Two inch Clarkson Vertical.

[scc]

You are absolutely correct Jason, all our big engines at work have them. Silly of me to not think of that   One neck bush now made and fitted. The bore was machined with the bush in the cover to ensure it's concentric.            Terry

[scc]

Time to start on the cylinder.  Not wishing to waste material I decided to remove the core by drilling.  I seem to remember Andrew doing something similar some time ago.  Apart from scribing a guide line on each end it was all done freehand.  Cylinder held in the 3 jaw from my long gone Colchester and using a 4mm drill carefully positioned by eye.  Drilled half depth then repeated from the other end. A little  work and I have my cylinder ready to bore plus a nice piece of iron for future use.             Terry

[scc]

Bored the cylinder cautiously yesterday, I'm quite pleased with the result. Machined to final length and finished both ends. I tack welded a spare boss to the chain drilled top cover to enable it to be chucked and machine the top face. Removed the boss, turned it around and machined
 the  inside spigot. Both covers now fit nice on the cylinder.
I decided to finish machine the trunk guide at home rather than wait until I'm allowed to go to work and use the big lathe. The result was a nice finish but with a 2thou taper     I got out the brake cylinder hone and gently tickled one end. It worked     Perhaps unconventional, but needs must!  next bit is the crosshead.......or perhaps the port block....or perhaps the cylinder cover studs      While all this was quietly going on the hacksaw was cutting the material for the port block.  The resulting loud bang when the offcut dropped unexpectantly raised the old heart rate for a moment           Few comments but steady increase in the view count.....Thanks for looking in.             Terry   

[scc]

This forum has taught me a lot For  instance  when making a part I would cut a piece of material just a bit oversize and then start machining, etc, I now leave the part on parent metal to do most of the work, parting off at the end,  holding problems greatly reduced.   Thank you Forum members.

The crosshead has been a good example....the pics explain. Not having got round to a Z axis readout on the mill I had to improvise.                      I have set up the bottom cover on the  drill to sort the cylinder fixings  ( not enough "feel" on the mill)         Terry

[scc]

Still enjoying the surprising amount of shed time at the moment,   I have been drilling for the cylinder studs.  Did the bottom cover on the rotary table first...tapping size of course.  Next I put it on the cylinder and drilled through. Same for the top cover and top end of the cylinder.  Threads and clearance holes to come next.   Lacking confidence to trust the rotary table consistency I chose to spot through the covers ..Drill a hole,  pop in a snug screw,  another hole, another screw, etc You get the picture.  Always works well.       Terry       

[Jasonb]

Looking good.

Just remember to mark the covers so they can go back on in the same position, with that many screws on the Clarkson there are a lot of combinations to try if it does not line up first time

[scc]

Jason, I have a set of 3mm number stamps so ALL bits get marked for correct orientation....Been caught before         Cheers    Terry

[pgp001]

I have just been making the cylinder end covers for Agnes, one of them has 22 stud holes which is a bit weird for dividing on the Boley rotary table, I used a similar method and made the cover to use as a drilling jig for the tapped holes in the cylinder.
The difference is I used the DRO hole circle function on the Boley jig borer to produce the holes in the cover, and I was well impressed that the cover will actually fit in any orientation.

That DRO is something I would never have purchased a few years ago, but I would not be without it now.

Phil

[scc]

Phil   I'm afraid the budget doesn't run to DRO although it would be nice    my system of dial gauges covers basic needs (just).  I have a perverse sense of satisfaction working with old minimal equipment     Good to hear that you are pressing on with Agnes.

Not being in the mood for tapping lots of 6ba threads I have started on the port block.   Squared up a lump of cast iron then needed to machine a curved face to match the cylinder. Necessary because cylinder wall is too thin to accept a flat interface.     The only way I could see to do this was to use an old fly cutter in the mill. The spigot for the mill collet is only 3/8in so it all seemed a bit risky    Took small cuts and held my breath......all worked out ok.  The visible line halfway down the block was due to me having a rest up and down on the heavy knee handwheel took it's toll. Further cuts were non-stop.  Fortunately the little Raglan mill is very rigid and handled the intermittent cuts well.
Just need to bring the block to size now.         Terry

[scc]

A further visit to the scrapbinium mines produced a short piece of hot rolled mild steel of 2" x 1" section. I could see a valve chest inside it so milled surfaces to size.  Outlines were marked out in the traditional manner and machining commenced.           Terry

[scc]

Oops!   Marking out pic shows the chest COVER ,  Apologies but you get the idea.              Terry

[Kim]

That makes more sense. The piece in the mark out pic didn't match your description at all - I couldn't see the valve chest inside of it at least! 

Looking good, Terry!
Kim

[scc]

Not much going on at present.....loads of drilling and tapping.   Last bit today was tapping the threads for the port block onto the cylinder. It will be bonded as well.            Terry

[scc]

Good weather this morning so caught up on some gardening jobs.  Shed time spent on the cylinder and port block.  Milled the two steam apertures and drilled through into the port block.  Started to rough out  the outer ports. I do not have a long enough end mill so will have to mill from both sides. Cylinder is fabricated not cast so steam passages will be milled into the mating face of the port block.  I shall leave the honing of the cylinder bore until after all machining is completed.         Terry

[scc]

The port block is now finished. Next step is to mount it on the cylinder. I have spent some time working the two together with grinding paste in the interface.  Both faces are marking evenly, bluing seems to confirm this.  I cannot decide what to use for a seal.... JB,   Blue Hylomar, Steamseal, or even a thin gasket?  Anyone with advice.......not having a suitable boiler it's unlikely to be steamed.           Terry