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From Kits/Castings / Re: 1895 Otto Vertical Gas Engine
« Last post by Dave Otto on February 20, 2024, 11:38:50 PM »
That's an interesting data point Graham, but I guess I still wonder at what time did Deutz switch from slide valve flame ignition to hot tube and or electric.

Your Own Design / Re: Building a twin cylinder inline i.c. engine
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on February 20, 2024, 11:34:36 PM »
I've just had one of those days where I worked all day and have very little to show for it. I had to make a fixture to align the exhaust flanges with the exhaust pipes  for silver soldering.  It was one of those fixtures that has to be destroyed to get the parts free from it after soldering. The fixture worked perfectly, but I'm not happy with the quality of the silver soldering job. This is not one of those jobs where you can fake it with J.B. Weld, because it gets too hot while the engine is running. Tomorrow I will try and get more silver soldering done on the parts where they were held by the fixture that positioned them but wouldn't allow me to solder everywhere I needed to.---I hope that makes some kind of sense. Generally speaking, this is where the second silver soldering melts the first silver soldering and everything falls apart.

Your Own Design / Re: 1/5th Scale Denny Improved Ericcson
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 20, 2024, 10:55:33 PM »
I like the fire opening door; I wondered if the Stuart Boilers ever came hinged rather than cast?
From Kits/Castings / Re: 1895 Otto Vertical Gas Engine
« Last post by pirmin on February 20, 2024, 10:46:58 PM »
from what i have seen and read so far, it seems that the Deutz Inverted variants ( B,D, D2 ,D3, and so on) are first of all very rare engines, even more rare to find one in complete original condition with the original Ignition system fitted. a lot of the engines where adapted when more "modern" ignition systems came up, so to me it often also unclear in what year and what type they changed from slide valve flame induction to Hot tube. also, there are very little Informations or original Documents available from this engines, but i am also sure Wayne g. could be a good starting point for further questions

A Note about a Hottube ; i spoke to the Danish Mystery man some while ago, and his recommandation was also to use stainless steel ( the highest grade ) and start with a relative long tube at least about
35 mm, adjust the flame along the tube, to find the best ignition timing.
The tube total 30mm long inside dia is 2,5 mm and outside dia is 4,6 mm.
For more easy Heating of the tube,the tube is 22 mm from the end machined down to 3,6 mm. at a length of 8 mm.
Your Own Design / Re: 1/5th Scale Denny Improved Ericcson
« Last post by wagnmkr on February 20, 2024, 10:37:43 PM »
I used to enjoy the Pick N Mix at Wooley's in York on every visit there. We always had a bag of the stuff with us.
From Plans / Re: Another MEM Corliss - Jason's build
« Last post by redhouseluv on February 20, 2024, 10:36:42 PM »
I just discovered why there's a gouge on the edge of this flywheel - the hole for the grub screw must've been tapped too near to vertical. Difficult to get a screwdriver/Allen key in and out without scrapping against the edge.

I found chopping off some of the shorter end of an Allen key worked!

Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Prowler901 on February 20, 2024, 10:27:57 PM »
That's a great looking bell, Kim!  Also, always heard them called clappers.

Crueby, I've always loved that routine!  :D

Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by crueby on February 20, 2024, 10:14:48 PM »
I've always heard them called clappers too, maybe its a translation thing.
Reminds me of this old routine from the Johnny Carson show many (too many) years ago!
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Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Kim on February 20, 2024, 10:02:09 PM »
Chapter 29.7 – Tongue, Cap Nut and Lever

The next part is the bell tongue, according to Kozo.  I would have called it a clapper, and probably still will.  Cause that’s how I’ve known that part all my life.  It’s the gizmo that flops around inside the bell and bangs on the side to make noise.  Regardless of what you call it, that’s what I made today.

The clapper was made from some 3/16” brass rod.  I cut part of it down to 1/8” and left the ball part at 3/16” diameter, then parted it off.

I then took it over to the lathe and holding the short 3/16” portion in square collet block, I flattened off  1/8” of the top end of the clapper taking 1/32” off each side.

Then drilled a small #55 hole in the flat.

Now, back over to the lathe.  Reversing the part with the 1/8” rod held in a collet, I rounded off the 3/16” portion to be the business end of the clapper.

The piece that will hold the clapper in the bell was made from 1/8” brass rod. I turned it down and cut 3-48 threads in the end.

Then parted it off to length.

I repeated the same process of flattening the end and drilling a hole in this part in the mill.  Then, using some 0.040” brass wire, I made a single link to hold the clapper to the holder gizmo.

This was then threaded into the top of the bell from the inside, like so:

And that makes our bell, complete with clapper!  And it works no less!  ^-^

Sounds just like Tinkerbell  :Lol:
From Plans / Re: 30ft 1890's navy steam launch 1/6th scale
« Last post by cnr6400 on February 20, 2024, 09:10:35 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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