Help! > Machines, Tools and Fixtures

Table lathe and drill/mill

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Jasonb:
I must have got lucky with my three, maybe midweek specials :LittleDevil:

But as I said all capable of making models with no real issues, 59 and counting

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzm1mS9LyjyIjTMgRVJXfOuN7fG9ydS4f&si=hS6gJ1eg3S3B8NWN

All  the milling done on SIEG machines, with the majority on the Manual X3. Lathe is similar to the optimum/hare & Forbes imported machines being out of the Weiss factory.

PaulR:

--- Quote from: Robert Hornby on July 30, 2025, 11:56:30 pm --- I would still like to have a small bench lathe and drill/mill and have been looking online at the SEIG products and asking if any member has experience of this brand. I would also welcome any suggestions. I propose to set up a bench in the garage so space will be at a premium.

--- End quote ---

I bought a small Seig lathe (SC2) in December. I had an issue with the electronics within a month or so (faulty pot) but that was quickly resolved by the UK supplier (Arc Eurotrade) who I found really helpful and efficient. I've made half a dozen small models so far this year using just this lathe and a wonky pillar drill. It fits nicely in my garage corner workshop as per the photo (as you see it has to share space with timber and tile storage!) I don't really have space for a milling machine so I might buy a vertical slide in the near future. I also have a 'dirty' bench to the right with grinder, bench vice, files and materials store. I don't have a window so have to rely on fluorescent and LED lighting which I find a bit depressing... when weather allows I leave the side door open to let in natural light, air and wasps  :Lol:

I've found the lathe to be pleasant to use and accurate enough for my needs. I never take cuts above 10 thou, mostly around 5 thou so I can't say how good or otherwise it would be if you wanted to take heavier roughing cuts. Drilling up to 10mm with the supplied chuck is fine. I removed the annoying perspec cover but left the arm which stays in the down position enabling the circuit. I made a perspex cover to fit to the front of the saddle to protect the ways. I think I should probably bolt it down to the work surface but I've been waiting to make sure it's in the right place before I take that step.

Biggest downside until you get used to it is changing chucks as the gap to fit the nuts is impossibly small for adult fingers! I loctided studs into my two chucks and made a little tool like an Allen key with an extremely short end (basically a rod with a little bend at the end) which, with practice, allows me to offer the nuts up to the studs and start them with the end of a finger quite quickly. I also made a crude sloping board with a lip at the front to protect the ways when changing chucks and ensure that the nuts roll to the front of the machine when undone but don't end up on the floor!

The red paint on the cover is chipping slightly and the various stickers look like they were applied by a "blind man on a galloping 'oss" as we say in this part of the world. I don't know how to use the leadscrew so I can't comment on that. I recently nipped up the gibs on the slides as there was a tiny amount of play developing. I found the supplied dead centre would sometimes stick in the tailstock tube but that was easily fixed by screwing a short stub into the end of the taper. Some of the supplied accessories were a bit roughly finished but were easily made more finger friendly. I daresay these generic parts are made in various places with varying levels of care, the same as many of the other tools we buy.

The brushless motor with variable speed control is a godsend compared to the mini lathe I owned about 20 years ago and the tedious belt changing when I owned a small Myford.

Many will disparage lathes that are made in the far east but I needed something compact and affordable with metric scales (which I find easier to work with). I could have taken a chance on an old secondhand lathe but would have to put up with the inconvenience of manual speed control, probably imperial dials, a larger footprint and the possibility that I'd buy a pig in a poke as I don't have the experience to spot faults and signs of wear that aren't obvious.

After 7 months of ownership, overall I'm very happy with the machine; it does what I need, fits in the space available and is well backed-up by the supplier. Hope that helps!

paul gough:
After a prompt, I thought I should make the context of my comments more precise. Australia effectively has only Seig and Optimum machines readily available from importers. There are European table top machines but the prices are very high and limited accessories. I wanted accuracy out of the box, so to speak, and also access to certain accessories that were in proportion to the equipment, ie specifically designed for use with that equipment. So purchased Sherline machines and accessories direct from US thus had to pay the price, more or less double the US pricing, ie worthless A$, courier & GST.
I mostly use brass with a little bronze & mild steel. Regarding current set up in garage, My machines are on a table 2 metres long and my “fitting/assembly” table is the same. All could be accommodated in a shorter space if I had to. I find the more ancient one becomes the smaller the project the better, easier to handle with the caveat that you have set up excellent lighting and got a couple of magnifiers and I would suggest good quality Optivisors from US and a pair of Eschenbach clip on magnifiers for spectacles. Light and sight being of paramount importance for those wanting to continue with table top machining and fitting into advanced age. Regards, Paul Gough.

Sanjay F:
I had both a Sieg lathe and mill and was very happy with both - as Jo mentioned there are some bits which are not so good and if you look there are many improvements which can be made. I kind of regret getting rid of the lathe after I did all the improvements but needed the space

Here's a good Youtube video showing what can be done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVkWQLbPo60

PaulR:
One thing I forgot to mention on the SC2 lathe: the speed pot is very near the chuck so it's easy to inadvertently brush it with your arm. After doing this twice (fortunately with no harm done to me or anything else) I had to get into the routine of using the kill switch whenever I am messing around in that area. That's one of the disadvantages/dangers of removing the perspex shield. Here you can see what I mean as well as the small gap between spindle and headstock and the wrinkly labels along with my wooden nut catcher, perspex protector and nut jiggler!

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