Author Topic: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy  (Read 19297 times)

Offline tangler

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #90 on: April 02, 2021, 07:47:46 PM »
Lots of little bits for the cam gear now



The clevis was troublesome, mostly to do with inadequate holding and deflection



The one on the right was made using the following method:  A length of slightly oversize square mild steel was held in the four jaw self centring chuck and turned down to the required diameter



The job was then transferred, still in the chuck, to the dividing head on the mill and the slot was first started with a drill



Then the holes were joined up with an end mill slightly smaller than the required slot, opened out to the correct width and rotated 90 degrees to drill the hole.  Then returned to the lathe to drill and tap before parting off to length



Using the step method in the mill to round off the ends has not been working well for me in these small sizes so I have reverted to using filing buttons.  I made a couple of collars with grub (set) screws in to keep the collars in place on a drill shank of the appropriate size.  A needle file fits between the collars



And here it is in action on the Governor catch lever - another milling job







The cam shaft is another length of square bar turned in the lathe before milling



I paused to make myself a stop for the vice -  modelled on a design I saw on a Stefan Gotteswinter video



I knocked off the corners at 45 degrees.  Jerry called for these to be radiused to 1/16" but I'm happy with the angles



Not much left to do now!





« Last Edit: April 02, 2021, 07:53:51 PM by tangler »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #91 on: April 02, 2021, 09:48:13 PM »
You're doing some mighty fine work there Tangler.---I look in to check once or twice a day.---Brian

Offline Don1966

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #92 on: April 02, 2021, 09:55:52 PM »
Still with you Rod ......  :ThumbsUp:



 :cheers:
Don

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #93 on: April 02, 2021, 11:48:16 PM »
Nice progress!

Dave

Online Kim

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #94 on: April 03, 2021, 05:55:11 AM »
Your clevis came out looking great!  Amazing what you can learn with a few practice runs, isn't it?  :)

Kim

Offline Roger B

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #95 on: April 04, 2021, 11:38:12 AM »
Nicely done  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I am a fan of filling buttons, especially for small sizes.
Best regards

Roger

Offline tangler

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #96 on: April 07, 2021, 01:13:12 PM »
Thanks for the comments guys.  I do assume that the forum is hanging on my every word and awaiting the next installment with baited breath  ;)

The mixer (although I tend to think of it as the carb).  Jerry used a PM Research elbow casting.  Not easily available in the UK so first thing is to fabricate an elbow from 3/8" diam. brass.  I milled a recess into a bar with a 3/8" endmill to slightly less than half depth.  The picture is actually of a test run on a bar end



Then another length of 3/8" brass was reduced to 5 thou less than the diameter and slotted into the recess, fluxed and a ring of silver (hard) solder placed around the upright



Then warmed up until the solder flowed



I'd put centres into both of the components before assembly as an aid to setting up in the small 4 jaw chuck for drilling the holes to match up at the corner (sorry about the focus  :-[ )



After some careful filing we have an elbow



The body of the carb is made from 1/2" hex brass.  After facing in the lathe I transferred the chuck to the dividing head in the lathe and lined up one side of the hex with a set square



After rotating to bring a face to the horizontal I drilled and reamed 1/8" for the spray bar



The spray bar is held in place by a set screw so I had to mill a starting flat but the ER25 collet was to big to bring the endmill close enough to the job so I resorted to using an ER11 collet holder with a 1/2" shank held in the ER25 collet



Then drilled and tapped



After returning the chuck to the lathe the through hole was drilled and a bit of hand turning finished off the end



Here's the finished body soft soldered with solder paint to the elbow (you'll notice that the elbow is very nearly a right angle!)



The spray bar needs to have some scary small holes in it.  I very rarely use the larger drive pulley on my lathe but I went for the highest speed I can get of 2500 rpm.  It all went very well.  The tailstock feed on a Myford Super 7 is a 3 start square thread which is quite quick to advance and retard when pecking a hole.



The jet is #76 (0.5mm).  Transferred to the mill, I had to put a centre dimple first before drilling using the sliding small chuck holder at the mill maximum speed which is also 2500rpm



The finished (well I guess I will polish it) spray bar



The needle was made from an 8BA screw



Don't let anyone tell you that you can't take fine cuts with carbide.  This is a CCGT tip with a 0.2mm radius





The needle is finished off with a knurled brass knob, tapped and loctited in place.  My knurling tool lives in the Gibraltar tool post - it's too big to fit into a QC holder but is quick to exchange with the top (compound) slide.



The finished mixer



Lets hope it works






« Last Edit: April 07, 2021, 01:16:20 PM by tangler »

Online Kim

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #97 on: April 07, 2021, 06:40:00 PM »
The mixer (although I tend to think of it as the carb).
Nice step-by-step on your mixer.   :popcorn: :popcorn:

So what's the difference between a mixer and a carburetor?  I thought that's what a carburetor was; the thing that mixes the gas with air so it can combust?  But I'm not really an IC guy, so I may just need to be educated.

Kim

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #98 on: April 07, 2021, 06:49:30 PM »
A mixer is a simple carburetor with no throttle. It basically runs "wide open" all the time. The rpm of the engine is controlled by the hit and miss function of the engine.

Online Kim

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #99 on: April 07, 2021, 06:52:34 PM »
Ah... that makes sense.  :)

Thanks for the clear explanation, Brian.
Kim

Offline propforward

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #100 on: April 07, 2021, 07:19:51 PM »
Marvellous - thanks for the detailed explanation on your process Tangler. Very informative!
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Offline tangler

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #101 on: April 08, 2021, 06:18:32 PM »
Thanks for the encouragement chaps.

The Exhaust Valve Push Guides are a pair of straps that locate and guide the push rod on the side of the engine.  They end up 0.6" long by 0.25" wide.  You may have noticed that I am trying to use as much of my existing stock as possible so a few minor alterations of non critical dimensions have been made here and there.  In this case I have some 1/2" square brass and I reckoned that making the pair on the same piece and slitting them with a 20thou saw is close enough.

First thing was to square up the block to length and then find the centres in X and Y using an edge finder and the 1/2 function on the DRO



I used a 6mm endmill for the slot and then opened it out on either side for a sliding fit for the push rod



The recesses for the screws were then milled with a 4mm tool.  By locating from the centre I could use the same numbers to locate the slots, either + or minus from the origin.  I also spotted the holes but did not drill because of the parallels supporting the job.  The push rod was used to stop the guides being crushed by the vice.



I drilled the holes using the Pillar Tool and then used the guides as a jig to drill and then tap 8 BA into an oddment of steel as a way of holding the guides for splitting



Back in the mill I knocked the corners off and after a bit of filing here they are



Cheers,
Rod


Offline tangler

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #102 on: April 18, 2021, 06:54:41 PM »
Lots of little odds and ends to finish off.  The metric gears I cut are slightly larger than to drawing and need fitting.  The shaft through the larger gear has a point on the end to mark the centre.  A larger gear means the dimensions of the governor catch lever need altering - something I forgot so had to remake this  :-[



The fiddling around with little items triggered me into making a couple of things that have been on the to do list for 3 decades

An instrument makers vice



And a finger plate



The new lever clears the gear



The ignition system was bought as a complete unit from China - this is sold as a replacement system for one of the ready made engines that are all over the internet at the moment



I need to work out how and where to mount the Hall sensor

Rod

Online Kim

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #103 on: April 18, 2021, 10:30:04 PM »
Cute little clamp and finger vise you made!

And the ignition came with those cute little sparkplug boots too?  That's pretty nice!
Kim

Offline tangler

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Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
« Reply #104 on: May 05, 2021, 11:20:14 PM »
A trial assembly shows that every thing seems to fit together



A few more bits and bobs need making.  The crankshaft oilers need a 1/4" AF hex so I started that in hex er25 collet block



Then transferred to a collet in the lathe to cut the thread (M5) and the projection into the bearing (which stops it rotating)



Then turned around and screwed into the female M5 fixture to cut the outline and drill 1/4 diameter oil cup before finishing with the hand graver



The cylinder oiler was straight forward turning, dimensions modified to suite the acrylic tube I have.  The ratchet spring is both aesthetically and physically inadequate and needs re-making



I decided that the hold down bolts for the frame would be better with bosses so counter-bored prior to gluing in inserts with JB weld



Similarly for the crankshaft oilers.  The half function on the DRO is so useful for finding centres



The bosses can be seen in this picture where I was testing out the ignition system - gives a nice spark as I waft the rare earth magnet (on the end of the Allen key) across the sensor



Stay well (second Covid jab tomorrow  :) )

Rod









 

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