30ft 1890's navy steam launch 1/6th scale

[crueby]

The two-halves method is how the one on the Sabino works - two halves for each collar section and bearing to fit in.

Here is a view of it together:


Here is an exploded view:

The red center piece clamps tight on the crankshaft and turns with it. Either side of it are bronze bearing halves with sections of tube shapes that go into the gray halves, which are held by the horizontal rods either side. Those rods have big adjusting nuts to adjust the pressure on the red piece. All can come apart without removing the crankshaft, and no fixed disc on the shaft needed.
Hope that helps!

[Michael S.]

very well explained
thanks for showing.

Greetings Michael

[MJM460]

Hi Tghs, glad to see that you are going to make the thrust bearing functional.  It would be a pity to omit that after all the other wonderful work you are putting into the project.  Even tragic.

And think of poor Slim.  Hasn’t he lost enough, with out being put through the indignity of seeing the crankshaft pushed through the front of the engine by the propellor for lack of a functioning thrust bearing?

Still following quietly along.  It’s beautiful work, skilfully executed.

MJM460

[tghs]

started fitting up some of the main brass parts to the wood hull parts,, I've have collected  all needed woods for the hull, plans are to build this winter..

[crueby]

Beautiful shapes!!   

[Admiral_dk]

Reminds me off Classic Huls out of the water seen around the Harbours in my youth 

I hope that you will post some of the progress here 

Per

[tghs]

building with the period correct woods can be a challenge, the white oak is tough stuff!!! to get the shaft bore done had to break-out some metal tools, made a centering fixture and drilled 1/4 pilot holes from each end, auger drilled to open up the hole, big reamers and rasp to get it up to size.. finished size 9/16ths to fit a 1/2" shaft tube,, still deciding on shaft size 1/4 vs 5/16ths will have to see what bearings are available, the prop end of the shaft tube will have a enlarged end to fit the rudder shoe fitting , this will allow for fitting a bigger bearing and seal..

[tghs]

added some brass to the shoe tip so it could be drilled for the rudder pin,, a little percussive engineering to get the correct fit,, needed to bed the fitting to the keel section without filling the shaft bore with epoxy.. turned a balsa shaft to keep the bore clear..bungie cord can make great clamps for odd shapes..

[crueby]

... a little percussive engineering to get the correct fit...

Love that term!   

[tghs]

the horn on my bench anvil and a small brass hammer worked nicely,

[tghs]

with the heavy stern keel work done, started the heavy work on the bow sections and fitting the brass cut-water,, not much fun working the oak here also, thinking I should have made a 1/6th scale adze

[crueby]

My first reaction to those last two pictures was 'hey, he stole my sailboat stem!'   

One thing that was done on some traditional boats was to build up inside where the planking goes by adding filler pieces, like the two shown behind the stem here:

here they are installed and faired in:

then the shallow notch is cut in to take the ends of the planks. This method gives a winder landing for the plank ends and screws without having to cut such a steep notch in the original stem


You are doing a great job - this summer you need to start on the full size launch hull!

[tghs]

I'm fortunate that there is a facebook page for the restored 40ft USS New Jersey steam launch, it has photos of the entire restoration.. I'm also in contact with the master that did most of the engineering work on the boat,, he blessed me today with a period drawing that shows the prop to shaft mounting used, tapered shaft with keyway, conical nut matching prop hub curves..

[crueby]

Awesome. Can't beat direct info on the real thing!

[Charles Lamont]

Impressive draughtsmanship / tracing, especially the curves of the projected impeller blades, where you can hardly see any joins.