With the crankshaft support firmly attached to the base and cylinder I drilled and faced it using my milling machine with a risky set up and taking care to put very little pressure on the job. I found Neats Foot Oil was an effective cutting lubricant for these aluminium castings. This set up should also ensure the crankshaft and displacer yoke would be at right angles to the cylinder.

IMG_5613 by Andy, on Flickr

 IMG_5616 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5621 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5625 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5625 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5639 by Andy, on Flickr

Next was the displacer yoke casting which I think is the most delicate in the kit. Drilling the 1/8" diameter hole for the pivot was easy enough but I found drilling the 8BA tapping size holes in line through the ends of the flimsy wishbone like casting was tense.
After setting up the casting to ensure all the holes would be parallel I used a long series drill and improvised. The pictures say it all.

 IMG_5643 by Andy, on Flickr

 IMG_5648 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5650 by Andy, on Flickr


IMG_5652 by Andy, on Flickr

Also had to mill away a fair amount of the side of the crankshaft support bracket to take account of the thickness of the crank and centre line of the cylinder.

IMG_5660 by Andy, on Flickr

IMG_5661 by Andy, on Flickr

At that stage my confidence was increasing.

Andy

Very interesting project - did you do it all or 'just part of the Team who did it' .... 

I hadn't a clue that Puch made anything with more that two wheels  .... Live and Learn 

Great to see you back here 

Per

Runs superbly and I like the matching burner too 

Per   

Great to see  parts in motion. You could change the caption on the video to claim the model is turning the lathe!

I had the idea of ​​using the lathe and a belt to make the motor a little more mobile. It worked well too. Is that enough?

Michael

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okaq9UB964o" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okaq9UB964o</a>