Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)

[Kim]

Thanks Chris, Dave, and Gene! 

You may have reached the point where it makes sense to try to apply full test pressure. The remaining leaks appear to be quite small and would not be expected to cause any structural issues.

The boiler will definitely "move" when pressurized. Some moves may be positive and others not so positive. But in either case the boiler will be much closer to its working configuration.

In use, those tiny leaks tend to heal up by themselves as they get jammed with crud. Of course it is nice to start with a perfect leak-free boiler.

Gene

Yeah, probably about time, isn't it?  I've just been using this low pressure testing because it's much easier to do and to clean up from.  But yeah, tomorrow may be the day when I actually fill the boiler with water and do an official pressure test...

I hope that all those other tools and things in the background are farther away than they look in the picture so they dont get melted! 

Well, I believe they are far enough away.  Haven't been a problem yet.  And yes, I do think they are farther away in reality than they look in the pictures! 

Once while working on silver soldering out in the driveway in the summer a neighbor came strolling up to see what I was doing, right into the flames path!    Had to wave them off to the side, where their eyes got real big when they saw the flame from the torch!      With the bright sun where they were and me in the shade they hadn't seen it, just heard the roar from the torch.

That sounds kinda scary!  Good to have neighbors who notice what's going on around the neighborhood though.  That can be really helpful in keeping packages on your porch and things like that!   

Kim

[Roger B]

One step (leak) at a time, it looks like you're getting there  Good luck for the pressure test   

[Kim]

Thank you, Roger! 

Kim

[Kim]

So, today I went for the real hydro test!  Here was my setup:


Got it all set up, holes plugged, filled with water, and even before I could put any pressure on it, I was noticing a leak.  A pretty good one, I’m afraid.  It took a while to find it. With the water, it just goes everywhere and I found it hard to locate the leak.  Not nearly as straightforward as the immersion test.  I knew it was from somewhere inside the firebox, but I wasn’t quite sure where.  It looked like it was on the firebox to tube sheet interface somewhere.  (Spoiler alert:  It wasn’t there though…)

I drained the water and went back to the submersion low-pressure air test and found it right away. It was inside the firebox alright, but it turns out, it is that nasty staybolt – the same one I tried to fix last time.  Interestingly, it wasn’t leaking at all in yesterday’s test. But clearly, my patch wasn’t very robust since it was leaking now!  Even worse than before.  The leak isn’t in the same place as last time, it’s on the opposite side of the staybolt.


So, I switch into patch mode and set it up on the hearth. Here’s where I started. Left the top open to give me a place to add some heat before I start focusing on the patch spot.  I use a low flame on the rest of the boiler to get it up to a few hundred degrees.  I’ve found that even at the end of a long solder session any part of the boiler that’s a bit away from the directly heated area isn’t much above 300-400 ^o, so I try not to go above that.  But I figure it helps cut down the dwell time on the flux in the area of interest.  I also put insulating material in two-thirds of the firebox to help protect things - you can see that in the picture.


I attacked it with the 50mm burner since that worked so well yesterday.  I hoped that would improve the heating compared to the last time I worked on this area.  Well, it didn’t help much.  I think that the area to patch is just too far down a skinny hole (at least, the way I had it set up there).  So, what I did was to remove the insulation material I had in most of the firebox.  I left a bit of rock wool up at the crown (and what was stuffed inside the tubes) but with the whole firebox opening available, I was able to get the staybolt up to temp and flash the solder fairly quickly.  Hopefully, I did a better job this time than last.

Then I covered over the boiler and have left it to cool for a couple of hours. Then it will be into the pickle.


Guess I’ll start with the low-pressure test tomorrow and then move to a hydro test.  The low pressure is so much neater and faster to clean up.  And easier to find the leaks!

Kim

[crueby]

Round and round  we (well, you) go. One time I had one that wouldn't  take the solder, so eone here suggested cleanin the spot with a pick and/or a fine rotary bit, to clean off any dirt or flux residue that was burned on. I don't know if that would help  here, but another trick to keep in mid. You'll  get there!

[cnr6400]

  Hang in there Kim! 

[Kim]

Thanks Chris and Jeff,

I just pulled and cleaned the boiler and I'm feeling pretty good about that patch at the moment.  We'll see if my confidence holds when I actually test it!

Kim

[JRP52]

(You're up early!    )

I got the Sawzall (Dewalt) with the variable speed so I'm ready to cut the other seven tender wheels!

And...I'm up to Page 182 on your writing.  Interesting - and I'll be sure to print it out to follow.

-Jim

[Kim]

(You're up early!    )

Thanks, but that was actually bedtime for me!  I've been pulling the boiler out of the pickle just before I go up to brush my teeth and go to bed!

I got the Sawzall (Dewalt) with the variable speed so I'm ready to cut the other seven tender wheels!

Great!  That looks like a real beast!  Sounds like you're ready to go now.  Looking forward to your tender wheel update! 

And...I'm up to Page 182 on your writing.  Interesting - and I'll be sure to print it out to follow.

-Jim

And you're up to real-time now - watching me as I painstakingly work through my boiler issues...  I'll be out of this soon, I'm sure! (he says with blind optimism  )

 Kim

[JRP52]

Sleep tight!!

[Kim]

I started with the submerged low-pressure air test today.  Found six pinhole leaks.  All repeats…   

Three in the lower part of the tubes in the front tube sheet.


Two on the same side of the steam dome base.


And one on the top staybolt in the backhead.


I’m trying what Chris said. I used a little rotary bit in my Dremel and some small files to clean each area this time.  I took off most of the solder around each leak and tried to get down to bare metal.  Couldn’t quite make it in some places, but it was definitely a lot cleaner than it was before!

I started with the backhead stay.


After completing the backhead stay:


Then moved to the front tubes.


And finally, the steam dome base.


And then covered for cooling.


Well, I think I’m definitely the winner of the most boring build log on MEM right now.  I may stop posting for a bit till I’ve got something more exciting than ‘more patches’ to report.  Or just do every third round of patches or something like that.

Hope I haven’t been boring you all too silly here.  This is quite a process for me though, and I appreciate all your patience and advice along the way.

Kim

[cnr6400]

 

Step by step Kim. You will get there! 

[crueby]

Its not boring, its realistic,  shows whats involved and all the different  techniques.  Keep it coming.

[JRP52]

 

[RReid]

I agree with Chris. Besides, we get to relax and learn while you go on doing all the hard work!