You're moving along on this quickly, Ron!Kim, whats it take to stress relieve crs? I've done it for brass, don't know the process for cold rolled.
Did you do any stress relieving on your cold rolled steel? If not, you might want to do that. It can have a tendency to go banana shaped when you machine it. I also know that some people just make it then bend it back straight again after machining. That hasn't worked as well for me, but some people seem to do it OK.
Kim
Kim, whats it take to stress relieve crs? I've done it for brass, don't know the process for cold rolled.
Did you do any stress relieving on your cold rolled steel?Hi Kim. No, I didn't, at least not yet. I had meant to order a bar of hot-rolled, but through an act of carelessness ordered cold-rolled instead. Now that I've got it I'm using it as a "learning opportunity". It's a smallish part, not expensive, not terribly time intensive, so I think I'll plunge ahead and find out for myself what happens.
Kim, whats it take to stress relieve crs? I've done it for brass, don't know the process for cold rolled.
Ron, you mentioned you had intended to buy hot-rolled instead. Does the hot-rolled version not need stress relieving like cold-rolled does?That's right. the cold rolling process itself introduces most of the stress we're talking about needing to relieve. On the other hand, in hot-rolling the temperatures involved are high enough that (1) the material is in a more malleable state during forming, and (2) the stress-relieving step is accomplished by default. I think there are still some stresses locked in, but far less and so less of an issue. But you are left with that ugly and often troublesome surface scale.
There is also something called stress-free steel available, but apparently only in round bar form. Brian Rupnow has discussed using it to good effect for crankshafts, but it does require extra work to produce a flat bar.
I don't think I've seen this engine before. I like it.Thanks Dave. I'm surprised you haven't seen it, it's been around quite awhile. Dates on the drawing pages range from 1977 - 2001. The version I'm doing was featured in ModelTec magazine March and April of 1999.
Per my usual lately, I got so wrapped up in working and having a good time that once again I forgot to take many process. Just this one, of the second side getting milled flat. :shrug:
I figured a good next job would be to top the cylinder with a cylinder head. Basically a straight forward turning and drilling operation. I planned from the beginning to go with the side mounted spark plug option, but I haven't drilled the spark plug hole yet, preferring to wait until I have the plug on hand, or at least know for sure what plug I'm going to use.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GmcYx4r4/IMG-1255.jpg)
Ron, just a quick hint based on what I ran into on my engine build, but I've not yet documented in my build thread. I think it's likely that the SAE standard nuts you should will interfere with the rocker post whenever you install it. I ended up making some brass washers 5/16" x .050" and some model scale nuts .219" across the flats by .140" in height. Those cleared fine when I tried them.
FYI.
MIke
You must have modified your Taig with a variable speed motor? Mine never went that slow.Hi Kim. Yes, after about a year of running the Taig on an old 1/4 horse AC motor, I upgraded to a Sherline DC motor and controller. A very easy conversion that was well worth the small effort. Infinitely variable speeds are nice, but the real benefit is being able to get to a much lower minimum rpm.
Are you going to try and match a similar paint job on the rest ?I might do that, just on the outside surfaces of the frames. Unless I get lazy and don't. I often have ideas about painting the engines that I don't carry out because I don't like painting much!
I'm not sure that I would like to be known as the chap that spread the use of Danish profanity to the English speaking WorldNo, I can see that. But on the other hand, you did say that Danish teenagers mostly curse in English these days. So in a way it could be said that you are preserving Danish history, just as we do with some of our engines. ;)
No, I can see that. But on the other hand, you did say that Danish teenagers mostly curse in English these days. So in a way it could be said that you are preserving Danish history, just as we do with some of our engines. ;)
Will it be a box with the electrics hidden below ?No, just a solid base, in keeping with my usual KISS approach. The points and condenser are mounted on the engine, but I see no reason for the coil and battery to be attached.
It would fit under the rear hood of a VW quite nicelyGreat idea, Joe!
What's next??Good question. At this point I haven't decided, but I have three leading candidates.
Thanks Kim!QuoteIt would fit under the rear hood of a VW quite nicelyGreat idea, Joe!
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8NXz8GJ/IMG-1673.jpg)
You don't often see a vacuum advance distributor on a built VW engine.That's a Pertronix electronic ignition distributor that includes both vacuum and centrifugal advance (and an adjustable rev limiter). That's the only concession to modern electronics I allowed on the car. Yours looks really nice, bet you miss it!
Thanks Dave. That's one great looking fan! :ThumbsUp: