Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 96311 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1200 on: August 21, 2021, 01:23:35 AM »
Hi Kim

The 518 gasket eliminator is a great product, I have been using it for years.
The running gear looks real nice with the cylinders added.

Dave
What kind of temperature can the 518 withstand? Whats it like to take apart again?

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1201 on: August 21, 2021, 05:32:10 AM »
Hi Kim

The 518 gasket eliminator is a great product, I have been using it for years.
The running gear looks real nice with the cylinders added.

Dave
What kind of temperature can the 518 withstand? Whats it like to take apart again?

The temperature range I found quoted online -65F to 300F (-55C to 150C).  That seemed like an acceptable temperature range for steam.

As for how hard it is to disassemble, Dave might have some better input here, but Kozo does recommend putting in screws to help break the seal on any of the surfaces you seal with this (like the cylinder heads and the steam chest cover).  So it might be a little difficult to open up...

Kim

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1202 on: August 22, 2021, 05:24:04 PM »
With regards to the 518 Gasket Eliminator, it ca be a real bugger to disassemble items that have been sealed together with it. But that really depends on the joint design and how much surface area is involved. Jacking screws or some sort of relief where you can get a prying tool would be a good idea. If the area is small and you have something to grip it may be possible to just pop it apart.

I went to a Loctite class many years ago for work, during the class the instructor sealed two pipe flanges together with 518. One flange was blank and the other had an air chuck on it. After the sealer had cured he loosened the bolts but did not remove them, he proceeded to pressurize the assembly with a couple hundred pounds from a gas cylinder and the flanges did not leak or blow apart.

Dave

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1203 on: August 23, 2021, 12:34:48 AM »
Thanks Dave! Appreciate the info on the 518 gasket eliminator.  Sounds like good stuff!

Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1204 on: August 23, 2021, 12:42:58 AM »
Chapter 14.11 – Steam Deflector and Exhaust Deflector

These last parts are really part of the Tee.  The first is the Steam Deflector, which splits the steam into the two passageways, one to the left, and one to the right, while mixing in some oil to lubricate the cylinders. The second is the Exhaust Deflector, which takes the exhaust from the two cylinders and curves it up toward the chimney.

Starting with the Steam Deflector; this was made from a length of 0.5” x 0.75” brass bar.  I started by centering it up in the 4-jaw then drilling a tinny (#56 I think) hole  0.75” deep – this needs to go all the way through the deflector.  This little hole will be for delivering the oil.


Then I quickly drilled a slightly larger hole to about 1/16”, again, for use with the compression connection to the oil input.


Now we start making the deflector take shape.  The first 1/4" will be threaded 5/16” for the oil connection.


Then, using a flat-tipped parting tool, I brought a 3/8” length to 5/16” diameter.


Next, I cut the 5/16-24 threads.  I was supposed to have done this before the last step, but at least I remembered to do it before I the part off!


After cutting it off, I moved to the mill where I found the center with a gauge pin, then drilled and countersunk the mounting holes.


Flipping the part over, I used a 45o chamfer tool to bring the business end of the steam deflector to a peak.  This is where the steam, coming in from above, will be split left and right, and mix with the oil.


Oh!  And one last thing I almost forgot – I need to thin the 1/2" width down to 15/32”, so I shaved 1/64” off both sides.  This operation completes the steam deflector.


Now, for the Exhaust Deflector.  This one is 25/32” long which means I couldn’t make it out of the same 0.5” x 0.75” bar. So I switched to a 0.875” diameter brass rod for this one.  The exhaust deflector is simpler (no oil connection).  I made the basic shape then cut off the part.


Next, I cut the width of the base down to 15/32”.


To find the center on the mill, I used a coaxial center finder (fun little tool!)


Then drilled the mounting holes:


To help redirect the exhaust upward Kozo uses a curve surface here.  I used a 3/8” ball end mill to get the curve shape:


And finally, flipping it over, I countersunk for the mounting screw heads.


And here are the two completed deflectors; the one on the left is the exhaust and on the right is the steam (with the extra oil connection).


And finally, I mounted the deflectors in the steam Tee.  If you recall, there were two holes that went through to the bottom of the Tee.  Here’s where the deflectors will be inserted.  The hole on the left is the steam delivery, the one on the right is the exhaust.


Here they are after mounting.  Not quite as interesting of a picture, but hopefully they'll be more functional inserted in the right place!


That completes the cylinder assembly.  Next up will be the pistons and crossheads.  Unfortunately, there’ll be a break in our regularly scheduled build as I will be taking some days (weeks?  months?  :o) to clean up the garage.  Not just my shop, but the other half where all the excess house stuff gets stored.  While that will take some time, it will be good to get it cleaned up!

Thanks for stopping by,
Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1205 on: August 23, 2021, 03:25:53 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Good luck with the garage cleanup. BTW I know a guy on here with a Marion steam shovel, a Mann steam truck, and lots of shop elves, if you need a hand...... :Lol:

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1206 on: August 23, 2021, 05:19:50 AM »
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Good luck with the garage cleanup. BTW I know a guy on here with a Marion steam shovel, a Mann steam truck, and lots of shop elves, if you need a hand...... :Lol:

Thanks for the offer of Chris's equipment and shop hands.  I could definitely use the help!  Though I think the most help would be a great big dumpster sitting in my driveway for a week!  :ROFL:

Kim

Offline steamer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1207 on: August 23, 2021, 05:28:36 AM »
Oh those are the best kinds of clean ups!    It's harder to retrieve if its in a dumpster!!!

Good luck with it Kim!

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1208 on: August 23, 2021, 02:06:21 PM »
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Good luck with the garage cleanup. BTW I know a guy on here with a Marion steam shovel, a Mann steam truck, and lots of shop elves, if you need a hand...... :Lol:


That sounds interes....ting....   HEY!!     :lolb:

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1209 on: August 23, 2021, 06:48:28 PM »
 :naughty:  :cheers:

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1210 on: September 14, 2021, 11:06:29 PM »
It’s been three weeks since my last update, and during that time the garage has gotten a LOT cleaner!  It’s so clean you could eat off the floor! …er… well, I wouldn’t suggest that.  But you can at least see the floor!  And THAT’s a big improvement!  I’ve still got several piles of stuff to get out of the garage yet (dump, Haz-Mat, e-waste, stuff to re-home) but it’s WAY better and should be even better when I get all the ‘in transition’ piles taken care of.

But today, I have an update on my Pennsy Switcher!

Chapter 15.1 – Pistons

Kozo specifies Phosphor Bronze for the pistons, the same material as the cylinders.  So I used 932 Bearing Bronze (SAE 660) same as I did for the cylinders. I used 1” nominal round stock and turned it down to just under 7/8” (0.8735”) to allow for different expansion between the piston and the cylinder.  Then used the 1/8” Warner grooving tool to cut a 9/64” groove for some graphite yarn to seal the piston.


Then I drilled and reamed a 3/16” hole in the center for the piston rod, and cut off the part, slightly over length.


Finally, I faced the cut-off end to get the desired piston length, holding it in the 7/8” collet.


And here are the completed set of pistons.


Next up will be the piston rod.

Thanks for your patience during my once per decade garage cleaning ritual :)
Kim

Offline crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1211 on: September 14, 2021, 11:16:10 PM »
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline steamer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1212 on: September 15, 2021, 12:11:12 AM »
No worries Kim    watching along!
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline RReid

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1213 on: September 15, 2021, 12:43:39 AM »
Glad you got your chores done and can get back to playing! Pretty pistons. :ThumbsUp:
Regards,
Ron

Offline Don1966

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1214 on: September 15, 2021, 04:48:32 AM »
 Yep…….I…………likeeeeeee…  :Love:



 :drinking-41:
Don