Supporting > Additive Machining
3D printer questions
GordonL:
I have been mainly trying the samples which came with the printer. I now have a plastic cat and a plastic elephant. I am building the Howell v-2 engine and there is a delrin cover over the magnets which hold the hall sensors so that looked like a good place to start. The 123 looks like something which will work for "gee whiz that looks neat" but I am having a problem with precision. If I want to make something, not a standard primitive, 1.234" long x 4.567 wide I am having a problem figuring that out. One thing I learned soon is that in spite of us yanks working in inches the software works in mm. The first time I tried to print the part it was 25.4 x actual size. Change 123 back to mm before you save the STL file.
zeeprogrammer:
Re: the perimeter line print and the head to plate distance
That's kind of the purpose for the perimeter line print. Gives the system a chance to start, get the first bits of plastic out (which may have crystalized). And gives you a chance to shut down if it looks like it's going to go wrong.
Yes, distance of head to plate is critical. On my system (possibly not yours), you have to make sure the plate is level and square to the head. Much like milling.
If I recall correctly, on my Slic3r program, there's a setting for layer height. But I believe there's also a setting that modifies the first n layers to be slightly thinner causing the head to 'squish' the plastic down a bit to help in adhering to the plate.
But I could be completely full of ABS.
GordonL:
I did have a problem with the head to table distance and I reset that. When you talk about level, do you mean table level with the head or the whole printer level. It would seem that the whole printer could be a couple of degrees of level as long as the head and the bed are in the same relationship. There is no way to actually level the printer except shimming under the feet and it is actually on rubber feet.
I am finding that actually looking at the gcode helps. A lot of stuff is set in the first 20 lines or so. You can look at the code and modify it with a text editor.
In looking at the cat and the elephant there are a couple of different "bases" to start. There is skirt and raft. Skirt starts the part right on the bed. Raft builds a base before starting the actual part.
Lot of new thing and terms to learn.
zeeprogrammer:
--- Quote from: GordonL on July 20, 2016, 07:54:51 PM ---I did have a problem with the head to table distance and I reset that. When you talk about level, do you mean table level with the head or the whole printer level. It would seem that the whole printer could be a couple of degrees of level as long as the head and the bed are in the same relationship. There is no way to actually level the printer except shimming under the feet and it is actually on rubber feet.
--- End quote ---
Sorry if I wasn't clear. Yes, table level with head. It's the same idea as tramming a mill.
If you move the head to each corner, the distance from head to table must be the same.
For some printers, it's worthwhile to check across the table for bow-ness.
Apologies if I'm telling you what you already know.
Admiral_dk:
Hi Gordon
Google is your friend, so I googled : micro sd card compatibility issues
First hit tells you a lot you need to know :
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-mistakes-avoid-buying-next-microsd-card/
I should point out that there's three main types of Micro SD cards and they are NOT compatible :Mad: - read the article !!!!
Hope this will explain / help you.
Best wishes
Per
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