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Atlas 7B shaper restoration
pgp001:
Nice find, I am sure you will not be disappointed when it is finished.
I went through the same exercise with mine a while ago, just be warned that finding an original vice will be a challenge.
Phil
vdubjunkie:
That is a beauty. I like how you did not paint the pot metal covers. I may ask advice on how you finished those out. I'm considering also not painting the aluminum belt guards, but we'll just have to see.
I've seen plenty of discussion on paint, and it seems the consensus on forums is alkyd enamel. However, when I talked with somebody at Sherwin Williams, he has pretty much talked me into a standard oil base enamel. The size of container necessary, and overall cost to get into alkyd enamel was a bit off the charts.
What did you choose for paint? I can see that you do actually use your machine.
Oh, also, I've already seen what an insane price an original vice brings. I'm not concerned about that. I'm willing to simply use the one I purchased for use on my Burke milling machine.
vdubjunkie:
Alright friends, I've uploaded a video to youtube for your entertainment. I clearly didn't plan well, as it is not 16x9, but this was the day I brought home the shaper. The pictures I had received were not great, so there was some mystery. Also, if you can get through the video, you'll learn that I had a little different idea about the shaper when I first got it home.
Constructive criticism is welcome. I've got other videos too, but they probably are all just as terrible as this one. I'd like to put together a decent video of the assembly at least.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7WJhFz4-T0
vdubjunkie:
Along the way, I decided I would chase all the threads, and fortunately the old machine used all standard sizes, so I already had taps and dies the correct size. Later I'll realize that citristrip found its way into those clean threads, and I'll have to redo some of the work, but I think I might do it the same way again.
At this point, I'm really just dipping my toes in the water, and I wanted to see how well the badges would clean up. Not too bad, actually!
There's still some grime around the "rivets" there, but it's all coming off, so I'll finish the work later. At least I can see how good it can look.
Most of the threads were in very good condition like the ones you see here. The die was almost more of a pre-degreaser preparation step. Look at all the crud jammed up in it.
I tend to obsess a bit. Those who know me can get off the floor now at the understatement just made. See how you can tell that the knee runner only ever used the one side of the base? If you look at the operation of the machine, the knee slides from side to side as the ram cuts progress. I've got a friend with a shop, and you see this same sort of thing there. People who didn't buy the machine don't tend to worry about keeping things clean. While I'm using this machine, it won't be so obvious if I don't really use the left side of the base!
Here, you get a view of some of the most challenging disassembly I experienced with this machine. That large gear is the crank gear, and it connects through to the S7-58 shaft, and hub assembly. First, the 6 enormous phillips screws holding plates to the crank gear are larger than the largest size driver I could find. If memory serves, I believe it was a #4. However, with patience, a rigid setup, and care, I was able to get them loose without bunging them up!
However, that wasn't all. I also found challenge with removing the S7-83A shaft you see holding the much smaller gear in that picture. Once I got the crank gear and the shaft removed, I struggled mightily with figuring out how to get the S7-58 shaft out of the hub, and removing the hub from the side of the frame. Ultimately, it took a great deal of force, and I could find no way of pressing it through, so I had to rely on impact. The result of this is that the small section of thread which you do not see from the outside of the machine is bent. I still haven't decided whether I'll be able to heat, and straighten the existing part, or if I'll have to make a new one.
Here is a better look at the phillips screws. Not only are they huge, but they were peened in place too. With those plates out of the way, I feel I'll get this gear removed soon.
Here you can see me removing the block and pin from the crank gear assembly. The position of this pin relative to the center of the crank gear is what determines the "throw" of the ram, or how far it will travel with each stroke. Early into this process, it struck me just how much more complex of a machine a shaper is than a lathe.
Four cap head screws later, and I'll be able to get this crank gear out of here. You can see the bronze "nut" with the cylindrical protrusion flopped over. The traveling of this "nut" on those threads is what slides the block and pin further from, or closer to the center of the crank gear, thus adjusting the throw of the ram.
There, the gear is removed, and I'm left with the S7-13A hub with bearing cone, and S7-58 shaft. It should be a simple matter of removing that little helical gear from the end of the shaft, and everything will just cooperate, right?!
Absolutely not! Here is where I employed every four letter word I have ever practiced over my considerable years of experience, and also some mechanical efforts. Nothing was working. It took me quite a while, some penetrating oil, and a whole lot of visual inspection, and internet research before I started getting a bit heavy handed with the process.
One thing is that these little helical gears (of which there are several on the machine) do not like being removed from their shafts. However, this one was especially stubborn. Here is where I also learned how unreasonable people can get when others ask online about how to disassemble even a particular aspect of these machines. From my world, when learning Linux, it was akin to "RTFM!!" Since there are exploded diagrams out there, you should apparently never ask anybody how to disassemble any part of the machine. Well, the exploded diagram doesn't tell everything.
Here is that stubborn little shaft, and you can see some varnish? on it. It was good and stuck. If you look closely, you'll also notice that short section of threads at the top are bent. I don't think the part would be difficult to turn, but threads are still a bit of a challenge for me. I don't have very many of my change gears, and I tend to have all the wrong sized taps and dies most of the time. These are very fine threads. We'll see!
If memory serves, I believe it took me quite a while to decide this "collar" is actually threaded. I think it may have been somewhat challenging. However, relatively speaking, no biggie at this point in the game!
Oh happy day! :cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel:
After removing the collar and gear in the previous picture, the hub assembly was able to be gently persuaded to leave its home!
As usual, I took the time to see that all the threads were going to be in good shape when assembly day came later on. Other than a few missing screws, and a couple of screws broken off in the machine, I was very fortunate with all the screws being in relatively good shape.
Here we have the flange assembly finally being removed from the frame. This relatively short period of time was so transformative to my mindset about the project. I had really been struggling a while there.
This picture also presents a wonderful opportunity to illustrate another issue with the machine. It came with no switch, switch cover, nor wiring. I'll have to come up with that stuff myself. I believe I can get a decent home made switch cover, and surely I can find an appropriate looking, and sized switch. Wiring is no big deal. That may even actually be fun!
b.lindsey:
Well this phase of the restoration is certainly moving along rapidly!! Thanks for posting the progress and all the pictures.
Bill
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