Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 129220 times)

Offline Don1966

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1485 on: January 21, 2022, 05:04:03 AM »
Getting closer Kim and excellent work and presentationÖ.. :Love:




 :drinking-41:
Don

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1486 on: January 21, 2022, 01:31:30 PM »
Hi Kim,
I do like all the small details of this build.
There are so many tiny part to make.
Nice to see it coming together.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1487 on: January 21, 2022, 05:50:16 PM »
Thanks for following along Don and Achim!   :cheers:

Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1488 on: January 24, 2022, 01:12:32 AM »
Now that Iíve got the measurements for the eccentric rods, itís time to make them.  It turns out that one needs to be about 8 thou longer than the other.  But they are both about 25 thou longer than Kozo showed on the plans.  I guess thatís why he says to measure them and make them THAT size! :)

The eccentric rods were made from 1/8Ē x 1/4Ē 1018 flat bar.

The first op was to drill the center for the end holes at exactly my measured values.  I made the holes an interim size so it's easier to hold in a jig.  Iíll drill them out to the final size when the rest of the machining is done.


With that done, I will do the rest of the operations relative to the holes themselves.  That way I donít have to worry about the actual lengths of the rods.  So here Iím using a gauge pin to center on one of the holes before the next op.


Which is to drill 1/8Ē holes that help define the rod from the rounded ends.  This is the small end, so it only gets 2 holes.  Since some of these holes are on the edge of the part I used a 1/8Ē center cutting end mill for this op.


Now, this is the big end.  It has an oil fixture built-in.  So I drilled four holes; above and below the rod, and then to the left and right of the oil fixture.  Again, all holes locations were measured relative to the center of the big-end rod hole.


And then I drilled the oil hole.


Now we start to shape the rod.  I used a roughing mill to take down the bigger side some. This is not the final tapered shape, but it gets rid of a bunch of metal before the next step.  Just to help give context I put the part I hadnít done yet in front of the vise jaws so you can hopefully see the difference between the two.  I also took a little metal off the small end and took the oil fixture to the correct height.


Next, I filed the ends round using filing buttons.


Now to thin the rod section down I mounted it vertically to the jig and peeled off a bit from each side.  This is why I used the roughing mill to take out a bunch of metal.  It just made less to thin here. The picture shows just after completing the first side:


With the sides thinned, it is now time to taper the rod.  While this looks like the same jig (and it IS the same hunk of aluminum) I actually drilled a different set of holes that holds the rod at a very slight angle (about 0.46o or so).  Then a few careful passes on each side here and the rod was all tapered.


With that, the rods are complete!  Except, now that I look at the picture I realize I never re-drilled the holes to the final size.  So Iíll be doing that first thing next time!  But that shouldnít take much effort.


I still have a bushing to make for the big end, then itíll be ready for assembly.

Thanks for checking in on my build!
Kim

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1489 on: January 24, 2022, 01:19:59 AM »
Hi Kim

You are making great progress and everything is looking very nice! I have not said much lately but I'm still following along with each update.


Dave

Offline steamer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1490 on: January 24, 2022, 01:30:45 AM »
It's like watching Kozo do another article!!! that whole thing is coming along splendidly!   I Remember the adjustable link issue quite well.   

She's going to be a nice runnah for sure.    Still following along Kim,

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline RReid

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1491 on: January 24, 2022, 02:02:13 AM »
More really nice work, Kim.  :ThumbsUp:
Regards,
Ron

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1492 on: January 24, 2022, 05:16:03 AM »
Thanks Dave, Dave, and Ron!  :cheers:

I do believe it will be a runner.  At least, I hope so!  I'm certainly enjoying the build and learning a lot from Kozo's book.

Kim

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1493 on: January 24, 2022, 06:20:25 AM »
Hi Kim,
very nice rods. I do like the finish over all. Smooth surface.

Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1494 on: January 24, 2022, 04:34:25 PM »
Thank you Achim!
Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1495 on: January 24, 2022, 10:32:19 PM »
Chapter 17.16 Ė Bushings

Today I made the bushing for the big ends.  It was a super simple turning exercise.  So simple that I didnít take any pictures.  And now that they are Locktited into place and behind the pins, you canít even see them.   Ah wellÖ

But with all the valve gear in place, I just couldnít resist trying to run things on Air!

So, I put the covers on the steam chests and gave it a go.    I was hoping that the radius rods would stay in the lower position even without anything there to hold them down.  Gravity is working in my favor here. :)

And here's the documented evidence; Thereís a ton of air loss. Sure, there are no gaskets but the biggest loser is the holes for the cylinder cocks.  Of course, I havenít made those yet!  So, I took some short 8-32 screws and gently placed them in the 8-36 cylinder cock holes.  I didnít tighten them very much because I didnít want to screw up the threads.  Only got a thread and a half of engagement, of course, but it's better than a wide-open hole.  Still quite breezy under the cylinders I can tell you.  But the important thing is, IT WORKS!  :pinkelephant:

Some of the loud clacking you hear is coming from the front wheels tipping back and forth due to the suspension wiggling.  So I taped that down to decrease the rattling.  And while I was doing that I had an idea!  I could tape the radius rods in the UP position, and see if it will run in reverse!  And sure enough, it does!  :cartwheel:

While it takes a good bit of air to get things started, I think it will get better when Iím losing less air through the cylinder cock holes.  But I can feel air escaping around the steam valve rod gland too, so those will need some attention on the packing.

But the fact that it runs is just so exciting I can hardly stand it!  I even made my wife step out into the shop to see it go!  :cartwheel: :pinkelephant: :cartwheel:

Thanks for looking and sharing my happiness!
Kim

Offline propforward

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1496 on: January 24, 2022, 10:38:25 PM »
Well done Kim! What a milestone, I can totally understand your excitement. Very well done!
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Online crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1497 on: January 24, 2022, 10:45:05 PM »
 :whoohoo:


Excellent!! 


Part of the clicking was probably your grin splitting your face!

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1498 on: January 24, 2022, 11:07:35 PM »
Thanks Stuart and Chris!
Yes, you're right, I did have a face-splitting grin for sure!  ;D

Kim

Online cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1499 on: January 24, 2022, 11:53:46 PM »
Excellent Kim! she's a runner! well done.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: