Parsell & Weed Horizontal IC Engine

[b.lindsey]

Pete, on the horizontal pieces, the threads themselves can make for some adjustment.  For the vertical tubes, the ells will have to end up facing the tower, so I can adjust the height .025" per revolotion based on 3/16-40 threads but since the tubes also thread into the water jacket, I should be able to get even finer adjustment as needed. Once I an happy with it the vertical tubes will be soldered as well as threaded into the water jacket collar.

Bill

[Flyboy Jim]

Thanks Jim, it will be a little tricky getting the height of the vertical tubes coming from the water jacket just the right height so that the horizontal tubes are both level and parallel to each other, but doable I am sure. Also getting the lengths just right as well. But I agree it will look much better than flexible tubing.

Oh by the way, you had asked about solder on another thread as I recall. I used the PMR solder in this application and it worked perfectly.

Bill

Thanks Bill, That is exactly the info I was looking for.

Jim

[10KPete]

I really do like the look of screwed plumbing compared to the usual bent copper tube. It's more work but it looks soooo
much more like "real".  Sittin' on the edge of me seat, Bill!   

Pete

[fumopuc]

Hi Bill, a nice detail with the screwed plumping.

[Don1966]

The plumbing looks great Bill and great solder job buddy. This will differently set it off with the unions and elbows. .......I........like.......

Don

[b.lindsey]

Thanks guys, this was kind of a late thought (obviously) or I would have pre threaded the outlet tubes the first time. Fortunately the change out went well and smoothly. Thanks for looking in. I promise to make some headway on the flywheels this week!!

Bill

[Myrickman]

Nice start on the threaded fittings, Bill. Will really add a realistic touch to the engine. With the tubes being level, you can always tilt the engine nose-down to get out the air bubbles on those long show runs. Paul

[b.lindsey]

Plan B on the flywheels. The lathes at work, need some fine tuning and tightening of gibs, etc. which I haven't had the time to do. So another route. Today I ordered the riser blocks for the lathe head and the tailstock, and the tailstock extender which has been on the want list for a while. This will allow the flywheels to be done here. Part of the decision is that the next project will require them as well. So stay tuned. This weekend I will finish up the piping instead.

Bill

[Dave Otto]

Sounds like a good plan Bill; looking forward to seeing the progress.

Dave

[crueby]

Hope you are also getting the riser for the toolpost? Do they make one now for the compound toolpost too now? Also, what is the tailstock extender you mention?

[Flyboy Jim]

Plan B on the flywheels. The lathes at work, need some fine tuning and tightening of gibs, etc. which I haven't had the time to do. So another route. Today I ordered the riser blocks for the lathe head and the tailstock, and the tailstock extender which has been on the want list for a while. This will allow the flywheels to be done here. Part of the decision is that the next project will require them as well. So stay tuned. This weekend I will finish up the piping instead.

Bill

This is great Bill!  Looking at future projects, I can see that being limited on flywheel size with the Sherline lathe can be an issue and have been wondering how the riser setup would work. Now I can find out. I'll be definitely be watching.

Jim

[b.lindsey]

Chris, a higher tool post comes with the headstock riser. If I want to raise the QCTP, I will need to make a riser for that myself. The tailstock extender is shown here

http://sherline.com/product/1220-tailstock-spindle-extender/


Bill

[crueby]

Chris, a higher tool post comes with the headstock riser. If I want to raise the QCTP, I will need to make a riser for that myself. The tailstock extender is shown here

http://sherline.com/product/1220-tailstock-spindle-extender/


Bill

Ah!  I have a similar one from A2Z or some such.

[b.lindsey]

The piping is now done. Photo 1 shows a close up of the upper union. Photo 2 shows the upper piping complete but not het soldered. Photos 3 & 4 are after everything was done. All the threaded joints were soldered to prevent any leaking. After doing the soldering I did find one small leak on the underside where it went into the water jacket so I resoldered that and tested again and all was good. The only way it will come apart now is to de-couple the unions and take the water tower off the base, but that shouldn't be needed. All in all it looks good I think and as level and parallel as I can get it.

Bill

[Don1966]

Looking good Bill but I want to see a Don finish on all that brass.......

Don