Author Topic: 3D printer - cheap as chips  (Read 20823 times)

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2020, 05:39:41 PM »
Jo:

A pair of pliers WILL work as a crimping tool, but it's sooooo much nicer to use the proper crimper.  The tool won't cost much more than the assortment of connectors that you got.

Just be sure that you buy a crimper that is specifically for the 2.54mm pitch that the JST connectors use.  Don't believe it if it says it is suitable for JST and Dupont connectors.  A crimper with dies for a Dupont connector will slice the end off of a JST terminal - DAMHIK!  I bought a couple of Dupont style crimpers before I tumbled onto that fact.

As a not yet retired electrical engineer I can sympathize with your opinion of the wiring, when I built my 3D printer the wiring looked like a rat's nest at first too.  If you don't already have some, get an assortment of Dupont connectors too, they'll come in handy for cleaning up the mess, and for when you want to add the bells and whistles like LED work lights and part cooling fans.

Don
« Last Edit: January 06, 2020, 07:32:02 PM by ddmckee54 »

Offline Flyboy Jim

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2020, 05:43:30 PM »
I am calling an end to the day... It is wired up and the wiring looks like that in the manual  :lolb: As a retired Electronics engineer it is not staying like that  :hellno: I am going to read the manual now, then more tomorrow...

Jo

Back in my world, when I was working at Tektronics, all the Electronic Engineers wiring looked like that................. it was up to us Electronic Technicians to make it look nice.  :LittleDevil:

Jo, I'm really interested to see how you get from an idea, to designing, to programing, to the finished part.  :thinking:

Jim
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Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2020, 09:07:26 PM »
I've been having a little further fiddle with it   ::)

It happily drives the X and Y axis using the built in controller but that missing connector is the one that controls the Z axis i.e. the one that sets the print head height so until I find a replacement connector or the new one turns up there will be no printing  :(

Edit: I  tried further attempts with the Z axis and the wires are connected to the push to break terminals on the limit switch. Hence without the connections in place the printer is thinking it is already at the bottom ready to print and backs the head off a couple of mm to start with.

Jo
« Last Edit: January 06, 2020, 10:26:34 PM by Jo »
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Offline Allen Smithee

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2020, 09:41:04 PM »
If it's a JST-XH I may have some spares (or even some pigtails, which would side-step the crimp tool issue). Ping me a photo and If I have something I might drop it over tomorrow morning (I don't go back to work until wednesday).

AS
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Offline jadge

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2020, 09:58:19 PM »
Here's a link to a thread (on another forum  :embarassed:) where I discuss the accuracy achievable from a 25mm cube. The thread also contains the usual naysayer, who I properly stitched up. Although being rude about the printers and finish, and claiming all sorts of expertise, he finally admitted in a PM that he had no idea how to use one.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=88453&p=1

Don't know why the pictures don't show. I may have deleted them in a long forgotten fit of pique.

I've used my 3D printer for production parts (in XT for the higher glass transition temperature) for remote gas sensing and recording equipment we sell:



Some of the parts would be very difficult to machine, and production quantities don't justify injection moulding:



Other odd areas have been press tooling:



And the gear change for my traction engine, after I'd re-designed it, as the drawings were a fantasy:



The 3D printed gear change worked perfectly from the off, unlike the metal version that took me weeks to get going.

I like to prototype parts before I machine in metal to check form and fit. Like these hollow pistons for the traction engines:



And an internal gear and pinion, just out of curiosity:



If you can draw it you can print it. For most of my printing I use PLA unless I need higher temperature capability. Never got on with ABS; darn stuff wouldn't stick to the heated baseplate and seemed to suffer for distortion.

Andrew


Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2020, 10:18:59 PM »
If it's a JST-XH I may have some spares (or even some pigtails, which would side-step the crimp tool issue). Ping me a photo and If I have something I might drop it over tomorrow morning (I don't go back to work until wednesday).

AS

This is the missing connector Pete, if you have any it would be very useful and avoid delays :)

Work  :paranoia:

Jo
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Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2020, 10:22:38 PM »
If you can draw it you can print it. For most of my printing I use PLA unless I need higher temperature capability. Never got on with ABS; darn stuff wouldn't stick to the heated baseplate and seemed to suffer for distortion.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew,

I am assuming that this cheap printer will have various alignment of layer issues but for the sort of thing I am likely to normally need it for it does not matter.

Jo
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Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2020, 10:37:44 PM »
You probably already know this...

I don't know what software you're going to use, but there's generally quite a few settings to figure out.
Temperature (obviously). It can differ depending on the material you're printing.
Thickness of layer.
Flatness/squareness of bed to printer head.
Speeds and gear ratios. For calibration it's useful to run the head in both directions of each axis to get the gear ratio.
Etc.

That initial print of a 'dam' around the part is essential.

The same material from two different suppliers may require different settings.

Frustration will come. My 1st 3D printer was a kit and a subsequent nightmare (for me).
Besides the settings was getting the bed set up so the first layers would stick. Some people use blue masking tape, hair spray, or glue sticks.
My 2nd 3D printer was an out-of-the box system which was great so long as I used the same vendor's material.
The bed is of some material that I've had few problems with the part sticking to it. I have no idea what it is. Mine is a Lulzbot Mini.

You have more patience than I so you'll be good.

As for ideas...I've printed a bunch of stuff for the shop to hold tools, oscilloscope probes, etc.
Printed a disk to cover the 'eye' on the kitchen fan because every time we changed the channel the TV, the overhead fan would turn on.
Hooks to hang up our Christmas stockings. Hooks to hang up our bathing suits.
Several mechanical system prototypes like a rower. Also a cruddy finger treadle engine that my grand-daughter loved.
Even some two color signs to warn people to open the garage door slowly.

You'll get lots of ideas.

BTW Every time I go out for curry...I think of you.
Bummer I retired before I could get back to the UK for a meet up.
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Offline Allen Smithee

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2020, 10:44:05 PM »
This is the missing connector Pete, if you have any it would be very useful and avoid delays :)

I have one in the form of a spare 2s balance lead that I'll never be using - you can just join the wires (solder, terminal block or whatever).

I'll drop it over in the morning - let me know if you also want some heatshrink to cover the solder joints with.

AS
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Offline crueby

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2020, 12:17:05 AM »
Those darn chickens and eggs, always in the wrong order - if you had the printer going you could print the connector housing...  :censored:

Interested to see how this all comes out!

Offline Pete49

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2020, 03:39:24 AM »
You will have little problem with the PLA but the ABS requires more heat bed and nozzle. Better if its an enclosed printer for that stuff. My PLA printer is an open frame like yours and even the same frame as yours. My ABS is a da vinci I bought years ago and it prints that well. My 3rd open frame printer I have converted to laser cutter and am playing with it currently. Its a disease I tells ya, infectious disease.
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Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #26 on: January 07, 2020, 07:33:59 AM »
I'll drop it over in the morning - let me know if you also want some heatshrink to cover the solder joints with.

Thanks Pete  :) I have heat shrink already

Jo
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Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #27 on: January 07, 2020, 11:18:42 AM »
Thank you Pete for dropping that off it is all fitted and hopefully we can move forward.

Soft soldering on the extension wires to the correct connector went ok but then I still found the printer still would not home (go to its default starting point) so out came the measuring meter and I found the wire on the same switch was broken.

I decided that I would check that the two vertical threaded shafts was correctly set up by using a level before finally trying to home the head and realised that not only was the stop  :censored: but where I had screwed in the head meant the thread had to extend a long way. So I unbolted the printer head and used the alternative mounting holes at the bottom of the bracket which raised the head by about 20mm. I am not sure if I appreciate the drive mechanism for the print material it looks just to be a gear drive onto the side of the print material  :thinking:

I have tried to neaten up the cables but as every thing moves in every direction there is not a lot you can do. The importance of doing this was shown when on trying to demonstrate the homing to Pete a wire trapped itself between the carriage and the stop switch  :ShakeHead: .

We may be ready to go  :naughty:

Jo
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Offline steamer

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #28 on: January 07, 2020, 01:28:14 PM »
Those look like the connector beasties but I am not waiting for them to turn up on the slow boat from China  :ShakeHead: As this is the second time I have needed one of these I've ordered a box of 560 of various sizes of them should be here in a couple of days (not going to try getting the Chinese supplier to replace them could be waiting ages) My crimping tool will be a pair of pliers  ::)

Any suggestions Dave, or any one else, on fun things to make I am all ears. I believe a bezel is on the order list so far.


I am calling an end to the day... It is wired up and the wiring looks like that in the manual  :lolb: As a retired Electronics engineer it is not staying like that  :hellno: I am going to read the manual now, then more tomorrow...

Jo

William has been working on his combat robot.    1 pound ant weight ...all plastic.    He's been working on getting the most out of PLA as it's cheap and if you use the right parameters, is pretty damn strong.  Additionally, not all PLA is created equal and you can get wildly different performance and usability from different suppliers and print parameters.    I'll talk to William and see if he can share his experience with the group....All I can say is when the 1.75" weapon drum spins up to its full 30,000 rpm...and then nails a small block of aluminum.....I've already taken 3 steps back standing behind the door :o.....and the drum and the rest of the robot are printed from PLA.  It takes some chunks out, but it keeps going....the balance suffers.


I've been using it as a training tool for William, so he can understand the development process, and as a prototyping tool, for tooling ect.     It's nice to noodle machine set ups, and you can plan your order of operations and tooling by making models of the partially machined part to check set ups ect.

Dave
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Offline Jo

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Re: 3D printer - cheap as chips
« Reply #29 on: January 07, 2020, 01:42:19 PM »
Thanks Dave all useful information.


I have been trying to level the bed... And as you can see I have pulled the printer apart  :(

I initially thought the problem was that the piece of plyboard under the hot plate was warped and as I tried to use the adjusters it was just pulling up the X axis but further investigation showed that the X axis guide bar is warped as is the front panel  :ShakeHead:

As the bars are 8mm I am going to replace the bottom pair with M8 Studding. If I can find 8mm Stainless long enough I will replace the top two bars with solid. This will give it some weight which should help with the twisting action I have been noticing. I may also replace the end panel with a piece of Ali if I can find a suitable bit: I think I was given some of that revolting Ali which is like soft cheese to work with this is an ideal use for it  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
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