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From Kits/Castings / Re: Forest 1889 6 cyl Marine Engine
« Last post by Kim on Today at 05:19:14 PM »
Embedding the nuts like that is a neat idea!  I'm not much up on 3D printing, but will likely get into it someday.  This is all very fascinating!

Tooling & Machines / Re: Another small radius pipe bender
« Last post by Kim on Today at 05:14:37 PM »
Yes!  Really appreciate the detailed step-by-step on how you use it.  Very helpful!
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale
« Last post by Roger B on Today at 05:01:36 PM »
A plumber's nightmare  ::) Crack a critical pipe and goodbye engine  :toilet_claw:

Excellent work  :ThumbsUp: The second one will be much easier  :Lol:
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale
« Last post by tvoght on Today at 04:59:49 PM »
Absolutely fascniating. And beautiful work.   --Tim
Your Own Design / Re: Small Heat Treat Oven
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 04:37:38 PM »
The frame that supports the heat treat oven is finished. It is fully welded and even painted. The old Lincoln A.C. welder even got a new handle out of the deal.--It had a handle on it to move it around years ago, but for some reason I had cut  the handle off, and I can't remember why. The next stage of this game is going to involve figuring out the control for the oven. It is intimidating because it has to be programed, and I haven't got the faintest idea how to do that. I have two pages of instructions that came with the controller, and I think they are written in ancient Greek or one of the "dead languages".
Your Own Design / Re: Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine in 1:3 scale
« Last post by Vixen on Today at 04:20:27 PM »
As Kim intimated, the pipe bender discussion and it's operation has been moved to,10352.msg236219/topicseen.html#new    where it is receiving a lot of interest from both Steam and i/c engine builders.

In the mean time, I have pressed ahead and attempted the 'snake pit' of plumbing inside the dry sump of the first W165 engine. I all went reasonably well, however most bits of pipe had to be attempted several times as I experimented to get the perfect distance between consecutive bends. I quickly discovered that because of local work hardening, it was virtually impossible to correct a slightly misplaced bend. Better to start again with a new length of annealed copper pipe. Lots of copper pipe was consumed in the process and the scrap bin is a lot fuller as a result.

I became so carried way that I completely forgot the camera and so only have the completed work to show you.

The first picture shows an overview of the bottom of the engine and the dry sump cover. Note the baffle plate around part of the dry sump, it was there to prevent the waste oil slopping arround during tight cornering, acceleration and braking

This close up shows the pipework in more detail. The larger 5.0 mm pipes handle (on the left) the fresh oil coming from the external supply tank, (on the right) the scavenged oil outgoing to the oil cooler and filters and (in the centre) the drain pipe from the front scavenge pick up (not yet made). You can also see the smaller 2.3 mm pipes which feed oil from the oil pump to each of the five main bearings. The bend radius of the 2.3 mm pipe are large compared to the pipe diameter and were formed by bending the pipe around the outside of a 16 mm diameter bar.

The battery of oil pumps have already been described, a long time ago, in section 10, which started at reply #191. You will recall, there are a number of pumps, both pressure and scavenge pumps mounted together 'en block' onto the rear main bearing cap. The bronze block on the left of the pump block, together with the first thin aluminium section act as a manifold to direct the oil flows to the various individual pump sections. The first wide section is the pressure pump which provides pressure fed oil to the five main bearing caps. The next slightly thinner pump section provides pressure oil to the four overhead cam shafts. After that is a slightly wider pump section which scavenges used oil from the front of the dry sump. That is followed by the rear sump scavenge pump section with an integral pick up strainer. At the extreme right are the pressure and scavenge pipe connections to the four overhead camshafts. This pipework will be added later in the build.

The next two photos compare the 1/3 scale model with the full size engine. It realy is a 'snake pit' of pipes and snake oil. There is evidence in the full size engine of numerous repairs to the pipes, possibly as a result of vibration and metal fatigue.

                                                                                                                                           This image, is courtesy of Daimler Benz.

Now I have to repeat all of that on the second engine


From Plans / Re: Elmer's Oscillating Cylinder Engine #42
« Last post by RReid on Today at 03:31:55 PM »
Your use of CA and tape for work holding is clever. I've used CA for holding blanks in wood turning, but never in metal work. I'll keep that idea in mind! I have used carpet tape on a mill table for fly cutting and light grooving of plastic and graphite. Worked well for that, but cleaning off the goo was a pain, and I wouldn't trust it for heavier work.
From Plans / Re: Elmer's Oscillating Cylinder Engine #42
« Last post by RReid on Today at 03:02:16 PM »
Might be a good time to add a Tilting Angle Table to your tooling:

That's one of the handy Sherline accessories I just got. They were part of the Sale of the Month, last month. Sorry Eric. :ShakeHead:

The trig and shim method is potentially very precise, if done carefully. For the cosmetic job at hand you could get away with less careful but still with good results.
From Kits/Castings / Re: Forest 1889 6 cyl Marine Engine
« Last post by maury on Today at 02:55:35 PM »
Dave, thanks for the comment.
yes, the Cura slicer allows various macros to be included in the G-Code. The pause macro is set up to retract the print head, park it at a programmable destination, and resume with a button click.

I initially wanted to use something like heli-coils, but I was unable to find them in 2-56. I could get small metric ones, but then I was unable to find same size metric hex bolts... Thus the embedded nuts. There may be places on the heads of this model where I'll need 1-72 or even 0-80. That being the case, I may just need to use alignment pins and glue.. yuk...

I haven't tried to tap these small holes in plastic, but I suspect it will not end well.

From Kits/Castings / Re: Forest 1889 6 cyl Marine Engine
« Last post by Dave Otto on Today at 02:33:34 PM »
That looks good Maury!

So you put a pause in the program that allows you to place the nuts, then continue? I think our Stratasys machines here at work will do that but I have never tried it.
I have used a number of Heli-Coils in printed parts and that is also another good option for stronger threads.

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