Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: fumopuc on October 16, 2021, 09:46:27 AM
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Hi Everybody,
during the past summer time I have done the design work for this model engine.
By the Doug Kelley design, published in the "Home Shop Machinist" in 2016, I have made a CAD model in Fusion360 with all the, for me necessary, modification to make it suitable for metric bolts, shafts and some other here easier to purchase stuff, as piston rings.
At my favorite Greek supplier for Italian Caber rings I have found some 23 mm piston rings very close to the original design, 0,9"= 22,86 mm.
The gear design was a bit adapted to suit metric gears of the shelf, available in Germany.
In Luxembourg I have found the below shown fly wheel castings.
These castings do have enough material at the center to use "Sit Lock" (http://www.sit-antriebstechnik.ch/de/304/SIT-LOCK®.htm) clutches as at picture #4, a product of Switzerland.
To get an idea about the over all dimensions and the set up at a machine, I have printed the cylinder as a sample in 3D.
Also a metric design for a gear water pump was made, basic was a design made by Art Burns in the MEB magazine some year ago.
Here an animated design video of the very beginning of these project.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/iNgNdQSvIMU[/youtube1]
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Watching along!!! Love old Iron!
Dave
:popcorn:
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Hi Achim,
Looks like another great project to follow along with.
Dave
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Cool! I remember seeing that one in HSM. This should be fun! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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This is going to be good!! :popcorn: :wine1: :popcorn: .......
BC1
Jim
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Plenty there to give that new spindle a work out ;)
Those Flying wheels from RC Machine look quite good value for money
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Achim,
I'm looking forward to your Titan build.
The Sit-Lock hubs look interesting. Which size or item number did you select for your Titan?
Regards,
Chuck
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Hi Chuck,
it is site-lock 3 series , part number cal3 10x16
http://www.sit-antriebstechnik.ch/download_temp/SIT-LOCK%20Gesamt-E%20.pdf (http://www.sit-antriebstechnik.ch/download_temp/SIT-LOCK%20Gesamt-E%20.pdf)
Page 112 and 113 of this catalog, pdf page 8 and 9.
PS: The direct link to the pdf seems to be not working
Try this
http://www.sit-antriebstechnik.ch/de/304/SIT-LOCK®.htm
At the end of this page is the internal link to the English catalog.
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Hi everybody, thanks for popping in.
The fly wheel casting, d=154 mm, are not so expensive EUR 29,00 each and they are partly machined already as shown in the picture above.
I have made a CAD model of the casting and a virtual machining to fit the site-lock 3 self clamping set.
A CAD model is available at their site for download.
To hide this modern technology, was done by some simple pulleys which will be bolted together with the screws of the site-lock clamping set.
One flywheel will get a pulley inboard for the water pump also.
Last two pictures my design of the already mentioned gear water pump with metric gears, very close to Art Burns design.
He has used an O-Ring for shaft sealing, I will try it with a small rotary shaft seal as shown in the picture above with the purchased parts.
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Achim,
Thank you for the Sit-Lock size information. I found their online catalog.
Chuck
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Some other things, done here in last summer evenings.
Similar as the original drawings in the HSM magazine, I have made the CAD models some times started with raw part.
I.e., the crankcase.
As shown in the first picture, here are the parts with some overstock still and bolted together already.
Than I have loaded the raw part assembly into a new file at Fusion and made the final machining there only, second picture.
Similar for the cylinder block.
The CAD model of the liner with some overstock at specific surfaces.
Than the first set up for hard soldering.
Followed by the fixture to do it.
Picture 5 shows the CAD model how it should look like for the soft soldering of the plate with overstock.
And last the cylinder CAD model with final, machining.
All these CAD models are separate available, specially to get the bridge to the CAM for all these first parts in not final conditions.
If have tried to work her virtual very close to the order of the part making.
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After getting the crankcase done with all the manufacturing relevant models, the crankshaft and gear train was next for me to attack.
Crankshaft and bearings does match with metric 10 mm drill rod now.
The gear train does contain the metric modul 0,7 brass gears from Mädler now.
A slight modification of the gears bracket for the idler position was necessary.
Crank shaft and cam shaft position is still untouched.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/yhev9iJWsT8[/youtube1]
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Hi everybody, some more virtual build preparation.
The brass miter gears are with modul 0,5, a metric gear set from Mädler too.
I have been not happy with the thickness of the flange, so my idea was to increase it by a sleeve, which will be added by some Loctite 648.
As shown in the second picture, enough material for a M1,6 grub screw now and no collision in the CAD so far.
The governor and its bracket does suit to metric drill rod now and all the story around the tappets, tappet brackets too.
I could not resist playing around a bit again with the Fusion 360 contact sets with lobes and tappets, but it does slow down the motion at the animation dramatically.
As seen in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDkMBQAbC1Y
After this demonstration it will be switched off in the CAD model again.
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: When can we expect the metal version :stir: :)
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: When can we expect the metal version :stir: :)
Hi Roger, first to finish the BME and hopefully in spring time I can start to make some chips here.
A bit is already done, I have just tried to make a small electric generator for this engine.
A Chinese 12V e-motor, slightly modified and hidden in an own designed new housing.
I will show the result soon.
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Hi everybody, there in early summer time was plenty of time in long evenings to do some more design work here.
Pistons and con rods had to be slightly modified to suit better to metric drill rod as gudgeon pins.
The CAD model in motion with the new parts, as mentioned earlier, the tappet and cam movement is switch off again, it will use to much graphic performance here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sF7YZjGxx4A
The last picture was part of an old IHC parts catalog.
I have had the luck to find a PDF copy of this in Canada for very low money.
It seems that this picture was the basic for Doug and Jeff for their models also.
My focus here will be the cooling tower first to get an better idea about the over all dimension of the base necessary plate.
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Hi everybody, I am here very far behind the actual build status of this project. I will try to catch up step by step.
Some remaining information concerning the CAD model and general layout first.
The cylinder heads and the vale train is available now.
Sorry for the irritation with valve springs at the picture below, this was for a general check only, I don´t want to model the spring compressed by myself, this is a CAD model from the supplier. And sorry for the not final drilled ports trough the valve cages in the CAD model also, this is the very final job and I have not bring it into the CAD model so far.
The next CAD pictures are showing the engine with its man components nearly complete.
Including the first draft of an exhaust system.
Also the first idea for the cooling tower is getting shape.
Now I am able to get an overall idea about the base plate and the "how it all may be will fit together".
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One of the last missing main components is the intake system.
To get a proper basic for a CAD model, a carb was necessary.
I have seen in some YT videos that the 3 mm carb from AP Engines seems to be the favorite.
First I made a dummy CAD model of this carb with focus to the outer shape only.
For all my other engines so far, a 1:10 RC air filter was also part of that intake system.
Good that it possible to play around with it virtually, because in my eyes it does not look very nice.
First idea to modify the internals, so it will appear with less height now.
Looking better, but suddenly I have remembered the catalog picture.
Visible there a kind of intake air pre heater. Surely not necessary for this model engine, but may be an eye catcher.
Geoff (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,10311.msg234999.html#msg234999)has shown it at his engine at an earlier posting also.
Below a virtual assembly at the engine with this system.
It is a fake, there should be no surge connection to the exhaust heat exchange.
Plan is to isolate the pipes against each other, that as less as possible heat transfer is possible.
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Hi everybody, nearly finished with the virtual layout of my build.
A tailpipe for the exhaust, to avoid that the engine will give itself an oil spray shower later.
The final virtual plumbing of the water circle could be done also now.
The cooling tower has got a slightly modification at its bottom plate.
Now it should be easier to get all coolant out if necessary.
The rack has been increased and the rack for a fuel cell was added too.
Last question to answer, how to get the coolant in.
A slot in the top plate and a little movable cover should be the solution here.
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Nice CAD Work and it give you a chance to 'play arround with the parts'.
So I think that it won't be long before you commit to metal :)
Per
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Thanks Per, I do like this virtual planing very much.
I.e. the idea that this engine should drive anything.
It should be a small generator, similar to the layout of Jeff, as he did it with his IHC Titan.
I have never build a generator before so there was a clean floor to start.
Similar like the offers of PM, we have some suppliers here in Europe which do offer casting kits or partly machined build kits.
After studying all these different offers, the conclusion was to make something by my self.
It should be the very easy solution, an available e-motor, hidden in an old shape generator housing.
But the wish was also, that the collector and the brushes should be visible.
A small Chinese 12 Volt e-motor was ordered first.
The pictures in the suppliers offer has given me the idea, that it may be possible to open the motor very easily and to use the back plate in a modified shape for my build.
The pictures below hopefully will explain my way to go.
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Hi everybody and now swarf again.
A nice job for the CNC mill, the generator base first.
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The generator looks good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: You may also be able to use it as a starter motor :)
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Hi Roger, thanks.
Hopefully the compression of the Titan will win the battle against this tiny e-motor.
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Hi everybody, next part to make the housing for the e-motor.
The front cover is a fake. The M 1,6 bolts doesn`t fix anything.
The housing is a kind of cup to push the e-motor inside.
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Good Morning everybody.
And now the for me most important part, the rear cover with the free view art the carbon brushes.
It is still running as e-motor, if there is 12 Volt connected to the pins.
If it will generate enough power to lighten some LEDs later, driven as a generator, no idea so far, we will see it much, much later, perhaps.
Over all, in my eyes, a small fun project.
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Very nice reult Achim :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks, Per.
Some parts for the base are prepared.
Mostly fixed at the mill with my vacuum table (https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,10639.msg244829.html#msg244829). A very nice toy.
There is a nice tool in Fusion 360 CAM to organize all parts in a specific way at a plate very easily.
This will be done at the CAM part only, not with the model at the design part.
The design model will kept untouched.
It has helped me here to find out which kind/size of brass plate has to be purchased.
All plates are silver brazed together.
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There was a small accident.
The heat of 2 camping stoves was a bit to much for the 3 mm brass plate.
During the brazing activities it has been so soft that the gravity could bent it.
Not a real problem, some smooth heat and the vice have solved the problem easily.
Next job to silver braze the top and bottom rails.
Now we do have a real stiff base.
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Hi everybody, next step was the machining of the base to get flat surfaces at top and bottom.
The overall distortion here was much less than expected.
The whole thing has a bit a shape of a parallelogram, so I have tried to find the best suitable position of the hole pattern for cylinder and crankcase.
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Seht gut aus Achim - looks great Achim :ThumbsUp:
I guess that the top and the M3 screws will be milled too :thinking:
I simply couldn't remember you making the cylinders .... and them I looked again and can see that they are 3D printed ;D
Per
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This engine reminds me of the ‘90 Hp three ball Kline’ up at the Rough and Tumble Engineers Assoc. in Kinzers Pa. Lots of similarities. This looks like a great project, I was thinking of building the Klein at one time myself, might just get back to it with this encouragement.
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This engine reminds me of the ‘90 Hp three ball Kline’ up at the Rough and Tumble Engineers Assoc. in Kinzers Pa. Lots of similarities. This looks like a great project, I was thinking of building the Klein at one time myself, might just get back to it with this encouragement.
Hi Craig, is it this engine you are taking about ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpmU9rW-FD0
Very impressive this very slow movement of all these levers,
It reminds of some Corliss engines.
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Yes Achim, I didn’t realize there was a video of it running. Lots of interesting motion to model. Thanks for looking it up and showing.
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Seht gut aus Achim - looks great Achim :ThumbsUp:
I guess that the top and the M3 screws will be milled too :thinking:
I simply couldn't remember you making the cylinders .... and them I looked again and can see that they are 3D printed ;D
Per
Per thanks.
The cylinder unit was my very first sample part, 3D printed end of spring time last year.
Reason was to get a better idea about the different possibilities for set up at the machines.
I.E. at the lathe, mostly done for a member of our German forum here, who was worried it could not fit to his lathe if he will ever start a build by his own.
For me it is a good sample now for any kind of sample assembly.
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Drilling and thread milling the next operations at the base.
I do like these tiny thread milling cutter a lot now.
But still I can´t watch the tool diving into the hole first time.
My health condition there is close to a heart attack still every time I do use it.
I press the start button to run the CNC program after the tool change to the thread cutter but looking out of the window than.
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But still I can´t watch the tool diving into the hole first time.
My health condition there is close to a heart attack still every time I do use it.
I press the start button to run the CNC program after the tool change to the thread cutter but looking out of the window than.
I’m laughing and commiserating with you at the same time. I think we’ve all been there.
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I wonder if it would be possible to make a working (maybe for a short time ::) ) IC engine with 3D printing :thinking:
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I wonder if it would be possible to make a working (maybe for a short time ::) ) IC engine with 3D printing :thinking:
Hi Roger, there are some videos at YT.
One engine is made by LEGO. (https://youtu.be/1IK7uYbU-Lw)
This guy was close with his 3D printed (https://youtu.be/DG7g2ocVhNI) engine.
He is using a 3D printed cylinder head at a lawn mover. (https://youtu.be/HNRO48PlbHg)
I am sure there will be more all over the world.
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Next action with the base build.
As mentioned earlier it is bit banana like shape.
But nothing what not can been hidden easily.
First I have marked the position of the holes best guess by visual judgment.
For general orientation it was checked against a print.
There is a a dent in one side wall still.
But I will leave it as it is. That will the special note of this build.
In Fusion CAM the little plates for increasing the holes are prepared.
They will all machined in one set up.
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You're making some great progress on your engine, Achim!
And those videos you posted are pretty interesting. I wondered how the Lego engine would do and it was just about what I thought - they all melted - But it was an interesting experiment! The printed engine was interesting as was the lawnmower head experiments. Thanks for sharing them!
Kim
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Hi Kim, thanks. This printed engine could be a real fun project.
Next to do, milling of the little straps.
To get them fixed with soft soldering and to get rid of the temporary bolting.
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Last part of making the base.
Finishing only.
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Hi everybody, next to do, the parts for the silver brazed crank case.
Also here I have tried to do it with my newly self made vacuum table, but with medium success only.
I would say that I have hit the limit of surface which could be kept down with my table configuration.
The flat surface and outer shape no problem.
I lost one drill bit, due to not giving any coolant fluid.
The first cut out no problem.
But for the second cut out there was a hidden failure in the PVC sheet.
I have made two holes at the wrong place, see marked in picture 07.
So when the cutter passes this place I have lost the vacuum and the part came loose.
Next idea, a new attempt and to use the help of an additional clamp.
But it failed again. There are to much shear forces, the one and only clamp could not resist.
The very last picture does show the main problem.
Left hand side, marked in blue, are 3 holes in the PVC sheet to transfer the force to the work piece.
Right hand side, red marked, I can not make the same holes, due to the grid of the table. It does not match.
So here is a clear limit for using this clamping technologies with this application.
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A Plan B was necessary to salvage the part.
I have put it into the vice and did a new set up by finding the center of the other big hole.
But unfortunately the result was not as expected.
The new made hole was not round and seems to be out of center.
First I have been complete at a loss. But the inspection of the mill has shown the reason for this mess.
This little cut out piece of brass, pic 14, from an earlier operation has fallen behind the table into the slot between table and column of the CNC mill.
Covered in that red silicon sheet, which is for swarf protection there.
The table had to go very close to column during the CNC milling operation and very close to the end of the necessary movement for that hole to machine, it was blocked by this little piece of brass.
I do not have a closed loop system at my CNC mill, so some steps has been lost and the controller did not know that.
The result, two parts for the the bin, no salvage.
Additional the cutter has hit one of the parallels.
VHM cutters do not like the high speed contact with steel.
See picture below.
A new one to compare how it should look like.
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What have you done to make your shop elves mad? :(
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What have you done to make your shop elves mad? :(
Easy, Bavarian Beer.
Special offer, could not be sold at the "Oktober Fest" last fall.
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I've only been to Germany once. The company I retired from has a facility in Putzbrunn, near Munich. Unfortunately it was not Oktober Fest time, but I did enjoy the local Dunkel Weisse very much. :cheers:
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Yes Ron, the Bavarian art of brewing is something very special.
After some mishaps but a good learning curve with vacuum part holding I have decided to make the part with two set ups now again.
The first set up with the vacuum table, cutting out, small holes and one big hole.
It was supported a bit by the protection sheet, the brass suppliers has used to cover one side of the plate.
The second set up in the vice for the second big hole only.
At the end after several attempts with this clamping technology, I do have a good part now.
For the fabricated cylinder assy a similar part will be necessary, but with less small holes in it.
This was very helpful for the vacuum table part holding.
Exactly were the grid of the table is, we do have enough surface there for another clamping attempt.
So I could make this part in one go.
At the very end of the cutting process, the spindle motor was shut of already and on its way into the home position, I could here suddenly a sizzling noise.
The vacuum escaped just at the right moment, so this part was made by luck only in this way and I got the confirmation, that here will be worked at the limit of the vacuum clamping technological with my equipment.
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Ready now to attack the crank case.
A fabricated solution again.
Some brass bar stock was prepared.
Also an end plate was necessary.
All bolted together as a sample first time.
All of these brass bars needs some machining to get its final shape.
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I've only been to Germany once. The company I retired from has a facility in Putzbrunn, near Munich. Unfortunately it was not Oktober Fest time, but I did enjoy the local Dunkel Weisse very much. :cheers:
I was in Germany several years ago. I made it my mission to try to find a bad German beer. :DrinkPint: I Was unsuccessful. :cheers:
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I've only been to Germany once. The company I retired from has a facility in Putzbrunn, near Munich. Unfortunately it was not Oktober Fest time, but I did enjoy the local Dunkel Weisse very much. :cheers:
I was in Germany several years ago. I made it my mission to try to find a bad German beer. :DrinkPint: I Was unsuccessful. :cheers:
Craig, good to hear that you failed.
Some finishing and silver brazing was not a hard job.
Followed by the first set up for machining and surfacing.
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Next steps of the crank case surfacing.
And the finishing of the part.
At the end we are ready to machine the crank shaft bearing places now.
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That's coming together very nicely indeed, Achim! :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Ron.
Machining the crank shaft bearing cut out.
A very long cutter was necessary, what means some chatter will occur.
Important is the bottom surface only.
Front and rear a small gap could be an advantage for later alignment of the bearing blocks.
The hole pattern was marked first by an NC spot drill bit.
There is everything from M1,6, M2 and M2.5 needed.[size=78%] [/size]
Most of the threading could be made by CNC, except the thread cutting for the bearing block fixation.
The CNC thread cutter would cause a collision with the crank case.
So is was done the conventional way manually.
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Excellent fabrication as ever :praise2: :wine1:
What is the operation in Picture 34, thread milling?
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Excellent fabrication as ever :praise2: :wine1:
What is the operation in Picture 34, thread milling?
Hi Roger thanks.
Yes, most of my M1,6, M2, M2,5, M3, M3,5 and M4 threads can be made by thread milling at the CNC mill now.
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To give the engine a home feeling already, I made the pedestal next.
A 12 mm aluminium plate which should host the engine and the water pump.
The dimension for the a wooden base plate are defined in the meantime also.
Now I do have a good idea about the overall dimensions from this build.
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Hi everybody, next part to be made, the crankshaft bearing blocks.
First a special CAD set up was made to prepare a common CNC machining.
Now I could start from a piece of 7075 round bar stock.
After the first operation with 3D adaptive cleaning, the general shape is visible already.
Than the complete hole pattern for fixation and lubrication was made.
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You are really making fast progres now Achim - have you borrowed some Elves from Chris :thinking:
Per
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You are really making fast progres now Achim - have you borrowed some Elves from Chris :thinking:
Per
Hi Per, not really.
It seems to be more the advantage of retirement and the cold weather.
Next job was to split my so far machined aluminium block in half by a circular saw blade with the mill.
The over stock was calculated for this.
Each half than surfaced to final dimension by a facing head.
Bolted together it is coming close to the final shape already.
Than it was time to split into the final bearing blocks, also by the usage of the circular saw blade with the mill, followed by cleaning these surfaces also.
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Hi everybody,
I have been a bit distracted by several things.
But now back to the bearing blocks again.
The unit has been split by a circular saw, followed by a surfacing operation.
The holes in the lower part has been drilled an got a temporary thread for the further machining process.
Now it was time to split it again and we do have three bearing blocks for the crank shaft now.
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Hi Achim, even in retirement, life gets in the way for all of us, but then that is life.
A beautiful job of those bearings. It’s excellent progress.
MJM460
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Hi Achim, even in retirement, life gets in the way for all of us, but then that is life.
A beautiful job of those bearings. It’s excellent progress.
MJM460
Hi MJM460, thanks for poping in and the friendly words.
Retirement does allow me to use the available time in a complete new and very different but interesting way, my main experience.
Its allows me now to live in a multiple project landscape.
It is a risk, sure, because easily you can get lost or overloaded.
It seems I am overloaded already, because I mixed something up yesterday with the restart of my build report.
I have restarted with the wrong picture folder and did not even recognizance it until yesterday evening.
May be also something that belongs to the experience "getting older".
Sorry about that.
But never the less, real progress at this project is much more ahead as my report here and I will try to catch up again.
The crank shaft bearings at the conventional mill for boring and reaming the holes.
The both outside bearings are increased by a bronze bush, the one in the middle is without and for the axial bearing forces responsible also.
Lubrication will be done by some brass cups.
Some fine tuning was necessary to get it running freely.
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Retirement IS a lot of fun, isn't it! You can get behind in more projects all at once now that you're retired! :Lol:
Very nice looking bearings, Achim. One question - the 'ears' on the bearing blocks sit above the level of the base (see picture below, circled in red). Does something else go in there? Or will the blocks be brought down to match pretty soon? Or is it just the way it is? Just curious.
Kim
PS Oops... forgot to add the attachment! It's there now :)
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Hi Kim,
it seems to be similar to be the real one.
The reference surface is done at the bottom of the bearing block to the crank case.
There can be only one reference surface for all 3 bearing blocks, otherwise it will be to difficult to make it.
Below a picture of the real one.
Also attached a picture of the 1918 spare parts catalog.
It does show a sketch of the part.
This round shape seems to be more a cosmetic issue.
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Interesting! Thanks for the additional pics of the prototype, Achim.
Kim
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Hi Kim, I could Imagine that the real one has used the space under the ears for some shims.
Never seen a real Titan so far.
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Hi everybody,
the dummy shaft with two bearings was running nice and freely, with three bearings there was a bit of friction.
After some playing around with it, I have got the feeling that the middle bearing block was a very small bit to low.
So a shim was designed and the plotter has made it by different types of paper.
After some trials I have found the right thickness there and now it is turning nice and smooth in all three bearings.
Unfortunately it is a dummy shaft and not the still to make crank shaft.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDqfhI9ogCE
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Hi everybody,
next job, the flywheels.
The castings has been cheap and as always, "you will get what you paid for".
There seems to be a failure during the sand core making already.
The upper and lower part of the model does not match concentric before the sand comes into the core box or the get pushed out of center then.
Both castings do have the same effect.
One half of the spokes are running nearly true, the other side does have a kind of wobble.
They came partly machined, so it is like it is.
The drawing does show what to do, to get them as near as possible to the Titan design.
The Sit Lock clamping element does fit nicely.
So one side machining done, the other side still to.
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The fine RC Machines 'flying wheel' ::)
They are not bad for the price and you seem to have got that one sorted out nicely :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Hi Roger,
I assume the whole engine will try to "fly" a bit.
These crank shaft concept is not the best idea for a calm running engine.
If you see the all the videos of the still running 2 cylinder Titan tractors, than it is clearly visible that they can be used as a shaker for what ever also.
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Here my set up for the other side machining of the flywheels.
I have used a short piece of drill rod in the chuck, the flywheel fixed by the Side Lock clamping element and the other side guided by the tail stock.
After this a bigger cleaning of the lathe was necessary.
I do hate these cast iron dust and the smell also.
As a stationary engine it seems useful to me to have pulleys on both sides.
In my case, these pulleys also should cover the Sit Lock elements.
Additionally a small belt pulley will be needed to drive the water pump.
To keep the width small, it is fixed to the fly wheel and not to the crank shaft.
The flywheels are nearly finished now, except the magnet for ignition timing.
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Hi Achim.
I don't remember if I mentioned this re IHC decals:https://www.bossenimp.com/decals/scale/decal-1-16-ih-titan-w-ihc-logo-red.html
I purchased two sets and plan to put one on the fuel tank and the other on the water tank. Even though the scale is not ideally correct they look fine in practice.
Geoff
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Hi Geoff,
good idea.
I should have a look, if I will find a nice template anywhere in the net.
Than my plotter will cut it at any size.
After a look into the CAD model I have fond a nice hidden, but suitable place for the Hall sensor.
Now the exact position for the sensor was defined and the fly wheel got a hole there for the magnet sitting in a brass bush.
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Achim
Yes, dealing with a mis aligned casting (mis-align of the cope and drag) is difficult. It’s a choice of compromises, selecting the lesser of all the evils.
I like working cast iron, if it weren’t for all the iron dust that coats everything and requires a thorough cleaning of the tools when done, it might be my favorite material to work.
I’ve been getting my flywheels from Martin Models of Oregon, USA. His has a great selection, quality is excellent, alignment is good, and he anneals everything to avoid hard spots. I don’t know if he ships internationally or not… but I’ll bet he does.
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Hi Craig,
thanks for popping in.
Doug has made a recommendation about a Martin Model 6" fly wheel casting in his BOM also, with part number.
But to be honest, is very expensive to buy the stuff here from Germany.
The price for the casting itself is a one-third more than my casting, considered for the two castings something to be compensated by the better quality.
But the freight cost and customs fees then could be more as the amount for the goods on top again.
So my decision was then not to do the oversea purchase.
Disadvantage, I have to live with the wobble.
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However when the engine is finished you will probably be the only person to notice the wobble :) ::) :wine1: Everyone else will be enjoying all the other fine details.
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However when the engine is finished you will probably be the only person to notice the wobble :) ::) :wine1: Everyone else will be enjoying all the other fine details.
Roger, I am afraid you are 100% right.
With the magnet in the fly wheel and the sensor in position it should be the right moment to check the functionality now.
For that the CDI system should get its new home first.
It will be fitted to the aluminium base plate of the engine.
Unfortunately there is the temporary wooden base currently.
I have made the final lay out of the CDI system with a new printed battery box.
Then a whole was cut into the wooden plate and with the help of some strips, we have got the necessary clearance height again.
The little tester connected and we could start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_PrCLB2aTY
So far everything seems to be fine.
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Flywheels done, ignition seems to be fine, time to replace the shaft, 10 mm drill rod between the flywheels, against the real crankshaft.
The webs are drilled together in one set up, so I tried to archived the most accuracy with the center hole distance in all parts.
To keep them in position during the silver brazing process a fixture was made.
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Hi everybody, next job the crankshaft brazing.
The set up and some white out.
The brazing God was not with me that specific day.
The solder did nor want to flow as usual.
So in my panic I have given more and more heat, which ends in totally burned flux all over.
The silver solder was sticking mostly in big blobs at the part.
Something was totally wrong here and I had to find out.
First idea was, that maybe the flux was not good anymore, but I have learned quickly that the age of 5 to 10 years should be no real problem there.
Than I remembered that the gap maybe was a bit to small. The solder manufacturer does recommend 0,05 to 0,1 mm.
In this case I have been sure it was less. I have made it with the intention to get a very precise cam shaft.
Now I do have a very precise piece of scrape.
Also my usual procedure with some punch marks in gap was not used here.
So back to the roots was the decision and a brazing experiment was scheduled first, before I will start to make new parts for the crank shaft.
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That’s bad luck Achim, but your back to basics approach will recover the situation. I assume the white out is being used as a brazing mask? I did not know that trick, but now you show it it reminds me of using boron nitride paint inside vacuum chambers as a similar kind of mask. Makes me wonder what is in white out.
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Oh man - I do understand your fustrations with that result :cussing:
Besides flux, I can only think of two possible reasons - space for the solder as you mention and clean- / dirty- ness of the surfaces ....
Best wishes for a satisfactory solution
Per
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Which flux are you using? Some burn off faster than others, being used up before the part gets up to temperature. I've used both the Tenacity 5 and Harris Black fluxes with great results. Some other fluxes have a much shorter life at temperature, and require a quicker heating with a larger torch. I've had the same flux for years, never had it go bad. Also, which grade of silver solder? The 'hard' grades require higher temperature and longer heating. If the torch tip used is too small it wont heat the metal quickly enough. Lots of variables. When you applied the White Out, any chance that it wicked into the joints? If so, that would be a problem, since you want the solder in there. From the looks of the parts, I'd guess either the flux burned off before the part got to temperature, or the solder used wanted a higher heat than the flux could last for. A good long soak in the pickle solution should get the parts clean again before another attempt, and your plan to do a test part first is a good one. I like to use the wire type solder, and lay it in the flux on the joint seam (diluting the flux applied to the joint ahead of the heating so some of the flux gets carried into the joint).
Chris
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Hi Achim. I wonder if you might be trying to do too many of the joints at one heating? In my experience that leads to a poor result, as moving the central area of the flame from one zone to another even briefly seems to introduce contaminants from the "fringes" or outer areas of the flame.
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Bummer! I hate it when that happens :( And I've certainly had it happen to me!
You should definitely clean up the parts and try again before you remake the whole crankshaft. It's certainly worth a try. I've had that work successfully for me many times. The only times I've had to start over is when I got so heavy-handed with the heat that I melted my part (yes, that has happened :embarrassed:)
Kim
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You should definitely clean up the parts and try again before you remake the whole crankshaft.
I was about to add a similar comment, but Kim beat me to it!
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As the metal heats up you will see the flux first bubble as the water boils off, then go hard, then melt and turn clear, shortly after that the solder should melt and flow. If it starts browning again, the flux is spent, and you may need a torch with more power. Key is to heat both pieces evenly, from the back so the flame doesn't directly melt the solder but the metal does. If one part is thicker or larger, you need to put more heat there early so both parts get hot together.
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Gentleman thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.
It is very much appreciated.
As already mentioned, time for an experiment.
A dummy web and a dummy shaft was prepared.
Both the same material as used for the crankshaft.
Same flux as used before, but a bigger gap and the masking with the same white out as used for the crankshaft so far.
As in picture 23 hopefully visible, some punch marks in the hole to keep the shaft hopefully centered.
I used my discounter USB microscope for the following pictures.
First the side without the masking and than the side with the masking.
All details are in the way as it should be.
The solder has entered the gap complete until the other side, where it get blocked by the white out.
To be continued.
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To be sure, the piece was cut to see the internal situation better.
The right side seems to be a bit less filled with solder, but the more detailed view does show some solder in the very small gap also.
For me the confirmation now, material, flux, solder and white out does do it with each other, if its proper matched.
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A very scientific methode and fine result that clears some of the variables from the equation :ThumbsUp:
Per
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Excellent experiment (and practice helps too). One thing I (finally) learned was to use enough solder, a lot of my early attempts I was starving the joint, tricky to figure out how much to use without leaving a big fillet of it on the outside.
:ThumbsUp:
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Per, Chris thanks for popping in again.
With the result of my experiment in mind, I have been more confident again, that I will be able to get this crankshaft braze job done.
The decision was to keep this first attempt of the crankshaft, looking like the last forgotten sausage from a barbecue, as an sample for how things sometime can go wrong.
To make 4 new webs was not a big issue and to cut 2 new pieces from the drill rod bar an easy job also.
Here are the pictures for the new brazing set up.
As I have done in past very often also, the solder formed like an arc and is clamped to the relevant shaft under the flux.
The gap is around 0,05 to 0,1 mm and the shafts do have all around the punch marks at the contact surfaces to the webs.
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And the pictures after the brazing operation now.
What was different to the first attempt:
Bigger gap.
I have not used the outdoor cooker for general heating up.
A piece of solder clamped to the relevant shaft.
Indirectly heat only was used at the relevant web.
In January I have bought a new torch. It is an Sievert MetalJet 2155.
I seems that I do still underestimate the brilliant power and heat of this torch.
It was now problem to heat up web by web, always from the opposite side and to get the solder flow into the gap.
It seem to me, that at my first attempt also cleanness could have been maybe an issue also.
So the final conclusion, staying to all the brazing rules will give a proper result again.
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Excellent experiment (and practice helps too). One thing I (finally) learned was to use enough solder, a lot of my early attempts I was starving the joint, tricky to figure out how much to use without leaving a big fillet of it on the outside.
:ThumbsUp:
Chris, 100% agreed here.
Mostly it is still to much.
I am surprised again and again, that a very small quantity of solder is to much still.
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Great to see that you solved this to your own satisfaction :ThumbsUp:
Per
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:ThumbsUp: I also keep a pointed rod handy, sometimes if the solder wants to flow onto on piece but not the other, you can use the point to drag the liquid solder across or down the length of the joint, helping it to wick in. Lots of practice helps, so you just need to keep building mire models! :Lol:
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Looks like an excellent result this time. :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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Nice work Achim - the brazing went very well this time, looks super.
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Beautiful work, Achim!
So the final conclusion, staying to all the brazing rules will give a proper result again.
I agree, following all the rules does give you the proper result! Still, some days, the brazing gods just don't smile you're way. But you certainly got this one licked!
Kim
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Gentlemen, thank you very much.
I have been very happy too, that the brazing God was with me again.
Now is was time to start the machining.
The first drawing below does show as it should be after the brazing.
Next picture does show how it should be after machining.
The first cut out was made with the band saw to start the machining of the inner webs and the middle main bearing.
This one should take care about the axial guidance also.
The soldering here, after machining locks still good too.
To be continued...
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...The width was made in accordance to the already existing bearing cap.
Next, step by step the remaining shafts has been cleaned and polished.
After that the band saw again.
I have been so nervous and nosy that I went straight to the engine and did a assembly of the partly machined crankshaft first now.
And the big positive surprise, the crankshaft was running true.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpfbSo-F90A
To be continued...
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...For me it was a great success to get it at this stage as it is now.
Next the outer webs has be cleaned and very carefully final machined.
I took some pieces of soft aluminium sheet for the clamping in the vice.
All in the hope, that I can avoid any bad clamping force, which could bent the true running crankshaft here.
Finally the crankshaft complete finished and polished.
Next to do, the counterweights.
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Excellent outcome, Achim! It must be very satisfying to see all that hard work spinning so free and true. :cheers:
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No surprise that the crank is running true. You put a lot of thought and care into making that part - a very excellent outcome.
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Amazing work, Achim! Well done on the crankshaft. You put a ton of effort into this part, so as Stuart said, it's no wonder it runs so true! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Great results, always a great feeling when it runs true.
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Chris, Kim, Stuart, Ron thank you very much for all your friendly comments.
Seen the crankshaft spinning free and true first time was a great relief.
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Excellent result :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: As always careful experimenting pays off :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I guess you let the crankshaft assembly cool slowly to avoid hardening the drill rod otherwise it would be difficult to cut out the pieces between the webs.
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Thanks Roger.
This not slowly cooling down after brazing was done one time with a longer part.
I have been in hurry and drooped it into cold water.
Now its part of the examples for "not to do it this way", category banana shape.
Counterweights the next challenge.
First picture does show it, how it should look like if finished successfully.
Next picture, my way to do it with the CNC mill.
A pair of these weights opposite in a piece of round free cutting steel.
The diameter is already machined at the lathe in accordance to the radius of the web.
The 5 mm VHM cutter is going through it like in butter.
Also here low Ae with 0,5mm and Ap= 2 mm, 2D Adaptive Cleaning only no overstock.
Next step, a flip over set up.
To be continued...
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... two sets nearly ready for the next machining set up.
And an additional operation at the conventional mill.
To be continued...
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.. now it looks better, attached to the crankshaft web.
Each counterweight will get three holes.
One is very long/deep so I swapped from a drill bit to a cutter fur better accuracy over length.
The right bolts are missing, but ordered already.
Some enchant also, because the whole crankshaft should be black at the end.
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Looks like you ended up with a very fine parallel Twin Crankshaft Achim :ThumbsUp:
Per
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Hi Per, yes it seems to be fine now.
Very often during this build I was thinking about these crankshaft concept.
What the hell has been in the heads of the engineers at that time ?
I am sure, if I have spend the hole day sitting or standing on one of these tractors, I will not be able anymore to hold the eating iron calm in my hands for dinner.
And more dramatic, half of the beer will pass my mouth and leak along my neck outside.
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That's a great-looking crankshaft, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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What the hell has been in the heads of the engineers at that time ?
I am sure, if I have spend the hole day sitting or standing on one of these tractors, I will not be able anymore to hold the eating iron calm in my hands for dinner.
And more dramatic, half of the beer will pass my mouth and leak along my neck outside.
That was a good laugh to go with my morning coffee! :lolb: A beauty of a crankshaft, Achim. :cheers:
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What the hell has been in the heads of the engineers at that time ?
I believe that it is the same reason why most Twin Cylinder British Motorcycles where Parallel Twins - you get an even Power Delivery, with 360 degrees between every Power Pulse.
But they where also known to always be missing most of the Bolts and Nuts (no not the Owner :LittleDevil: ).
And more dramatic, half of the beer will pass my mouth and leak along my neck outside.
Ahh - I feel your Pain - what a Tragedy - Real Substance (Alcohol) Abuse :LittleDevil:
Let me see, if I still can heist the Glass, to salute you :cheers:
Per
ps that is the reason why the Japanese made 180 degree firing order Twins and added a Counter rotating Balance-Shaft - so they got rid of most of the problem.
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Hi Per, skal.
Waiting for the delivery of the fresh steel etchant gives me the opportunity to start the con rods already.
They are made of two components, the bronze bearing block and the brazed construction for the rod with the small eye.
Starting with bronze bearing blocks.
My way to make it was similar to the crankshaft bearing blocks.
The two sets are hidden in a small piece of round bronze bar.
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That's a great-looking crankshaft, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
Thanks Kim.
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What the hell has been in the heads of the engineers at that time ?
I am sure, if I have spend the hole day sitting or standing on one of these tractors, I will not be able anymore to hold the eating iron calm in my hands for dinner.
And more dramatic, half of the beer will pass my mouth and leak along my neck outside.
That was a good laugh to go with my morning coffee! :lolb: A beauty of a crankshaft, Achim. :cheers:
Hi Ron, thanks.
Good to know that I could make you laughing.
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Superb job on the crankshaft and counter weights Achim.
Following along. :popcorn:
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Hi Craig, thanks. Good to know you are following along.
Crankshaft seems to be nearly complete now.
The fresh etchant arrived, so it was time to try a beauty treatment.
It came out with a deep black surface.
And other spin with both flywheels, driven and accelerated by the cordless drill.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/eJ1n7A6HlkA[/youtube1]
The only thing missing here is the drive gear for the cam gear train, I will do it later when the camshaft bearing brackets are available.
A disassembly of the entire crankshaft will not be necessary there, only one flywheel and bearing block has to be removed for pushing the gear and a little spacer on the shaft.
Next to do, the con rods.
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Outstanding work on your engine!
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Stunning! Really excellent work.
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Achim, I love the color of your crankshaft! What etchant did you use for your 'beauty treatment' :)
And the crankshaft must be straight - it spins QUITE well! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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Splendid :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
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George, Stuart, Kim and Roger thanks for visiting and the friendly words.
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Achim, I love the color of your crankshaft! What etchant did you use for your 'beauty treatment' :)
And the crankshaft must be straight - it spins QUITE well! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
Hi Kim, I do use a product from Saemann Ätztechnik (https://www.saemann-aetztechnik.de), it is a small German company, no web shop.
So for your side of the pond maybe not the ideal supplier.
Their main business is to make very small parts.
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Hi everybody, I will try again to catch up this thread.
The con rod bearings I have made earlier are a little nightmare.
I haven done a failure by the converting into metric dimensions and second there was a mistake made at the set up and flip over at the mill too.
So the design and CAM had to be reworked and a new set was made.
Now it looks and fits much smarter.
Next part to do, the small eye for the con rod.
tbc......
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... all jobs done by the CNC mill.
I have made one more, so maybe I can make a sample part from all scrap so far.
An old available jig could be modified easily for the soldering job.
One rod at the lathe.
And all together at the fixture, ready to heat it.
Brazing job was fine, without any issues.
tbc.....
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... one angle of the rod to the plate is not as it should be, 90°, but I have to live with it now.
Some blackening and it does fit nicely into the overall picture now.
My two cents.
Next to attack, the cam drive.
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Never funny to discover that you have made a blunder in conversion or other kind of adjustments :killcomputer: The new parts look fine, but the proof as you know - comes when you have the pistons installed and it all goes round without any bindings - I really hope this will be the case :ThumbsUp:
Per
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- comes when you have the pistons installed and it all goes round without any bindings - I really hope this will be the case :ThumbsUp:
Per
Hi Per, I do hope this too, but I am confident now.
Some times in CAD it looks like "a big gap", or still "very much material available".
What will be nearly never a problem if it is scaled by 50 at the screen. :LittleDevil:
The original design of Doug Kelley was tight there already or better described with on the edge, my first one was simply over the limit.
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Great looking con rods, Achim! You're making good progress on this engine! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Hi Kim, thanks.
There is more progress already, but I am behindhand with the posting.
Next parts which had been made easily by the CNC mill, the camshaft brackets.
I am using metric Modul 0.7 gears for the gear train here, so a slight modification of the main bracket was necessary to compensate the changed position of the idler gear.
tbc...
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...the set up after flipping over.
Finding the center again and removing the rest material from the stock.
tbc...
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... and the remaining pictures of the bracket making.
Unfortunately the already existing hole did not match with my shaft.
So a new hub was necessary.
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Glad you sorted out the big ends :ThumbsUp: There's a lot of swarf in the little ends ::) Still enjoying :wine1:
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Nicely executed Achim, your parts look great!
Dave
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Nicely executed Achim, your parts look great!
Dave
Thanks Dave.
With the look of the gear I have been not so happy, so a pure optical modification was done before it gets the new hub.
And still to do, the hole and thread M2 to clamp the little shaft for the idler gear.
tbc....
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Still missing the drive gear for this gear train.
It has the get a much bigger hole to match with the crankshaft.
And some measurement to define the thickness of a spacer to glue it into the right position with Loctite too.
The gear lash was a bit tight, so I have increased the holes by 0,2 mm to get more room for a proper adjustment.
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Glad you sorted out the big ends :ThumbsUp: There's a lot of swarf in the little ends ::) Still enjoying :wine1:
Roger, thanks. Good to know you are still following along.
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Beautiful work on the Gears, Achim. I like the black/gold theme of this engine! :popcorn:
Kim
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Beautiful work on the Gears, Achim. I like the black/gold theme of this engine! :popcorn:
Kim
Hi Kim, Thanks.
Maybe at the end you will be disappointed.
The theme should be more black/red at the end.
Here a "nearly" draft in the CAD model.
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Beautiful work on the Gears, Achim. I like the black/gold theme of this engine! :popcorn:
Kim
Hi Kim, Thanks.
Maybe at the end you will be disappointed.
The theme should be more black/red at the end.
Here a "nearly" draft in the CAD model.
Disappointed? Hardly! I think the Red will add an excellent contrasting color to the Black/Gold that's there now. I'm all for it! :) :ThumbsUp:
Kim
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Hi everybody.Two of our members here, Jeff (Rustkoletor) and Geoff (GeoffK) have drawn my attention to the tappets.
The original design at the big engine is made with roller tappets, Doug has a simple design done with a flat surface only in his plans.
So I have accepted the challenge and change my design to roller tappets now.
The roller is a very small ball bearing.
The CAD picture does compare the two designs.
Also a slight design change to the lobes was made, now the set screws will not tough the tappet roller anymore.
This was seen at Jeffs and Geoffs design also.
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Hi everybody.
After being clear on the tappet design now, I felt fine to go ahead with the governor.
It should look like shown at the CAD picture.
The purchased bevel gear has had a bore of 3 mm.
The camshaft is 4 mm, so a rework was necessary.
To have enough material for the thread of the set screw, a sleeve was made and fitted with Loctite.
Now it seems to be more reliable.
Yes, you are right, there is a broken drill bit sticking into the governor shaft.
A good reason to make a new shaft.
The spots for the set screws of the cam gear and the bevel gear could be defined now proper also.
A suitable set collar was made with its set screw spot at the camshaft.
tbc...
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Than the governor itself.
A "free hand" turning operation and here the set up at the mill for drilling the small holes.
The soft soldering of the small pins into the body followed by powder coating.
The weights are fixed by Epoxy glue.
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Your efford paid off - the Govenor looks very good (as do the rest of the Engine) :cheers:
Per
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Per, thanks.
Next job, the cam lobes, a CNC job again, for me the easiest way to get it.
Material is ETG 100, similar to StressProof 1144, no further treatment scheduled so far.
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You are making great progress, Achim. It's all looking really good! :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Ron.
Tappet brackets, the next challenge.
Doug Kelley has a drawn and recommended a fabricated part from 4 single components, soft soldered and finally machined.
At the end a fixture had to be made too.
My idea was to make it with my CNC mill from a solid block of brass.
It was clear, that a kind of flipping over was necessary to get it complete machined.
The first attempt to get the split line at the lower end of the part failed, because of the cutting length of my 5 mm VHM cutter.
At the end a split line is visible now, but with some additional polishing I hope to get ride of the optical marks.
tbc...
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... more brass swarf.
After flipping over an additional 0,1 mm in Z could have avoided the massive burr.
I will try to make it with the next mirrored part that way.
tbc...
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... and additional necessary machining is a 1 mm slot for the guidance of the tappet.
Also made by a CAM program.
I have had a lot of sweat at my hands and forehead when I have press the start button first time.
It was my one and only 1 mm cutter at this point.
But the very conservative chosen cutting parameters seems to be the reason for a successfully machining of all 4 slots by not loosing the one and only cutter.
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Some excellent carving :praise2: :praise2: and a lot of swarf ::) How much did the original block of brass weigh?
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Nicely done!
Dave
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Excellent, as usual! :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Hi Roger, thanks.
148 Gramm was the weight of the stock part, as shown in in the CAD picture.
So a bit less than 10 % survived.
If you compare the whole fabrication work with a fixture to my milling out of the stock, I do not know who will win.
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Dave, Chris thanks for watching.
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They looks really good Achim - I'm guessing that you need to make one more of those :ThumbsUp:
Per
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Hi Per, thanks.
Why do you think another one is necessary ?
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Hi everybody, next to do the newly designed roller tappets.
A set up at several machines was done for each operation of one tappet in line.
Starting at the lathe from bar stock.
A gauge was made to check the slip fit at each part before the next machining step was started.
Than the part with the stock and the collet moved to the conventional mill into the square collet block.
The slot for the roller was machined here.
Next, the collet block with the part moved to the CNC mill.
The bearing pin hole was drilled in this set up.
The collet block has been flipped over by 90° to be ready to get the 1 mm hole, for the guidance pin of the tappet.
The CNC mill was manually and very carefully operated by the hand wheel for the drilling of these holes.
tbc...
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...Also manually the reaming of the bearing pin hole to final dimension, all jobs so far still fixed in collet block.
Back to the lathe and a parting-off.
The push rod hole was made next.
The little belt grinder has been very useful for the final shape.
These tappets are not really big.
First set in situ.
tbc..
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... some more pictures and finally some movement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41UEWpkMfBI
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Very nice work, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Those are VERY tiny parts!
Kim
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Great result Achim :cheers:
Why do you think another one is necessary ?
Oh man - now I'm also blind and can't see that you have already made (and mounted) them both :facepalm2:
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Achim - I hope nothing serious is keeping you away from here and that you are doing well ...!
Per
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Achim - I hope nothing serious is keeping you away from here and that you are doing well ...!
Per
Hi Per, thanks for asking.
No, nothing really serious is the reason.
Only the stress of a retiered person
The shop, some intensive sailing during summer time at the local lake and a in February started consalting self employment does eat the time.
Impossible to understand how I have found the time to go to work in the past.
The progress at the engine is still ongoing, but I have to catch up again, with the build report.
Never the less, that is where we are today.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/EPrUoUV3QYY[/youtube1]
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Oh yes - I can see that you have been busy with the build too - Looks really good :praise2:
Apparently it happens to ALL of us (with few Elves exceptions) that we slow down and have Absolytely No Clue how we found time earlier in Life ::) :old: :noidea:
Oh well, have :DrinkPint: and Enjoy ....
Per
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Thanks Per.
May be a good opportunity to go ahead with the build report.
What happens so far ?
The cam shaft is finished with all details for later adjustment.
The cylinder unit is done, so the 3D printed dummy is in the bin now.
The cylinder heads are half way through.
Pistons are done and the piston rings got something about 4,5 hours of slow driven movement at the "drag test bench" or better known as the lathe in this case.
A 3D printed drip pan was made.
And most of the parts so far, with the exception of the heads, has get the final surface, mostly powder coating.
During the reassembling near all temporary bolts, studs and nut has been replaced by the final "nice" type.
Let´s start with cam shaft and the tapper rod guide.
I think the pictures are self explaining.
The cam shaft has get some very small groove exactly at the circle where the set screws will clamp for timing adjustment.
So the burr of the set screw tip is not at the normal surface level of the shaft surface.
To be continued...
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.. any two more pictures of this chapter.
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Looking good :praise2: :wine1:
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Beautiful work, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Roger, Kim thanks for popping in.
Summer is gone here, it s foggy and most of the winter time garden preparation is done.
The progress of the build is still same as shown in the last video.
I start now with the build report up to that point.
The cylinder unit is a very special fabrication part.
The two cylinder will soldered together by a spacer between.
A fixture was recommended by Doug Kelley for this job and as later confirmed, very useful.
Some steel plates has to be prepared and at the end it look like shown in the pictures below.
For some general check, I have used my 3D printed dummy cylinder.
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Hi everybody.
And now the first cylinder itself, the usual process at the late with drilling, turning and honing operation.
This is not the liner, its the outer part of the water jacket.
Liners will done later.
The honing was done only to get familiar with the process again.
Something special, an O-ring grove at the lower end.
I have made a dummy liner for checking the bore over the entire length.
The size of the bore does have still a bit overstock, because a final machining of both bores will be done after the soldering.
The drawing does show the internal and external necessary machining and the cylinder.
To keep everything in position during the soldering, some pins are located between the two cylinders and the spacer.
The plate/frame was done already in spring time, when I made other plates with my self made vacuum table at the CNC mill.
Also her are three pins located, with the only function to keep all in position during soldering.
The two cylinder and the spacer will be silver soldered in the fixture, the legs also.
The plate and the water outlet will be done by later soft soldering.
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Here are the pictures of making all the additional part for the unit, mostly made by CNC milling.
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Will you soft solder the additional parts in one operation? A nice piece of fabrication :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Finally the M1,6 thread has be made by the computer in the water outlet again.
Still today, I am not able to watch the tool, if it dives first time into the hole.
I press the start button at the CNC mill and are looking out of the window, waiting a cracking nose.
For the brazing I have started a new journey.
During my last purchase of silver solder at my preferred supplier, I have seen the offer of "brazing foil".
This foil is the same material as my usually used bar, but is available in stripes of 0,2 x 20 mm and I could by a length of 200 mm there.
Target was to use it for the spacer and the legs in this case.
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Will you soft solder the additional parts in one operation? A nice piece of fabrication :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
Hi Roger, good morning.
It was scheduled to do it step by step.
First the plate/frame and second the water outlet.
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Before I ruin all the nicely done parts, my idea was to do a test brazing.
I have had some spare stripes after all was prepared for the cylinder unit.
So a test soldering could be done as shown in the pictures below
No extra fixation, only laid flat at a heat resistant stone and heated up to nearly 700° C.
It is a lot of solder visible flowing around, so I should take this into account, if I do my real part.
Encouraged by this experiment, I have started the real job.
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As in real life, there is always any kind of surprise around the next corner.
During the heating of the hole unit in the fixture first time, suddenly there was a strange noise.
Just measured a temperature of nearly 550° to 600 °C.
A bit frighten, I have stopped the heating and inspected the parts visual immediately.
A gap could be seen at a place, where no gap should be.
I have been able to disassemble everything without any problem.
By luck, I did not reach the melting heat of the foil so far.
My conclusion was, I have to increase the amount of bolts in the fixture, keeping everything in position during applying the parts with heat.
The design with one bolt was to weak for the heat deformation.
Now we do have 3 bolts each side and the second attempt was successful.
As learned by my test soldering the waste solder does flow forced by the gravity under the unit.
There it will not disturb the needed clean surface for the water outlet.
I have been very happy with this success, in my option it was a very easy and smart solution.
The easiest silver brazing I have ever done.
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Encouraged by the result of the first operation with the solder foil, I have attacked the legs the same way.
By what I have learned before, the fixture was modified from one bolt per side, to two bolts per side, keeping the legs in position.
Also here I have been very, very happy with the result.
My conclusion, the usage of soldering foil in this specific application was a very go choice and I am sure, next time I will do it again.
Last picture does shown the final cleaning in citrus acid.
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Excellent result Achim, a satisfying milestone before the next steps.
MJM460
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Nice progress Achim.
Dave
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Beautiful fabrication, Achim! Lots of progress to catch us up on, I see :) :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Very interesting Fabrication :ThumbsUp:
Solder Foil - that is another new one to me :cheers:
Per
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Interesting! I've been using the fine wire version of the solder, had not seen the foil type. :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks everybody for watching and the friendly comments.
Here is a link to my German source of the foil.
https://www.sonderlote.de/epages/62173412.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62173412/Products/"A%20314%20F"/SubProducts/A314F022020
The manufacturer is FONTARGEN that belongs to VOISTALPINE and both are members of the BÖHLER WELDING group.
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Hi everybody, Good Morning.
Now the soft solder operations had to be prepared.
The plate/frame has the hole pattern already for 3 pins, which was transferred to the cylinder unit first.
And a flat surface, hopefully at the right angle was needed.
I have marked the cylinder unit contour at the plate and with a soft solder paste at first solder layer was given to the plate.
The final soldering was made by the paste also.
Some areas could be better, but a reheating has solved this issue.
After soldering the water outlet in is final position, also with the paste, is was time to open the bore into the water jacket of the cylinder unit.
All surfaces around had to be machined to its final dimensions, similar to final machine a casting. (What I have never done so far.)
Also the hole pattern to connect to the base and crank case.
As a very last, but most important operation, the main bores for the liners had to be made.
The set up is shown in the last picture.
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Doug Kelley has made and recommended the liner bore as a lathe operation.
I thought, this should be a perfect job for my small Wohlhaupter boring tool.
It worked well and now the real part does look very similar to the 3D printed dummy.
Still missing the hole pattern for the liners and cylinder heads.
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Final operation at the cylinder unit, the hole pattern for liners and cylinder heads.
6 threaded holes each cylinder and 2 holes for coolant passage.
It took all my courage to do it with the small M2 cutting tool with the CNC mill.
The small long shaft of this tool is 0,9 mm in diameter.
The first time I have used the process in steel.
Until today I have to look out of the window when pressing the start button at the CNC mill to do it.
But here also, surprise, no cracking noise appeared.
The only issue, my saved cutting parameters has been learned by machining aluminium or brass so fare.
Here, making the thread in steel, the little fragile shaft oft the tool seems to bounce at bit more.
I had to increase the feed at bit and also to repeat the last turning around two times, to get a fine usable M2 tread.
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The pictures of making the liners are hopefully self explaining.
It is a more times proven process.
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Finally the plotter has cut some paper seals.
The hole pattern in the liners was drilled by the Computer also and the conventional mill had supported the hole for the spark plug.
Now the most imported and in my eyes most difficult job will start, to the water jacket proper sealed.
During the adaption to metric sizes, the dimensions to Dougs original plans has slightly modified.
Due to this, the O-Ring cord size and length, used for the lower sealing has to find out now.
I have purchased some rings and different cord size to find out the best solution for my build.
The gap between, "no chance" to press it in and "leaking" is very small.
A fixture was made to simulate the outer diameter of the slot, machined inside the liner.
But it is a guess more or less, because I can not measure it in a proper way.
With some try and error, some rubber scrap and my shown test equipment, at the end I have found the right cord dimension in diameter and length.
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Some rapid progress :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
Internal O ring grooves are somewhat tricky ::)
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The sectional view shows the critical issue.
Last picture, the final test, no bubbles anymore and the basic to cut and glue some more rings of this specific size.
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Some rapid progress :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
Internal O ring grooves are somewhat tricky ::)
Roger, yes. That was nearly a complete day working on it.
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I had to increase the feed at bit and also to repeat the last turning around two times, to get a fine usable M2 tread.
Sorry, I mixed it up a bit with my current job.
The here described thread is M3 and the shaft diameter is 0,97 mm in this case.
For my feeling not a big different, also here close to a heart stop when diving into the hole first time.
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Wow! That's a lot of top-notch work, Achim! You've made a lot of progress on this engine and it's looking great! :popcorn:
Kim
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Great description - fine parts as a result :ThumbsUp: and I do understand the trepidation when using a Mill-Bit with such small dimentions ....
So now it's only the Heads that are missing or .... :noidea: :cheers:
Per
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Kim,Per thank you very much.
Happy that I have got the O-ring issue sorted, I thought a good time now to do the coating of the cylinder unit and the liners, followed by a hopefully final assembly.
And than full attack to the cylinder heads, as Per already mentioned.
The recommended design from Doug was do fabrication work here also, specially for the in and outlet flanges too.
It was clear that the water jacket needs a fabrication work, but in my eyes the flanges are a job for the CNC mill too.
So I made a strategy and created the CAM for it.
The attached pictures do hopefully explain a bit the route how to get there.
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A lot of swarf, but at the end we have got it, specially the outer shape.
In my first set up it was important for me to do the water jacket milling and hole pattern in one set up.
Unfortunately are there another two holes for the coolant passage, only half way through the head from the other side, the fire face.
So a simple fixture was made to get the heads in the right position for this drilling operation.
The hole drilling was a computer job again now, due to the relationship to center of the fixture, it was clear to him what do for each head.
Next challenge, the rest of the coolant passage, shown at the two CAD screenshots.
The CAD has given me the right angle to clamp the heads for this operation.
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Hello Achim,
I am sitting back quietly watching your progress and admiring your workmanship, it looks very good. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
The great thing about how we build our model engines is the wide verity of challenges we face and the need to find cleaver ways to create them. After weeks of fabricating cylinders and glueing O rings you now change to CNC machining the cylinder heads. Plenty of challenges, plenty of innovative solutions leading to the biggest prize: plenty of satisfaction.
Cheers :cheers:
Mike
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And with the help of an old fixture plate, two new holes at the right place and some pins, I have been ready to do this final coolant passage drilling.
Last picture doe show the Plugs already, which will silver brazed to close the water jacket.
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And here the heads in the actual conditions so far, with a slightly flat machining after brazing.
All this happened beginning of September already and by looking at the results in sunny weather I realized there are some things missing to do a final assembly.
Main point, I have some con rods but no piston.
So next to do, some pistons.
Target was to get 3 pieces.
All the necessary equipment on the bench and all available machines involved.
The lathe for turning operation.
The CNC mill for milling the con rod pocket.
The conventional mill for the piston pin bore.
The bar was clamped by a collet block after the lathe and than carried to the other machines for clamping in a defined position.
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Still happily, if quietly, following along with your progress, Achim. Lovely work! :cheers:
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As always I haven been curious how it looks like.
Next picture the prey, 3 usable pistons.
And the question, how to get them in easily.
Also here, as always I have made a tool for it.
The drill bit in first picture for a sample assembly, but not really useful for final a assembly.
So the piston pins had to be attacked next.
First piston and con rod at its new home and as always some trouble coming up.
Anywhere is the point, where a model builder has to recognize that mostly he himself is the reason for some trouble.
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Hello Achim,
I am sitting back quietly watching your progress and admiring your workmanship, it looks very good. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
The great thing about how we build our model engines is the wide verity of challenges we face and the need to find cleaver ways to create them. After weeks of fabricating cylinders and glueing O rings you now change to CNC machining the cylinder heads. Plenty of challenges, plenty of innovative solutions leading to the biggest prize: plenty of satisfaction.
Cheers :cheers:
Mike
Hi Mike, thank you very much for watching and the friendly comment.
To be honest, I do like these different challenges very much.
Hopefully tonight I will find the time to catch up with your build report.
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Still happily, if quietly, following along with your progress, Achim. Lovely work! :cheers:
Hi Ron, thank you very much. Good to know that you like it.
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I had to look back to the beginning to see how the valve guides/cages would be fitted into the head. A complicated fabrication ::)
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Hi Roger, thanks.
The design is very similar to the Bruce Macbeth Engine head design.
Main difference, the water jacket plug is here now not a the fire face side.
The valve cages, pressed in with Loctite, will be the same.
As another difference, Doug has used here bronze for the valve cages instead of steel at the BME.
I will do the same. The expansion coefficient may be does match better.
But, first there was another issue to clarify.
Turning the crank shaft first time with the conrods and pistons connected does create sometimes a little strange noise.
First I have been perplexed and could not imagine what the reason was.
After a more intensive examination, I have found a very little collision between my extended cam lobes and the conrods.
The lobes are not finally adjusted and the position, also axial, are currently more or less by random fitted.
So I had to have a look at the CAD first, because here the cam lobes are axial in its right optimal position to the center of the roller tappet.
And surprise, the CAD has known about it, but me not.
To solve the problem was not a big issue, but I had to disassemble it again.
The pictures below does show the slight modification at the conrods.
After a reassembly I have been ready for the drag test bench.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKwtrPsSKKU
The strange noise is created by the lead screw gear train of the lathe, not by the engine.
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Another fine bunch of parts :ThumbsUp:
Happy to see that it was a simple solution with the Interferance :cheers:
Per
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Hi Achim. I'm glad that the interference problem was relatively easy to rectify. I'm sure we've all had that experience- "I hear something strange, but where the ##$@# could it be coming from?".
Great to see everything working so well in the video. For me at least, that's always a very satisfying milestone to reach, and a nice interim reward for all the work up to that point. :cheers:
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Nice investigative work, glad it wasn't too hard of a fix.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Per, Ron and Chris thanks for watching.
Up to this point a drip pan, strongly recommended by Doug and also Rustkolector (Jeff) who has build this engine too, was missing.
And as Ron mentioned, I wanted to get the feeling, up to this special point it is done.
The only worst thing here, a complete disassemble is necessary.
There have been two options.
A fabricated pan made from a brass sheet or a job for the 3D printer.
So I have had a look to the CAD model first.
The out coming result, a simple two part design will combine my wishes and the way a 3D printer can make it easily.
I have had a new roll of PETG filament under the bench, purchased at a new supplier, so a good opportunity to test it and to find a good adjustment for it and my printer.
At test part was made first.
During the disassembling I have tries to get some records for the later reassembly.
I will fix the pan with 4 small M1,6 studs, glued into the pan and some nuts.
The pictures below does show a sample fixation with bolts sticking loose into it.
I had to order a threaded rod first to make these studs.
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Now it was time to think about a final assembly up to this point.
Still missing some coating /color.
For me a job that does need some time and patient.
Still a fan of powder coating, because it gives always this kind of irregular surface I do like very much, which remind me a bit as the surface of a casting.
I will show some, not further commented, pictures here of the way I have done it.
The masking is the most time consuming job here.
Some place has got some cold black burnish only.
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next lot of pictures
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and some more.
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For the final assembly I had to spend some many at my favorite model fastener supplier again.
Some very unusual long, black bolts has been found in China and could be easily modified into the required long studs.
My cutting equipment also shown below.
Today I have still no source for the very small model washers, so a black burnish has to be needed for each washer.
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Here some detail pictures of the fasteners at the engine.
I am very happy with it, how it does looks like now.
Again the link to the engine video how it looks like today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPrUoUV3QYY
It is the same video, which I have linked some weeks earlier, when I have started my catch up marathon of this build report.
Also missing here and next to show, the coolant gear pump.
It will follow soon.
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Very nice paint job, Achim! :popcorn:
I'm with you, I like the look of the powder coat. And I also enjoy the powder coating process MUCH more than standard paint. Somehow I find it more satisfying and less distressing. Yours came out beautifully!
Kim
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Beautiful work Achim!
All the new hardware also looks very nice!
Dave
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Kim, Dave thanks for stopping by and the friendly words.
After my shop summer break for nearly 2 month, I was looking first for the best way to get familiar with it gain.
Before I will continue with the cylinder heads, I thought the coolant pump may be a good subject to start with first.
At all the available videos of other IHC Titan 50 HP model engines, I have seen, that the builders have made a gear pump, instead of the well known centrifugal pump, also designed by Doug Kelley earlier.
I have build several of these centrifugal coolant pumps so far, there is also one finished in the box, but my intention was to try now a gear pump too.
Looking at the plans of Art Burns, published in MEB in 2007, I thought it will not be that rocket science.
I have found at company Mädler here in Germany some suitable Modul 0,7 gears with 12 teeth, which are similar in the other dimensions to what Art has used in his plan.
So I have copied the rest of his design around my gears.
Another modification, instead of the O ring shaft seal he used, I have found a suitable small lip seal.
Don´t be irritated, the section view below does show it as a dummy, because there was no CAD model available.
These part was a very good object to combine my sunny summer mind again with the CAM challenge.
I have found a lump of brass which could parted in two pieces, so I have on trial for each part of the pump housing.
Here I have started with the part which do house the gears.
There have been 6 different set ups necessary with my system to clamp it.
I have started by milling a flat surface and immediately with the pocket for the gears.
Than the bores for the gear shafts has been followed in the same set up with the holes for the housing connection also.
So all functional relevant machining was done in one set up only, my plan.
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The last two set ups for coolant in and out at the beginning of the pictures below.
My challenge here was to use a reamer with the CNC mill too, first time.
The recommended speed for my industrial 3 mm NC reamer tool is close to 2.000 u/min.
The lowest revs of my spindle in CNC use is 3.000 u/min.
So before I will scrap my pump housing and the one and only available 3 mm NC reamer, the decision was made to do a test.
Result in the pictures below, it worked without any issues, so I have felt confident to try in my pump housing the same way.
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Here the remaining pictures of the CNC machining so far.
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First part of the pump housing finished machined.
Now some tubes connected by soft soldering.
Now I am ready for the second part of the coolant pump housing.
It must be hidden in the brass block shown below.
Also different set ups necessary.
The M2 tread was a job fore my special CNC thread milling tool.
If you see it at the tool length measurement, may be you can understand, why I can´t still look at it, diving into the hole for machining.
But, if my heat is back in normal mode, I did a thread test and it is fine, as always.
Also here the 3 mm bore was finished by the 3 mm NC reamer.
Then other hole is for a 4 mm shaft.
The recommended speed for the 4 mm NC reamer is 1.400 u/min.
I have withdrawn the idea to ream it with the CNC mill here, it will be done later at the conventional mill.
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Now the outer side of this housing part.
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Only the outer shape is missing now.
But first the 4 mm reaming at the conventional mill.
Now the set up for final contour milling.
The very last picture does show the internals with a paper seal and the gears machined to the hopefully right width.
The assembly done, without the paper seal, it stucks, now turning possible.
Assembled with the seal, it can be moved easily.
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And finally the result of my gear pump experiment.
A quick test set up with coolant and the rechargeable drill to drive it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zo4pdiCrwds
Of course this type of pump, made by this dimensions, is not able to give the flow like the centrifugal pump, but it seem to be useful for this application here and it does mach in my eyes much better to the over all picture of the engine.
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Beautiful little pump, Achim!
Kim
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I do like the powder coating finish :praise2: The pump looks good :ThumbsUp: I have tended to use gear pumps as I think they work better at low speeds.
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I do like the powder coating finish :praise2: The pump looks good :ThumbsUp: I have tended to use gear pumps as I think they work better at low speeds.
Hi Roger, thanks.
I am sure the volume flow is much lower with this small gear pump, as with the so far used centrifugal pump.
I do know this type of gear pumps from the big engines, where there will used as pressure and scavenge pumps.
Also I do know about the there necessary very low tolerances for manufacturing.
Each very small gap does reduce the performance of it.
So for a long time, I haven been frightened of the machining process.
I didn´t trust myself, to get it proper done.
But now, with the CNC mill, I have been more encouraged to get it,
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Beautiful little pump, Achim!
Kim
Kim, thanks.
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Nearly 3 month ago that I have had the cylinder heads in my hand.
So time to go ahead there.
First the holes for the combined valve guides/seats has to be drilled.
Next the start of inlet and exhaust port with a kind of spot drill only.
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...
Than M1,6 threads, 10 pieces each cylinder.
A perfect job for the CNC mill.
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The valve seats/guides next to attack.
The arbor press and Loctite 603 has been used to assist.
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Beautiful pair of heads, Achim. Very nice work indeed. I always enjoy your updates. :cheers:
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Nice work on the heads, good to see progress!
Dave
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Ron, Dave thanks for watching and the friendly words.
To get a better feeling, I have made a vacuum test to see, if there is any leakage.
Now we do need some inlet and outlet ports.
One time I messed it up and the result was an unwanted passage into the bore for head fixation.
So a very thin sleeve from brass and some Loctite have been the secrete helper to fix it.
There is not much space for errors.
But at the end is was done without any further misshapes.
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....
Next to do, to get some coolant in and exhaust fumes out.
And another bummer.
I have chosen a very optimistic feed rate for the 5 mm drill bit in brass, no predrilling.
Of course I have used the deep drilling operation with pullback but sure there have been at some time more chips than space.
The chips have won the battle and the very thin brass tube has been burst.
So I have chosen some softer parameters in the CAM and at the end we have had 2 nice parts.
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That's some very delicate work there in a tight space! And great recovery from some setbacks. Always fun to watch you work, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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Some thing one only learns the hard way :hammerbash:
But I will say like Kim, that you saved those nicely :ThumbsUp:
Good looking parts too :cheers:
Per
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Ouch - Its sometimes tricky drilling deep holes in brass, I've had cases where one hole out of 4 will pack up like that even when using same feed/rotation speeds. First one goes fine, second one packs up, other two go fine, no pattern to it.
Watching along, great project!
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Hi everybody,
a short up date where we are today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5KTTsIa2YA
A more detailed report will follow soon.
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That's looking really good, Achim! Getting very close, now. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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They move beautifully, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Great to see an update.
Kim
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Thanks everybody for following along still and all the friendly comments.
I will try to catch up with the more detailed build report, starting what has happened since January.
Valves was the next needed for the head assembly.
I have made it by my proofed way so far.
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...
next load of valve pictures.
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... and some more.
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... and the final rest of the valve story.
More to come soon.
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Great update Achim :praise2:
I'm guessing that you only need a few more parts, before you can try for first Pop :cheers:
Per
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Excellent :praise2: Are you using a tool and cutter grinder to finish the valves to length?
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Great pictures of your work on the valves, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
So, in that last picture, what's the 'extra' valve off to the right? I see there are two in each head already...
Kim
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Great update Achim :praise2:
I'm guessing that you only need a few more parts, before you can try for first Pop :cheers:
Per
Per, thanks.
It is not so far anymore.
A decision, has to be made now about a possible short cut.
Trying to get it running first, without cooling or making the cooling tower an the final basement before the attempt for the first pops.
Will see.
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Excellent :praise2: Are you using a tool and cutter grinder to finish the valves to length?
Hi Roger.
The valve stem was cut of firt by the little Proxxon cut of saw.
Than my big tool and cutter grinder was used to get a nicer surface.
It so easy to adjust there some, i.e. 0,05 mm of length, to be taken away.
Also to get the final length of the small 1 mm pins is easy to adjust with this "big" machine.
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Great pictures of your work on the valves, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
So, in that last picture, what's the 'extra' valve off to the right? I see there are two in each head already...
Kim
Hi Kim.
Thanks for popping in.
Over all I have made 5 valves, one was my set up part.
Earlier I have made also 5 valve guides.
With the extra valve guide, also a set up part, I have checked and confirmed my process to fit in the heads by pressing and gluing it into piece of round bar stock.
These "dummy" valve guide was a good gauge for the stem making at the lathe.
Also for confirming all the following processes of the valve making.
All went well so far, so now I have a fine spare valve for the shelf.
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Hi everybody.
Now we need something to move the valves in the head.
So I have started with the rocker arm brackets.
Two pieces are needed, so I thought they could be both hidden in a round piece of AW 7075 bar stock.
Finally my assumption was right and the CNC mill has found both pieces in that piece of aluminium.
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... a second and third set was necessary to bring to an end at the CNC mill.
The M 1,6 was cut manually.
At one corner the is very little damage, I thing it caused by an incorrect adjustment of my CNC mill table guidance.
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... next step, to get them split from the bar stock.
This was done by the lathe.
The conventional mill than was responsible for a proper surface and the correct height over all.
Finally the brackets in situ, they are not really big.
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Next to do, some rocker arms.
Also, in my eyes, very tiny parts.
Having several ideas in mind and rejected again, the conclusion was to make it this way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Osz4Odw9slM
It took min 4 or 5 times longer to do the CAM than the final milling.
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The start was a proper prepared plate of AW 7075 aluminium.
And than some swarf over all.
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The G code has had something about 56.627 lines including some finishing operation.
But something was going wrong there during finishing the circles of the bosses around the shaft bearingss.
See the red marking.
During the milling operation I have noticed for a very short time a strange noise already.
It was a kind of growling.
I do know these noise, it does get created by the stepper motors if the are blocked.
I do have no closed loop at my CNC mill.
The visible failure in this case was, I have get at 4 rocker arms an offset in X and Y by nearly 0,5 mm.
My brain start to steam and I could not find any explanation for this issue.
A break for lunch time and cleared head after this given my the idea for the right way of analysis.
After a check of the entire CNC mill, if there was anything what could block the table in X and Y temporary, what in my eyes is nearly impossible, my attention was tracked into an other direction.
If there is nothing mechanical what does show two stepper motors a limit, than it must something different.
Some deeper diving into my CAM program does lead my to the feed rate of the final 0,1 mm finishing operation.
The crazy and optimistic guy at the computer has selected there 2.573 mm/min.
In theory, combined with the 24.000 rev of the spindle and the small 3 flute cutter, not so unrealistic, but over the limit of the performance of my stepper motors.
Conclusion, I have simply hit the limit of my CNC mill machine.
The very small circle and the very high feed rate did not match anymore in this case.
The stepper motors are at their limit, but get further pushed by the controller.
They show this by the growling noise, losing some steps in X and Y, and the result is visible at 4 rocker arm.
Why it was not at #5, no idea.
To confirm my failure analysis, the feed rate was reduced and the operation repeated with success.
If I will make new parts or I can life with these, will be a decision for later.
The tool was changed regularly now and the next operations making more swarf.
The very last picture is the end of roughing out and finishing of this set up here.
May be I can live with it, if there will follow no further accidents.
-
The last operation in this set up, some more or less precise holes, made by drilling and reaming.
Now a new set up and the end of this operation already.
-
I do understand the fustration - but I always find it gives me 'Peace of Mind' if I can identify the reason for the problem and a solution + it really lessens 'the Pain' if I didn't ruin any tools ....
So all in all - not bad + and the rest are good Parts Achim :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
Per
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Wow, Achim! A lot of really good CNC work. Nice walk-through of the brackets and rocker arms.
You did some great sleuthing work to figure out what was going wrong with the rocker arms too.
Very interesting to follow along on your journey! :popcorn:
Kim
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The crazy and optimistic guy at the computer has selected there 2.573 mm/min.
I read that line at least 5 times while thinking that seems very, very conservative. Then I remembered the comma vs. dot differences. :Jester:
Very nice work! :cartwheel:
Gene
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Hi everybody,
today I have lifted the dust cover over the TITAN build again and after some orientation also some progress was made.
Unfortunately and additionally the build report here, last edited here in March last year, is far behind the reality.
I will try again to catch up.
I have seen, that the rocker machining is still not finisher here so I will complete it first.
Alls machining from sides was done so far.
Next step to flip them around and to prepare the last last side machining, but first to find a reference point. I took the middle hole.
Than the material was removed to level of the part surface in a small slot, wide enough to have space for some bolts.
This dimension is the overall width of the rockers at their bearing.
The challenge now was, to fix the whole story in a way, that after/during the final machining the single rockers could not move anymore.
A plate as a fixture was prepared, also drilled by CNC, with 5 threaded holes and 5 holes for pins.
The width of the previous mentioned slot was calculated also in way, that the 5 mm mill could start immediately beside the heads of the bolts without a collision.
Now the swarf was getting more and more and the shape of the rockers also.
tbc
-
.. and next steps of the rocker machining.
tbc
-
... nearly finished.
Some minor scratches, for me and my mill impossible to avoid by the multi set up machining.
It can be polished.
First time in situ also.
Next step was a bore and a thread in each rocker.
Also made by the CNC mill.
Some bolts for adjustable valve clearance made also.
tbc
-
... 4 rockers for the TITAN cylinder heads.
tbc
-
The bearings of the rockers need some completion also.
Some very thin shims has been used as thrust washer.
The damage, due to the earlier shown little CNC crash is visible, but only for people who knows it.
Decision is done, the parts will stay like they are and no new batch necessary.
-
Hello Achim,
There is a great amount of work in those rocker arms. They look very good. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
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Great to see you back at the models again after the other adventures! Watching along here... :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Great to have you showing how you made those Rocker in a very detailed description Achim :ThumbsUp:
Per :cheers:
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Lovely rockers, Achim! Nicely done. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Glad to see you're getting some time back on your old projects! Though I'm sure you had a great time with your other little diversion! :Lol:
Kim
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Mike, Chris, Per, Kim thanks for watching.
In the last pictures, there was the intake manifold already.
To compare the CAD model against the real thing, I thought it would be nice to get the cylinder heads exactly into their final position.
For this the head gaskets would be helpful.
The intake manifold should be a fabricated part, soft soldered together.
The last picture here doers show the final CAD model.
The main parts was CNC job again.
tbc
-
... and the further steps of the intake manifold.
The last picture does show the internal flow.
I know. not the best for an high performance engine, but that is not the target here.
tbc
-
Exhaust manifold with the fake intake preheating, the next challenge.
The manufacturing process in Theorie first.
Again the jobs mixed by CNC and konventionell machining.
The whole thing finally made as a fabricated part.
tbc
-
... this exhaust manifold is a bit more tricky due to its fit at the cylinder heads.
Also here I have measured the real position first and the CAD model was adapted to reality a couple of 0,1 mm only.
The situation at the heads was copied into a simple jig for the hard soldering operation.
tbc
-
... the moment was their to check the fit against the cylinder heads.
And surprises, it does fit nicely.
Next job tube bending.
A printed 1:1 drawing as a master for the trimming.
tbc
-
... another fixture for hard soldering was necessary.
And some more gaskets.
tbc
-
... at all, gaskets are needed a lot at this engine.
Before I have made the exhaust snorkel, the fake preheating should be finalized.
Preheating for the real engine is sure a very good function but for the model sure more or less not wanted.
So I was thinking about an invisible isolation here.
The result was a simple sleeve from fabric-base laminate with phenol resin.
A hard soldering was rejected, due to the lower temperatures expected here under running conditions.
So I took the risk, to soft solder it at the model itself.
tbc
-
... the rest of the engine was covered with some old and wet towel pieces under the aluminum film.
After polishing it looks nice for me.
Next to do, the clamping of the snorkel, a fabricated part again.
Still missing, some color on all new parts.
-
Wow! You really have made a LOT of progress, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Great fabrication skills. I love the soldering jigs. You really seem to have that down.
Kim
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Wow - that is impressive :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Did you find time to do this between making the Rally Van ?
Per :cheers:
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Wow! You really have made a LOT of progress, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Great fabrication skills. I love the soldering jigs. You really seem to have that down.
Kim
Hi Kim, thanks for popping in again.
-
Wow - that is impressive :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Did you find time to do this between making the Rally Van ?
Per :cheers:
Hi Per, thanks.
All the activities showing in the last days here so far and what will follow in the next couple of days, were done between beginning of March and beginning of July last year.
That was more or less parallel to the restoration work, mostly over the week end.
But than it stopped totally, due to the work load at the rally car.
-
Nice progress Achim, you are closing in on it.
Good to see you back in the shop!
Dave
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Hi Dave, thanks.
Surface on the just made parts, the next thing to attack.
Starting with the cylinder heads.
tbc
-
... followed by the remaining components like the exhaust manifold.
With the preheater pipe a little mishap has happend.
There was to much powder intruded inside the pipe, so a kind of press fit has accrued against the sleeve for isolation.
To get a light slip fit again, I thought a drill could solve the problem.
The drill has solved the problem finally, but the force, developed by turning it by hand was to much for the soft soldering.
My fault and a reason to try a powder stripping with Aceton vapours over night.
So again a soft soldering operation directly at the engine itself.
This time I have covered the internal surface of the tube with tape for the coating process.
tbc
-
... everything reassembled looks now similar to my color simulation in the CAD model.
In theory I have tried several ways to do a coating of the rocker arms too, but at the end it was always a nightmare to cover all the functionally surfaces properly.
Than the decision was made to give them to an external supplier for anodizing.
There is a company in the next village.
Unfortunately they have changed there terms of business and there is no quick line service possible anymore.
So the parts went to the whole industrial operation process and at the end I have got in weight more paperwork with documentation than the parts would show on a scale.
Useless to mention, that the price was in accordance to the paper work also.
Before the reassembly of the rocker arms I took the opportunity for a pressure release test at both cylinders, which was inconspicuous.
-
Hi everybody,
the next attack belongs to the cooling system.
The IHC part catalog von 1918, does show there a kind of cooling tower, similar the type which was usual at the traction engines in that period.
Doug Kelley and Jeff Conner (rustcolector here at MEM) have done some very nice design there as part of their own models.
Specially Jeff is going very deep in the details there, with some rivets, or dummy rivets, which keeps the whole box together, like the original.
Anyway, this cooling tower is a kind of its own project.
To combine optical aspects close to the real thing with "model" functionality was a challenge for me already.
Surely, it will not really keep any temperature down, but it should show the coolant circle, like the original.
After starting the design work, with all the other details, I have rejected any rivets in my interpenetration.
The fuel cell will be also a part of this component.
The result in the CAD model below.
Some special material was purchased.
The main case will be a piece of this big square aluminium tube.
tbc
-
... I have used the CNC mill for the hole pattern, so if I will do the same for the tank later, it should fit easily.
Soft soldering sometimes was a bit tricky, to much heat in it and it disconnected at already soldered places.
Same patient and little pieces of wet paper towels could help to avoid this effect.
The bottom part of the tank is made by a piece of aluminium plate.
tbc
-
... As Mike mentioned in his Mercedes post, some special contours are easily made by the CNC mill.
So I have given to the bottom plate a special shape, that all coolant will be guided to the out let always.
Finally the hole pattern for the fixation with the frame.
tbc
-
... to complete the frame, some nerves and a passion for fiddling was necessary.
But at the end step by step, we have got it.
Also with the help of the clamping in some special selected places to guide the heat away from sensitive places.
Finally the 4 mounting plates.
tbc
-
... By previous projects I have learned a way to do the soldering easily.
The square plates get a tinning first with some soft solder paste, the bars/ feet also.
Than get them in place with some soft solder past and apply some heat.
The result is always perfect.
Next, the tank body needs the windows.
tbc
-
... at one side, is also the inlet of the coolant pipes.
In my design the inlet is integrated into the lose top of the tank.
The relevant opening in the body was necessary also.
The hole pattern is always to fix the frame to the windows, which later will also hosts the mesh.
Frames for the windows, another job for the CNC mill, it will be very accurate done there.
The hole pattern is for some M2 studs, the thread milled already by the CNC with a thread whirler.
tbc
-
Hi Achim, Good to see you back after your adventure. Getting those cars through is a great achievement. If they like plenty of dust, perhaps now they would like to travel to Alice Springs for the Finke River Race.
In the mean time, good to catch up on the progress you have made.
MJM460
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... Frames, meshes and sealing.
Sealing was necessary, due to the not flat surface of the square aluminum tube.
Optical wise, the frames are bigger than the windows.
The windows are so small, due to increase the possible volume of coolant in the tank.
So there is a kind of pocket outside which could collect some coolant.
The gasket should keep it in there.
Two big frames and one smaller for the face side.
I have had the option between brass or SS mesh.
Brass could be soldered into the frame and should get the same coating/color as the frame than.
I was mot happy with that solution, because the overall impression would be one grey than.
So I have chosen the SS option and the mesh is lose now and does fit by clamping only.
Luckily the plotter was able to cut this very thin gaskets.
tbc
-
... here a gasket in situ.
The frames got studs for easier handling.
Next challenge the spray protection.
The first time that I have used sheet metal in Fusion 360 to get the proper dimensions.
In my first CAD model there was a solid made dummy in the design.
I have used the drawing as a pattern and the conventional mill for a proper boarder.
All my other sheet metal hand tools has been in the rally shop at this time apart from this single pair of snips.
tbc
-
... but at the end, always with the help of the conventional mill, we have got it nicely.
tbc
-
... at the end these spray protection sheets has been soft soldered to the frames.
Now the the top cover of the tank with water inlet was next to make.
Here was my idea to add some expanded sheet metal mesh as a guide for the flow of the coolant.
tbc
-
... last year I have made a little video to explain the circuit a bit.
For confirmation, some experiments with the pump and the general flow has been made and be shown there also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7_45-vGB_g
And some more pictures of the internals.
The two pins should later keep the cover over the filling slot in place.
Some plumbing could be started also.
tbc
-
... first time all in situ.
Only the last cover was missing.
tbc
-
... last but not least, the final surface, color.
All parts got a powder coating, exempt the coolant inlet pipe, because the connecting tube to the engine is missing so far.
-
And yet another huge update! Very nice job on the radiator, Achim! That's beautiful :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
I really like your powder coating. I find powder coating much more rewarding than other painting methods. Just my opinion!
Kim
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Hi Achim, Good to see you back after your adventure. Getting those cars through is a great achievement. If they like plenty of dust, perhaps now they would like to travel to Alice Springs for the Finke River Race.
In the mean time, good to catch up on the progress you have made.
MJM460
MJM460 thanks for watching.
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Hi Kim, thanks for popping in.
The next job calls for the plumber.
But the engine is still at is temporary basement.
At the very beginning of the project a wooden plate was prepared already, but due to it´s size, with the space for the coolant tower, I have rejected to use it during the engine build so far and this temporary plate was made as an interim solution for easier handling.
Unfortunately, the final plate was made before the concept with the position of the ignition system was clear.
So first the final plate needs a big cutout.
Before the cooling tower get its final home, the floor has to be prepared.
It will be the same, like used for the Bruce Macbeth engine, a thin layer of mahogany wood.
tbc
-
... nothing special only the brown stuff.
tbc
-
... possible family shot.
The wiring of the ignition system sorted and finalized also.
The latest S/S systems from Roy do have a red LED at the black box, which indicates the moment of firing.
A very nice feature, but in my case, with the box under the engine in the middle of the basement not visible.
So two options, to change it.
An extension by electrical wiring, means to cut the LED of and to add a cable by soft soldering
Or, to give the red light the opportunity to be visible 15 cm away from the LED also.
So my idea was, if it is possible to communicate with most of you, at the other side of the pond, all managed by glass fiber technologies, so it should be possible for me, to guide this small red light by this technologies also.
ebay was full with this stuff, so I purchase 1 m of a cable and made a small 3D printed adapter.
Another thing, still missing, the fixation of the coolant pump.
It was clear in advance, that all CAD design there will be a guess only, so by try and error I have fixed the position in situ with all real components.
tbc
-
... and here we are with the pump in situ.
And the powder coating was done also.
tbc
-
... now I could fix the coolant tower in its final position and start the plumbing activities.
tbc
-
... to fix the tubes a bit, I have designed a simple clamp, which was milled mostly by the computer.
And this was exactly the point, last year beginning of July, when I stopped all model engineering activities, due to the rally project.
The plumbing is currently continued, I will show it in a couple of days.
-
Nice progress Achim, you are closing in on it.
Good to see you back in the shop!
Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for watching.
Very nice your 3D printed squeeze mouldings.
-
Hi Achim, you are correct the cooling system is a major project in itself.
Like everything else your workmanship is superb and it came out just beautiful!
Dave
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Dave, thanks again.
In the meantime, the plumber poped in several times to get the coolant pipes done.
One pipe did not have the expected passing.
First idea , I have closed it by to much solder, but later I have found some sand sticking in the pipe.
I have to talk with the guy, who has done the bending last year in July as a side job.
tbc
-
... I could not resist to make this fake plug.
No thread, soft soldered into the fitting.
Due to the nearly finisher surrounding, the idea of soldering direct at the head was rejected.
So I have made a little jig.
tbc
-
... and here we are today.
One last remaining piece of tube is missing now.
-
Some very nice plumbing, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Thanks Kim. I do like your bell, very nice detail.
And here we are with the remaining plumbing.
A bent pipe and some soft solder paste.
And a leakage test.
The return flow was not soldered still so far.
-
Great job with the pipe fitting. I really like the cleanout plugs with the square heads - nice accurate details!
:popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Hi Chris, thanks.
I try to catch up your build report, but still not through all.
Cosmetics for the plumbing.
Powder coating is an issue for some seconds and it is done. Unfortunately the preparation and masking takes hours.
The globe valve has been disassembled completely and was cooked in fluid for brass blackening.
tbc
-
... and the rest of the day work.
Now I have to find a way the get the very tiny M 1,6 nuts at the flanges at the cylinder head.
I assume, that will be special challenge.
-
Your paint color scheme looks very nice, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
That's an interesting fixture you use for holding your pipework for powder coating. Do you put the whole wood fixture in the oven too? Does that cause you any problems? I seem to remember that the temp at which paper burns is 451F (thank you, Ray Bradbury ;)) Wood is a lot like paper. And the curing temp for the powder coat is around 450F. So I would worry that I might get a fire in my oven. I assume that hasn't been a problem for you? It doesn't even look charred when you use it for the next plumbing part. That's an interesting technique!
Kim
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Hi Kim, the wooden fixture in the oven is no problem.
My discounter toaster oven is adjusted at 180 -200 C° (356 - 392 ° F).
You can see my process check thermometer (also an discounter find) in one picture above.
Just coming out of the oven is does show 200° C.
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Hi Achim, beautiful work on that cooling system and piping, enhanced even more by a great paint job. Your cheap oven obviously has an expert operator.
MJM460
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Incredible results on the piping and paint. In the correct context/background you might think it is the full size version.
gerrit
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Glad to see you back on this :ThumbsUp: There is some complicated plumbing with that cooler system :praise2: I like the fibre optic link for the timing light :)
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Roger thanks.
Yes be back, but still some difficulties with the scale 1:10 after the rally car adventure.
Some fiddling around with 2,5 mm pins, M 2 as the thread in the 3 mm push road...
But at the end at cylinder one the loop is already closed by a sample assembly.
I could not resist to make small video from the first valve motion there
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYNPd7t_CO0
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Always rewarding to see the mechanism working properly for the first time, isn't it? That video also really shows the outstanding, and very tidy, craftsmanship of your work. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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I could not resist to make small video from the first vale motion there
Nor should you have resisted! That's a great video. :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
The whole valve train has such smooth motion. Very beautiful to watch! Thank you for sharing it.
Kim
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Lovely Video and as Kim and Ron mentions - very smooth action :praise2:
One Cam has a much longer duration than the other one ... :thinking:
:popcorn: :cheers:
Per
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Ron, Kim and Per, thank you very much for popping in and the friendly words.
Timing, yes Per, another issue to attack now.
The cam lobes are made in accordance with the original design of Doug Kelley so far.
A transfer into the here well known visualization format shows it in first picture below.
Second picture is the timing of the Bruce Macbeth Engine, which has shown finally the best and lowest idling so far, something about 460 revs/min.
If I compare both graphs, it does look similar.
So my idea, was there in 2022 already, to start with the original design of the cam lobes.
Sure the BME is a 4 cylinder engine and the Titan a two cylinder with another crankshaft concept, so we will see what will happen there in the hopefully near future.
-
More push rod cosmetic today.
Some powder coating again.
And blackening of brass parts.
I didn´t have a real plan, so first an experiment an test assembling.
But it looks nice overall.
The pin should get nicer shape also.
tbc...
-
... and some more powder coating from very small parts.
No it is fine for me.
Cylinder #2 is waiting still, the Loctite has to cure.
-
Hi everybody, we do need a fuel cell also.
Made by the well known concept, with Aluminium parts, glued together by Epoxy glue.
-
Hi everybody,
more fuel cell progress.
Nothing special, nearly same procedure as ever engine so far.
Aluminium parts, glued together with some Epoxy glue.
Step by step and ever time the assembly for 10 minutes by 100° C into the the toaster oven.
Next to do, some straps by 2 mm SS to fix it to the frame.
-
Your gas tank looks great, Achim! You've certainly got that process down! :Lol: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
Kim
-
Hi Kim, thanks for watching.
Parquet sealing the next job to do.
And some wooden strips around as an enclosure.
-
Hi Achim, beautiful work on that base to show off your beautiful engine.
MJM460
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Excellent work on the base :praise2: :wine1:
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MJM460, Roger, thanks for following along and the friendly words.
Some progress with the wooden base and the fuel cell.
The wooden strips are black painted now.
The PVC fuel pipe is hidden in a black coated 6 x 0,35 mm brass tube.
And the fuel cell is fixed by two 2 mm SS straps with M2 thread at both ends.
-
The paint color combo along with the color of the wood make a very pleasing look! Nicely done, Achim! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Thanks Kim, beauty is one thing, but functionality an other one. I am coming closer to the truth now.
The last beauty related bolts has been replaced by closing the coolant circle again.
Still an open issue so far, how to get this bloody M 1,6 "Modellbaumuttern" wrench size 2,5 mm on the 8 studs.
Finally a tooth stick did it.
Enough friction to keep the nut temporary at the stick and not enough friction to use the connection as a temporary spherical joint.
So I cold turn it 1 to 1,5 turn for first fixation.
The rest could be done with a 2,5 mm socket wrench, pushing the valves down and moving the rockers into a lower position.
It looks so easy at the pictures, but for information, the cylinder head studs are M3 an the nuts there have standard wrench size 5,5 mm.
-
And now we are very close to the truth.
Will it give the first pops ?
Preparation for timing is done.
I will start with Ignition 5° before TDC.
Outlet will starts opening at 45° before BDC.
Inlet will start opening at 10° after TDC.
-
Exciting time! :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Anticipating first Pop :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
You just reminded me about another reason why I probably never will make a true model - those Nut are down to a size where they are no fun anymore :o
Per :cheers:
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Hi Per, may I proudly present, the first pops.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzJ4TaqvjCY
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Hi Achim, that is wonderful. What a rewarding first run. Congratulations.
MJM460
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What a great sound, congratulations
gerrit
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I would say that it Runs Very well :ThumbsUp: and if this was first attempt at starting it => Very satisfying for you :cheers:
Per
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Congratulations Achim, a wonderful set of first pops! The engine runs as great as it looks, and so nicely finished off. Beautiful work!:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
-
Spectacular!
-
Wonderful :praise2: :wine1: That's more than just a few pops :)
-
I congratulate you on this well-running engine. Sounds good.
Michael
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Congrats Achim!
Very nice!
Dave
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Congratulations, Achim! It runs as good as it looks! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :cheers:
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Hi everybody, thank you very much for popping in and all the friendly comments.
Yesterday I archive a run time of nearly 60 minutes, 125 ml of fuel has been burned.
The engine does not like to start in cold conditions as the set up is now.
I have a miss lined set up of the cylinder #2 tappets in front of the cam lobes.
The gap should be 0,1 mm but is 0,35 mm there.
That ends in a different opening duration of the valves. See attached chart.
The opening duration is shorten by nearly 40° and we have a long time of everything closed between exhaust fully closed and inlet starts to open.
Nearly 50 degrees, that is not good.
The temperature has been fine, cooling worked well.
But the early morning inspection, shows a crankshaft failure.
Just when I fixed the timing wheel again, purpose was to check what has happened during the first breaking-in with the timing of the engine, I noticed a strange movement of the flywheel at cylinder #2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0nH1-6YKkA
First idea, to make a fixture to clamp the crankshaft at the main and con-rod bearings and glue it with Loctite 648.
Additionally a taper pin, similar to ISO 2339 will be set.
I have to think about it before I will start the final action.
First of all, draining the cooling system and a disassembly of the crank drive.
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Ouch, I'm sure that crank failure would be frustrating for you. Having worked closely in the past with a colleague from your area, I can almost hear some of the words you may have used! Otherwise the test run seems to have been quite positive, the other issues are more like the normal "teething" troubles. Getting nearly an hour of steady running and with good cooling is a great result!
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Hi everybody, I am sure it is related to my problem with the silver soldering with the crank shaft some time ago.
https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,10565.msg250127.html#msg250127
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Hi everybody,
after a break and thinking about a possible salvage of the crankshaft I have made an attack to it today.
So first the cooling was drained and than I have disassembled the crank drive.
And now the naked truth is laying on the table.
There is still a kind of slip fit if you try to split both parts.
The pictures saying more than my words could do.
The crankshaft flange has been made by ST37 (S235JR) the cheapest construction steel at the German market and with very low quality.
Looking into the hole, it could seen all surface is black.
That means due to the long heating during the brazing of the whole part, the surface has get a lot of oxide scale, which does not allow the flux and silver solder to flow.
Very interesting, some very small drops of silver solder have found the way into the gap and can be seen as kind of small isles in the black see.
I will try to make a salvage with Loctite 648 and a taper pin.
The special reamer is ordered, the pins also.
A kinds of jig/fixture is in my head, I will make the design tomorrow.
And yes, some thoughts about the other 7 soldered connections between rod and cheap construction steel are in my mind also.
-
Good to hear that you found out why it failed :ThumbsUp:
I hope that you find a satifying solution :LittleAngel:
Per :cheers:
-
This failure really stinks with an otherwise outstanding build.
I'm confident that you will come to a workable solution soon.
Good luck soon.
Thanks, Sid
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Per, Sid thanks for watching.
Here my idea for a fixture so far.
I will start to make it now.
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That fixture should work great to keep it all aligned and supported. :popcorn: :popcorn:
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A start is done.
Good to remember how to move a mill table manually.
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Hi everybody, now the first step is done.
The fixture is finished.
Pin and hole are cleaned.
First by polishing and second chemical wise with acetone.
Both parts jointed and finally adjusted in the fixture.
I have used Loctite 648 to glue it.
Now I will wait 24h until tomorrow at noon.
If it still will run properly in the main bearings of the engine, than I can start with step 2.
2,5 mm hole should be drilled and prepared for 2,5 mm taper pin.
The reamers arrived today, pins should come tomorrow.
Plan is to drill a hole through the glued connection and to ad a pin there with Loctite too.
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Some patience was necessary, but I have been steadfast until this morning.
Now the first test in the main bearings of the engine again.
I have been positive surprised, it is running nearly true again.
If I fix the nuts on the bearing, at the side where it happened, than I can feel a spot with some more resistance in the turning movement.
But in my feeling, nothing to worry about really.
The attempt to measure it has shown a run out of about 0,01 to 0,015 mm.
The other side, were it is absolutely free turning, I can measure a run out of about 0,04 mm.
So it will be time now get the tapered 2,5 mm hole into the crankshaft creek and to get the taper pin inside there.
I will take the old mishap crankshaft from spring 2022 as a sample the test the process with the tapered reamer.
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Fingers crossed for a satisfactory outcome and a well Running Engine afterwards :cheers:
Per
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Hopefully your repair works :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: It's looking good so far :)
Are you going to pin the other joints as a back up as well?
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Hi Roger,
I have thinking about that a long time, but currently rejected.
Finished the experiments in the old crankshaft half an hour ago.
First attempt was a bit to optimistic with the depth.
But second attempt was better.
Using the quill of the mill with its fine feed was very helpfully and save also.
But anyway, it shows me that an additional hole in the fixture was necessary.
The real crankshaft was done in a couple of minutes than.
Now I will let it cure until tomorrow morning.
The pin was also dipped in some Loctite 648 and than fixed by some blows of a small hammer.
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Are you going to pin the other joints as a back up as well?
Hi Roger,
45 Minutes more runtime later with the so far repaired crankshaft I do know exactly now, that my decision was wrong.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ4LVXKj63c
But it doesn`t matter.
I have had so much fun in this 45 Minutes, with a slightly modified timing.
I my eyes it runs with around 600 rev/min and lower nearly like a hit & miss engine.
The fixture is available, and the way to it do it is known.
And yes, all the other remaining connections will get a pin too.
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Ouch! Well, at least the fixture is already built! :popcorn:
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Bummer! Well, as Chris said, at least you know the fix and have the jig made already.
You'll have it back up and running in no time, I'm sure!
Very nice run, too! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
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Per, Chris, Kim thanks for watching and the friendly words.
This morning I have started the disassembly again.
Second time is always faster.
With the blue tape as a stop marking at the taper reamer it was a kind of easy going for all holes.
So we do have 8 taper pins at all possible critical connections now.
The holes has been cleaned with some acetone before setting the pins with Loctite 648.
Afterward immediately some oil for corrosion protection.
Over the lunchtime I have give it some time to cure.
Now, a couple of minutes ago, I have made the first test if it is still running true.
It does.
So I will leave now everything as it is and go ahead with the assembly tomorrow.
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Hi everybody.This morning was very successful so far.
The engine is back in long run condition.
Just finished with an empty fuel cell by another 75 Minutes of additional run time.
No new crankshaft failures detected so far.
Some dynamic pictures attached.
I have made some video recording, too, will try to make a small movie later.
The break in is very successful so far, it is possible to run the engine the with around 450 U/min.
A piece a paper, giving more friction to the throttle barrel there, was very helpful there.
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Great news! Its looking excellent, am looking forward to the video. :ThumbsUp:
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Great news! Its looking excellent, am looking forward to the video. :ThumbsUp:
Hi Chris, thank you very much.
And here the video as promised.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwQafR7W4ok
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Congratulations on a very successful build and run!
Beautiful craftsmanship all around.
What's next?
Sid
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Excellent run, Achim! Glad you got the crankshaft issues worked out it seems to run beautifully now for extended periods. :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
Great video. It seems to idle quite slowly too!
Kim
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A very succesful rescue job Achim :ThumbsUp:
Sounds and runs very well :praise2:
Love the 'Blue Cheating Water' to make it more visible ;D
Per :cheers:
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: Now you need to build a tractor to fit it in :stickpoke:
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Congratulations on a very successful build and run!
Beautiful craftsmanship all around.
What's next?
Sid
Hi Sid, thanks.
My supplier told me, there should be a crankcase hidden in this lump pf aluminium.
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Excellent run, Achim! Glad you got the crankshaft issues worked out it seems to run beautifully now for extended periods. :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
Great video. It seems to idle quite slowly too!
Kim
Hi Kim, thanks.
I have been very surprised by myself, that it runs with under 400 revs now.
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A very succesful rescue job Achim :ThumbsUp:
Sounds and runs very well :praise2:
Love the 'Blue Cheating Water' to make it more visible ;D
Per :cheers:
Hi Per, thanks.
The blue coolant is normal automotive coolant.
I have chosen this blue ones, because I d not like the other colors like raspberry red or the even more horrible poison green.
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: Now you need to build a tractor to fit it in :stickpoke:
Hi Roger, thanks.
The inspiration for Doug Kelley to design this model was a picture of the parts catalog from 1918, if I remember right.
See picture attached.
Is does clearly show a stationary application of this engine.
In October 2021, i have already prepared a generator, may be to fit in my diorama.
https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,10565.msg246726.html#msg246726
Today I have give it a black powder coating, it was necessary to disassembly it again.
Inside is a small Chinese e-motor hidden.
Now it is reassembled again, mechanical wise no problem, but electrical wise I failed.
I have tried to is run it as an e-motor several times today after reassembly, but it does not like anymore.
The data of the e-motor has been
12 V
0,13 A current consumption
and 10.000 U/min
What ever I do, I will get max 1.000 u/min with my Titan and loosing the nice sound then, with a not known output at the moment, surly very little.
So my decision, it will be added as a fake.
The design is done and a suitable belt is ordered.
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Hi Achim,
Yes quite a few tractor engines were also available for stationary use.
I have been using this type of motor as a generator, it is designed for lower speeds:
https://www.conrad.ch/de/p/mfa-torpedo-800-schiffsmodell-brushed-elektromotoren-222378.html
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Hi Roger,
thanks for the link.
Good to know, that there is something already tested, available.
For my application here, may a bit to big, but for any future project surely suitable.
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Hi Achim. I'm glad the crank repair was so successful and that lovely engine is running as well as you could wish for. Looking forward to the final diorama display! :cheers:
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Hi Ron, yes indeed, I am also very happy about it. Until now something about 325 Minutes runtime already done.
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Congratulations on a very successful build and run!
Beautiful craftsmanship all around.
What's next?
Sid
Hi Sid, thanks.
My supplier told me, there should be a crankcase hidden in this lump pf aluminium.
I have every faith that you will find it in there soon enough!
Sid
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Today I have made the basement for the generator.
In truth the computer has done it.
Waiting for the ordered flat belt now.
A pulley for the generator was also made.
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Waiting for the belt and some diorama work.
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Hi everybody,
I have got the belt and did the final diorama work.
A vintage switch, some fake gauges for voltage and ampere....
The engine is running with the extra belt drive and the with "no load" running generator same way as before.
Some old fuel barrels also added, sure necessary, because just a couple of minutes ago the engine stopped with empty fuel cell.
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Love the diorama, Achim! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
The electrical pannel is great. And the fire extinguisher looks the part!
Kim
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Lovely Diorama Achim :ThumbsUp:
Per :cheers:
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A nice engine with many interesting additional units.
Maybe I can take a look at the engine at an exhibition sometime.
(The fire extinguisher doesn't have a test sticker! You know, everything here needs a test sticker! 😁)
Michael
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: Did you get any useful output from the generator (a couple of LEDs)?
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The diorama setting and details look great, and add so much to the overall presentation of the engine. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
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Kim, Per, Micheal, Roger and Ron, thanks for popping in and the friendly comments.
A member of our German Forum pushed me bit to show some electrical action also.
The generator will not give the right output for some constant light, so I got the recommendation to create some fake action too.
Here the quick and dirty final result now.
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Hi Achem, always good to see the story complete.
Perhaps you could use rechargeable batteries and connect some diodes so the generator charges the batteries when it runs. Then when you switch on the light it would not really be fake.
It’s been a wonderful build to follow. Thanks for showing it so well.
MJM460