Author Topic: Stuart D10  (Read 9206 times)

Offline bruedney

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Stuart D10
« on: June 15, 2015, 10:04:09 AM »
Purchased a partially completed Stuart D10 a couple of weeks ago.

Stripped it down and bagged it all up to see what I needed to do to it.

Left cylinder had been bored but that was it and the right cylinder had been bored and the steam passages drilled. One of these passages had been done quite off centre and quite poorly so it was out with the JB Weld.

The left cylinder has now had the steam passages milled and drilled

I'm not too happy with the holes for mounting to the stand of the right cylinder either. One has broken through. Any suggestions? Or is it time to buy a new casing?

Another question is that the crankshaft looks like it might be manufactured from one piece and the crank pins are set (machined) at about 120 deg rather than 90 deg.

Does anyone else have a D10 like that? Will there be any problems with an offset like that?

Regards

Bruce

BTW does anyone know if you can link to shared google drive images?
« Last Edit: June 15, 2015, 10:17:46 AM by bruedney »
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline doubletop

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2015, 10:11:46 AM »
Bruce

Some photos would help if you can

120deg won't help as it won't self start at some crank setting. Unless you are going to make it a 3 cylinder expansion engine...

Pete
« Last Edit: June 15, 2015, 10:16:55 AM by doubletop »
?To achieve anything in this game, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster.? - Stirling Moss

Offline bruedney

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2015, 10:14:34 AM »
Trying with the photos but the forum does not like google drive links
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline doubletop

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2015, 10:19:43 AM »
Bruce

Just post a google drive url if you can and we'll see what happens

Pete
?To achieve anything in this game, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster.? - Stirling Moss

Offline bruedney

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2015, 10:22:07 AM »
I did Pete

Just got blue boxes with ? in them

Bruce
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline doubletop

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2015, 10:27:31 AM »
Bruce

Just the url as a plain text string don't try to make it anything else with the buttons

Pete
?To achieve anything in this game, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster.? - Stirling Moss

Offline doubletop

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2015, 10:36:05 AM »
Bruce

That hole doesn't look like it matters much. As you've got DRO's you could make it a 6 hole fixing for the covers with 6 new holes (I don't know the drawings) and as you are chucking the JB weld around you could fill in the old holes. Alternatively John A does a good job with his Mig welder if you get in touch with him

Is the crank glued together with loctite? if so bit of heat and it will come apart and you can re assemble. Use a new bit of silver steel for the main shaft. make it complete and once its all set machine it away between the crank webs

Pete
« Last Edit: June 15, 2015, 10:42:46 AM by doubletop »
?To achieve anything in this game, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster.? - Stirling Moss

Offline bruedney

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2015, 10:51:11 AM »
I am pretty sure the crank is one piece. I can not see any different material on the end of the webs

Thanks for the advise Pete
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline doubletop

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2015, 11:06:27 AM »
Bruce

Wack some heat on it and if if falls apart you can re-assemble, otherwise chuck it in the bin and start again. its only 4 disks, three lengths of silver steel and a drop of high strength loctite.

Pete
?To achieve anything in this game, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster.? - Stirling Moss

Offline K.B.C

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #9 on: June 15, 2015, 05:34:45 PM »
Bruce,

I resently did a build log of a D10 from castings on Modelboatmayhem  (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,49574.0.html) which may be of interest to you and can answer some questions on why the stud hole on the bottom of the cylinder casting broke thro'.

I can also mail to you 3- pieces on A4 size of the D10 drawing which you can tape together if you send me your e-mail address via Personal mail, don't put your address on the open forum.

Can you please tell me what JB Weld is as I am not familiar with it.

George.
Your never too old to learn.

Offline Jo

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #10 on: June 15, 2015, 06:16:15 PM »
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

Offline bruedney

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2015, 08:13:22 PM »
Bruce,

I resently did a build log of a D10 from castings on Modelboatmayhem  (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,49574.0.html) which may be of interest to you and can answer some questions on why the stud hole on the bottom of the cylinder casting broke thro'.

I can also mail to you 3- pieces on A4 size of the D10 drawing which you can tape together if you send me your e-mail address via Personal mail, don't put your address on the open forum.

Can you please tell me what JB Weld is as I am not familiar with it.

George.
Thanks George

I have the original drawings too

As Jo indicated JB Weld is an epoxy glue the is temperature resistant up to about 400 deg F (I think)

Bruce
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline sshire

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2015, 08:41:44 PM »
The D10 is my next engine so I was happy to see that George posted a link to his build log. Is it just me or are his pix not showing on screen?
Best,
Stan

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #13 on: June 15, 2015, 08:48:40 PM »
Probably attachments and you need to be a member to see them, just like here

J

Offline K.B.C

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #14 on: June 15, 2015, 09:15:21 PM »
Joe,
Thanks for the link, I didn't know about this epoxy but will get some and try it on any mistakes that I make, I usually use Chemical Metal  which is a Hermitite product that I get from Halfords.

I am sorry guys but I can't help about not seing my pics on M.B.M. of the D10 build, this Forum is for model boaters but as my interest is Marine steam and I have many friends there and to see the pics you may have to join up which is free of charge.  MODELBOATMAYHEM Google it and you will get the details.

As I am not a trained machinist I use this forum for ideas on how to hold and machine , castings various,and have found the forum extremely helpful and friendly , so thanks to all.

Bruce
If you can get into the pics on page 3&4 you will find that I had the same problem with the holes on the cylinder covers which are 1.125" P.C.D.
I drilled for 5- holes but had to plug them and re-drill 4- holes on  1.062" P.C.D.

Over the years Stuart's have used various foundrys and the general agreement is that the cylinder and other castings are cast using an existing casting rather than making new patterns.
I hope this helps.

George.
Your never too old to learn.

Offline bruedney

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #15 on: June 15, 2015, 10:19:25 PM »
Thanks again George

I have signed up to Model Boat Mayhem but have to wait to be approved

I think I will be plugging and redrilling too. What did you "plug" with?

Regards

Bruce
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline K.B.C

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Re: Stuart D10
« Reply #16 on: June 15, 2015, 11:49:03 PM »
Thanks again George

I have signed up to Model Boat Mayhem but have to wait to be approved

I think I will be plugging and redrilling too. What did you "plug" with?

Regards

Bruce

Bruce,
As the holes were already tapped 7 B.A. I plugged them with 7 B.A. steel screws with a spot of Loctite 603, left them to set overnight and then flushed them off and with changing to 4- bolt fixing on 1.062" p.c.d. it gave me fresh metal to drill and tap into.
Bearing in mind that I also made 2- new cylinder covers with 4- bolt fixing.
I assume that the engine is for your own use, so you could tap the 5- holes out in the cylinder covers to a bigger size and glue in screws and  flush them off , re-drill to 4- bolt fixing for 7B.A.

When you eventualy get into the pics on M.B.M. I also describe with pics my method of making built up crankshafts set at 90 deg.

Hope this helps.

George.
Your never too old to learn.

 

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