Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 382239 times)

Offline Prowler901

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4140 on: July 08, 2024, 12:51:24 AM »
Outstanding progress, Kim!  Stay cool out there.

Todd

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4141 on: July 08, 2024, 05:27:02 AM »
Thanks Todd!  :cheers:

Yeah, it's supposed to be even hotter the next few days and starting to get below 100F during the last par of the week.  That's still too hot!  :Mad:

Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4142 on: July 11, 2024, 09:38:38 PM »
Chapter 33.4 – Coupling Joints

This is the first day in a while it’s been cool enough to go out to the shop.  So I did a short session today and got the coupling joints done.  These are the joints that will connect with the water feedlines from the tender.

They were quite simple, so no in progress pics.  Here they are completed though:


Note that they are NOT identical.  They have slightly different sized business ends for mating with the two different sized lines that come from the tender.  The trick will be to get the right one on the right place on the engine when I assemble it!  :insane:

Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4143 on: July 12, 2024, 03:14:50 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Nice looking fittings Kim! re the ID issue at assembly - any way you could do one of the old part ID tricks like matching punch marks on one of the two fittings and their pipe (or on a part nearby where the brass one goes?) On multiple fittings where things need to be in the right place I've made small but visible grooves in the hex section of the part in the lathe while machining the turned features. Then made a punch mark matching the number of grooves on the fitting, on a nearby part. Just food for thought.

PS if Chris's shop elves contact you and suggest using multiple colours of nail polish is great for fittings ID, don't agree to accept pre-order samples. They're trying piecing out the pipe fittings from their Mike Rowe  brewery that Chris shut down and dismantled - and later you get a big bill from Elf Bay...  :Lol:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4144 on: July 12, 2024, 05:28:25 AM »
Thanks for the suggestion, Jeff!  I've marked many parts like that for this build, though haven't marked these yet... The difference is obvious - if I remember to check!  But you know how that goes!

And yes, I'll keep a skeptical eye out for the suggestions coming from Chris's shop elves.  You can never be too careful!  They're getting pretty good at those fishing scams too.  I wonder if one of the elves is related to a rich Nigerian Prince elf?  :Lol:

Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4145 on: July 12, 2024, 11:09:20 PM »
Today I was contemplating how to go about making the brackets, which are up next.  These will hold the water tubing to the frame.

I must think about things a lot more than other people, or possibly, (likely?) I just think very slowly, because that was most of what I did out in the shop today. I thought.  In my defense, however, I did find an anomaly in Kozo’s drawings.

Remember those coupling joints that I've been talking about in the last few posts, that I'd solder them in the wrong place?  Turns out that the side to solder SHOULD be different!

Here’s the diagram that shows the size of copper pipe to be used for the right side (axle water feed pump loop) and the left side (Tender hand pump).  It’s kinda hard to tell what’s what in this diagram since it’s shown from the right side, but it shows the left side pipe work also, as if you’re looking through the boiler.  I highlighted the right side water pipe in yellow, and the left side water pipe in orange. (All the non-highlighted pipe is on the left too – part of the axle water pump loop – but isn’t really relevant to this discussion.)  The orange pipe (left side) is 3/16” OD. The yellow pipe (right side) is 5/32” OD.  And at the very left side of the drawing you can see where each water pipe ends in their respective coupler joint (parts #10 and #11)


However, on the drawing for the coupler joints it shows both of them as having 3/32” receiving end for the copper pipe to be soldered into.  Clearly, that won’t work!  Looks to me like coupling joint #11 should have a 3/16” receiving hole, as I marked in red.


So, I modified that coupling joint to have a 3/16” hole to match the copper pipe that will be fitted in it.

Made sense to me anyway. :)
Kim
« Last Edit: July 13, 2024, 05:31:35 AM by Kim »

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4146 on: July 13, 2024, 03:16:56 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: I guess the famous draughtsman I.N. Phallible must have been helping Kozo with those sheets that day.... :facepalm:  :Lol:

Glad you caught the errors early.
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4147 on: July 13, 2024, 04:01:55 AM »
Good catch and recovery! 

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4148 on: July 13, 2024, 05:31:59 AM »
Thanks Jeff and Chris :)

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4149 on: July 13, 2024, 08:58:11 PM »
Chapter 33.5 – Brackets

The brackets were made from 3/8” square 12L14.  I cut two little pieces of stock, milled them to thickness and length, then milled the basic bracket shape in each one.


Next, I drilled and countersunk the mounting hole.


Turning the part on edge, I drilled the through hole for the copper tube.  While they will end up with different sized tube holes, I started by making them both 5/32”.


Leaving the holes the same size allowed me to more easily round the bottom of the brackets on my belt sander since I only needed one 5/32” hole in the jig (rather than a 3/16” one too).


Finally, I drilled larger hole to 3/16”.  And the brackets are done:


Kim

 

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