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yes i have an independent 4 jaw chuck. I've seen the dial gauges used and wanted to avoid more money. I know there's a cheap version some diy with a solid bar and stand that users probe for runout with instead. i will probably go that route.
i thought that turning between centers in a 4 jaw would work, especially if the turning holes were deeper from cranking the tail stock down.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Stuart Triple Expansion
« Last post by jwloach on Today at 12:27:27 PM »
Wow! I've got a lot to learn! My grandfather made two other Stuart models, and my Dad made a Rider-Ericcson engine from Myers Engineworks in 1998. None have run on steam, but that would be a worthwhile project. Thank you all for your encouragement and thoughts.
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Specific Engine Help / Re: Gas Needle Valve for Stuart 800
« Last post by pirmin on Today at 11:58:19 AM »
hy, a sharp needle would do the trick, just like model aero engine carb needles i would say.
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Casting / Re: Ball Hopper Monitor Patterns/Castings Attempt
« Last post by Casting Iron on Today at 11:16:32 AM »
Here is a photo that shows the ridge one the top inside of the governor weight.

.
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From Plans / Re: Mount Trapezium
« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 11:14:02 AM »
Excellent, a couple of options to think about.....let me see if I have a suitable piece of stock!
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Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello from Canada
« Last post by Roger B on Today at 11:10:25 AM »
Welcome to the Forum  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:

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Specific Engine Help / Gas Needle Valve for Stuart 800
« Last post by BGH on Today at 10:21:17 AM »
I would like to make a finely adjustable gas needle valve and would value some pointers as to the design. Its for a small gas engine, Stuart 800.
The mixer shown seems to work OK on another engine, even if its lacking in its visual refinement.
I need a fine thread, BA, BSB or ME no problem.
Now should the threaded brass part be bottoming out when screwed fully in, or more likely the needle itself??
In this example the needle is 1.8mm dia, so drill a hole that diameter with a standard drill bit ?, or should the tip of the needle seat into a matching tapered hole?
Should the needle have a longer taper? Ideal material for this?
Is this a good basic design, or are there published designs/ sketches available?
Any help gratefully received.
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From Plans / Re: Mount Trapezium
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 10:07:56 AM »
Thats the right method

To hold them I would face a bit of 1/2" stock, turn a snug fitting spigot on the end about 2mm long and then drill and tap say M4. You can then centre up your 3-jaw chuck on the rotary table and grip your new arbor with the crank arm screwed to it with a cap screw and washer and mill one end. swap over and mill the other. Not too heavy a cut as the forces want to undo the screw.

Other options are to clamp a bit of scrap bar to the R/T drill and tap one central hole and other your crank throw apart. Then screw crank to that, cut one end and then swap over.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Stuart Triple Expansion
« Last post by AVTUR on Today at 10:05:49 AM »
My grandfather ran the engine with compressed air, but he had to remove all the piston rings to make it cycle easily enough. Perhaps he didn't let it 'run-in' long enough. I'll start the reassembly after freshening up the paint on the base and cyclinder housings.

The problem with running a triple on compressed air, is air does not behave the same as steam.   The available expansion of compressed air in the 120 psi range is quite limited compared to that of steam.  The result is the IP and LP cylinders will over expand the be operating under a vacuum, in opposition to the HP ( high pressure) cylinder.    This results in lumpy running   if you open the drain cocks on the IP and LP it will help a lot,   Additionally, you could run some compressed air to the IP and LP.

Dave


Does the engine have a simpling valve? This is a valve that allows high pressure steam to be fed into the valve chest of a lower pressure cylinder. It is used to start the engine when the high pressure piston is close to top or bottom dead centre. Without it the engine may not start. One can be made and fitted with ease.

AVTUR
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From Kits/Castings / Re: Model Engineer Beam Engine - Reeves Kit
« Last post by Michael S. on Today at 09:29:22 AM »
Hello Stuart,
I'm glad you're continuing to work on the engine. The new cylinder head cover is a good idea.

When I place the cylinder head under the beam, it's also slightly off-center from the rounded space on the aluminum base.


Michael
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