Engines > Restoration of Model Engines
Rob Routledge Andrew Barclay
Caber:
I just bought the chassis of a Rob Roy on eBay for a lot less money than the castings cost. It looks reasonably well made however it is impossibly stiff. Having stared at it for a while I realised that the frames are a bit bent. It looks like it has fallen on its right side quite heavily, there is a ding in the rear buffer, the frame is bent at the right motion bracket as if it landed on that also the rear of the frame is displaced to the left.
So my first question is are the frames likely to be recoverable and able to be straightened, if so how would I set about that?
Second question is that as Rob Roy is basically modelled after a Caledonian Railway Pug it would seem a good position to start to build a Barclay. I have a fondness for them as I used to go Pug spotting in the early 1970s having missed mainline steam.
So my first question is are the frames likely to be recoverable and able to be straightened, if so how would I set about that?
I could make the tank and plate work look like a Barclay which would be a start.
If the frames are not likely to be recoverable then using the mechanical basics to build a Barclay on new frames seems a good possibility. To that end I have three significant questions:
1 All the appropriate Barclays seem to have inclined cylinders. Is it possible to build the new frames with the existing cylinder and valve blocks inclined as long as the radius to the crank axle is maintained?
2 After about 1902 Barclays used an 8 spoke pattern wheel with heavy square spokes. Can anyone suggest a suitable 3" diameter wheel casting that might be able to look right? The back of some wheel castings look almost right but tend to have more than 8 spokes.
3 I am currently thinking of using the Rob Roy boiler design, however if it is a more accurate model, the dome, clacks and safety valve positions will need to move. I presume this shouldn't be a big issue, also the boiler is set lower in the frames in some older locomotives I assume this could be done with a shortened firebox?
The engine as received
Pugs as I remember them just think to be authentic I never have to clean the loco or worry about blowing glands or dodge plate work
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steamer:
Welcome Caber!
Nice looking project you have there! We are all very glad to hear that it has a new home with someone looking to get it running! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
When you have a few moments, do us a grand favor, and tell us a little about yourself, what you get onto in the shop, what part of the country are you from ect, so we can relate, and even if this day and age, dare I say get together in a distanced kind of way.
I'm from Massachusetts, but I'm betting you''re from the UK...
Again, Welcome!
Dave
Jo:
--- Quote from: Caber on May 31, 2020, 02:55:31 PM ---So my first question is are the frames likely to be recoverable and able to be straightened, if so how would I set about that?
--- End quote ---
The original frames are not complicated you could cause yourself no end of grief trying to work with "straightened" frames :paranoia: so make a new set. Keep the old ones to check measurements and don't assume it was built accurately to the drawings :hellno:
Jo
Caber:
--- Quote from: steamer on May 31, 2020, 03:37:08 PM ---Welcome Caber!
Nice looking project you have there! We are all very glad to hear that it has a new home with someone looking to get it running! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
When you have a few moments, do us a grand favor, and tell us a little about yourself, what you get onto in the shop, what part of the country are you from ect, so we can relate, and even if this day and age, dare I say get together in a distanced kind of way.
I'm from Massachusetts, but I'm betting you''re from the UK...
Again, Welcome!
Dave
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the replies! I am in Edinburgh , Scotland. I have had a very long term interest in steam engines and have collected a few stationary engines over the decades. I also have the basics of a workshop including a Myford ML7 which I am about to move along with other stuff into a nicer workshop space than where it currently is. Over the years I have done a number of projects including restoring old Land Rovers and building a Locost sports car. This has taught me a fair number of skills, some more transferable than others. As I am rapidly heading for retirement I should have some time to get into the model engineering mind space for this project!
So I will need some guidance and help in what is reasonable in terms of my ideas and aspirations hence the questions!
Cheers! Kevan
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Zephyrin:
If you are sure that the loco (gauge ?) was not stiff from the build, ran well before the accident, I will simply straighten the frame, knowing that getting these 3 axles with suspension and coupled by articulated connecting rods to run without hard points is a job that can be very time consuming...
making a new frame would certainly imply making new rods...
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