Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 444933 times)

Online Kim

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Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« on: October 19, 2018, 01:58:26 AM »
After I started the build, I wished I'd left space for an index.  Since I didn't, I'm adding it to the beginning of my intro post.  The actual introduction starts right after the build index. Please skip up there if you don't want to read the index :)


*10/5/2024: My latest updated BOM spreadsheet (Rev E) has been attached at the bottom of this post.  It has updates through the end of the build, including the pressure gauge and dead weight tester.
*1/15/2024: A newly updated BOM spreadsheet (Rev D) has been attached at the bottom of this post. - It has updates up through most of Chapter 29 (Sand Dome)*
*2/4/2023: A newly updated BOM spreadsheet (Rev C) has been attached at the bottom of this post. Has changes up through the first half of Chapter 23 (Boiler)*



Index of Kim's Kozo's Pennsy A3 Switcher Build:


Tender

Chapter 2: Tender Wheels
Chapter 2.1 - Tender Wheels - Reply 20
Chapter 2.2 - Tender Axles - Reply 105

Chapter 3: Tender Truck Frames
Chapter 3.1 - Journal Boxes - Reply 116
Chapter 3.2 - Journal Bearings - Reply 142
Chapter 3.3 - Columns - Reply 157
Chapter 3.4 - Bolsters and Side Bearings - Reply 170
Chapter 3.5 - Tie Bars and Arch Bars - Reply 201
Chapter 3.6 - Coil Springs - Reply 234

Chapter 4: Tender Frame
Chapter 4.1 - Side Sills - Reply 251
Chapter 4.2 – Front End Sill and Rear End Sill - Reply 262
Chapter 4.3 – Front and Rear Bolster - Reply 296
Chapter 4.4 – Drawbar Pocket and Drawbar - Reply 298
Chapter 4.5 – Front Steps - Reply 303
Chapter 4.6 – Step Brackets - Reply 323
Chapter 4.7 – Rear Coupler Pocket - Reply 329
Chapter 4.8 – Foot Board - Reply 342
Chapter 4.9 – Center Pins and Drawbar Pin - Reply 348

Powder Coating the Trucks and Frames - Reply 360

Chapter 5: Tender Tank
Chapter 5.1 – Tank Floor - Reply 421
Chapter 5.2 – Side Plates - Reply 447
Chapter 5.3 – Side Corner Members - Reply 463
Chapter 5.4 – Bottom Horseshoe Member and Top Horseshoe Member - Reply 475
Chapter 5.5 – Verge Board - Reply 480
Chapter 5.6 – Vertical Board - Reply 489
                       Vertical Board Revisited - Reply 507
Chapter 5.7 – Front Plates - Reply 503
                       Front Plates Continued - Reply 518
Chapter 5.8 – Top Plate - Reply 528
Chapter 5.9 – Rear Corner Member - Reply 546
Chapter 5.10 – Soft Soldering and Filing the Bottom - Reply 552
Chapter 5.11 – Headlight Baseplate and Headlight Base - Reply 573
Chapter 5.12 – Coal Stopper - Reply 589
Chapter 5.14 – Dummy Side Plates - Reply 599

Chapter 6: Tender Manhole
Chapter 6.1 – Mounting Plate, Manhole Plate, and Lug - Reply 613
                       Manhole Plate - Reply 619
                       Lug - Reply 629
Chapter 6.2 – Manhole - Reply 620
Chapter 6.3 – Manhole Cover - Reply 634
Chapter 6.4 – Hinges and Pin - Reply 637

Chapter 7: Steps and Handrails
Chapter 7.1 – Steps - Reply 641
Chapter 7.2 – Handrailing - Reply 644
Chapter 7.3 – Handholds - Reply 661
Chapter 7.4 – Handholds - Reply 673

Chapter 8: Hand Pump
Chapter 8.1 – Pump body - Reply 683
Chapter 8.2 – Plunger - Reply 710
Chapter 8.3 – O-Ring Retainer - Reply 712
Chapter 8.4 – Plug - Reply 724
Chapter 8.5 – Suction Valve - Reply 725
                       Suction Valve Screen Retainer - Reply 742
Chapter 8.6 – Link - Reply 731
Chapter 8.7 – Lever - Reply 746
Chapter 8.8 – Handle - Reply 752
Chapter 8.9 – Pins - Reply 753

Chapter 9: Tender Piping
Chapter 9.1 – Drain Pipe, Drain Plug, Suction Stud, Delivery Stud, Suction Strainer and Nut - Reply 760
                       Drain Plug - Reply 761
                       Suction Stud and Delivery Stud - Reply 761
                       Suction Strainer and Nut - Reply 767
Chapter 9.2 – Nipple Joints and Nipples - Reply 768
Chapter 9.3 – Union Nuts - Reply 768
Chapter 9.4 – Pipe Tip - Reply 771
Chapter 9.5 – Pipe Clamps and Tube Clamps - Reply 771
Chapter 9.6 – Rubber Tubes - Reply 771
Chapter 9.7 – Bending a Copper Tube - Reply 774
Chapter 9.8 - Assembling the Tender - Reply 783
                       Adding Lettering to the Tank - Reply 802


Engine

Chapter 10: Main Frame
Chapter 10.1 – Side Frames - Reply 793
Chapter 10.2 – Pedestal Braces - Reply 818
Chapter 10.3 – Rear Axle Boxes - Reply 824
Chapter 10.4 – Front Bumper and Footplate - Reply 839
Chapter 10.5 – Remaining Work for Side Frames - Reply 832
Chapter 10.6 – Corssties and Pins - Reply 851
Chapter 10.7 – Front Coupler Pocket - Reply 853
Chapter 10.8 – Foot Board - Reply 866
Chapter 10.9 – Drawbar Pocket and Drawbar Pin - Reply 873

Chapter 11: Axle Boxes
Chapter 11.1 – Front Axle Boxes and Axle Box Caps - Reply 878
Chapter 11.2 – Bushings - Reply 886

Chapter 12: Driving Wheels
Chapter 12.1 – Driving Wheels - Reply 891
Chapter 12.2 – Driving Wheel Axles - Reply 972
Chapter 12.3 – Pump Eccentric and Lubricator Eccentric - Reply 973
Chapter 12.4 – Crankpins - Reply 974
Chapter 12.5 – Side Rod Pins - Reply 978
Chapter 12.6 – Quartering - Reply 983

Chapter 13: Side Rods and Main Rods
Chapter 13.1 – Side Rods - Reply 995
Chapter 13.2 – Main Rods - Reply 1026
Chapter 13.3 – Bushings and Spacers - Reply 1042
Chapter 13.4 – Cotters and Bolts - Reply 1049

Chapter 14: Cylinders
Chapter 14.1 – Cylinders - Reply 1055
Chapter 14.2 – Steam Chests - Reply 1095
Chapter 14.3 – Steam Chest Covers - Reply 1111
Chapter 14.4 – Steam Chest Cover Casings - Reply 1123
Chapter 14.5 – Rear Cylinder Heads - Reply 1131
Chapter 14.6 – Front Cylinder Heads - Reply 1138
Chapter 14.7 – Cylinder Head Covers - Reply 1144
Chapter 14.8 – Piston Rod  Bushings and Valve Stem Bushings - Reply 1150
Chapter 14.9 – Bolts and Nuts - Reply 1151
Chapter 14.10 – Tee - Reply 1162
Chapter 14.11 – Steam Deflector and Exhaust Deflector - Reply 1204

Chapter 15: Pistons and Crossheads
Chapter 15.1 – Pistons - Reply 1210
Chapter 15.2 – Piston Rods and Pins - Reply 1223
Chapter 15.3 – Nuts - Reply 1223
Chapter 15.4 – Crossheads - Reply 1228
                       Crossheads Continued - Reply 1240
Chapter 15.5 – Crosshead Pins - Reply 1232
Chapter 15.6 – Slippers - Reply 1235
Chapter 15.7 – Assembly - Reply 1286

Chapter 16: Guide Yokes
Chapter 16.1 – Tie Plate - Reply 1300
Chapter 16.2 – Guide Yokes - Reply 1320
                       Guide Yokes Continued - Reply 1337
Chapter 16.3 – Guides - Reply 1332

Chapter 17: Valve Gear
Chapter 17.1 – Valves - Reply 1370
Chapter 17.2 – Valve Nuts - Reply 1389
Chapter 17.3 – Valve Spindles - Reply 1397
Chapter 17.4 – Valve Spindle Yokes - Reply 1399
Chapter 17.5 – Combination Levers - Reply 1404
Chapter 17.6 – Union Links - Reply 1412
Chapter 17.7 – Link Brackets - Reply 1417
Chapter 17.8 – Radius Rods - Reply 1422
Chapter 17.9 – Link Blocks - Reply 1427
Chapter 17.10 – Expansion Links and Trunnion Plates - Reply 1438
Chapter 17.11 – Link Brackets - Reply 1453
Chapter 17.12 – Return Cranks - Reply 1462
Chapter 17.13 – Pins - Reply 1473
Chapter 17.14 – Setting Return Cranks - Reply 1475
Chapter 17.15 – Eccentric Rods - Reply 1476
Chapter 17.16 – Bushings - Reply 1495

Chapter 18: Reversing Gear
Chapter 18.1 – Running Boards - Reply 1551
Chapter 18.2 – Support Plates and Brackets - Reply 1566
Chapter 18.3 – Stand and Quadrant - Reply 1573
Chapter 18.4 – Reverse Lever - Reply 1603
Chapter 18.5 – Latch Lever - Reply 1610
Chapter 18.6 – Spring - Reply 1611
Chapter 18.7 – Pin and Collar - Reply 1619
Chapter 18.8 – Reach Rod - Reply 1625
Chapter 18.9 – Reverse Shaft - Reply 1630
Chapter 18.10 – Reach Rod Arm and Reverse Arm - Reply 1647
Chapter 18.11 – Reverse Shaft Bearings - Reply 1655
Chapter 18.12 – Radius Rod Hangers - Reply 1661
Chapter 18.13 – Pins - Reply 1662
Chapter 18.14 – Setting Reverse Arms - Reply 1667
Chapter 18.15 – Setting Reverse Gear and Cutting Notches - Reply 1667

Chapter 19: Cylindar Cocks
Chapter 19.1 – Cock Bodies - Reply 1686
Chapter 19.2 – Cock Plugs - Reply 1698
Chapter 19.3 – Links - Reply 1699
Chapter 19.4 – Arm Shaft - Reply 1700
Chapter 19.5 – Arm Shaft Bearings - Reply 1700
Chapter 19.6 – Arms - Reply 1713
Chapter 19.7 – Collar - Reply 1720
Chapter 19.8 – Front Bracket - Reply 1723
Chapter 19.9 – Rear Bracket - Reply 1724
Chapter 19.10 – Lever - Reply 1734
Chapter 19.11 – Reach Rod - Reply 1742
Chapter 19.12 – Link - Reply 1743
Chapter 19.13 – Pins - Reply 1747

Chapter 20: Feedwater Pump
Chapter 20.1 – Pump Body - Reply 1799
Chapter 20.2 – Fittings - Reply 1812
Chapter 20.3 – O-Ring Retainer - Reply 1816
Chapter 20.4 – Plunger - Reply 1816
Chapter 20.5 – Pin - Reply 1827
Chapter 20.6 – Eccentric Rod - Reply 1832
Chapter 20.7 – Eccentric Strap - Reply 1835

Chapter 21: Lubricator
Chapter 21.1 – Pump Housing - Reply 1843
Chapter 21.2 – Cover - Reply 1864
Chapter 21.3 – Pump Body - Reply 1867
Chapter 21.4 – Plug and Nut - Reply 1872
Chapter 21.5 – Plunger - Reply 1874
Chapter 21.6 – Crank - Reply 1877
Chapter 21.7 – Ratchet Wheel - Reply 1880
Chapter 21.8 – Bushing and Nut - Reply 1886
Chapter 21.9 – Pawl Brackt and Lever - Reply 1887
Chapter 21.10 – Spring Pawls - Reply 1890
Chapter 21.11 – Eccentric Strap - Reply 1911

Chapter 22: Grate and Ashpan
Chapter 22.1 – Grate - Reply 1924
Chapter 22.2 – Grate  Supports - Reply 1938
Chapter 22.3 – Ashpan - Reply 1949
Chapter 22.4 – Ashpan Latch and Spring Hanger - Reply 1956
Chapter 22.5 – Pins - Reply 1957
Chapter 22.6 – Spring - Reply 1958

Chapter 23: Boiler
Chapter 23.3 – Formers and Backing Plates - Reply 1986
Chapter 23.4 – Forming - Reply 2011
Chapter 23.5 – Machining and Silver Soldering the Front Tube Sheet - Reply 2031
Chapter 23.6 – Machining and Silver Soldering the Backhead - Reply 2082
Chapter 23.7 – Machining and Silver Soldering the Firebox Sheets - Reply 2161
Chapter 23.8 – Machining and Silver Soldering the throat Sheet - Reply 2183
Chapter 23.9 – Rolling the Shell - Reply 2205
Chapter 23.10 – Silver Soldering the Shell - Reply 2268
Chapter 23.11 – Truing and Facing the Shell - Reply 2302
Chapter 23.12 – Silver Soldering the Bushings and Studs - Reply 2304
Chapter 23.13 – Silver Soldering the Steam Dome Base - Reply 2326
Chapter 23.14 – Bending the Outside Firebox Sheet - Reply 2383
Chapter 23.15 – Silver Soldering the Outside Firebox Sheet
                           Making the parts  - Reply 2405
                           Soldering - Reply 2450
Chapter 23.16 – Firebox Sheet
                           Making the parts  - Reply 2438
                           Shaping - Reply 2455
Chapter 23.17 – Silver Soldering the Tubes - Reply 2494
Chapter 23.18 – Silver Soldering the Tubes - Reply 2516
Chapter 23.19 – Silver Soldering the Foundation Ring - Reply 2540
Chapter 23.20 – Silver Soldering the Throat Sheet Staybolts - Reply 2609
Chapter 23.21 – Silver Soldering the Backhead
                           Blower Pipe - Reply 2507
                           Soldering the Backhead - Reply 2610
Chapter 23.22 – Silver Soldering the Staybolts
                           Stay Bolts - Reply 2427
                           Soldering the Staybolts- Reply 2616
Chapter 23.23 – Silver Soldering the Front Tube Sheet - Reply 2648
Chapter 23.24 – Hydrostatic Testing - Reply 2664

Chapter 24: Fire Door
Chapter 24.1 – Fire Door - Reply 2750
Chapter 24.2 – Door Shield - Reply 2768
Chapter 24.3 – Spacers and Pin - Reply 2770
Chapter 24.4 – Spring Latch - Reply 2774

Chapter 25: Smokebox
Chapter 25.1 – Smokebox - Reply 2778
Chapter 25.2 – Smokebox Door - Reply 2900
Chapter 25.3 – Door Hinges - Reply 2983
Chapter 25.4 – Door Clamps - Reply 2991
Chapter 25.5 – Number Plate - Reply 3007
Chapter 25.6 – Handrail Brackets - Reply 3031
Chapter 25.7 – Handrail - Reply 3066
Chapter 25.8 – Stack - Reply 3085
Chapter 25.9 – Cone - Reply 3119
Chapter 25.10 – Headlight Bracket - Reply 3125
Chapter 25.11 – Smokebox Saddle - Reply 3133
Chapter 25.12 – Bottom Cover - Reply 3161
Chapter 25.13 – Exhaust Nozzle - Reply 3168
Chapter 25.14 – Steam Piping, Blower Pipe, and Union Nut - Reply 3170
Chapter 25.15 – Deadweight - Reply 3183

Chapter 26: Headlights
Chapter 26.1 – Housing - Reply 3199
Chapter 26.2 – Top Covers, Rear Covers, Baseplates, and Glass Holders - Reply 3226
Chapter 26.3 – Reflectors - Reply 3292
Chapter 26.4 – Glasses and Minature Bulbs - Reply 3194

Chapter 27: Boiler Jacket and Handrails
Chapter 27.1 – Boiler Jacket - Reply 3312
Chapter 27.2 – Straps - Reply 3336
Chapter 27.3 – Handrail Brackets - Reply 3346
Chapter 27.4 – Handrailss - Reply 3357

Chapter 28: Throttle and Safety Valves
Chapter 28.1 – Throttle - Reply 3365
Chapter 28.2 – Trunnion - Reply 3385
Chapter 28.3 – Gland Nut and Nut - Reply 3400
Chapter 28.4 – Valve Stem and Fork End - Reply 3404
Chapter 28.5 – Link and Lever - Reply 3411
Chapter 28.6 – Gasket - Reply 3425
Chapter 28.7 – Springs - Reply 3420
Chapter 28.8 – Valve Bodies - Reply 3433
Chapter 28.9 – Valve Plugs, Valve Bonets and Nuts - Reply 3445
Chapter 28.10 – Snifting Valve - Reply 3473

Chapter 29: Steam Dome, Sandbox, and Bell
Chapter 29.1 – Steam Dome - Reply 3506
Chapter 29.2 – Sandbox Saddle, Sandbox and Cap - Reply 3571
Chapter 29.3 – Water Plug and Gasket and Bolts - Reply 3622
Chapter 29.4 – Sandpipes and Screws - Reply 3630
Chapter 29.5 – Bell - Reply 3686
Chapter 29.6 – Bell Stand - Reply 3704
Chapter 29.7 – Tounge, Cap Nut and Lever - Reply 3738

Chapter 30: Manifold and Whistle
Chapter 30.1 – Manifold - Reply 3764
Chapter 30.2 – Manifold Plug and Gasket - Reply 3778
Chapter 30.3 – Whistle Valve Push Pin - Reply 3786
Chapter 30.4 – Cap and O-ring Retainer - Reply 3793
Chapter 30.5 – Spring and Plug - Reply 3800
Chapter 30.6 – Whistle - Reply 3806
Chapter 30.7 – Pressure Gauge Tubing - Reply 3817

Chapter 31: Water Gauge and Valves
Chapter 31.1 – Water Gauge - Reply 3830
Chapter 31.2 – Plug and Nut - Reply 3848
Chapter 31.3 – Glass Tube and Gland Nuts - Reply 3855
Chapter 31.5 – Blower Valve Parts - Reply 3864
Chapter 31.6 – Blowoff Valve Parts - Reply 3885

Chapter 32: Cab
Chapter 32.1 – Cab Roof - Reply 3896
Chapter 32.2 – Ventilator - Reply 3941
Chapter 32.3 – Cab Front - Reply 3947
Chapter 32.4 – Cab Sides - Reply 3989
Chapter 32.5 – Link Brackets and Link - Reply 4016
Chapter 32.6 – Air Reservoir - Reply 4026
Chapter 32.7 – Battery Contactors - Reply 4045

Kim’s Extra Stuff - Conduit Run - Reply 4054
Kim’s Extra Stuff - Switch Bracket - Reply 4066

Chapter 33: Water Piping
Chapter 33.1 – Check Valves - Reply 4092
Chapter 33.2 – Bypass Valve - Reply 4132
Chapter 33.3 – T-Joints - Reply 4136
Chapter 33.4 – Coupling Joints - Reply 4142
Chapter 33.5 – Brackets - Reply 4149
Chapter 33.6 – Suction Ring, Union Nuts, and Nipples - Reply 4155
Chapter 33.7 – Assembly - Reply 4164

Chapter 34: Oil Tubing
Chapter 34.1 – Check Valve - Reply 4213
Chapter 34.2 – Union Nut and Nipples - Reply 4213

Chapter 35: Couplers
Chapter 35.1 – Couplers - Reply 4237
Chapter 35.2 – Pins - Reply 4295


Painting and Assembling the Engine - Reply 4307



Pressure Gauge - From the second apendix in Kozo's "Building the Heisler"

Dead Weight Tester - Reply 4349
Pressure Gauge - Reply 4378




Welcome everyone, to my introductory post for my new build of Kozo’s Pennsy A3 Switcher!

I’m sure this is no surprise to anyone since I’ve been talking about it, asking questions about it, and doing some pretty serious planning on it for well over a year now.  But, this is my formal intro to my build thread.  So, if you’re too disappointed, please feel free to skip on past to the next post.  I promise not to be offended.

As an intro post, here is my obligatory photo of what I’m shooting for.  This is the cover photo from Kozo Hiraoka’s book “The Pennsylvania A3 Switcher”. 


The final engine will be 38” long, 10” high, and 7” wide.  It is a  3.5” gauge, 1:16 scale (3/4” to a foot) model of an 0-4-0 Pennsylvania Switcher Type A3.  The drivers are 3.25” diameter and the cylinder bore is 7/8” with a stroke of 1-1/4".  It will have Walshaerts type valve gear, will be coal-fired with a running pressure of 100psi.  Engine plus tender will weigh-in at about 62 lbs.

So, this will be quite a monster for me!  More than double the size of the steam tractor I did. And a MUCH more serious steam project than I’ve taken on in the past.  But I’m ready and very excited for the challenge!  And isn’t that half the battle right there? (He says with naοve optimism :)).

With that lengthy introduction, let me now introduce you to my BOM spreadsheet.  Kozo’s book is amazingly complete and gives excellent instructions on all his fabrication techniques.  But!  It does not include a bill of materials!  So, what does any self-respecting anal-retentive engineering-type do?  Create a spreadsheet, of course.
Last updated: January of 2024

I’ve attached my spreadsheet to this post.

If anyone is ever interested in doing this build, I would think having the BOM available would be helpful.  I went through the book, entered every piece of stock as specified by Kozo, broken down by section and part number within the section (and often sub-element of a part within a section).  It includes all fasteners, jigs and the sacrificial screws Kozo uses to hold parts together while silver soldering.  That’s the first sheet. It's labeled “A3 Switcher BOM” and has something like 850 unique lines.

The second sheet is the Materials List.  This has one entry for each type & size of material used and summarized the total number of inches (for bar, rod, hex) or square inches (for sheet material) that are needed for ALL parts using that type of material.  it has more than 350 lines, but only 260 something of them ended up being used in my final version of the BOM.

The actual materials listed are based on “My Material”, not on the type originally specified by Kozo.  He did almost everything with 360 Brass.  I substituted a lot of 1018 (CRS) or 12L14, or even Stainless in some places.  But I did leave Kozo’s originally specified material listed on the first sheet.  And someone could move to using that material if they wanted to.

The completion of my BOM spreadsheet took me almost a year of background work, so was no small task in itself.

Late last week I did an inventory of my stock on hand against this Materials List.  Then I entered that into the spreadsheet and it told me how much of what I needed to purchase.  After that, I went through the spreadsheet and did some more substitutions and combining of lines.  For example, if I need 1” of 5/16” brass, I’d look at changing it to 12L14 or if it needed to be brass (because it comes into contact with water) I would just combine it with the 3/8” brass.  I made some fancy columns to help me combine lines.  Not intuitive, but if anyone's interested I'd be happy to explain it.


Last weekend, I spent hours placing a big metal order.  I ended up going mainly with On Line Metals, and with Speedy Metals.  On Line Metals generally had better pricing on 1018, Stainless, and Brass, whereas Speedy Metals had better prices on 12L14 and had a larger selection of sizes of 1018 than On Line Metals. Unfortunately, shipping from Speedy Metals is 2x more than On Line Metals because they are on the far side of the country from me. But I tried to get it all these two larger orders.  Shipping hurt, but it could have been worse!

And yesterday a bunch of my metal started showing up! This was the bulk of the order from On Line Metals.  Speedy Metals won’t arrive till next week.


After opening the containers and comparing to the shipping invoice (all correct, BTW) here’s what I’ve gotten so far.  And this is probably about two-thirds of what I ordered.


In addition, there’s a bunch of fasteners, non-metal parts and various new tools I’ll need for this build.  I also kept a list of tools I needed to order for this build.  That’s also one of the sheets in my spreadsheet.  Here’s what’s arrived from that list so far:


Kozo uses a TON of random sized threads in his build.  He uses 5-40 and 5-44.  He uses 8-32 and 8-36.  I considered standardizing on taps I already had but decided it would be fun to get some new taps anyway.  And I figure he had some reason for using the finer pitched threads, so why not follow his lead, since I’m game for buying another half dozen taps and dies :)

Then one other thing I bought for this build, and am just a little too excited about, is a set of letter & number punches.  I have a very cheap set (cost $10 at a harbor-freight look-alike place) but they are so cheap that they make poor letters. And any of them I’ve used more than once are already getting so flat it's hard to read what gets punched.  This is a set of CH Hansen Letter and Number Punches.  It cost significantly more and had quite good reviews with people saying the punches held up under actual use.  And I’ll say they look much better than my cheapy punches.

Kozo recommends punching identifying numbers & marks into each piece so that you can get it re-assembled back into the same spot it was designed for. I'm going to try and do that too.


So, wish me well on my next multi-year voyage in the world of Steam Model Engineering!

Thanks,
Kim

*Rev B BOM Update*
I've updated the Bill Of Materials now (as of 12-21-22).  This version fixes several mistakes I found where I had the wrong qty of items required or an incorrect dimension or part.  I also fixed some material issues where I'd specified putting 1018 instead of stainless steel in areas touching water/steam.  And I updated a few places where I used different material than what I'd initially specified.

I've only completed up through chapter 22 in Kozo's book and am currently working on the boiler (Chapter 23.)  So only the first half or so of the materials list has been verified.  Regardless, there are undoubtedly many errors still even in the 'verified' half of the BOM, so consult my list at your own risk.

You'll want to make your own determination of materials and what stock to use anyway, so you'll need to review the entire thing.  But please feel free to use this as a starting point if it is of any help to you.

Kim

Rev C of the BOM now includes the Bell Stud for the boiler shell. And I added a change log to the BOM (sheet labeled 'Change Log'.)
« Last Edit: October 06, 2024, 01:25:12 AM by Kim »

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2018, 02:27:37 AM »
This is exciting Kim!!!  I am along for the ride as always!!

Bill

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2018, 02:30:31 AM »
Ooohhh!  Excellent!!!


Great prep work, and nice pile of future swarf. These big projects seem too daunting at first, but one part at a time and its a lot of fun to see come together.


Really looking forward to seeing you go on this one.

Offline Flyboy Jim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2018, 03:21:24 AM »
Kim..........this is going to be another great build thread to watch!  :ThumbsUp:

Jim
Sherline 4400 Lathe
Sherline 5400 Mill
"You can do small things on big machines, but you can do small things on small machines".

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2018, 03:27:08 AM »
 :whoohoo: :popcorn: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :whoohoo:

I don't know whether to laugh or cry.  I've had that book on the shelf right above my desk for over 10 years.

As I age I think of selling it on.

 :cheers:

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2018, 05:25:12 AM »
Thanks guys, it will be great having you along for the build!

:whoohoo: :popcorn: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :whoohoo:

I don't know whether to laugh or cry.  I've had that book on the shelf right above my desk for over 10 years.

As I age I think of selling it on.

 :cheers:

Pete
Pete,
You should start your own Pennsy Switcher now!  We could do parallel builds!  Wouldn't that be fun?
I'd love to see you do that :)  :ThumbsUp:
Kim

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2018, 08:01:04 AM »
Hello Kim,

Well I'm on board too, this should be another great ride.  :popcorn:

Have a great day,
Thomas
Thomas

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2018, 10:21:23 AM »
 8)

I do parts lists for my engine as well but I decided it was best not to write down how much it cost  :paranoia: I prefer to just tick that I have it available 

I also like to mark off the date I complete each part - it shows how quickly the engine came together (or how slowly/how long the build gaps were  :facepalm2: )

Jo
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2018, 12:40:05 PM »
Hello Kim

I must admit that I really haven't really commented much in your excellent tractor build (there has been plenty others, so not much need).

I do make BOM for the products we make at work, but - WOW - what a list and amount of work you have put into this one  :praise2:

I will certainly follow this build too  :cheers:  :popcorn:

Best wishes

Per

Online Dave Otto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2018, 01:59:56 PM »
Very cool Kim, I will be looking forward to following your progress.


Dave

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2018, 02:03:17 PM »
Off to a great start Kim. I'll be riding along on this one also.

Whiskey

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2018, 02:44:34 PM »
Thanks everyone!
Yeah, I'm pretty pumped about this one.   :cartwheel:


I do parts lists for my engine as well but I decided it was best not to write down how much it cost  :paranoia: I prefer to just tick that I have it available 

I also like to mark off the date I complete each part - it shows how quickly the engine came together (or how slowly/how long the build gaps were  :facepalm2: )
It did give me pause; putting the cost of materials in the sheet.  But it also helped me make some material trade-offs.  Some of the columns I've hidden were a comparison between a "Mostly Brass" model and my hodge-podge version. I hid the columns because I stopped keeping it up at some point and I didn't want to spend the time to fix it.  I figure I saved about 35-40% in cost by avoiding gratuitous use of brass :).  Don't get me wrong - there will still be a lot of brass!  But dramatically less than Kozo uses!


Kim

Offline Florian Eberhard

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2018, 06:40:22 PM »
Hey Kim - i am checking in too!  :popcorn: :popcorn: :DrinkPint:

I imagine Kozo used brass because it is easier to machine than steel. Especially with small hobby machines. But there's nothing wrong about using other materials if it makes sense or if it doesn't need to be brass.

Now i guess we have to wait for your first swarf pictures.  ;D

Florian

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2018, 08:26:27 PM »
Thanks Florian!

Yeah, it shouldn't be too long before I start making Pennsy Switcher swarf.  Still a bit more on the steam tractor to finish up, but that's getting every so close!

Thanks,
Kim

Online crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2018, 08:55:03 PM »
Swarf!

Swarf!

Swarf!

And tractor running video too, of course!   :Lol:
 :cheers:

 

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