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Those pins have some crazy tolerances. You can imagine me reading the drawings, then looking at my 7x16 mini-lathe, then back to the drawing, then frowning at the mini lathe ....I made it work by doing the last few tenths with hand files! In the end it not sure that level of tolerance was really necessary. But here we are.
What an elegant jig! Never seen that kind before.And its nice to see someone else using 'free-range metal' for jigs! Dug out of those surface mines called 'forests'...
Chapter 12.6 – QuarteringTo make the quartering jig, I pulled out all my latent woodworking skills. .... This is what Kozo shows in his book and I’m sure is standard practice, but all new to me.....That’s it for this update!Kim
For the future reference of others (I hope Kim does not mind) ...
you can make this jig w/o a rotary table. Secure the two ends to one another as Kim did - they MUST be machined together (mine were aluminum so I screwed them together). Then you can clamp this to your milling machine table, angled to 45* (I used a Combination square. This only needs to be close to 45). Be sure to put something underneath them, like plywood, to not mill your table! Now, you mill that inside “V” using x and y feed, one axis at a time. This will get you the 90* “v” you need. There is a jog in the parts that is oriented differently on each side of the jig - so you will need to flip one of the ends before assembly. In a sense, that makes the most critical part of this jig drilling the holes used to bolt each side of the jig to the base such that the ends are perfectly aligned.
A lot of good stuff happening in this thread, looking good Kim! Don