Boiler water glass sight gauge-to add or not?

[ChipMaker]

I have been running my model steam engines that I have built, on compressed air and I have gotten comments that if they are steam engines, they should be running on steam!  I guess that I would have to agree with that, so I decided that I would build two boilers; one would be horizontal and the other vertical.  I decided this really, when my grandson brought me some copper pipe that was being scrapped from his work, enough to make two boilers.  This copper pipe has a I.D. of 3.0" and a wall thickness of 0.085".  With the boiler ends at 3.0" diameter, this would give me enough room to add a water sight gauge that maybe, I could make from small glass tubing.  I have never worked with glass tubing before, or have made such sight gauge so this could/would be a challenge.  But, a sight gauge would give the boiler(s) a bit of "class" and add to the safety of not running them dry.  My question is then, is it worth the effort?  It could leak, get broken, etc.  I would appreciate your comments on this and thanks for reading.   

[mklotz]

If the challenge of making your own becomes overwhelming, they can be purchased from PMR...

http://www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/boiler-accessories/water-gauge/

Breakage in the typical model boiler setting isn't a huge issue since, in use, the boiler is hot so people tend to not get too close.  I've seen full scale gauges with metal guards for the glass but that might be tough to do in a miniature.

Be aware that in many exhibition venues the use of boilers is forbidden; it's just too much of a safety issue for the show organizers.  Usually compressed air is supplied and you're expected to use that.  If you want to exhibit with your unfired boiler for a more realistic appearance, plumb it such that the air can be supplied to the boiler and then to the engine.

[Bearcar1]

I agree with Marv, most shows will not allow the usage of live steam unless the venue is held outdoors and a waiver has been signed. Personally I would not give a great deal of credence to what others *think*, much less care about what they say in terms of "MY" …. models. Be aware that should you build a set of boilers which I would REALLY enjoy seeing here on MEM as a build thread     that your engines would require a slight timing adjustment to allow for the expansion differences if steam vs. compressed air. ANyway, another source for scale looking water glasses would be Coles Models located in Texas. They used to offer up scale sight glasses featuring the glass guards that Marv mentioned. I do hope to see your future efforts here……..


BC1
Jim

[zeeprogrammer]

I agree with both.
I'd enjoy seeing more boiler builds.

[ChipMaker]

Thanks Marv, Jim and Carl for your quick replies!  I agree, when I displayed my steam engines at the NAMES show here in Michigan, I ran them on compressed air, which was required over steam.  Running on steam, is only for my personal pleasure here at home and with my friends.  I looked at both PM and Coles Web site and I am going to go with the more simple design of sight glass that PM offers for my boiler build. 

Many years ago, I purchased a 36 page book titled, "Steam engine and boiler", "Model engineering for schools", book 1 by T E Haynes, circa 1967.  I recently remembered having this book, so I "dug" it up and started building the engine. The Preface page says in part and I quote, "This book has been written primarily for use by boys of thirteen or fourteen upwards."  This wording, with simple text and dimensions throughout it's few pages, make this truthful!  During my build of the engine, I put the word out that I was in search of a piece of copper tube that might be suitable for the boiler, that is were my grandson came through with a piece of scrap 3.0" diameter copper tube with a 0.085" wall thickness that should work! 

I have a few different hobbies and I try and give them all equal attention, i.e., amateur radio, model R/C airplanes, wood working, etc, plus now, redoing our kitchen!  So, this steam engine/boiler combination will take me a while and I'll do my best to keep you fellas posted right here on this forum, thanks for your encouragement and helping me out on this one! 

I have build many model engines, both steam and gas.  I guess Elmers "Geared Engine", I believe it was #25, was the most challenging of my steam engines, but the "prettiest".

I just took a photo of the boiler work that I have done so far, so lets see if I can attach it here.

Thanks again guys, we'll be in touch!  Karl

[ChipMaker]

I just thought that I would take a quick photo of the cover of the above mentioned book that I am using to build this steam engine/boiler combo.  This will give you a quick look to what I am doing.  Again, it is a very simple engine and boiler build and I am going to try and keep it that way.  I just hope by adding a water sight glass, it doesn't ruin it's simplicity!  Karl

[10KPete]

I like the idea of water gages on boilers, of all sizes. It just isn't a boiler without one! To that end I have been bothered over
the years by the really short glasses that are on small diameter boilers. How long a glass can one actually put on a 3" tube??

So I've decided that the next boiler I build, which I have the 3" tube for, the glass won't be mounted on the end of the tube
with the usual fittings. There will be a bush TDC and BDC but not on the end, rather on the top and bottom. Or the top and
BDC of the end. The top will have a 90* street ell rising up then facing to the normal direction. The glass can then be that
much taller.

Essentially making the glass longer by offsetting the gage fittings higher, and maybe lower on the bottom, so there will be more
to see in the glass. Wish I could put a pic on here to better describe.

Anyway....

Pete

[ChipMaker]

Yes Pete; I don't see why you could not mount you water sight glass just that way; I think it would work just fine.  Marv posted above, a link to the PM Model Engine Web site, where they have a water sight gauge that is just 2-3/8" on centers.  It looked like it will fit the end of my 3" copper boiler tube, so I ordered it along with a additional 6" length of glass tube just incase I have to reposition it or break the glass in the new sight gauge.  I'll let you know how it fits up and send a photo if it all works out well.  Karl

[10KPete]

Cool! It's funny, I also have that glass kit from PH and when I held it up to the tube that's when the idea hit me.

Pete

[mklotz]

You could fake the glass guard by boring out a brass tube to fit over the sight glass and then milling a narrow blind slit in the tube of a length slightly less than the distance between the fittings which hold the glass.

The idea here is that the guard tube can be turned such that, by looking through the slit one can see the water level yet it protects the glass from most accidental blows.

I'm just winging it here.  I think I may have seen as many as two sight glass guards in my life.  Perhaps someone with some real experience can describe a typical implementation.

[K.B.C]

Karl,
You can fit sight glass to a 3" boiler without any trouble, Here is a pic of a 4" Horizontal Scotch return flue boiler with the top sight glass fitting coming from a Banjo fitting on the top of the boiler set at an angle to clear the chimney with an extension to take the top sight glass fitting and the bottom fitting into the end plate.

If you wish I can post drawings from Model Engineer to make your own fittings.

George.

[10KPete]

Karl,
You can fit sight glass to a 3" boiler without any trouble, Here is a pic of a 4" Horizontal Scotch return flue boiler with the top sight glass fitting coming from a Banjo fitting on the top of the boiler set at an angle to clear the chimney with an extension to take the top sight glass fitting and the bottom fitting into the end plate.

If you wish I can post drawings from Model Engineer to make your own fittings.

George.

That's exactly what I was trying to describe!!!

Thanks for the pic, George.

Pete