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Your Own Design / Re: 4 cylinder rotary valve
« Last post by Sanjay F on Today at 12:10:10 PM »
Fantastic Andrew - you have made great progress, I look forward to following this interesting build  :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by Sanjay F on Today at 12:02:33 PM »
I'm having my usual trouble interpreting drawings. The pedestal says a no.43 which is close to 8BA? And as for the valve body I can't tell??

Actually it looks like I have to make a plate to support the valve and then mount that to the base?
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Your Own Design / 4 cylinder rotary valve
« Last post by astroud on Today at 11:53:44 AM »
This is my own design which I have been building for the last few months. It is a bit of scrap box special, hence the cylinders made from 22mm copper pipe. The crankshaft runs on skateboard 8mm ball races and has a centre plain bearing.
I am planning a single rotary valve driven at half speed by a timing belt, going to mock it first before  cutting metal to make sure of the concept. One concern is that there will be too much friction from the shaft and belt drive for the engine to overcome, we shall see.

Andrew
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 11:46:52 AM »
I would just tap them for some studs, if you need a bit of wiggle room put oversize holes in the valve block & trunion bearing.

At 3/32" I would say 7BA, what does the bearing block show as a hole size in it's feet
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by Sanjay F on Today at 11:20:47 AM »
Square holes???? Are they really necessary? Seems like a lot of faff for what return? I've looked at Jo's build (see last pic) and it appears she thought the same .............

Maybe a hole which is 3/32" or 8BA clear will be suitable?

EDIT: actually looks bigger maybe 5BA?
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Chatterbox / Re: Stuart Turner Sandhurst Engine
« Last post by peahead on Today at 10:42:25 AM »
Hi All,

Well it’s been 8 years since this original post, and I would have loved to have come back with a fully working engine to show you all, but life got in the way, and I’m thinking I don’t have the skills, tools nor time to ever get started on this.

I have to ask, and apologies if this is frowned upon/strange question, but does this have any value as it stands? If it’s sufficiently low it might force me to do something with it (it definitely won’t be scrapped!)
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 08:11:49 AM »
Set the flywheel to run as best as possible to the inside edge of the rim as you won't be turning that. This applies to a chuck as well as a faceplate.

When you flip the flywheel over you don't really need it perfectly concentric as you are only making facing cuts. If you do need to clock it in then a dti on the machined face and a few gentle taps will do it if you just nip up the clamping screws.

As for polishing the rim, I would think this engine originally ran a separate belt pully so the flywheel would have been completely painted
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by Sanjay F on Today at 07:23:25 AM »
No problem Paul.

I've not had issues with flywheels since my early days, this one is particularly gritty and probably making it the way I have has exacerbated the problem. It'll be fine, if you look this the 'new' replacement flywheel and its still fairly porous along the spokes!  ::)

So inside jaws and machine outer rim, face edge, centre boss and drill/ream centre in one go, then flip over and face the other edges still held by the rim? If using a f/plate I guess you have to find the best position of the outer edge by dialing in. I'm always worried I wont find the same position when I flip it over?
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From Kits/Castings / Re: B.Hick & Son oscillating engine
« Last post by PaulR on Today at 07:04:24 AM »
Quote from: Jasonb on May 18, 2026, 08:39:35 PM
Holding by the inside of the rim or mounted on a faceplate should help reduce those chatter marks you are getting.
I bet that would stop the noise as well. I've had the same problem when machining solid flywheels even in the 2" range when mounted on a stub mandrel - I guess putting a large 'washer' packing piece slightly smaller than the OD between the chuck jaws and the work piece might help when a faceplate can't be used.

Sorry to hijack the thread Sanjay! I'm sure the f/w will be fine after some polishing, finders crossed the other parts are better.
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Your Own Design / Re: Chris's Diesbar Engine Build
« Last post by kvom on Today at 04:39:40 AM »
This one might take a while. 
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