Junkers CLM

[Roger B]

The new tappet was centred then drilled and reamed 2mm for the roller shaft. I then cut the slot for the roller with a 2mm slitting saw, lowered the head 0.25mm and cut the guide slot with a 1.5mm saw. This seemed to work and the roller is now in the correct orientation.

Next I silver soldered a couple 8mm pipe stubs into some flanges I had made previously for the diesel, cut a pair of gaskets and pressure tested the water jacket. It dropped fairly quickly from 2 bar air pressure to 1 bar and then more slowly. It is hard to tell where the leakage is, possibly into the centre section where the injector fits. As the cooling water will not be pressurised it will probably be ok but I will take it apart for a check anyway.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIc-IOOdL9I" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIc-IOOdL9I</a>

[Roger B]

And one more

[uuu]

...

Ron, exactly so. I think I will have to start a new thread for final assembly and test, this one is getting unwieldy.
...

Better to keep the whole story in one place, I think.  There's another forum where I'm following a build thread that has 823 pages, so far - over 16,000 posts.  It's a tale of triumph, tragedy and dogged persistence.

Wilf

[Roger B]

Thank you Wilf, I will bear that in mind 

Next I continued working on the oil pressure relief valve. The guide for the ball and spring is made from a modified Regner M5 x 0.5 union. One end was drilled out to 3.1 mm for the ball and spring and then turned to the correct length. The spanner flats in the middle were shortened as was the union nut. Space around the governor is limited.

When I tested the engine compression with the electric drill I scored the crankshaft extension so I decided to make a new one. Experience with the diesel showed that often something has to give so I used the starting dog as a sort of mechanical fuse. The flat for the grubscrews and the 2mm keyway were cut using the Proxxon mill.

[Roger B]

The exhaust pipe flange came next, cut from a piece of 3mm thick brass. I now need to find a good source of 12 mm copper pipe and end feed fittings to finish this.

The oil pressure relief pipe is another tortuous piece of 3mm copper pipe which needs to fit round the governor and spray onto the helical gears. The oil mist from this should then lubricate the injection pump drive components and the governor.

I then assembled the injection pump drive to check the clearances and operation. A temporary spring simulated the injection pump load.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l02y_k7TuNQ" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l02y_k7TuNQ</a>

[Admiral_dk]

When I tested the engine compression with the electric drill I scored the crankshaft extension so I decided to make a new one. Experience with the diesel showed that often something has to give so I used the starting dog as a sort of mechanical fuse.

As a kid I really wanted an Electric starter for my Diesels (CI) and much later in Life I stumbled across People who really knew about those and they ALL agree that you Never use an Electric Starter on Model CI Engines (Yours are bigger and more solid) 

Why - well if you happen to flood the Engine - you usually end up with a Bend Con-Rod or worse .... simply because of a Hydro-Lock, due to the extreme Compression        

So your 'Fuses' are actually Lifesavers Roger 

Great to see progress 

Per