Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 342497 times)

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3870 on: March 29, 2024, 09:43:20 PM »
The next part for the valve is the stem.  This was made from 3/16Ē 303 stainless steel rod.  I turned the 30o tapered point first.  Actually, I did that twice.  Once with the compound set at 30o, then the second time with it set at 15o to provide an included angle of 30o, which is correct!  :embarassed:
Next, I turned the stepped diameters and threaded a portion of the stem 6-32.


Finally, I used the grooving tool to take the top end down to 3/32Ē to fit into the valve wheel made yesterday, then parted it off.


Here are the two parts for the blower valve stem.  I did do a little more clean-up work on the hand wheel.  I think it looks better. Not ideal, but better than yesterday!


Hereís what it looks like after silver soldering the parts together.  Not too bad!


Next up will be the valve body.
Kim

Offline tzkelley

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3871 on: March 29, 2024, 11:32:28 PM »
Looks great, Kim!

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3872 on: March 30, 2024, 03:19:20 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3873 on: March 30, 2024, 05:01:35 AM »
Thanks Doug and Jeff!  :cheers:
Kim

Offline wagnmkr

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3874 on: March 30, 2024, 11:37:57 AM »
Very nice hand wheel Kim. The detail you are putting into this project is great!

 :cheers:   Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3875 on: March 30, 2024, 04:47:42 PM »
Thank you, Tom  ^-^

Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3876 on: March 30, 2024, 10:11:30 PM »
Continuing on with the parts for the blower valve, I made the blower valve body and a steam pass-through plug.  These were both made from 5/16Ē hex bar stock.

The plug was just like other plugs, so no pics there.  The blower valve body is a lot like those pass-through plugs, but just enough different that I took a few detail pics of that part being made.

It begins as a very standard plug, but the center hole passes all the way through the plug.  I made the basic shape, threaded it 1/4"-32, and then parted it off.


Changing to a 1/4" round collet, I held the plug by the threaded part and shaped the other end.  Then I drilled it about two-thirds of the way through with a #37 drill.  This will make the valve seat for the tapered end of the valve stem.  Then I tapped the end 6-32 to match the threads on the valve stem.


Now over to the mill to drill the cross hole.  When the valve is open, this will allow steam to go through to the blower pipe.  I started the hole with a 1/16Ē end mill, but for clearance reasons, switched to a 1/16Ē jobber length drill to finish the hole all the way through.


Here are the two parts made today.  On the left is the valve body, and on the right, is the plug.


I couldnít resist screwing the valve stem into the valve body to see how it would look.  It looked pretty cool to me!


The last piece of the blower apparatus will be some donuts and a short tube to connect the steam input bush to the blower bush on the boiler.

Thanks for looking in!
Kim

Offline crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3877 on: March 30, 2024, 11:03:27 PM »
Super clean parts!   :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3878 on: March 31, 2024, 12:13:06 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline Prowler901

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3879 on: March 31, 2024, 12:15:25 AM »
Great looking parts, Kim!  There are lot's of intricate little parts in the cab.  :ThumbsUp:

Todd

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3880 on: March 31, 2024, 05:37:58 AM »
Thanks, Chris, Jeff, and Todd!   :cheers:

... There are lot's of intricate little parts in the cab.
No kidding!  And there's still more of them to go.  After the blower, I've got, the blow-down valve, the sheet metal for the cab itself, the air tank (which is where the battery for the lights will be hidden), and lots of plumbing work.  And I mean a LOT of plumbing.  But I am getting close, which is very exciting!

Kim 

Offline Baltic

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3881 on: April 01, 2024, 01:55:38 AM »
Amazing work Kim, well done  :)

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3882 on: April 01, 2024, 04:46:39 AM »
Thanks Gary!  :cheers:
Kim

Offline RReid

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3883 on: April 01, 2024, 03:27:46 PM »
Quote
I couldnít resist screwing the valve stem into the valve body to see how it would look.  It looked pretty cool to me!
I agree! Enjoy the donuts (where's the coffee emoji?). :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:  :cheers:
Regards,
Ron

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3884 on: April 04, 2024, 06:12:32 PM »
For one reason or another, Iíve fallen a couple of days behind in my updates. But Iím going to try and catch up now.

So, on Monday, I finished up the blower valve pipe work.

Here are the donuts I made along with the short length of 1/8Ē OD copper tubing that will connect them.  Note that these donuts have that groove on the inside so that the steam can travel through the holes in the plug, around that groove, and into the tube.  Thatís the only tricky thing about the donuts is that inside groove.  But itís the same as the last couple of these I made.


Silver soldering the tube onto the donuts was a little problematic.  The silver solder kept wanting to plug the end of that tiny 1/8Ē tube.  It took me three tries on one end to get it soldered without blocking the tube.  And itís not like you can drill it out after itís soldered because thereís no way to get a drill in that tiny opening.  So I had to unsolder it, clean up the part, open up the hole, and try again.  My last try, the one that worked (which I guess is why it was my last try) was to put a bit of a chamfer on the inside of the hole in the copper tube to make it easier to work a bit of that correction fluid type anti-solder solution into the hole.  That seemed to keep the hole open through the soldering.  I had tried the fluid on the second try, but without opening up the hole in the tube, I donít think I got a meaningful amount of the stuff in the place I wanted it to go.  Anyway, I worked it out in the end.


And here it is in place on the backhead of the boiler. The plug toward the top of the backhead is the steam inlet, and the slightly lower one feeds the long tube through the boiler to the steam box where the blower pipe is attached.  It seems to work because I can feel air stream out the top of the smoke stack when I open that valve!  Pretty cool!


So thatís it for the blower valve.
Kim

 

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