Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Your Own Design / Re: Halfa, a DOHC inline Twin
« Last post by Admiral_dk on Today at 10:04:25 AM »
Nice Idle sound - it should be easier to solve the last bits or it might just improve with running time  :cartwheel:

Another one to be happy with Ron  :cheers:

Per
2
Your Own Design / Re: 1/4 scale Porsche 917 180 degree V12 Build
« Last post by Admiral_dk on Today at 09:58:08 AM »
Man - that is a hard program .... you certainly earned som R&R - so enjoy  :cheers:

Per
3
From Plans / Re: 30ft 1890's navy steam launch 1/6th scale
« Last post by Admiral_dk on Today at 09:53:49 AM »
Time for a little celebration for the milestone you have reached with the build  :cartwheel:
You and Slim should give each other a pat on the back and enjoy the wonderful Hull  :Love:

Per         :cheers:
4
Thanks to all for the comments and helpful ideas.  The castings are the ones for the Stuart Major beam engine, and as per most copies of historic engines they exhibit the most awkward combination of fiddly re-entrant shapes and not very precisely cast moulded decorative features, so are always going to be a bit of a pest to get into to flatten down.  I think Jason is right , that persisting with W + D paper in some form does usefully attend to the slight high spots; and it is at least simple to do , if long-winded.
 I painted the Quorn grinder during the winter, which posed snags of getting some heat into the paint drying , now the summer weather is here, nice, but a bit too warm in the afternoon to keep the brushed paint flowing for brushing out time...! Dave
5
Your Own Design / Re: Halfa, a DOHC inline Twin
« Last post by Charles Lamont on Today at 09:04:22 AM »
Sounds very promising
6
Specific Engine Help / Re: T-Cut or not T-Cut? ( that is the question...)
« Last post by A7er on Today at 08:45:39 AM »
It might help with the sanding or polishing if you had a small electric sander. That was my line of thinking when I converted an Oral-B pulsar electric toothbrush to do the job. When I say converted, what I mean is that I hot glued a lolly stick to the back of the toothbrush, no need to cut the bristles off. They may even be useful in polishing the awkward spots. I have used it a lot when sanding my PLA and resin 3D prints, and also sanding the filler to smooth the surface. Various grades of sandpaper can be stuck to the lolly stick with double sided tape.

Safety notice. Do NOT use this on your teeth.
7
Your Own Design / Re: Longboy's "THREE BELOW" Model Engine!
« Last post by Longboy on Today at 07:55:03 AM »
The 20T MXL cam drive sprocket inboard on the flywheel end of crankshaft. Its belt has to rise and head 90 deg. out to the camshaft.



A dual idler bracket gets this done. A couple of half in. dia. brass pulleys on eigth in. rods provide a topside ride over of the belt.



Some Delrin buttons cover the end of the pins in an interference fit.....



.....and on their threaded sides, a couple of acorns to be added for the finish. The bracket bolts to the end of the crank base plate near flush with the bearing carrier plate.



With the 4x4 angle installed to the lower end, a notch out cut in for the belt exit. The proper belt length will be measured when cam install mounting is determined.   :ThumbsUp:

8
Have you considered very fine abrasive scuff pads? They leave a very pleasing satin matte finish & are very conformable to curved surfaces so it looks even. The finishing folks use this to take the gloss off for inter-coats without removing much of any material, or in cases like yours where they want a uniform satin finish to what was more gloss which otherwise usually requires a flattening agent or specifically formulated clear top coat. I use these pads all the time on aluminum parts for example.

https://www.woodessence.com/Abrasives/Scuff-Pads-Sponges

9
Specific Engine Help / Re: T-Cut or not T-Cut? ( that is the question...)
« Last post by Jo on Today at 07:08:34 AM »
  the awkward scraps of W + D paper, a bit difficult to get into corners...

Try sticking those on some wooden coffee stirrers to make them easier to use  :)

I have a rubbing compound in the workshop which is more of a paste than a liquid polish which could be used on a papered stick.

Jo
10
Specific Engine Help / Re: T-Cut or not T-Cut? ( that is the question...)
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 06:55:35 AM »
I think the biggest problem with anything on a cloth is it will tend to follow the imperfections where even soggy wet and dry will ride over the high spots and take them off but not sag down into the low spots.

Usual quality car bodywork practice even after spraying is to flat sand to remove all imperfections and then switch to compounds and mops to bring the shine back up which is really making finer and finer scratches to remove those from the sanding an initial compounds
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal