lots more passes to go on the shank of the piston rod to get it down to 1/2", then the sides get milled to form the flats that keep the piston/hammer from turning in use.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Y9SzFdw/IMG-2902.jpg)
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More done on the piston rod, the lathe work is done, ready to go to the mill to flatten the sides and shape the hammer end...
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvGJCDyc/IMG-2903.jpg)
The swarf was coming off the lathe faster than the shop elves could sweep it up - their pet goat will be eating good tonight! :Lol:
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYtCx5RV/IMG-2904.jpg)
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
The shop elves' goat better get a chomp on, by the look of it!
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happiness is a warm pile of swarf, at least until it becomes a fire hazard.. :stickpoke: wink wink nudge nudge...
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happiness is a warm pile of swarf,
In younger days after a very busy few days running a large Lehmann lathe, the pile of steel swarf would almost threaten to bury me like that, and I didn't feel happiness. Boot soles rarely lasted a full year in that shop, sometimes barely half that. :insane:
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The next step on the piston rod/hammer was to flatten the sides of the main shaft to match the shapes cut into the guides earlier
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPsBvrLS/IMG-2905.jpg)
then flatten the sides of the hammer end
(https://i.postimg.cc/63GgWyCQ/IMG-2906.jpg)
and finally mill in the square shape on the very end of the hammer
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvZMV8kF/IMG-2907.jpg)
Here the piston has been test fit into the gland and cylinder. The corners of the glands needed a little deburring and filing to get the piston to slide freely.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GtFfDV7w/IMG-2908.jpg)
Getting down to the last parts I can do before the column casting arrives - the control levers, base plate, and the anvil that the hammer comes down on. I picked up a thick steel bar to use as the base, the anvil will be cut out of offcuts from that. Oh, and the gaskets/packing. First I'll do the control levers...
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Looking very good Chris.
Just catching up and saw the comment about Claymills Pumping Station. It is about 20 miles away from me. I have only been the once and found it fascinating. Don't recollect the steam hammer. Will have to pay another visit. Last time I went I was asked to assist with the starting up of the big beam engine. Just amazing to see it running and how silent it is.
Colin
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: wow - you're movin right along! Should I call the foundry doing the column and tell em to git a move on? (or at least turn up the air blast on the cupola) :Lol:
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: wow - you're movin right along! Should I call the foundry doing the column and tell em to git a move on? (or at least turn up the air blast on the cupola) :Lol:
Send in the shop elves with pointy sticks to give them a poke in the right direction! :Lol:
They had said they expected the casting to be ready by around end of the month, which is now. All depends if that happened, and how they ship it. Post office over there is still farfled up, hope they use fedex or something instead. Still have some parts to make, I may wind up skipping ahead to the Ohio engine and coming back to the hammer.
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And when the large cast part arrives at your place, it has to lie outside in front of the house for a year before it is processed..... :Jester:
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And when the large cast part arrives at your place, it has to lie outside in front of the house for a year before it is processed..... :Jester:
I thought it was supposed to be hidden in a closet under a stuffed elephant? :lolb:
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don't worry about the shipping time,, the shippers have most likely started work on building the vessel that will deliver it..(or plan to get around to it) :facepalm:
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don't worry about the shipping time,, the shippers have most likely started work on building the vessel that will deliver it..(or plan to get around to it) :facepalm:
That launch model you are building is big enough to carry the casting... Is Slim getting his captains license?
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The hammer and gland look really great, Chris. I'm really looking forward to seeing it fitted to those castings. It's overall a really nice looking and interesting model. That C shape is really appealing, and it just seems like could be a fun toy to play wi.... I mean working historic demonstration model to have made! :cheers:
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The hammer and gland look really great, Chris. I'm really looking forward to seeing it fitted to those castings. It's overall a really nice looking and interesting model. That C shape is really appealing, and it just seems like could be a fun toy to play wi.... I mean working historic demonstration model to have made! :cheers:
Getting close to playtime, um, historic demonstration time! I picked up some non-vintage peanuts in the shell to pl... demonstrate with. :Lol: If the casting doesn't show up in time I may need to get another bag. :LickLips:
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Peanuts be damned. I want to see it crack some macadamias. Even the parrots won't touch those.
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Peanuts be damned. I want to see it crack some macadamias. Even the parrots won't touch those.
Those things are more suited as projectiles for a muzzle loader, aren't they?
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Got the control levers made - one is the hand lever to move the hammer, the other is an intermediate link that doubles as the auto shutoff at the top of the stroke when retracting the hammer. Both were milled out of some flat bar. Started with the hand lever, drilled the cross holes then turned the handle into the end on the lathe:
(https://i.postimg.cc/tRxBKzPZ/IMG-2911.jpg)
Then milled the sides down to dimension before angling in the other sides
(https://i.postimg.cc/4xJwhk0V/IMG-2912.jpg)
The finished levers
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2WmBFNd/IMG-2913.jpg)
Final parts I can make before the casting is the base and the anvil. Both were rough cut from a 1" thick flat bar of 1018 steel. Started on one end to mill in the step that forms the mounting flange to hold it to the base (or factory floor). Other end will get the same thing, then the top will get some raised areas for the column. Won't cut the raised area till I get the casting and I can measure its outline, the plans just show the dimensions for the hole locations for all parts, not the actual dimensions of all the faces on the pieces since they are assuming the plans are just used as part of the casting kit. A little hard to see in the picture, the step I am milling is pointed at by the red arrow.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Y1m6YKq/IMG-2914.jpg)
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I need to find a good website that shows seismograph read-outs for when you start testing that thing. Coming along great!
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Moving along, Chris! :popcorn:
So have you heard anything about them shipping your casting yet? Or are you settling in for another project while you wait the 2 years to receive your casting? :)
Kim
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the heck with all these nuts, lets get some stone crab claws ready for this machine :cheers:
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Moving along, Chris! :popcorn:
So have you heard anything about them shipping your casting yet? Or are you settling in for another project while you wait the 2 years to receive your casting? :)
Kim
Going to wait another week before pestering them again. So far they have been very responsive to emails, and they had said about now that the casting would be done. Unless its already on the way here (doubtful) I would expect that I'll be starting in on the Ohio engine when I finish this work on the base, then come back to it for the final column work and assembly, followed by scaring the shop elves in the middle of the night with Bigfoot calls and thumping 'footsteps'! :LittleDevil:
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I need to find a good website that shows seismograph read-outs for when you start testing that thing. Coming along great!
Doubt I'll be able to set off a volcano from this distance, but I'll give it a try! :ROFL:
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Scrape the red stuff off matches and wrap it in aluminum foil and then hammer it with it.
With friends we put it on the tram track when we were children.....
Nice lever you have built there.
Michael
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Scrape the red stuff off matches and wrap it in aluminum foil and then hammer it with it.
With friends we put it on the tram track when we were children.....
Nice lever you have built there.
Michael
It can be more fun to be a child when you are old enough to drive away from the scene of the fun, at high speed.... :LittleDevil:
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Re. the small upstand formed on the base casting that Stuart supply, which fits the cast column, would it be any use to you if I gave some measured details of my cast base ?, or would you feel happier anyway to leave the further bit of work until the casting actually materialises? Dave
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Re. the small upstand formed on the base casting that Stuart supply, which fits the cast column, would it be any use to you if I gave some measured details of my cast base ?, or would you feel happier anyway to leave the further bit of work until the casting actually materialises? Dave
That would be great! I could use that to finish up the base now. Most appreciated!!
:cheers:
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Got both ends notched for the mounting flange, and then used some parallels to raise up one edge at a time to let me put a slight angle on all four vertical faces
(https://i.postimg.cc/SKLWb8MW/IMG-2915.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvvWhcPj/IMG-2916.jpg)
Then used a small corner rounding end mill to ease the top corners all the way around. On the main top surface, I first used a square end mill to notch back the outer edges so the quarter-round would leave a better looking reveal line.
(https://i.postimg.cc/639CW3rF/IMG-2918.jpg)
Next will be to drill the mounting holes at either end...
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Highly impressed, Chris, by how this build is "forging" ahead! Really, it's marvellous , and ingenious also.
Have measured up the cast base with care. You can see how far CAD familiarity has progressed in this workshop... The datum for measurements along is the back hole drilled in the mounting lug. ( The horrible fractional inches will not please some discerning members..!! ) I have done all dimensions / holes, on this casting accurately according to the Stuart drawing, which I include because my engine is built from old, original, ST of Henley-on-Thames castings. Your more modern dwgs. I hope are the same, but might be best to correlate.
Any queries welcome . Dave
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I guess that you're refering to me .... and I will admit that 23/32" doesn't make me a happy camper .... as it requires a Calculator to find 18,25625mm. :Director:
And NO - that is not an error, as "," is the decimal sign in most of Continental Europe ;D
Per
ps still enjoying your build Chris :cheers:
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The feeling is mutual, Per, after all 18 millimeters is 25.1968/32nds :Jester:
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Highly impressed, Chris, by how this build is "forging" ahead! Really, it's marvellous , and ingenious also.
Have measured up the cast base with care. You can see how far CAD familiarity has progressed in this workshop... The datum for measurements along is the back hole drilled in the mounting lug. ( The horrible fractional inches will not please some discerning members..!! ) I have done all dimensions / holes, on this casting accurately according to the Stuart drawing, which I include because my engine is built from old, original, ST of Henley-on-Thames castings. Your more modern dwgs. I hope are the same, but might be best to correlate.
Any queries welcome . Dave
Thanks very much Dave, that's very helpful!! I can do a lot more before waiting for the casting for the column - will double-check your drawing with the modern one just to be sure but it all looks the same to me.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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The feeling is mutual, Per, after all 18 millimeters is 25.1968/32nds :Jester:
At least its not in furlongs! :ROFL:
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Hmm.....a digital caliper could probably be programmed and have a button to show dimensions in decimal furlongs and fathoms ......could be the next big thing on Amazoon! :Lol:
I still have an old 6" toolroom steel rule marked down to 128ths of an inch. counting out 97/128ths gives you a quick appreciation of the humble digital caliper! :cheers:
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Highly impressed, Chris, by how this build is "forging" ahead! Really, it's marvellous , and ingenious also.
Have measured up the cast base with care. You can see how far CAD familiarity has progressed in this workshop... The datum for measurements along is the back hole drilled in the mounting lug. ( The horrible fractional inches will not please some discerning members..!! ) I have done all dimensions / holes, on this casting accurately according to the Stuart drawing, which I include because my engine is built from old, original, ST of Henley-on-Thames castings. Your more modern dwgs. I hope are the same, but might be best to correlate.
Any queries welcome . Dave
Just compared your plans with the ones I have, everything on the ST plans match, so I am going to use your additional measurements for the platforms & such - thanks very much!
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Hi All, the more accurate you measure to ..AKA the more decimal places you use , the bigger the finished item becomes ??!! :lolb: :ROFL: ;). nice model ...
Willy
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Hi All, the more accurate you measure to ..AKA the more decimal places you use , the bigger the finished item becomes ??!! :lolb: :ROFL: ;) . nice model ...
Willy
Or round up to the nearest foot.. !
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The feeling is mutual, Per, after all 18 millimeters is 25.1968/32nds
Huh? 18 mm is 22.68/32 in. 18/25.4 * 32 = 22.68
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I blame the computer....... :Lol:
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All those feets of engineering were British and American, and all those miles/mills of European ... //?!
Willy
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I still vaguely remember an early problem sheet at uni. To get us used to the dimensions of viscosity we were given some conversions to do. One was, IIRC, to ton acres per fortnight.
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I still vaguely remember an early problem sheet at uni. To get us used to the dimensions of viscosity we were given some conversions to do. One was, IIRC, to ton acres per fortnight.
To calculate the dispersion of slurry on a farmer's field, maybe? :Lol:
Regards, Steve
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I've always liked Furlongs Per Fortnite.
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It's called units analysis. Multiply/divide the units to obtain the desired converted units. Then plug in the numbers corresponding to each conversion and the answer falls out.
furlong/mile = 8
hour/fortnight = 14 * 24 = 336
mph = furlong/fortnight / (8 furlong/mile) * 14*24 hour/fortnight) = furlong/fortnight / 2688 = 3.72E-4 * furlong/fortnight
In words...
Dividing by 8 furlong/mile produces miles/fortnight; the furlongs cancel out. Dividing that result by 336 hour/fortnight produces miles/hour
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Milled the platform in to the top of the base for the column to sit on
(https://i.postimg.cc/1ztcFbDY/IMG-2919.jpg)
Then got the anvil for the steam hammer made, will wait till the column is up to attach it to the base so I can ensure that it is centered under the hammer accurately. Started with an offcut from the bar the base was made from, rough sawn to shape, and started whittling it down...
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9L6ngn6/IMG-2920.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yNbhynP6/IMG-2922.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCLpRtwR/IMG-2923.jpg)
This is about as far as I can take this build till the column casting shows up. I'll ping them during the coming week and see how the casting went.
So, this project is stalled there for now. Great progress so far, the last steps should go quick - just a matter of cleaning up the casting, drilling its holes and the mounting holes in the other parts, and making the final link bars.
In the meantime, I am going to switch over to the Ohio battleship engine...
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Nice looking base, Chris! Did you use steel for the base? :popcorn:
Getting ready to switch channels over to the Ohio build!
Kim
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Nice looking base, Chris! Did you use steel for the base? :popcorn:
Getting ready to switch channels over to the Ohio build!
Kim
Yes - the base and the anvil are from a 1" bar of 1018 steel.
I have the materials for the Ohio base, am finalizing plans for the milling jigs then will start in!
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
The base and cylinder assembly (aka the ultimate shop elf power pogo stick) look great!
See you in Ohio (engine thread).
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Good news - just heard from Stuart-Turner, the column casting has shipped, looks like I'll have it early next week. :cartwheel:
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Great! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Wow! You weren't able to complete the Ohio before they shipped it! That's pretty good :Lol:
Kim
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Wow! You weren't able to complete the Ohio before they shipped it! That's pretty good :Lol:
Kim
He's fast Kim, but he ain't THAT fast! :ROFL:
That's great news Chris! :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks guys! I am looking forward to seeing this one hammering out some bar stock. Or elf toes. At least some peanuts!
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If you choose your victim carefully, it should do a respectable job. I seem to recall a guy over on the Mamod forum building a trip hammer that was powered by a Mamod line shaft. I did a decent job of flattening soft solder. These hammers were/are mainly used hot but I imagine that annealed copper or brass could be worked cold for a little while.
Now if you trust those elves around fire I SUPPOSE you could fire up the forge and work HOT, but good luck explaining that one to the insurance adjustor.
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First thing this morning Fedex sent an email saying the package would arrive tomorrow as expected. Clicked on the tracking link, and it said it was out for delivery today. :headscratch: Anyway, great news! Just heard a commotion at the front door, the shop elves dragged in the box and started digging in:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MWXt6FT/IMG-2963.jpg)
and ran down the hall to the shop with it:
(https://i.postimg.cc/85tpyZjY/IMG-2965.jpg)
It looks good, no flaws, mold lines line up pretty well, and a quick file test shows its not hardened. :cartwheel:
So, the Ohio engine is on hold for a few days while I dive back and finish up the steam hammer! :whoohoo:
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that makes a Monday a little better :popcorn: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
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That's good news! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Excellent way to start a week! New castings! (I'm sure Jo would agree ;D)
Kim
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I don't think it's right that you let the Elfen workshop mount the hammer without a proper scaffolding. Where's the security inspector?
Nice that the construction is now coming to an end and in the future the crankshafts will no longer be glued but forged.
Michael
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Thanks guys!
Already started shaping the upper end (pictures later), and am doing some casting fondling to decide how to hold it to mill the base on it to smooth out the bottom surface to sit flat on the base plate. Digging plates/vises/clamps out of the drawer to play around with different methods. :noidea:
Michael, I ordered the casting from Europe, but paid extra so they would not send over the flock (herd, gaggle, whatever) of Health And Safety Ninnies to go with it. :ShakeHead: :Lol:
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I was able to find a spot on the column where I could hold it steady and level in the mill vise, and took some trueing cuts on the upper end, then drilled for the mounting bolts to hold the cylinder assembly:
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZ5TCdZy/IMG-2966.jpg)
The base needed some levelling - there was one corner too thick that needed a few passes on the mill, took some fiddling around to find a spot where I could clamp it level and support it against the cutter.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6prf8Z73/IMG-2967.jpg)
Holding it by the upper end with the base up in the air would have needed a lot more work to make some sort of holding block, and the bottom face was only a little bit uneven, so I just took it to the disc sander and smoothed it out till it sat down flat on the base plate. I'll use the drill press and its bigger vise to drill the mounting holes, then transfer those locations to the base plate.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpqCxpW9/IMG-2968.jpg)
Holding up the cylinder to the column above the anvil, and its clear that the anvil I made is too tall to take advantage of anything like the full stroke on the piston. It matches the dimension on the drawing, but it could stand to be about an inch shorter. That would allow more travel on the piston, while still not bottoming it out when touching the anvil. So, next time I'll get the mounting holes in the base of the column and the baseplate drilled, and also drill the mounting holes in the flange on the cylinder. Then will trim down the anvil.
:cheers:
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isn't there meant to be a hole in the base so the anvil sits down solidly on whatever you have the model mounted on, seem to remember reading that somewhere. If you are mounting it on top then thickness of base needs to be deducted from what is on the drawing
EDIT, read the design bit
http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html
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isn't there meant to be a hole in the base so the anvil sits down solidly on whatever you have the model mounted on, seem to remember reading that somewhere. If you are mounting it on top then thickness of base needs to be deducted from what is on the drawing
EDIT, read the design bit
http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html (http://stuartturnersteam.com/Machines/Hammer/Hammer.html)
OOOOHHHHH! :wallbang:
Now I understand! When I looked at the plans, I saw the rectangular hole, and just assumed :facepalm2: that the hole was there to save metal on the casting, and the anvil covered it up. I had looked at other builds, but didnt see that detail.
Thanks very much for pointing that out! I was really confused as to why the height was off so much on the piston travel, and just wrote it off as a boo-boo in the dimensions.
Take two shop elves out of petty cash! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Hi, glad that the column turned up without too great a delay, and the casting looks quite a good one. Jason is absolutely right, the rectangular hole in the base casting is there to post the anvil lump through, so that it sits on the "floor" that the base casting is bolted to, there is a small gap around the anvil. So that the cast base does not take the mighty impact forces as the hammer thunders down....! The Stuart anvil casting is a little tapered and rounded below the actual anvil. I did the mod shown in my earlier post, of making the anvil a separate steel piece held by a tapered wedge, which looks prototypical and gives the hammer a bit more visual interest, I think. Dave
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Moving along on the hammer build, the column mounting holes through the base and column are all drilled, and I've started cutting the hole in the base for the anvil to come through. Lot of material to remove, so I have started chain drilling around the perimeter. The location was found by test assembling the column/cylinder, and lining up the anvil with the bottom of the hammer block.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ht2khsCD/IMG-2969.jpg)
Some more holes to drill, connect the dots with the mill and clean up the edges, and I'll start in on the last of the linkages. I need to drill the hole through the side of the column for the middle pivot rod, and measure/cut the vertical rod...
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Hole for pivot rod drilled and levers installed...
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNgwZVcB/IMG-2970.jpg)
Now I need to make up the gaskets and get the cylinder/steam chest to final assembly so I can measure for and finish the vertical valve rod from the lever up to the steam chest. Also have to decide if I am going to paint the cylinder - grey to be like cast iron?
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Grey, yes. And you will do a proper paint job on the casting?
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Grey, yes. And you will do a proper paint job on the casting?
Define proper? Some particular color? I am open to suggestions!
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Was just doing some work on getting the control lever hooked up, and found that I needed to take back the edge of the opening on the top of the casting where the rod goes through. All fine except one little spot right in the middle of the opening where there was a hard spot that the end mill just polished rather than chewing through easily like everywhere else. Figures that it would be in the one spot needing to be removed rather than the portion next to it that I took down just to make an even edge!
So, up to the air rotary tool with a diamond coated bur, chewed out that little spot in a few minutes. It was only 1/16" across, but Murphy says it is Right There.
Also got a start on the gaskets, more on it tomorrow...
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How about Bentjamin Moo "Industrial Splendor" for a colour? (Described as "Reminiscent of lightly rusted cast iron with 90 weight oil splashed over thin red lead primer and iron scale dust" in their brochure for metal paint) :Lol:
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How about Bentjamin Moo "Industrial Splendor" for a colour? (Described as "Reminiscent of lightly rusted cast iron with 90 weight oil splashed over thin red lead primer and iron scale dust" in their brochure for metal paint) :Lol:
A division of Drunken Shop Elf Industries?
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This is the "proper" color:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3c/Steam_hammer%2C_rear_face%2C_Griffithstown.jpg/472px-Steam_hammer%2C_rear_face%2C_Griffithstown.jpg?20091202182758)
(https://www.anyanghammer.com/d/file/2020-04-18/27927f653d75695a87a9314f7128cac8.jpg)
(https://www.sredmond.com/srhacksaw/OrangeHammer.jpeg)
(https://media.tenor.com/kPIS-7hq-XoAAAAd/steam-hammer-hammer.gif)
(https://i0.wp.com/mccreathfamily.scot/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Wes-Steam-Hammer-e1517491039698.jpg?resize=600%2C450&ssl=1)
(https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Flive.staticflickr.com%2F6038%2F5878876882_6360a59f45_b.jpgsp=1676416366Taa74e69d2c1c0eadb4682cbde3d33e2dc12acf9ef9c944dbfc65ef96fa65f2a9)
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I kinda prefer the grey for this one. In the factories I worked in, the only time anything got nice paint was when some muckitymuck in a suit was about to get a tour.
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Then grey is the best color! :cheers:
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Yoo betcha re DSEI ! They've got their fingers in a lot of pies (and paint cans) :Lol:
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Yoo betcha re DSEI ! They've got their fingers in a lot of pies (and paint cans) :Lol:
All those little elf shoeprints leading out of the paintbooth... :hellno:
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Then grey is the best color! :cheers:
It's my hammer and I'll paint it if I want to... (Get THAT song out of your head!) :LittleDevil:
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Grey, yes. And you will do a proper paint job on the casting?
Define proper? Some particular color? I am open to suggestions!
By proper I mean fettled, filled, cut back, and enough coats applied and rubbed down until there is no evidence of its foundry origin. With the Stuart hammer in particular, I think it makes all the difference. But I don't think it wants a high gloss.
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Grey, yes. And you will do a proper paint job on the casting?
Define proper? Some particular color? I am open to suggestions!
By proper I mean fettled, filled, cut back, and enough coats applied and rubbed down until there is no evidence of its foundry origin. With the Suart hammer in particular, I think it makes all the difference. But I don't think it wants a high gloss.
Nope. Not my style.
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Got the hammer done, ready for testing! The cylinder has been painted, and the last link installed on the control levers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8wSBgsS/IMG-2972.jpg)
Here is a short video of it hammering on some thick wall tube, flattening the end, then some playtime with a roll of caps from a kids capgun:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BczYjURdqCk
And as somewhat expected, I left the room for a moment, and came back to find the shop elves violating all the lockout-tagout rules and testing the valve! Its hard to re-inflate a shop elf... :facepalm2: :Jester:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wGMBJPy/IMG-2978.jpg)
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Excellent! Well done, Chris. I thought I saw a little blip on the seismograph. :cheers:
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Why is my coffee cup jumping off the desk???? Oh wait..... :Lol:
Re the re-inflation - maybe plumb in a draft keg of Elfensteiner and tap it right down the pie hole!
Nice cap to the build! Great to see it working. The paint looks excellent too. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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I think that's just the proper way to safety test a hard hat, if I remember correctly. :Doh:
You know, with the new guy.....
Great action, great steam hammer, great project! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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Beautiful model and great video, Chris! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Are you going to crack some nuts with it? I'd love to see a video of that too! :stickpoke:
Kim
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That worked very nicely :ThumbsUp: .... but if you will be 'Nut-Cracking' - then a slight increase in air-pressure perhaps ;)
Thank you for the fine build, story and all :cheers:
Per
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looks great,, so does this mean the battleship engine should be done sometime next week.. ::)
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Once the Elves get to know you intend to crack nuts with it they will keep well away :-[
Out of interest what pressure were you using when squashing the pipe?
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Yesterday at Stuart in the cast iron sand and today already crushing workshop elves😁.
A very nice steam hammer. You did it well 👍
Michael
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Once the Elves get to know you intend to crack nuts with it they will keep well away :-[
Out of interest what pressure were you using when squashing the pipe?
It was about 50 psi. Haven't tried shelling peanuts yet, was out at lunch with friends, will do that later when I get hungry again! The speed of the hammer varies a lot depending on how far and fast the lever is moved. It comes down pretty hard, wouldn't want to get a finger in the way!
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looks great,, so does this mean the battleship engine should be done sometime next week.. ::)
Well, it will be done in 'A' week. I'm not guessing which one though! :Lol:
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That worked very nicely :ThumbsUp: .... but if you will be 'Nut-Cracking' - then a slight increase in air-pressure perhaps ;)
Thank you for the fine build, story and all :cheers:
Per
I don't have any walnuts or any of the hard ones, just some peanuts, this will be plenty for those, don't want to make peanut butter! :Lol:
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Well, we had a celebrity stop by the workshop. We got to break Mr Peanuts, um, nuts! :LittleDevil:
(https://i.postimg.cc/CKZ02pQ8/IMG-2980.jpg)
Turns out the hammer is way plenty to break peanut shells, inlet valve just 'cracked' open and a light hit did the job! :lolb:
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mr peanuts last words, "see you in a jiff" :Lol:
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That guy's always in a jam. :ShakeHead:
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A lot more practice and went through a bag of Mr Peanuts' relatives, and I learned how to forge weld them into a peanut block! Elfy Snacks for everyone! :lolb:
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXctJWXc/IMG-2984.jpg)
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Hope the forging didn't make them too brittle......... :facepalm: :Lol:
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Hope the forging didn't make them too brittle......... :facepalm: :Lol:
The oil from the piston rod gives it a nice tang! :Lol:
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:Lol: :cheers:
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On to the Black Walnuts??
ShopShoe
Oh NO.... You'll have to fight over those with the squirrels instead of the elves.
SS
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On to the Black Walnuts??
ShopShoe
Oh NO.... You'll have to fight over those with the squirrels instead of the elves.
SS
There are some walnut trees up at the end of my street somewhere, I occasionally see the squirrels carrying them past my house to bury. Think the neighbors would give me strange looks if I was stalking behind a squirrel while dressed like Elmer Fudd? :ROFL:
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Chris, get with the program, Elmer only stalks wabbits and MAYBE once in a while ducks - never squiwwels.
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Think the neighbors would give me strange looks if I was stalking behind a squirrel while dressed like Elmer Fudd? :ROFL:
:lolb: :ROFL: :lolb: :ROFL: :lolb:
Thank you for that Picture :Jester:
Per
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Chris, get with the program, Elmer only stalks wabbits and MAYBE once in a while ducks - never squiwwels.
Okay, so here's a challenge. Say 'Squiwwels' three times fast! :ROFL:
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I tried it in the checkout line at Home Depot. Police just dropped me off back home, after a fun game called "risk assessment". :Lol: :shrug:
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I tried it in the checkout line at Home Depot. Police just dropped me off back home, after a fun game called "risk assessment". :Lol: :shrug:
They'll be back when you have to steal a car to go back and get yours... :ROFL:
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Whenever I think of squiwwels, I can't help but chuckle and remember Ira Glass's "Squirrel Cop" episode of This American Life on the radio from many years ago. One of the wildest, funniest, 14 minute radio stories, ever.
The moral....do not, under any circumstances, mess with squirrels.
I think you can hear it here:
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/115/first-day/act-two-0
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Wile. E. Coyote couldn't take out a bird, and we take on squirrels...
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Anybody else watch Mark Rober's squirrel Olympics on YouTube? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg5wznn3IBE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg5wznn3IBE)
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Excellent as ever :praise2: :praise2: I can see a lot of fun being had with that hammer :) :) :wine1: