Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 262727 times)

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3300 on: September 12, 2023, 11:34:41 AM »
 :Lol: :cheers: I think it might have been Sean Connery who said in a movie "don't bring a radius to a diameter fight"  :shrug:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3301 on: September 12, 2023, 04:38:10 PM »
:Lol: :cheers: I think it might have been Sean Connery who said in a movie "don't bring a radius to a diameter fight"  :shrug:
:lolb:

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3302 on: September 16, 2023, 11:01:34 PM »
Finishing up the headlight reflectors:

I held the smaller end of the part in a close(ish) fitting collet (61/64th), which worked well enough for this operation. These holes donít really have to be concentric to the rest of the part.  They are just there to make room for the wiring, and in my case, the current limiting resistor.


Then I countersunk the LED hole a bit from the backside to make room for the flange on the base of the LED.  This isnít in Kozoís plans, but then, Iím using an LED, and I want to make it so the LED doesnít slide all the way through.


Then over to the mill where I put a groove down the back side to provide the wires access to the pass-through hole in the base.  I did both reflectors back to back here.  This notch now defines the Ďbottomí of each of the reflectors.


Next, I drilled a hole on the top side for a set screw to hold the LED in place.


And tapped it 5-40.


This now completes the headlight reflectors.


After assembly, hereís what they look like.  Iím pretty happy with them!


Then I mounted one on the front of the engine.  The other will go on the tender, but I wonít add that till after itís painted.  Iíll have to take off here to paint too, of course, but Iíve got a lot of disassembly to do on the engine whenever I decide to do the next round of painting :)


Thanks for following my progress and for all your help along the way!
Kim

Offline Owen Gabbie

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3303 on: September 17, 2023, 03:29:56 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Offline Krypto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3304 on: September 17, 2023, 05:32:45 AM »
Looks great!
My Workshop Blog:  http://doug.sdf.org/

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3305 on: September 17, 2023, 06:34:17 AM »
Thanks Owen and Krypto!  :cheers:

Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3306 on: September 17, 2023, 02:40:13 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: The A3's looking great Kim! Headlight looks excellent on the boiler.  :cheers:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3307 on: September 17, 2023, 04:11:00 PM »
Thank you Jeff!  ;D

Kim

Offline Michael S.

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3308 on: September 17, 2023, 07:17:19 PM »
The headlight looks very good. Will there soon be a picture with LED and at night?

Michael

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3309 on: September 17, 2023, 07:20:26 PM »
The headlight looks very good. Will there soon be a picture with LED and at night?

Michael
Thanks Michael!
Interesting question... I'll have to give that a try!   :thinking:

Kim

Offline Don1966

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3310 on: September 17, 2023, 10:32:24 PM »
Awesome results KimÖÖ :Love:


 :cheers:
Don

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3311 on: September 21, 2023, 10:56:08 PM »
Thank you Don!  :cheers:
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3312 on: September 21, 2023, 11:15:22 PM »
Chapter 27.1 Ė Boiler Jacket

This week Iím moving on to the next section which covers the Boiler Jacket and the Handrails.  And first up, is the Boiler Jacket. This, as the name implies, is a covering around the boiler to help minimize heat loss.  In real life, this would cover additional lagging around the boiler.  But in order to maximize the volume of the boiler, Kozo chose to skip any lagging and just go with the thin, mostly decorative, jacket.

I started by making a paper template of the boiler jacket. To be clear, this wasnít because I doubted Kozoís dimensions for the jacket, but rather, I worried that my boiler was out of dimension here or there and might require some customization.

After laying it out on a B-size sheet, I cut out the paper jacket with an X-Acto knife.


And fitted it up to the boiler.  Turns out, all the holes line up as specified.  Maybe I did a better job on the boiler than I thought!  O:-) There will be a little customizing of the hole around the steam dome due to my overly generous solder application.  But I donít want to even touch that area for fear of inducing a leak in my boiler  :o


Having confirmed the design, I then cut a piece of 0.016Ē thick brass sheet (basically, 1/64Ē).  Kozo specifies 0.012" sheet for the jacket but the thinnest I could source was the 1/64", so that's what I used.  I roughed it out using a shear.  Normally Iíve been using the bandsaw to cut sheet stock since the shear can deform the edges of the sheet.  But this sheet was so thin I thought I could get away with the shear, which seems to have been the case.


Then I used the 2Ē belt grinder rotated on to its side to clean up the long edges of the cut and take it to the actual required size.


Then I laid out the features for the boiler jacket on the brass and used an optical center finder to find and mark all of the required holes.                                                                                                                                                                                                         


I tackled the big holes first by using a circle cutter that is normally used for wood.  This actually worked quite well.  I kept the speed very low for this operation (like 150ish RMP).  You can see the donut that was cut out of the center of the hole.


Then I drilled all the other holes.  I used a step drill for the 3/8Ē holes.  These were for clearance around the water inlets at the front of the boiler, and to make the rounded part of the back cut out as seen here:


Using a variety of tools (tinsnips, nibbler, and files) I cut the outside to shape.


And then bent the clamping edges over.  Kozo gives a double thickness for the clamping flanges for added strength.


After the initial bend with the break, I used pliers to fold the edges over more and then a brass hammer to make a nice tight fold along the edge.  Note that the center section between the two clamping tabs also has a folded edge.


I was going to finish this today but other things came up so Iíll complete it next time.  Still to go are drilling the holes for the clamping screws, making the final bend for the clamping surfaces. And of course, the final fitting around the boiler!

Thanks for taking a look,
Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3313 on: September 22, 2023, 03:51:36 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Sheetmetal's looking great!  :cheers:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline ShopShoe

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3314 on: September 22, 2023, 01:52:09 PM »
(Off-Topic Query)

Kim,

Can you tell more about your nibbler?  It looks similar to the old "Adel" nibbler beloved of electronics hobbyists decades ago and now seems to be NLA. I sure would like to get a decent hand nibbler nowadays.

ShopShoe

 

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