Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 327888 times)

Offline Roger B

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #960 on: March 24, 2021, 10:45:38 AM »
 8)  8)  8)
Best regards

Roger

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #961 on: March 24, 2021, 11:53:34 AM »
I love the wheels - especially those two where you 'only have a red stripe' round the recessed edge of the counterweight - gives them an extra touch of Class  :praise2:

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #962 on: March 24, 2021, 05:37:25 PM »
Thanks for the comments Roger and Per!

I love the wheels - especially those two where you 'only have a red stripe' round the recessed edge of the counterweight - gives them an extra touch of Class  :praise2:

I agree - it does give it a sharp look!

I should have clarified when I posted the picture originally, but all four wheels are painted exactly the same.  It's just that two are turned over to show the backside (the top two with more red). On the back, everything between the central hub and the rim is recessed 1/16". The bottom two are showing the front side where the entire hub, counter-weight, and rim are all at the same level - so just the spokes and the v-groove that defines the inside of the rim are painted. This is one of the things that made the masking process a bit complex!


Thanks,
Kim

Offline Don1966

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #963 on: March 24, 2021, 08:27:58 PM »
Kim have you ever thought of pllating the rest of the metal? Micro Mark has plating for nickel chrome and I have used it on one of my engines to stop it from resting. The other engines I built,  I use stainless on them. If it’s not kept oiled they will rust even in your home. Another way to keep them from rusting is to put them in doll cases with the top completely sealed and throw some desiccant in it. I keep my brass engines in them and the patina stays one color. Only terminal expansion cases air to move in and out of it.

Regards Don

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #964 on: March 24, 2021, 09:10:41 PM »
Better than commercial grade! Awesome work.
Wow, you have a come a long way.

And I enjoy your source of stress relief as well.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline steamer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #965 on: March 25, 2021, 12:59:13 AM »
Nicely done Kim!     Kozo would be very proud of those!!!!.  I remember reading that build series when it came out....great read!!

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #966 on: March 25, 2021, 03:53:46 AM »
Thanks Don, Zee, and Dave! :)   :cheers:

Kim

Offline Barneydog

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #967 on: March 26, 2021, 01:29:12 PM »
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :cartwheel: :cartwheel:

Nice job Kim

Cheers

Julian

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #968 on: March 26, 2021, 02:42:46 PM »
Wheels look great Kim, major milestone!  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #969 on: March 26, 2021, 04:12:30 PM »
Thanks Julian and CNR!
Yes, it feels pretty good to have those drivers done! :)
Kim

Offline Steamer5

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #970 on: March 28, 2021, 08:37:55 AM »
Nice work on those wheels Kim!
They really look the part.

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #971 on: March 29, 2021, 07:58:15 PM »
Thanks Kerrin! :cheers:
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #972 on: March 29, 2021, 07:59:44 PM »
Over the weekend I did several small parts.  So I’ll have a few short posts to bring the build log up to date.  These parts go much faster than the wheels!

Chapter 12.2 – Driving Wheel Axles

The driver axels were super simple.  A length of 7/16” steel rod (12L14) trimmed to a specific length with little center holes in each end.


Not sure what the center holes in the ends are for, but they are clearly shown on the plans, so I put them there!


Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #973 on: March 29, 2021, 08:04:08 PM »
Chapter 12.3 – Pump Eccentric and Lubricator Eccentric

There are two eccentrics on the rear axle; one that powers the water pump and that powers the oil pump.  The eccentric for the water pump is a tich over 1” in diameter, and has a 0.2” offset, therefore a 0.4” movement for each revolution.  The one for the lubrication system is a little smaller (just under 1”) with a 1/8” offset (or total throw of 1/4").

I made both eccentrics from 12L14 round bar.  I started by taking the diameter to the specified size, then using a modified cut-off tool to cut the groove 7/32” wide as shown.


I touched it with a center drill, just to mark the center, then cut the part off the parent (no picture of these, but trust me, I did it!) and flipped it around and faced off the backside.


Here are the two eccentrics up to that stage – you can see the center mark on them so you have proof that I did what I said :)


On the mill, I used the laser center to zero in on the center spot I’d made.


Then from there, I offset 0.200”  (or 0.125” for the smaller one) and drilled, in steps, up to just under 7/16”. I followed that with a 7/16” reamer (implied, but not shown).


With the axle hole drilled, I drilled and tapped a 5-40 hole for a set screw.


And here are the two completed eccentrics – the one on the left is the Pump Eccentric, and the one on the right is the Lubricator Eccentric.


And that completes the eccentrics.

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #974 on: March 29, 2021, 08:08:19 PM »
Chapter 12.4 – Crankpins

Next up were the crankpins.

These were almost as simple as the axles, but I did have to shave these down to size. Since I didn’t have any 7/32” rod, I took a 5/16” rod (12L14 again) and cut it down to 7/32”.  The center section was also dusted off by 0.001” to make a better rotating fit for the rods.  You can almost imagine it in this picture!


Then I cut off the pin.


After they were removed from the parent stock I flipped them around in a 7/32” collet and faced the backside off to get the exact length specified.

And here are the two completed pins, ready to be loctited into the drivers.  But that’s going to have to wait till after I quarter the wheels.


And that brings you up to date on where I am in the build. 

Next up will be the side rod pins, then I’ll quarter the wheels on the axles. And that’s like a serious train thing to do!  You know you’re really building a steam locomotive when you have to quarter your wheels!

Thanks for checking in!
Kim

 

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