Bugatti Typ 50 1/4 Scale model

[Roger B]

Magnificent work as we can see by the results   

[michelko]

Hi guys,
thanks for the Kind words.
In october 2016 i assembled the block with al the Pistons, rods etc. I made the studs for the head. These are M4.
At first i planned with m3 but that seamed to weak so i reworked the threads.
Also made an Headgasket from 0,5mm gasketmaterial.

I realized some clearance issues, the Pistons hit the open valves, so i cuted pockets ito the Pistons.

Next step was lapping the valves into theire seats. Used a MK2 collet with a hose clamp as quick and dirty holder.
That worked realy nice.

Also machined the parts for the first set of spark plugs. They are made from Corian as Isolator and a 2mm tig welding rod as electrode.

[michelko]

more pics:

Regards Michael

[Vixen]

Michael
More outstanding workmanship. I realy like this engine and how you have built it.
What diameter are the valve stems? I like your idea of holding and lapping the valves with the valve stem held in a small collet. I have used a small drill chuck in the past but the three contact points would mark the valve stem. Your idea of using a collet will increase the contact area and so should prevent making the stem.

Mike

[michelko]

Hi mike
I made the same experiance with the drill chuck. The collet holds the stem strong enough to comfortable  do the lapping.
The valve stems are 3mm. Made them from etg 100.

Regards Michael

[michelko]

Hi guys,
in january 2017 i worked on the intake manifold. Sorry no pics from the machining,. Thought i made som but canīt find them 
 The intake is made from an Aluminium bar, bored with an deep hole drill from one side and then closed the hole with an Aluminium plug. The boring was done on the lathe because the workroom of the mill is to smal. i mounted the drill into the chuck and the workpiece on the slide.
After that one side was milled under 45 ° and the rest of the boring was done on the mill with an tilting table.

Next step was the oil Screen on the suctionline of the oilpump. turned  a Little Cup as housing and soldered a brass mesh into it. Then solderes the Cup onto the pipe.

[michelko]

Also ordered a big bunch of model screws and worked on the scraping.
Assembled the parts to the block.
Worked on the pulleys for the cooling Ventilator. Used a small 3m wide angle belt.

[michelko]

then it was ready for the first start. Had some issiues with the ignition but i was realy happy with the first bangs

[michelko]

in february 2017 i made the cooling water collector on top of the engine. Itīmade of some brass pipes with different Diameter. Hardsoldered and grinded.
Milled the flanges and made a Little jig to solder them .

[michelko]

Hi guys,
i worked on the exhaust. Here are the pics.
had the flanges lasercut, just to try this out. They came pretty nice and accurate. I was realy supprised  about the tolerances

Made a simple pipe bender for the tubing. I used 10x1mm hydraulic precission tube, milled the collector and silver soldered al part together while they where Held in a jig.

[michelko]

I am not sure about the rest of the pipe Routing. Going 8 in 2 with both 10x1 tubes  or 8 in 2 in 1 with 12x1 tube after connecting the headers?
Has anyone experiances with the different sounds depending on the Setup of the exhaust System?

Michael

[Roger B]

Excellent looking manifolds 

The sound difference will depend on the firing order of the cylinders. If the firing sequence connected to a manifold group is not regular you will get a typical American V8 sound from that group. If the sequence is regular 8-2 or 8-1 should not make a big difference.

[Vixen]

Good-looking exhaust manifolds
They say that copper tube tailpipes will resonate and enhance the sound. I would expect the effect to be greater with two separate tailpipes. An 8 inline engine has a regular exhaust beat so cannot produce the American V8 rumble.
Mike

[MJM460]

Hi michelko,

Beautiful job on the manifolds.

Could you please show us some more of your jig and its material and how it maintained alignment accurately, did not draw all the heat away and avoided being soldered to some part of the manifold?  I would also be interested to see your bending jig, you must have quite a good one to achieve such wonderful results.

MJM460

[michelko]

Hi michelko,

Beautiful job on the manifolds.

Could you please show us some more of your jig and its material and how it maintained alignment accurately, did not draw all the heat away and avoided being soldered to some part of the manifold?  I would also be interested to see your bending jig, you must have quite a good one to achieve such wonderful results.

MJM460

Obviously i can Show you the jigs, but ..
Hmm .... maybee you are expecting a Little to much high tech in this headers.
I machined to rolls, fitted them to an u shape beam an connected them with an handle.
The other allignement was done with some c-clamps.

Same on the soldering jig. Two 45° cut plates welded to a u Beam. Clamped the collector to the beam and the flanged ljust layed on the two plates. Some primitiv measuring and eye balling. Thats it.
This was ok for me because ist not a production run, just two pieces. So i kept it simple.

Michael