Author Topic: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine  (Read 11158 times)

Offline RayW

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2021, 10:14:07 PM »
Hi Mike,
Your questions made me have a closer look at my engine and back at the plans to remind me how I did everything. Being my first engine, I stuck pretty closely to the plans, but I see no problem with the changes you are proposing. By attaching the gear to the flywheel boss with a locking screw, rather than Loctiting them together as per the plans, you would be able to adjust the valve timing easily. The setup as per the plans gives no facility to do so once the engine is assembled.

Quite why the plans specify two roll pins, i am not sure. Seems a bit of a belt and braces job to me. I would have thought that one was more than adequate on an engine of this size.

As I mentioned, my engine uses standard car ignition points and a condenser and I have never used Hall type sensors, so that is one thing I can't advise you on, but the ability to vary ignition timing while the engine is running would be useful if you can arrange it.

Hope that is some help


Ray

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2021, 11:08:56 PM »
Coming along very nicely  :ThumbsUp:


Be safe and have a great day,
Thomas

Offline mikehinz

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #17 on: April 03, 2021, 01:43:59 AM »
First, let me thank everyone that's watching this build log!  Also any and all feedback and suggestions are welcome! 

Today, I finished up the piston.  I'd been working on it since yesterday but needed to make a run to find a few small parts and a bit of material so I ended up finishing it up today. 

I started with a piece of 1.0" OD AL round stock and held in a 1" collet and then turned the lower end of it down to .873" as per the print.  Here is sitting on the print and you can see I turned the .873" diameter a little longer than the 1" called out on the print.



Then I took the collet out of the lathe and installed it into a 4 sided collet block and drilled and reamed for the wrist pin. 



Then I turned the collet block 90 degrees and found the end again and drilled the oil tube hole just deep enough so that it will intersect the slot to be milled later.  Using the collet block should assure the features are at 90 degrees to each other.



Then I stood the collet block up on end and swept the block vertically to make sure it's straight with the spindle. 



Then I centered the part under the spindle with a DTI.  That's an Amazon clone of a Interapid type indicator.  I bought it just to see how I like vs a standard Mitutoyo DTI.  I do like it and one of this days I might purchase an actual interapid DTI. 



Then I created the .25" deep recess with a .75" 2 flute end mill, just plunging straight in by raising the table slowly. 



To create the 3/8" slot, I moved the table over and moved down with the quill to .750" and then set the quill stop so I can repeatedly plunge to that depth without overshooting.



Creating the slot with a 3/8" 4 flute EM.  You can also see the Unist mql nozzle in the pix which is very useful to clean out the chips and keep the part and cutter lubricated and cool.  My thinking about using the collet block for holding the part is that this method should give me the best chance of making sure everything is in the proper plane. 



Drilling and tapping for the 4-40 set screws that will be used to retain the wrist pin.



Then back to the lathe to part off the piston from the spigot that was used for work holding up to this point.



Then I changed the collet to 7/8" and trimmed the top to get the proper OLA and then used the grooving tool to form the o-ring groove.  I intend to use a -018 viton o-ring with a very modest amount of wall pressure.  The groove width is .085" and the groove diameter is .740" which should give a squeeze of about .005" on the cylinder wall.  That's a lot less than the standard design parameters call for but I followed the guidance of Bob Nawa who authored a very good paper back in 2013 describing this method of sizing o-ring grooves for low rpm engines.  I guess the proof of this method will be if the engine runs or not!!



Next is the wrist pin.  I cut off a bit of 3/16" drill rod and faced each end to length.  Then I drilled thru as per the print.  I was a bit confused as to why this hole exists, but I figure the designer knows way better than me!



Then over to the mill using a very sketchy setup to mill the 2 flats for the set screw landing area. 



And a pix of the piston and wrist pin together.  It actually fit!



Last is the oil tube, a VERY small item!  I found some 3/32" brass tubing at a local hardware store, so I hacksawed a bit of it off and used a collet in the lathe to trim the tube to length.



Finished!  A US dime coin for size comparison.  I'm gonna have to get an Optivisor one of these days.  That's about the size limit for my eyes!  I did assemble it using a very small drop of Loctite 638 so I doubt if it will come apart. 



So one more part completed! 

I'm going to help my brother on a house he's remodeling so I won't get back into my shop until Sunday at the earliest. 

Enjoy!

Mike
MIke
Wichita, KS, USA

Online Kim

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #18 on: April 03, 2021, 02:33:19 AM »
Great write-up on your pistons, Mike!
Thanks!
Kim

Offline propforward

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #19 on: April 03, 2021, 02:39:24 AM »
That piston is an intricate part - thanks for taking the time to post your detailed set up pictures and approach, these are very useful and greatly appreciated!
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Offline mikehinz

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #20 on: April 10, 2021, 02:30:56 PM »
Today, I'll go over how I made the connecting rod.  This was new to me as I've had only a bit of experience with a rotary table and needed to figure out exactly how to perform all the steps necessary.  I spent quite a big of time in CAD laying it all out and figuring our how I would need to move the mill table and RT to get all the features called out.

First, some easy bits, The bushing for the big and little ends of the con rod.  Material is SAE 660 bearing bronze. 

Turning down the OD.



Drilling the ID.  I later reamed the ID, but didn't take a pix.



The finishing bushings on the print.



After generating a drawing in CAD, I squared up a piece of .313" thick AL and then drilled and reaming the big end and little end.  Next I drilled 1/4" at the center of the 4 radii that form the transitions from the side of the rod to the end.  Can anyone spot the screw up on this part?



Then I made a couple of alignment pins for my RT.  That's a 6" Vertex.  The pins are .75" and are a close fit in the center of the RT and then the top is either .25" or .375" or the un-bushed rod ends. 



After centering the RT under the spindle, I placed the stock on the RT and moved over in X exactly the distance between the con rod center holes.  Then I fitting a 1/4" piece of brass in the mill and moved the stock side to side until it passed thru the small end hole.  This process got the rod exactly inline with the mill's X axis with the RT set to zero degrees rotation.  The clamps were then tightened down on the stock.  There's some waste material under the stock also.



Then I rotated the RT 1' 30" on each side of zero, locked Y and moved the mill table only in X to form the sides of the rod.   In the pix is the state of the rod after each side was milled.  Clamps were repositioned for each side.



Next I did the ends.  This involved going back to zero on the mill table and the RT.  Then moving the mill table in X to the radius of the feature plus 1/2 the cutter diameter.  I used a 1/4" carbide end mill for this and I climb cut the last pass.



The con rod after milling the ends.  Shown also is the waste material after the cuts were finished.  I didn't take any pix, but I clamped the rod on my small tooing pallet and milled the sides of the rod down .031" as per the print.  This was pretty easy as I just clamped each end, milled the side and flipped it over and repeated. 



I spend a just a bit of time filing and sanding the rod to get rid of the roughest bits and then pressed the bushings in place with my bench vise.  I used some Loctite 603 on the bushing prior to pressing them in place. 



Back in the mill vise to drill the oil hole in the small end.



The rod with the wrist pin installed.



And the final pix showing the con rod installed with the piston and wrist pin.  By some miracle it all fits and even rotates! 



I must say, I learned a lot making this connecting rod.  I did make 3 mistakes, but they were fairly minor and just affected the appearance, not the functionality, so I'm living with them.  One thing that became crystal clear to me is that it's a must to have a step by step process to follow and to get all the necessary dimensions completely clearly shown on the drawing that you're trying to follow.  I'm hopeful that I can do better on the next one!

Enjoy!

Mike

MIke
Wichita, KS, USA

Offline crueby

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #21 on: April 10, 2021, 03:01:37 PM »
Great sequence, well done!  The rotary table is a very handy tool, once you figure out ways and the order  to use it.

 :popcorn:

Offline Roger B

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #22 on: April 10, 2021, 03:33:36 PM »
I'm still following and enjoying  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Best regards

Roger

Online Kim

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #23 on: April 10, 2021, 05:44:11 PM »
Nice process on your connecting rods, Mike!  :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim

Offline mikehinz

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #24 on: April 12, 2021, 06:34:26 PM »
First, thanks to all that are watching this build.  I really appreciate and would love any feedback or suggestions for improvement for my methods.

So, I finished up the crankshaft over the last couple of days and I'll show the process in this post. 

Here's the start.  I sawed off and cleaned up the ends of a piece of 5/16" drill rod and had a small chuck of 1215 material left over from an earlier project.



I turned down the OD of the stock to 1.82" and drilled and reamed the center hole 5/16", the diameter of the drill rod.  This will become the crank throw and I'm not following the original print at this point, but instead 'borrowed' Brian Rupnow's throw configuration that add a bit of counterweight to the part.



After parting the to-be throw off in the lathe, I moved over to the mill and cleaned up the surface that had been parted and drilled and reamed the crank pin hole.  Again I deviated from the original print and made this 5/16".  It's drilled .625" from the center hole as per the original print.  I did this by offsetting in X via the DRO.



Here's the throw blank on the print, showing the 2 drilled and reamed holes and I also scratched a centerline on the throw just for reference.  I wasn't sure I'd use it but it ended up being a handy reference for the steps to come.



I also quickly made a .031" thick washer from bearing bronze as the throw is flat as I didn't turn the 1/2" diameter feature on the throw. I''m parting off the washer here, after turning the OD and drilling the ID.



The bronze washer shown against the to-be throw, just checking it for size.



I struggled for some time on exactly how to create the angular feature to make the Brian Rupnow style throw but finally wrapped my head around a method and made a drawing with the required dimensions.  My hang up seemed to be the offset required from the center hole when the part is rotated.  Suddenly I got the necessary inspiration and figure out that what I needed was simply the distance from the center of the center hole to each side of the angle.  And I needed to rotate about the center hole.  So first I made an alignment pin for my rotary table, that fit the RT and was 5/16" above the table which then centered the throw on the RT.  Shown in the alignment pin installed in the Vertex RT.



I put some waste stock under the throw and after carefully centering the RT under the spindle and setting the RT to zero degrees rotation, and zeroing the DRO, I moved in Y exactly .625" and using a piece of 5/16" brass rod, I rotated the throw until the brass rod slipped thru the hole.  This should align the center hole and the pin hole exactly in the Y axis.  Then I secured the clamps and locked the X mill table axis and returned the mill to 0/0.



Then I rotated the RT 20 degrees and moved in X .499" and locked the X axis and the RT.  Then I started taking passes to cut the throw as indicated using only Y.



I repeated the same operation for the other side, except rotating the RT 20 degrees the opposite way and reclamping the part to avoid colliding with the clamps.  Shown is just after both sides of the throw were finished.



The part shown against the print where you can see the critical .499" dimension that's the key to setting up the RT and mill to get the cut done as called out on the print.



I next made the crank pin.  I didn't show any of those operations, just the completed part.  This was mostly straightforward, although drilling the small oil hole made me pucker up a bit.  I used a collet block to hold the part in the mill vise, found the center and edge and gently drilled the hole.  You can see it, but it but the part is drilled and tapped 8-32 for the grease cup.



I"m going to borrow another of Brian Rupnow's suggestions, which is to add a starter hub to the end of the crankshaft.  To that end, I milled a 1/8" keyway, 1" in length in the end of the shaft.  Depth was .062" and I took it quite easy with the small EM, taking only about .015" depth per pass.  I used a 2 flute HSS EM spinning fast. 



And the shaft completed laid on top of the print.



Well, there was nothing left but to get to the part of the operation that I was dreading, silver brazing everything together.  The reason I was nervous was that I wasn't super confident that the pin and shaft would be parallel with each other and perpendicular to the throw due to the short amount of engagement.  I do know how to silver braze so I wasn't worried about that, just the process to get everything in the correct place.  This is the silver braze and flux that I use.  It's commonly available at the local welding supply houses here in Wichita, KS.



So, the process I decided on was to braze the shaft in place first.  I ended up using a center punch to put 4 tiny dimples around the shaft where it fits in the throw.  I did this since I wanted it to have some resistance to coming out of place while I was handling it.  I generously applied flux to the shaft and hole in the throw and pressed the parts together using my bench vise.  I applied heat with an oxy/acetylene rig setup with a small brazing tip.  This pix show the part after brazing and I did manage to apply a bit too my braze material as is my usual and terrible habit!



This is the backside of the part showing that the braze material wicked thru the shaft/throw interface very well, so the joint should be good, IMO.



I put the assembly in the lathe with a collet setup and lightly skimmed the face of the throw, both to clean up the excess brazing material but also make sure that the face of the throw as perpendicular to the shaft.  My theory being that when I press the pin in, it wil be in the correct alignment with the shaft and the throw, strong emphasis on 'theory'.



I didn't show the brazing operation, but I pressed the pin into place after applying flux and then heating and applying the silver braze as I did on the shaft.  Shown in the pix is cleaning up the backside of the throw after brazing the pin into place.



A closeup of the backside of the throw, shaft, nad pin.



And of the front side of the crankshaft assembly.



Since I was terrified that everything wouldn't be aligned well enough to rotate, I quickly assembled the parts I've made to date on the frame and base and by some miracle, they all went together and they actually rotate!!



So, I'm calling the crankshaft a success! 

Next I'll move to the flywheel to get it finished off so that i can fit it and the cam drive gear to the overall assembly.

Again I appreciate everyone that's watching this project and sincerely do appreciate comments and suggestions for improvements!

Enjoy!



MIke
Wichita, KS, USA

Offline propforward

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2021, 06:57:11 PM »
Very nice work - great use of the rotary table to make the crank web - I like that a lot. Came out really well, too.

Also - facing on the reverse (left) side. Smart! It's easy to forget / miss that kind of approach, because so much is done from the "right" side of the part normally.
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Offline mikehinz

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #26 on: April 12, 2021, 08:16:37 PM »
..................use of the rotary table to make the crank web ...............

I was wondering if there way another way to make the crank web in any easier way, perhaps without the rotary table??  I didn't manage to think of a way to do that, but I'm sure there is. 

Thanks for taking a look and certainly appreciate the comments!

Mike
MIke
Wichita, KS, USA

Offline propforward

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #27 on: April 12, 2021, 08:40:35 PM »
I can think of other approaches, but they all seem more complex. Pretty easy to true the part up in the rotary and then rotate the correct angle.

If you didn't have access to such a fixture, then I suppose you could probably do it using a sine bar type approach, or set up using gauge pins to get the shafts at the right angle, and end mill the web.

By the way - nice job on your brazing. Looks like nice, precise work.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 10:49:42 PM by propforward »
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Online Kim

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #28 on: April 13, 2021, 02:20:34 AM »
That crank looks great, Mike!

Yeah, I hear people worrying about silver soldering their built-up crank together because the heat might warp the crank.  Looks like you did it successfully without warping.

Just a quick question - what's the difference between Brazing and Silver-soldering?  Are they the same?

Thanks!
Kim

Offline propforward

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Re: Webster I/C Engine - Mike's 5th Engine
« Reply #29 on: April 13, 2021, 02:24:58 AM »
Basically the same. Silver solder is just a particular alloy - one of the lower melting point braze alloys. I’m no expert, but I don’t think there is really any difference.

Edit: I just read that silver soldering involves drawing the alloy into the joint by capillary action, whereas braze involves melting the alloy in situ. Otherwise very similar techniques. Both involve “wetting” the parent metal, and bonding to it rather than melting it.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2021, 02:29:44 AM by propforward »
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

 

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