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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 01:30:33 PM »that will be plenty.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 01:30:33 PM »that will be plenty.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 01:07:54 PM »That looks nice, very neat .....here's hoping for a similar result.
I have now cut the chamfer and looking at the milling stage and wondering how far to cut in to make the 4 flutes. My diameter is 0.606" so the red line (depth) on the diagram will be 0.303", but the orange line which is the horizontal distance has to clear pilot section so maybe 0.200" from the centre line? 3
Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 12:23:01 PM »These were on Wayne Grennings FB page this morning, gives an idea of how a guided cutter will true up the seat. This is an old full size engine where the guide was worn so that was trued and reamed and then the cutter used to do the seat. First pic shows a light cut indicating how off the seat is.
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Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 07:07:31 AM »Just swing the topslide to 45deg moving the handwheel towards the rear of the lathe as you don't need tailstock support for this cut. Set toolpost back to usual square on position and then cut using the topslide to move the tool and cross slide to put on the cut.
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Vehicles & Models / OKMO Microcosm Model M31 Vertical Steam Engine Single Cylinder with DIY Mods« Last post by Jim on Today at 01:03:50 AM »OKMO Microcosm Model M31 Vertical Steam Engine Single Cylinder
First run on live steam of this beautiful brass casted vertical steam engine. Really happy with DIY Modifications that I did and the two timber plinths. Made lots of items using my metal lathe and milling machine. The condenser pot was made using three copper plumbing items cut down on the bandsaw, turned on the lathe and drilling and tapping on the milling machine. The inline lubricator needed a complete rebuild and needed to be silver brazed back together. Not sure if the lubricator was made by Stuarts in the U.K or not, I made a new screw top for it and knurled it and put an Australian Miniature Steam Models MSM turn wheel on. 6
Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 12:53:25 AM »Thanks Dave
It's late here and my brain is not quite in gear! ![]() 7
Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by Dave Otto on Today at 12:47:24 AM »Yes, but if you use a boring bar you will set the compound at 45 and feed the tool back and forth with the compound slide, while using either the X or Z to increment into the cut. this way you are never cutting the full width of the finished face. So only a normal cutting tip is needed, small radius for a good finish. The tool if fed from the front using the cross feed or Z feed then you would need a tool or insert ground to or set at 45 degrees to the part.
I hope this makes some sense. Dave 8
Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by redhouseluv on Today at 12:35:36 AM »My diagram is terrible, but do you mean like this?
Do all boring bars have a 45 degree cutting face or will I have to get a specific one? 9
Restoration of Model Engines / Re: Project Centaur« Last post by Dave Otto on Today at 12:17:59 AM »Most times when I need to cut a chamfer, I will use a boring bar on the back side of the part and run the lathe in reverse. As long as your chuck is not threaded on, which mine is not.
Also a tool ground at a 45 can be plunged in from the front and I do do this as well, but the boring bar will give a better finish. Dave 10
Your Own Design / Re: Simple wobbler« Last post by redhouseluv on February 06, 2025, 11:30:07 PM »Nice bit of recycling!
Now that's what I call rusted ![]() |