Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 327567 times)

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1050 on: May 27, 2021, 12:17:23 AM »
Looking very nice Kim!

Dave

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1051 on: May 27, 2021, 05:16:17 AM »
Thank you, Dave!  :cheers:
Kim

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1052 on: May 27, 2021, 06:44:11 AM »
Hi Kim, more and more are coming together. Nice progress.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Roger B

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1053 on: June 06, 2021, 12:24:21 PM »
Good to see the running gear together  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Best regards

Roger

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1054 on: June 06, 2021, 03:45:13 PM »
Thank you Achim and Roger!
Haven't made much progress lately - too many home projects that need doing right now.  It will be a while before I get back out to the shop.
Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1055 on: June 20, 2021, 08:44:05 PM »
Chapter 14.1 – Cylinders

Over the past two weeks started working on the cylinders.  These are complex parts, carved from a solid bit of bar stock and will have lots of steps involved.  This first installment covers some basic shaping.

The Cylinders are made from a ~1 7/8” piece of 2” Bronze bar.  Again, I used 932 bearing bronze.  This was one of the most expensive bits of material I purchased for this build (but not THE most expensive - the copper sheets used for the boiler win that prize!) A one-foot length of 2” 932 bronze cost $114.   I could have purchased the castings from Friends for a little less ($95 for the pair).  However, with the bar stock, I’ve got enough material to try several times and still have some leftover for future use.  Besides, I wanted to make it all from bar stock. :)


While those were being sliced by the bandsaw, I took a piece of 1” 12L14 and made a plug gauge.   I made several graduations; the first ones are more coarse.  Those close to the target are at 0.001” graduations.  All of the steps are 1/8” long except the target bore of 7/8” (0.875”) which I made 1/4” wide.


After the cylinders were cut off, I faced off both sides on the lathe.


Then on the mill, I shaved off one side:


Flipped it over, then shaved down the other side:


And finally, a third side.  Each of these was done to a very precise depth, of course.


And finally, I took a step out of that last side.  This is where the cylinders start becoming left and right-handed.  They are still rotationally symmetrical for a few more steps, but pretty soon that goes away too, so I’ll be labeling them L and R from now on.


The cylinder is bored off-center.  I found the right spot, centered it up using the four jaw, drilled a pilot hole then drilled to 13/16” leaving the last 1/16” for boring, which I’m doing here:


And creeping up very carefully on the desired 0.875”, and using the plug gauge, I was able to hit the target bore!  The first label you see there is 0.876” – which means that the 0.875” size went into the hole, but the 0.876” didn’t.  This is good :)


With that done, I cut the 1 7/16” + 0.005” diameter cylinder on the end (1/8” deep) which will be the basic shape of the main cylinder.  The extra 5 thou are left for truing up once the rest of the cylinder is shaped.


I flipped the part around in the 4-jaw chuck, re-centered on the 7/8" bore and made the same 1/8" deep round shape on the other side.  With that done, here are both the left and the right cylinders with the basic shaping complete.


Thank you for stopping by and taking a look!
Kim

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1056 on: June 20, 2021, 10:58:17 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline RReid

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1057 on: June 20, 2021, 11:53:46 PM »
Very nice work Kim! Glad you made it out to the shop!  :ThumbsUp:
Regards,
Ron

Offline Don1966

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1058 on: June 21, 2021, 03:19:04 AM »
Every piece is another step closer and looks great Kim….. :Love:



 :cheers:
Don

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1059 on: June 21, 2021, 05:30:46 AM »
Thank you, CNR, Ron, and Don!

While this was one update, it represents 3 different shop sessions over the last many weeks.  I tend to only put in 3-4 hours in one session. If I try to go on much longer than that it quits being fun and starts feeling like work.   And clearly, I don't set any speed records.  But I do have fun!

Thanks for the kind comments,
Kim

Online steamer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1060 on: June 21, 2021, 03:43:22 PM »
Keep at it Kim..I was outside in the 90+ F heat all day yesterdayand I worked myself to exhaustion..but I feel good today..and ready to get back at it.

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1061 on: June 22, 2021, 05:10:34 AM »
Thanks Dave!

That's too hot for me!  I'd give out WAY before 90F!  :insane:
Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1062 on: June 25, 2021, 10:24:45 PM »
I’ve made a bit more progress.  It’s cool enough in the morning for me to get out in the shop for a while, but it doesn’t take long for things to get hotter than I can stand (or want to stand).  So it's been an hour or two here and there.

The last step for the basic shaping is to bring the valve face and steam port face to the correct width.  Starting with the valve face, I shaved a bit off of that to make it 1 3/32” wide.


Then carefully repositioning the cylinder, took the steam port face down to the same.  Each of these cuts were to match up with the cylinder shape on the ends, so it took some careful milling in those last steps.


Here are the two cylinders with the business faces at the correct size.


Next, I’ll attack the valve face.  I made my sketch of all the important data points for the steam ports, then used a 1/16” drill to make holes at each corner of the ports.


Then, with a 1/16” mill, carved out the steam ports.  The inlet ports are just a hair over 1/16” (0.078” which just happens to be 2mm) and the exhaust port is 0.394” wide (10mm wide).  Seems Kozo didn’t bother to change this part of his design from metric.  Worked fine for me.  But it’s interesting nevertheless!


Finally, I drilled the 8 mounting holes for securing the steam chest. #47 for a 3-48 thread.


At this point, it was just too hot and I decided to close up for the day.

One more of these to do, then I’ll move on to the steam port side that connects up to the Steam-T. 

Thanks for checking in,
Kim

Offline RReid

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1063 on: June 25, 2021, 10:32:06 PM »
Looking good Kim!

Quote
At this point, it was just too hot and I decided to close up for the day.
When my son and daughter-in-law bought their house in Portland, they thought "We don't need to install AC, this is cool and rainy Portland". After suffering through the last couple of summers of record heat, they just recently corrected their mistake!
Regards,
Ron

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1064 on: June 26, 2021, 05:04:29 AM »
Boy, ain't that the truth!  We have AC, in the house, that is. But not in the shop (i.e. garage!)

I grew up in Portland and we've always had hot days - days when I wished we had AC, but when I was growing up, that wasn't something most people had (in this area anyway).  That's certainly changing!

This is the kind of heat we don't usually get till the end of July or August.  And here we are, mid-June, breaking records!  They're predicting 112-114F on Sunday!  That's Pheonix temperatures, not Portland!  :o

Kim

 

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